Atomizer / Cartomizer for life....

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l3oertjie

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Thanks KY,

In fact, all I used from the original atty was the brass screw fitting and tube, to hold more juice I used a dead 510 battery to make the atty tube longer to hold more juice... So you just need the screw fitting unless you want 25 - 30 drops or so. The standard atty tube will only hold approximately 15 - 20 drops of e - liquid.
It has been 2 months - I will never buy an atty again..... ever.
:nun:
 
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KYFlyer67

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I still cannot find a place to buy just the fiberglass sleeve your using. Has anyone else had any luck? Also, I could not find a small enough copper tube locally.

My metal tubes came from Hobbytown USA. I bought a mixed bag of tubes for about $7 or $8. It included tubes from the size of a hypodermic needle up to about 1/2" diameter in copper, brass, and alum. VERY handy.
 

l3oertjie

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Found this company when searching for "small stainless steel tubing"
Hypodermic Tubing gage Chart | New England Small Tube

Guage 13 or 14 would be perfect.

It's a bugger to try and tin the solder on stainless with standard crystaline soldering fluid - hence my copper coiling workaround method.

I'm sure there must be plenty companies selling this sorta thing out there.

There's about 100 atty's in this coil.....8-o for $10
Bullet Restricto Capillary Tubing BC4 .1250 ODx.064 ID - eBay (item 160485421453 end time Oct-25-10 06:49:47 PDT)
 

WillyB

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Found this company when searching for "small stainless steel tubing"
Hypodermic Tubing gage Chart | New England Small Tube

Guage 13 or 14 would be perfect.

It's a bugger to try and tin the solder on stainless with standard crystaline soldering fluid - hence my copper coiling workaround method.

I'm sure there must be plenty companies selling this sorta thing out there.

There's about 100 atty's in this coil.....8-o for $10
Using brass 1/8" brass tubing will give you the same OD as the copper you linked to with a slightly larger ID, if that matters.

Brass C260 Seamless Round Tubing, 1/8" OD,0.067"ID, 0.029" Wall

Brass C260 Seamless Round Tubing, 1/8" OD,0.097"ID, 0.014" Wall

Amazon.com: Brass C260 Seamless Round Tubing, 1/8" OD,0.097"ID, 0.014" Wall, 36" Length: Industrial & Scientific
 

WillyB

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There's always a risk, and lotsa warnings. Over the counter meds kill about 30,000 people a year. Do you really think NutraSweet is a safe product, have you ever read some of the stuff about Teflon and aluminum?

I guess you could try tinning the brass/copper completely with lead free silver bearing solder.

The point is harm reduction, total elimination ain't happening. You smoked cigarettes I presume.
 

KYFlyer67

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Shaggy63 wrote: "I got a few things of copper tubing from a local hobby shop. Hobbytownusa I guess closed . Anyways, which is better, copper or brass? I didn't buy any type of epoxy, I didn't like the cancer warnings. I'm going to try to figure something else out. Can't wait till tonight so I can work on it."

asdaq wrote: "I'd vote brass over the copper, as brass has less copper in it and leaching would be less. Copper is the softer of the two as well."

I'd like to respond to these 2 posts.

First, asdaq, I completely agree that brass gets the edge over copper for the exact reasons you state. Also, I think stainless steel would be even better, although it's harder to find and harder to work with.

Shaggy63 - I share your concerns about epoxy. Everything I read about CURED epoxy says it's safe, but still I'm concerned about using it in an application where it's inhaled and exposed to high temps. I can think of 2 approaches to eliminate the POSSIBLE risks of epoxy (I say "possible" because I'm not completely convinced there's any risk.):

1 - Build a top-fed version of the design. I posted my approach to a top-fed design earlier in this thread, and it requires no epoxy.

2 - Use epoxy as the design calls for, but place a "plastic insert" on top of it. This one I've not tried - it only exists in my head (scary thought). It's hard to describe this, but I'll try. First you would build the design pretty much exactly as l3oertjie describes at the beginning of the thread. Then you would make a plastic tank that would hold the e-liquid and prevent it from touching the copper/brass/steel and epoxy. The insert would surround the tubes and it would sit on top of the epoxy base. Imagine something like a section of drinking straw that you squeeze around the tubes. Of course the straw would need a bottom so the e-liquid doesn't flow to the epoxy. Also, it can't actually be a drinking straw because the high temp would probably melt it. So what we need here is something similar to a straw, but able to stand up to high temp. If I come up with something I'll let you know, but I'm hoping someone will do the work for me :) :)

Anyway, that's my 2 cents. I've said it before and I'll say it again: the real invention here is the solderless method of attaching the nichrome coil. Almost any atty design could incorporate this method. This method truly gives you an atty that can be rebuilt quickly, easily, and inexpensively. In other words, it gives you an "Atomizer/Cartomizer for life". Another thing I've said before and I'll say again: This method/design is brilliant.
 

KYFlyer67

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One more thing... I just swapped out the coil & wick on my top-fed version of this design, which took all of 5 minutes and cost a penny or 2, and I am surrounded by a luxurious cloud of Johnson Creek Tennessee Cured vapor. Life is good. Thanks again l3oertjie - you're saving me a lot of time and money. I haven't bought an atomizer for quite some time now.
 

l3oertjie

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Ahhhhh........ I can almost smell those clouds of Johnson Creek Tennessee Cured vapor!

KY, thank you for your kind words my good friend, you are correct indeed. This method was really to indicate an easy way to replace the nichrome coil without the need for (in my opinion) difficult soldering.

Also bear in mind that the the epoxy is not really exposed to any heat. The stainless steel syringe needles conduct most of the surface heat away. I'm also working on a top fed system like yours - would love to see pictures KY? Can you perhaps post one or two for us please?

I'm in the process of making a two piece PV. My thoughts are as follows.

One 1/2" stainless steel tube would house the battery, manual switch and coil connectors with the two syringe needles sitting close to the top for easy access. The other tube would hold an air tube to the mouthpiece going straight through the juice chamber (sealed on the bottom with two small feeder tubes) to the coil housing. I'm thinking to introduce a non return air vent (soft spring loaded ball bearing against a small hole) in the juice chamber to allow air into the chamber once you take a drag. The negative pressure in the coil chamber would suck drip liquid and draw air onto the coil and wick and also allow air into the juice chamber. Obviously the top of the juice chamber will have to be a silicon plug or something that can be easily removed to fill the chamber with liquid.

I suspect that PG or VG sometimes looses it's initial flavour due to heated liquid continuously being mixed back with it. With this top feeding design it will not be possible for burnt liquid mixing with your juice in the holding chamber.

Not sure if all of this makes sense in the way I described it - KY would be far better qualified to answer or give us a nice crisp explanation of how it should work. All I know is his post on top feeding design made me think - and I think it is a grand idea! Thanks KY!

I'm doing a CAD drawing on this and will post when I'm finished with it. In the mean time I'm waiting for the Stainless steel tubing and batteries I bought. Going to do this with 10440's and a 1/2" stainless tube with 0.028" walls. Got it from here. Sheakley's Antiques Store items - Get great deals on RODS every type we have items on eBay Stores! Great place for small tubing btw!

This little PV would be approximately 102mm long x 12.7mm in diameter - a size I personally like - feels like a small cigar. Maybe I'll do a paint job on it when it's done... :facepalm:

If I can get everything built into it the way I want to, it will hold approximately 3ml liquid. That's just over 6 fills from your 20ml bottle..... :)
 

asdaq

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Sounds like a promising design indeed, I will stay tuned. If you'd be willing to go up to 5/8" tubing you could use 14500's instead (15.88mm OD) and at that length it'd be a negligible diameter increase with quite a boost in capacities. BTW, you use standard or metric down there? :)
 

l3oertjie

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Sounds like a promising design indeed, I will stay tuned. If you'd be willing to go up to 5/8" tubing you could use 14500's instead (15.88mm OD) and at that length it'd be a negligible diameter increase with quite a boost in capacities. BTW, you use standard or metric down there? :)

Asdaq, metric is standard "down here" lol. Will a 14500 fit into a 5/8 tube though? I suspect you will have to go for a 3/8" OD. Becomes a bit big for just a mouthfull... My drawing is almost done. I'm excited about this idea! KY - HELP PLEASE!
 

asdaq

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Well, I am just a bit north from you, at least the time zone syncs. A 5/8 fits a 14500 with slack, and your ml's could go up or length down.
4937040101_66a2f282ba_z.jpg


Wall is .014" or .355 mm. Still sturdy but light.
 

WillyB

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...

I'm doing a CAD drawing on this and will post when I'm finished with it. In the mean time I'm waiting for the Stainless steel tubing and batteries I bought. Going to do this with 10440's and a 1/2" stainless tube with 0.028" walls. Got it from here. Sheakley's Antiques Store items - Get great deals on RODS every type we have items on eBay Stores! Great place for small tubing btw!

This little PV would be approximately 102mm long x 12.7mm in diameter - a size I personally like - feels like a small cigar. Maybe I'll do a paint job on it when it's done... :facepalm:

If I can get everything built into it the way I want to, it will hold approximately 3ml liquid. That's just over 6 fills from your 20ml bottle..... :)
You really want to avoid the 10440's. They are a very poor choice for our uses and 300 actual mAh is a waste of time, plus 14500's can be bought for about the same price (although far from ideal they are a much better choice than the 10440's).

The max discharge rate on the 10440's is extremely poor, even asking them to provide 1A (that's 2 times their max discharge spec) is over stressing them.


Also bear in mind that the the epoxy is not really exposed to any heat.
Do note though that e-liquid will in fact break the bond of epoxy over time.
 
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