Atomizer / Cartomizer for life....

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l3oertjie

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WillyB, those were invaluable comments. Thank you very much. It really helps when people contribute to an emerging idea. One tends to look at the basics and sometimes forget the details or vice versa.... Asdaq may have a good there with the 14500's. Thanks mate! I will have to reconsider the battery size. :unsure:

I guess my cigar will just have to become a Texas sized Cuban now....

Anyways, this is what I'm working on:

l3PV.jpg
 

WillyB

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Nice pics. I'm not a fan of what looks like a typical tact switch. Even with a mosfet they aren't really made for the large amount of activations we subject them to. Asdaq has some nice mechanical switches he's built in his mods, that should be quite durable.

I'm thinking to introduce a non return air vent (soft spring loaded ball bearing against a small hole) in the juice chamber to allow air into the chamber once you take a drag.

Here's a design, by Scuba Dan I believe, that has some similarities and addresses return air in a different manner.
 

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KYFlyer67

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Asdaq, metric is standard "down here" lol. Will a 14500 fit into a 5/8 tube though? I suspect you will have to go for a 3/8" OD. Becomes a bit big for just a mouthfull... My drawing is almost done. I'm excited about this idea! KY - HELP PLEASE!

My pictures and description for a top-fed design can be found in post #102. This post describes a top-fed design with a flat disc-shaped wick (silica strands wrapped around a C-shaped wire. I've been testing this and it's only a partial success. It works GREAT... for about 2 days, then wimps out. I think the problem is it's just too much wick and too much juice around the coil. Once it bakes for a couple days, it loses steam - literally. I think this is a big reason why most cartomizers don't last very long.

So I'm trying something a little different now. I'm using the top-fed approach described in #102, but I've ditched the disc-shaped wick. I'm now using a 510 ceramic cup, with the lead wire holes reamed out bigger. The ceramic cup slides over the 2 tubes (or hypo needles). Use a coil, wick, bridge, and nickel mesh just like in a 510. Basically it's just like a standard 510 except the lead wires are replaced with hypo needles, using sewing needle pieces to secure the coil. I'll let you know how it stands the test of time.
 

Scubabatdan

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Here's a design, by Scuba Dan I believe, that has some similarities and addresses return air in a different manner.

Yep my design and it still works :) would like to make the insert with built in channels so that are no tubes. But still going strong!

Here is a better design, the air hole is in the side, and it holds 10ml of liquid, and uses a 16340 battery with quick change coil.
Dan
 

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roadrash

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I have been pondering this for weeks now. seems like no matter how good a attie or carto perform at first, there is a steady decline in performance after that. i just received a E2v3 or 4 carto from BB. (thanks again) The first hit was awesome good throat hit taste and vapor. Then it went downhill from there. I have tried washing them in different solutions with some improvements, but no where near as close as new. dry burning, does just that and burns the gunk off, but also leaves a burnt under flavor lingering. i have used both vg and pg juice. If you think about it, we are using a coil system that was never meant to be covered with a juicy substance. A car cigarette lighter that stuck to the tobacco and stunk every time you used it until it burned off. A toaster with a piece of toast stuck inside, burning every time till it burns off. even using a coil to heat water the coil is covered and protected. we cant use this system to vape, because it takes to long to heat up.
Some light vaporers may not have much of a problem with this, But as I vape 12 mil a day the mounting gunk ed up atties and cartos are getting way to expensive.
Making my own would help with expenses, But it still would degrade during the day.
So my question to you all, Is are we stuck with the traditional coil until someone has a break through for a heating device that does not degrade over time?
Any thoughts?
 

l3oertjie

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I have been pondering this for weeks now.
So my question to you all, Is are we stuck with the traditional coil until someone has a break through for a heating device that does not degrade over time?
Any thoughts?

Ok, consider this.

You can buy a 75ft 36awg spool for about $8 incl shipping. Resistance heating wire, Nichrome, 36 awg, 75ft - eBay (item 170440761709 end time Oct-29-10 22:26:51 PDT)
Not sure about the wick material you prefer but I can buy 6mm silica rope with 6 strands of 300ft for about $12.

Now if I do the maths, you can make 457 coils with the nichrome (allowing 2" per coil - I added some for wastage). You can make 11520 wicks from the rope (again allowing 2" per wick).

So, a complete new coil and wick will cost you 1.75cents + 0.1cents = 1.85 cents. Lets assume you waste a LOT... That's 2 cents per coil & wick.

I'm quite happy to spend that ten times a day if necessary....

Mine stays fresh for three days or so. I don't even bother trying to clean them anymore. Just pull it out and replace.
 

roadrash

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Ok, consider this.

You can buy a 75ft 36awg spool for about $8 incl shipping. Resistance heating wire, Nichrome, 36 awg, 75ft - eBay (item 170440761709 end time Oct-29-10 22:26:51 PDT)
Not sure about the wick material you prefer but I can buy 6mm silica rope with 6 strands of 300ft for about $12.
Now if I do the maths, you can make 457 coils with the nichrome (allowing 2" per coil - I added some for wastage). You can make 11520 wicks from the rope (again allowing 2" per wick).

So, a complete new coil and wick will cost you 1.75cents + 0.1cents = 1.85 cents. Lets assume you waste a LOT... That's 2 cents per coil & wick.

I'm quite happy to spend that ten times a day if necessary....

Mine stays fresh for three days or so. I don't even bother trying to clean them anymore. Just pull it out and replace.

Thanks 13, after playing around with other options without any luck. I may have to bite the bullet and start making coils.
Definitely cheap enough and once you have a quick change method. Just change em.
Thanks for the link. :>)
 

KYFlyer67

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Just a heads up - I found the 36awg way thin..... Although for the price you could open up a foam cutting business! :)

36awg is all I've used. Yeah it's about as thick as a human hair. Are there any advantages to using thicker (lower awg) nichrome? Maybe it would last longer before burning out, but as l3oertjie mentioned, with this design you may as well change the coil every couple days or so.
 

KYFlyer67

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WillyB, those were invaluable comments. Thank you very much. It really helps when people contribute to an emerging idea. One tends to look at the basics and sometimes forget the details or vice versa.... Asdaq may have a good there with the 14500's. Thanks mate! I will have to reconsider the battery size. :unsure:

I guess my cigar will just have to become a Texas sized Cuban now....

Anyways, this is what I'm working on:

l3PV.jpg

I agree with everyone that you should ditch the 10440 in favor of the 14500. I like to keep my ecigs as small as possible, but the 10440 sucks *ss. This is a very interesting design. The big question here is "will the juice flow as intended"? If it does, this will be a very cool build. Only one way to prove it of course... You gotta build it Boertjie! And report back to us of course.
 

Bubo

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36awg is all I've used. Yeah it's about as thick as a human hair. Are there any advantages to using thicker (lower awg) nichrome? Maybe it would last longer before burning out, but as l3oertjie mentioned, with this design you may as well change the coil every couple days or so.

I've got 32, 34 and 36 now - just haven't had time to mess withthem... The 36 resistance was so high, I think I could only make one or two loops to get 3 Ohms... Hopefully I will have time this weekend....
 

SurvivorMcGyver

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Ok, consider this.

You can buy a 75ft 36awg spool for about $8 incl shipping. Resistance heating wire, Nichrome, 36 awg, 75ft - eBay (item 170440761709 end time Oct-29-10 22:26:51 PDT)

Not sure about the wick material you prefer but I can buy 6mm silica rope with 6 strands of 300ft for about $12.

Now if I do the maths, you can make 457 coils with the nichrome (allowing 2" per coil - I added some for wastage). You can make 11520 wicks from the rope (again allowing 2" per wick).

So, a complete new coil and wick will cost you 1.75cents + 0.1cents = 1.85 cents. Lets assume you waste a LOT... That's 2 cents per coil & wick.

I'm quite happy to spend that ten times a day if necessary....

Mine stays fresh for three days or so. I don't even bother trying to clean them anymore. Just pull it out and replace.



Sorry to pop in unannouced :p

Been following this thread religeously and am VERY appreciative to ALL it's contibutors.

Just wondering what your source is for the 6mm rope you listed. My source is flaky at best. It has been mentioed seveal time in this forum - but to be honest.... 8 Weeks to get 2 feet of rope? - egads. Huge company - great product - but.....

Any help would be appreciated.

Keep on keepin' on :p
 

Scubabatdan

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I've got 32, 34 and 36 now - just haven't had time to mess withthem... The 36 resistance was so high, I think I could only make one or two loops to get 3 Ohms... Hopefully I will have time this weekend....

I typically stay with 34ga, I can use 1.5" and get 2.3ohms perfectly just about everytime. I also use a straight pin and about .5-1mm of fire wick material. I generally average 8-10 loops for 2.3 ohms and I have found the smaller dia wraps seem to perform better IMHO. I have just gotten my hands on 100ft of nichrome 80 34ga wire and have yet to test it. Will post how it performs when I do.
Dan
 
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KYFlyer67

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I typically stay with 34ga, I can use 1.5" and get 2.3ohms perfectly just about everytime. I also use a straight pin and about .5-1mm of fire wick material. I generally average 8-10 loops for 2.3 ohms and I have found the smaller dia wraps seem to perform better IMHO. I have just gotten my hands on 100ft of nichrome 80 34ga wire and have yet to test it. Will post how it performs when I do.
Dan

When you say "fire wick", are we talkin silica?
 

asdaq

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l3oertjie, I'm liking the design, but how is the threading going to work? If using a threaded ring insert (?), there is room in the middle section/ coil compartment, but nowhere else really. The top could be a carto style rubber stopper and do it's job, but the bottom probably wouldn't allow threading and getting the battery through. Perhaps a press fit plug with a conductive charging port like Scottbee did?

Dsc00801.jpg


And when the battery does need to be removed the switch could be removed (?) and let the battery pass.

Just some thoughts, nothing sorted :)
 

Bubo

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Perhaps a press fit plug with a conductive charging port like Scottbee did?
asdaq, could you post a link to the thread where Scottbee is doing the pressfitting threads?
I'm trying to figure out how to get threads in a thin brass tube (okay, yes - the Brass Beast!) That and to make smaller Suckatons, and SAMs...
 

asdaq

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Bubo, that is the bottom of an ego battery, and has a hole drilled in it for the port. No threads, sorry. However, when it comes to the ego cone, it is a 2 piece construction with a threaded ring press fit into the SS cone. I've no idea about how to get those, plus they cost space. Taps and dies are another story, but how thin are you talking about?
 
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