Atomizer Heat Sink?

[a2dcovert]

Has anyone tried to find a transistor (round) heat sink to help keep the atty cool? I've been looking but haven't found one that shows the exact ID of the circle to know if it would fit. It might look a little wierd and I probably wouldn't use it in public. I would like to try it to see if it would help.

Kevin

 

[mnealtx]

You mean the barrel of the atomizer, and not the atomizer coil itself, right?

 

[raven9mm]

Has anyone tried to find a transistor (round) heat sink to help keep the atty cool? I've been looking but haven't found one that shows the exact ID of the circle to know if it would fit. It might look a little wierd and I probably wouldn't use it in public. I would like to try it to see if it would help.

Kevin

what would you want to cool the atty faster for?

 

[a2dcovert]

what would you want to cool the atty faster for?

Well, since I can no longer get 36mg juice I find that I vape a lot more often. The 510 atty will get very hot if you push it too far. I want one of those barrel type transistor heat sinks to go on the outside of the atty. This should allow the atty to cool down faster. I was wondering if anyone had tried that yet and what specs or part numbers were.

Kevin

 

[raven9mm]

If you would want this to keep the atty cool, as to prolong the life of it, unscrew the batt a little, so that it loses connection, but not apart, then take a drag. the cool air moving over the atty coil will cool much faster than an external heatsink. then screw back in and vape as normal.

If you are doing it because it gets hot to the touch, then stop touching it.

 

[forcedfuel50]

I suspect that a heat sink will decrease the effectiveness of the atomizer. It is not just the heating element itself that needs to get warm, it is the "heating chamber" for lack of a better word. Any heat sink will only conduct heat away from the warming of the incoming air charge, thus reducing some of its effectiveness and in the end, you'll find yourself just having to push the button longer to achieve the same vapor production and hence, one could argue, reduced element life.

 

[a2dcovert]

Has anyone tried to find a transistor (round) heat sink to help keep the atty cool?

It's a simple question.

Kevin

 

[a2dcovert]

I suspect that a heat sink will decrease the effectiveness of the atomizer. It is not just the heating element itself that needs to get warm, it is the "heating chamber" for lack of a better word. Any heat sink will only conduct heat away from the warming of the incoming air charge, thus reducing some of its effectiveness and in the end, you'll find yourself just having to push the button longer to achieve the same vapor production and hence, one could argue, reduced element life.

Actually I have noticed the vapor production drop when the atomizer assembly gets too hot. This is one of the issues I want to address with this mod. Since I am using the nicostick mod I don't feel the heat while holding the cig. I simply notice a fall off in vapor.

In my revision of the nicostick the atomizer is not inside the box. It is fully exposed and I am simply entertaining the idea of a heat sink to help keep it a little cooler.

Kevin

 

[crazyhorse]

I think it's a very good idea for prolonging atomizer life but I have no idea what a transistor heat sink is.

My atomizers for a single 14500 NicoStick have been a lot happier since I de-recessed the connector. Heat gain is not a good thing for them.

 

[a2dcovert]

I think it's a very good idea for prolonging atomizer life but I have no idea what a transistor heat sink is.

My atomizers for a single 14500 NicoStick have been a lot happier since I de-recessed the connector. Heat gain is not a good thing for them.

A lot of the rf or audio amplifier transistors are round like some of the can type capacitors. They make finned heat sinks that fit snugly around these round components. They have to fit tightly so the heat transfer will work well. I think this mod is worth trying. The 510 atomizers do get very hot. I'm going to try to find one that will fit.

I can't imagine how hot the 510 atomizer would get if it were enclosed in the box.

Kevin

 

[crazyhorse]

Hmmm, I have some huge old 70's vintage Kenwood and Marantz transistor power amps stored in one of my barns. I think I'll check them out for donor parts. An atomizer with a finned heat sink would look wild on a copper pipe mod but I can see the value. The quicker an atomizer can cool, the longer it will live.

 

[forcedfuel50]

That hasn't been my experience, the hotter it gets for me, the more vapor, however, it does start to get a burnt taste.

My intuition still leads me to my first post. A heat sink would take heat away from the heating chamber and heating element as it will transfer heat away not only after the heating process, but during it as well, thus one having to hold the button down longer to get the same desired vapor production (translation, you will have to make a longer draw) and secondly, reduced battery life. There is no free energy in this process. Heat from the element transfers to the air surrounding it and to the body and if you add a heat sink, it will then transfer to it, thus running your atomizer heating element cooler, which means you will have to run it longer to produce the same vapor. Think of a heat sink as a minature intercooler.

What you would be achieving with a heat sink is to not only cool the body, but to also lower the operating temperature of the heating element and heating "chamber", which could be done much easier by simply lowering the voltage, but as we know, to low of voltage lowers the vapor output.

As far as a heat sink, i'd also argue that it "may" reduce atomizer life, not increase it. The metallurgical properties of heating elements and most metals and ceramics, do not take well to an extremely rapid cool down. It can produce stress fractures and cracking. A gradual cool down is preferred for long life. That being said though, i don't necessarily think a heat sink would cool it down so quick as to cause that effect, so it may be a moot point. Its not like you are taking it when it is hot and dipping it in ice water.

 

[mnealtx]

A ferrite core might work.

You must REALLY be roasting out that atomizer - I usually take 4-5 drags in fairly close succession (30 second intervals or so), but my atomizer is back to being cool to the touch a minute or two later, even with a 'buried' install.

 

[a2dcovert]

I don't want this to get bigger than it is. I don't have an out of control heat issue. I'm just looking for a mod idea that might help me and others. The 510 has only 2 problems that I know of. One is the short battery life, fixed with the nicostick, the other is the hot atomizer issue. All of which is due to the high performance of the 510.

The hot atomizer issue is normally controlled by just putting it down and giving it a chance cool off. This also effects the draw because it allows the capulary action to catch up and recharge the business end of the cart.

Kevin

 

[crazyhorse]

I don't agree with your assessment forcedfuel. Atomizer heat is a very localized and instantaneous thing. Drawing heat away from the atomizer body won't affect that. Excessive heat buildup within the atomizer body can only be detrimental to the already marginal solder joints.

I don't see any performance increase achieved through increase in ambient atomizer temperature. Northern vapers will be better equipped to address this question. Does an atomizer provide vapor without significant preheating when used outside in very low temperatures?

Edit: I'm speaking only in reference to an 801 and their lousy solder joints.

 

[a2dcovert]

That hasn't been my experience, the hotter it gets for me, the more vapor, however, it does start to get a burnt taste.

My intuition still leads me to my first post. A heat sink would take heat away from the heating chamber and heating element as it will transfer heat away not only after the heating process, but during it as well, thus one having to hold the button down longer to get the same desired vapor production (translation, you will have to make a longer draw) and secondly, reduced battery life. There is no free energy in this process. Heat from the element transfers to the air surrounding it and to the body and if you add a heat sink, it will then transfer to it, thus running your atomizer heating element cooler, which means you will have to run it longer to produce the same vapor. Think of a heat sink as a minature intercooler.

What you would be achieving with a heat sink is to not only cool the body, but to also lower the operating temperature of the heating element and heating "chamber", which could be done much easier by simply lowering the voltage, but as we know, to low of voltage lowers the vapor output.

As far as a heat sink, i'd also argue that it "may" reduce atomizer life, not increase it. The metallurgical properties of heating elements and most metals and ceramics, do not take well to an extremely rapid cool down. It can produce stress fractures and cracking. A gradual cool down is preferred for long life. That being said though, i don't necessarily think a heat sink would cool it down so quick as to cause that effect, so it may be a moot point. Its not like you are taking it when it is hot and dipping it in ice water.

I really doubt that a simple heat sink will be able to provide a rapid cool down. It's not like the heat sink would be mechanically connected to the atomizer heating element. The outer shell of the atomizer is picking up radiant heat from the coil. The cartridge is also picking up heat and the capulary action is probably adversly reacting to this heat. But I can't really make that claim as I am not sure. I do know that since I have been using 3.7v from a 900ma power source I have been melting the carts more than usual. I really have to pay close attention to inserting the carts so as to keep the cart lip away from the coil of the atty.

Kevin

 

[joedirt]

You do NOT want a heat sink. For one reason, you are wasting a lot of battery. You essentially are heating up the atty and then taking some of that heat away. Let's say you did find a way to put a heat sink on there and it worked really well... You are probably cutting battery life in half. Also, now your metal tube is getting hot (heat has to go somewhere).

What you want is to control the duty cycle and turn the atty on and off when you get to the right temp.

The trouble is I haven't seen any good information about what the ideal situation is.
How hot does the atty get? (degF per second no sucking, degF per second with sucking)
How fast does the atty cool when turned off (in an air stream)?
What is the ideal vaporizing temp?

So we want to pulse the battery to the atty at like 100 Hz with a controlable duty cycle.

Essentially it is a mass air flow sensor in reverse.

Also the current drops as this thing heats up because the resistance increases the hotter the nichrome gets. If you measure the current increase you can estimate a temp. For instance if you sucked really hard, the wire would get colder and the resistance decreases so more current is used.

The other solution is to control the max current you send the atty. So you could use a DC-DC converter which benefits allowing a huge range of DC voltage inputs. (You would give up about 10% battery life to the converter)

I haven't read enough, but does anyone know the ideal voltage input for the atty? I'm assuming it doesn't matter as it is just a resistor, so higher voltage is more currentm but again, that is going to be limited by your type of batteries.

 

[Lazarus]

I don't want this to get bigger than it is. I don't have an out of control heat issue. I'm just looking for a mod idea that might help me and others. The 510 has only 2 problems that I know of. One is the short battery life, fixed with the nicostick, the other is the hot atomizer issue. All of which is due to the high performance of the 510.

The hot atomizer issue is normally controlled by just putting it down and giving it a chance cool off. This also effects the draw because it allows the capulary action to catch up and recharge the business end of the cart.

Kevin

These might be what you are looking for:

Might look a little funky, but probably will cool off the atty quicker.

 

[warp1900]

I think there is confusion about the original question.
I have the exact same problem as a2dcovert. I vape non stop and my atty gets so hot you can not get anywhere near it.
I believe that the only way to dissipate heat faster form the atomizer tube is what you already mentioned, but it would have to be an external add-on, so that would look funky, (I don't mind), but the question is...Would it really make a big enough difference?

I think the answer is no, since you will keep puffing on it, and even a foot long heat sink would not be able to do the job fast enough.

EDIT: Just look at how big the heat sinks in computers are today and even with big fans, they still run pretty hot, even when a computer chip is not always running at the max capacity.

I sometimes put my atomizer close to the vents from the ac and it takes quite a bit to cool off (3 minutes). That is way too long to wait for me lol.

I have a much simpler solution for chain vapers like you and me a2dcovert.

Alternate 2 different e-cigs!

 

[Elapid]

You also might want to use some of the paste they put between a computer processor and the heat sink to get better transfer of heat to the cooling fins. I think the heat that is used by the atomizer is only the heat that gets generated on the mesh to produce vapor. Using a mod like this will only remove heat from the outside of the atomizer and could very easily prolong its life. Let us know how this develops. Colling fins on the E-cig would look wicked, it would operate and look real "cool" on a Prodigy, screwdriver, or other larger power supply. I'm all for anything that will make our equipment last longer.

Again JMHO, Elapid---<