Thank GOD I am simply upgrading from a Vamo. I am too inexperienced to realize that the clone sucks! I actually like mine and it does all that I need and most important to me is the battery lasts all day at work and that is what I wanted.
Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!
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Thank GOD I am simply upgrading from a Vamo. I am too inexperienced to realize that the clone sucks! I actually like mine and it does all that I need and most important to me is the battery lasts all day at work and that is what I wanted.
Alright, so with my clone, I want to go lower, I was thinking trying to use a .3 ohm coil at 30 watts. What is the lowest you've taken yours without issue? Which brings me to my next question, I also want to pick up a Bcmods with that sx350 chipset and go low aswell. .3 ohm dual coil build with perhaps a 1/8th inch dual airholes in my nimbus clone.
kinda wondering if I am going at this too fast. I don't even use my mech that I bought, yet I want to go low. Debating which route I take, invest in a Bcmodz sx350 chip and a 3500 mAh battery with a low build, or go mech. I am satisfied with my Hana clone, but I want MORE vapor.
I'm noticing a lot of negative posts on the clone This isn't my opinion I think you have to realize it only cost 70 bucks
If you paid for an Authentic I would expect perfection but for 70 bucks a little less than perfect is good enough for Me
So far I'm quite happy with mine
If you paid for an Authentic I would expect perfection but for 70 bucks a little less than perfect is good enough for Me
So far I'm quite happy with mine
The vapour comes from you topper try a Fogger V4 on your clone or an rda it will make a good cloud
Gonna drill airholes tomorrow on my RDA to 1/8th of an inch, I just want bigger and badder stuff haha.
On both of my Clouper units the green charged light comes on when using USB ports with .5A, 1A, 1.3A, 2.1A outputs and both USB 2 and USB 3 from computers.
I am totally happy with the two Cana's that I bought. And I am a pretty good judge of what works and what doesn't. Off by a 10th of an ohm, off by a 10 of a volt, turn it up or down, that's what the buttons are for.
I gave my 2nd one to my wife, guaranteed it will be run hard and abused. Mine is in more of a rotation so it isn't being used as much as hers. It is early yet so time will tell just how well these hold up.
Vaping a Cana at 0.3Ω, I don't think much of the idea, get a mechanical for the super low stuff.
I gave my 2nd one to my wife, guaranteed it will be run hard and abused. Mine is in more of a rotation so it isn't being used as much as hers. It is early yet so time will tell just how well these hold up.
Vaping a Cana at 0.3Ω, I don't think much of the idea, get a mechanical for the super low stuff.
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A mechanical is still going to be safer and output more power for sub-ohm builds than a SX350 or DNA20 devices!
Rip Tripper did not recommend it based on having to press a button twice!!!!~???? So please elaborate!
That is quite some statement to make in face of the thousands of these that have been released.
It was obviously one of the Chinese trading companies, don't remember the name. He had a lot of Cigreen devices on his counter.
You might want to try an RDA with adjustable airflow. I drilled out a bunch of my RDAs just getting into drippers, but for some coil builds it's too much, rendering some of my top caps kind of useless. Right now, I'm very happy with my Stillare clone, and I have a Magma on the way. I'm guessing Magma will be slightly better because I tend to stick to single coils. The Stillare is machined strictly for dual coil airflow, so i went kind of ghetto and put a piece of clear tape over the unused one.
Definitely. The quality is actually quite good. The posts DO use the allen key, which I didn't originally want, but the posts are beefier then the screw model and the posts have holes (obviously) for the wires. So it was a very easy build. Should have picked up a couple more!
Has anyone here succeeded in using magnets for the rear battery door instead of the screws? If so, how did you do it? A tutorial/pictorial would be nice.
The Hana clone doesn't suck. I'm sorry if that's what you got from my post. I, personally, am not "impressed" with it. That's not to say that it's "bad" or "sucks"...just that it doesn't impress me. I build mods and I even have about 10 of these clone chips in my drawer. I will use them for the people that don't mind the performance difference, but I was expecting a bit better performance from them.
I was expecting slightly better performance from the chip as it would save me money on supplies and in turn save the people that I build for a little bit of money. I will continue to swear by SX350 chips and to a slightly lesser extent the Evolv DNA30D...
I like the Cana as a beater for work, but the buck stops there...
Look at it like this...it outperforms my Sigelei 20W and costs less...it's still a good value.
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I can tell you how the metal door uses magnets on my Reo, who's base material is aluminum. I'm sure you're familiar with the thin disc magnets, used in many a mechanical mod switch. The Reo simply has a machined hole for the magnet in the body and another that's just a thin shiver of a magnet in the door at the corresponding location. One top and one bottom on its door, but it has a channel milled into the body to help hold the door in place requiring sliding the door off and on. In your case with just a slab fit, I'd expect 2 each top and bottom, with the magnets in the body being long enough you'd describe the magnets as cylinder instead of disc would be needed to keep the door in place.
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It depends on where you're drawing our line at for sub-Ω builds. For a .3Ω, yes, you will have more power in a mech than with either the DNA30 or the (current) SX350. To say that a mech is safer is just wrong. There are NO safety features in a mech except for (sometimes) a collapsible spring. These boards have safety features which will prevent a catastrophic breakdown from a short or if you exceed amperage overhead.
If you're talking a .6Ω build (still well within the sub-Ω category), you couldn't be more wrong about the power.
Even with a FULLY charged battery on a mech with 0 voltage drop under load (which isn't possible) you're only vaping at 29.4W. The DNA30 will get you the full 30W, and a (current) SX350 will get you to 35W. And with these chips you will get that power for the life of the battery, not however long your battery is at full charge (which isn't very long).
There is an upgrade in the works from YiHi for the SX350 which will bring it to 40W very soon, and eventually 50W. You can get that from a mech with .3Ω, but only with a mech that will put out above 4v under load.
Agreed...but a mech is still the best option for sub ohm as the Amp output limit on current regulated (widely available) mods is 12.5A.
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