Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!
- Thread starter Fathomrock
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
The original ones had a glitch in them, but I think that was corrected. I know mine is spot on. My smok ohm reader is reading .6ohm on my magma, and the Chana reads .6 ohm also. Then again, mine is red which are the ones just released. The ones with the glitch also had the Hana logo on the display when they started up as well as the Hana Modz written on the stickers on the inside. Mine just goes straight to the standard dna screen and the warranty stickers have nothing on them at all.w
Yep.... mine was not a preorder.... ordered week ago Sunday...arrived Thursday of same week.... .. off by .3..no idea which run mine came from since it was not a pre-order...just depends on luck-of the-draw maybe....
Sounds like a match for mine too which is red. It has been dead on also. I've also discovered that need to hit the button a second time to bring it out of sleep mode depends on how much pressure I hit the button with. Tap it and I need to hit a second time to vape, hit it firmly and it fires right away.
On another note on the Ohm reading it appears to round down to the nearest 10th. In other words a .57 ohm will show as a .5 ohm but actually matches the amount needed for the .57 ohm to get the same voltage required.
Last edited:
Yep.... but since Hana has facebook of Vapor tek as evidence in the filing I would think they already have a copy of elev8 video also.....kinda playing out I think that they are pretty thorough and definitely serious to protect their rights...but I really have no clue....
Hana can't sue as of yet because their trademark logo wasn't approved as of yet.
...Bunch of folks talking about Hana clones, related news, and Hana mods.
Seems about right for this thread.
Last edited:
After listening to Retird's advice, I started really looking over my dead silver clone's 510 connector. I happened to notice something, that to me appears a bit odd, possibly faulty. The center pin seems to be lacking the rubber gromit that most mods have. I then started thinking that over tightening an addy may result in a direct short. I determined this just from inspection. I did not disect the thing yet, but fully intend to. After seeing what I think is amiss, I started looking at my other mods. Both my ProVaris and both my mechs (sentinal m16 and origen) most definately have a rubber seal of some type around the center pin at the 510 connector. My green cana (still working, no flaws) also appears to be lacking the rubber seal, so I am definately going to be careful with it going forward. In case anyone doesn't know what I am referring to, I have a silver mod from WV and a green from 101. The green is working bear flawlessly, the silver died. I had removed the battery from the silver and let it stand over night. The next morning I put in a fully charged battery. As soon as I put my topper on it began to fire, on its own (no buttons pushed) so I pulled the topper and removed the battery. I then installed a different battery and put the topper back on. Then it immediately just says check atomizer. Everything else seems to work just fine.
It just makes me wonder if this occured because of the no rubber gasket. Really at this point I'm just speculating, I don't even know if the no rubber gasket is a real issue or not, but seems it likely could be.
It just makes me wonder if this occured because of the no rubber gasket. Really at this point I'm just speculating, I don't even know if the no rubber gasket is a real issue or not, but seems it likely could be.
I'm hoping an experienced modder can walk us through replacing the press-fitted 510 adapter.
Did you put a meter from the threaded portion of the 510 to the center pin on the 510? If it reads a short, you have a problem very possibly with the 510 (hopefully, that would be relatively easy to replace.)
None have a rubber gasket, although just by eye I see some material used as a separator. Of course there would have to be. Agree it's not the best design with the unnecessary width of the center contact.
Last edited:
The 510 shouldn't be difficult to replace. Remove old one and surrounding glue. De-solder old one. Solder in the new one, epoxy in place. Providing no resizing needs done with the box itself. With that said I myself might do this eventually. Although I've always been mindful of not over tightening....
Got a black one from wetvapes and the LED won't turn green. I charged it on a nitecore then put the battery in the mod and charged using a cable for about an hour.
Won't charge past 4.18v. Is that normal?
Won't charge past 4.18v. Is that normal?
Same "no Green" here with my silver one from WVs and mine will not charge above 4.17v. Several others have posted about this issue recently in this thread.
The LED is so faint as it is. I'll probably be charging in the nitecore anyway.
I noticed two things about the 510 connector when looking/testing... the width of the center pin and I could just barely see the black silicone spacer under the top of the pin....normal 510's have the silicone spacer easily seen and protrudes noticibly around the pin....so tightening the topper down may allow the outer edge of the pin to short to the connector metal housing(threaded part at the base).
- Status
