Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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Fir3b1rd

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Based on the mini it appears the FT clones use a different chip and board than the Cloupor clones do. The Cloupor clones look like 1:1 clones of the Evolv chips, but the FT clones are visibly different.

So you're saying the clouper looks like a dna. Does it behave the same?
I'm focusing on the board because that's the part of a dna device that I want; not the rest, I'm not even a fan of box mods; but, ill make the sacrifice for a more affordable 30 watt device, so long as it's not a 33.3hz chip. I had like of those and used it for a day before i got rid of it.


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tuney

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So you're saying the clouper looks like a DNA. Does it behave the same?
I'm focusing on the board because that's the part of a DNA device that I want; not the rest, I'm not even a fan of box mods; but, ill make the sacrifice for a more affordable 30 watt device, so long as it's not a 33.3hz chip. I had like of those and used it for a day before i got rid of it.
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just because of safety concerns spend the extra $22 for the evolv chip(cna30=$27/dna30=$49).
i.e.; i have a cana (cna30) that fires a 0.24 build.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Just one source there are a lot of others
DNA30D By Evolv

Oh; that's just for the board though; I don't have the tools necessary to build the mod from scratch; if I thought I would reuse the tools I would go that route; I've already looked into it. It's just not cost - effective to do that for a one-off.


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Completely Average

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Oh; that's just for the board though; I don't have the tools necessary to build the mod from scratch; if I thought I would reuse the tools I would go that route; I've already looked into it. It's just not cost - effective to do that for a one-off.

Other than a soldering iron and a small knife what tools would you need to convert a Cloupor clone to a real DNA30 chip?
 

Fir3b1rd

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Other than a soldering iron and a small knife what tools would you need to convert a Cloupor clone to a real DNA30 chip?

Ok I was confused when the person said it would be 22 dollars more. It would be the cost of the DNA chip; plus the soldering supplies more.
So now you're 70+50=120
So it would be 120 plus soldering supplies
Is there another DNA-mod in that general price range. I'm not looking to spend a lot otherwise I would have already gotten one. I'm also looking got be as practical about this as I can.


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Completely Average

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Ok I was confused when the person said it would be 22 dollars more. It would be the cost of the DNA chip; plus the soldering supplies more.
So now you're 70+50=120
So it would be 120 plus soldering supplies
Is there another DNA-mod in that general price range. I'm not looking to spend a lot otherwise I would have already gotten one. I'm also looking got be as practical about this as I can.


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For a real DNA30 device, plan on spending a minimum of $150 unless you build it yourself.
 

Fir3b1rd

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You do know there is a difference between the DNA30 and the DNA30D, right?

I wouldn't recommend buying a DNA30D for a Cloupor. You'll have a lot of trouble trying to get the dial working for adjusting the wattage. The 30D is made for mods with a dial to make changes rather than two buttons so it only has 3 holes for the dial wires instead of 4 holes for 2 buttons with 2 wires each.

Thank you anything else someone who has 0 exposure to the high wattage or building my own mod should know.


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Fir3b1rd

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For a real DNA30 device, plan on spending a minimum of $150 unless you build it yourself.

That was my point; if I'm gonna drop 120 and possibly still have power cables and ground wires in there that can't handle the load; or, a charging port that may be less than acceptable. I'd rather spend the extra 30 bucks and make sure it's all to spec.

I haven't looked into the high wattage stuff at all yet. In fact, I just got my first mech yesterday. While I'm all about cost effectiveness; I'm also all about longevity and not having to replace pieces and parts over time too. Which is why i spent little more than my comfort level on my regulated mod. Noe I'm exploring the possibility of playing with more power. Yes I want to keep the cost down; but, not to the point that I'm gonna get aggravated with it and be ...... for spending the money, if that makes sense. It's not like throwing a 20 bucks on a clone mech that you don't like.
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Fir3b1rd

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So basicaly, you want high quality device for a bargain price. Good luck in your search :) Or you could invest in quality parts and have someone else who has necessary skills and tools to build it for you.

Haha ok I stepped in the wrong thread apparently.
I'm a 37 year old former body mechanic who just graduated with a degree in electrical engineering.
I have the skills and ability. I was competing I'm robotics competitions the last two years that I was in school.
I've also been out of work for the last three years; because when I got hit by the truck that put me in the wheelchair I was unable to continue working as a body mechanic; hence, the education.

The disability check doesn't exactly give me the money to go out and drop a ton of money on mods every month. So, before I spend the same amount upgrading a clone I want to make sure hay doing so makes the most sense from the long term financial aspect.
A ground that may not be able to Handle the load will kill the 50 dollar board. Then I'm left with a 120 dollar paperweight or I'm spending another 50 bucks; because I've voided a warranty zone I'm spending 170 when I could have spent the 150.

I guess I just don't think right...
Sweet Baby Jesus forgive me for asking questions before I spend money.... I forgot ECF was NOT the place to go to learn about vaping; it's, only for those who know everything.


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bsumpter

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I received my Cloupor DNA30 clone today, and I have it sitting here beside the FastTech DNA20 clone. I'm going to send the FT back, and am awaiting an RMA from FT before it hits the mail. But while they're both in front of me, a few observations concerning the differences between the two...

1) Machining is ever so slightly better on the FT model. No swirl marks at all in the drip well or button depressions. The Cloupor is not bad at all, but there are some swirl marks in the drip well and fire button depression. Anodization is also slightly better on the FT model, with some slight color variations visible on the Cloupor clone. Not bad, but visible.

2) Buttons are MUCH better on the Cloupor clone than the FT. The FT buttons don't protrude as far outside the case as the Cloupor buttons. The Cloupor buttons are also "clickier" and easier to push. I had to use my thumbnail or point of my finger to even push the FT fire button. It got looser over time, but was still embedded a little too far inside the case.

3) The Cloupor version is a couple of millimeters taller than the FT version. Could be due to the top piece not having the split.

4) Tanks sit more flush on the Cloupor version than they did on the FT version. Both were perfectly straight.

5) Corners are more pronounced on the FT version. The Cloupor version has more of a curve on the corners.

6) The Cloupor clone still has the wide pin in the 510 connector. It is even wider than the FT version, and I thought it was bad.

7) The screen on the Cloupor version "blinks" a bit when going through the dimming process. The FT chip seemed more consistent when it was dimming.

8) Wiring is neater on the FT clone. The Cloupor clone has the plastic window (which I've not removed yet), but I can see a wad of wires inside the Cloupor that wasn't there on the FT.

9) The FT was always high by .01 or .02 on ohms. The Cloupor is actually matching my Vamo perfectly.

10) I could see the red and green light on the FT clone through the USB cutout. There was some space there that the light was able to get through. I cannot see the light at all on my Cloupor. I *think* I see a red glow through the screen, but will need to get in a darker area to be sure.

11) Finally, the timeout is longer on the Cloupor clone. The FT sleeps at approximately 40 seconds, and the Cloupor sleeps after 2 minutes.

Overall, I'm happy with the Cloupor so far. I have to do something about this pin soon, though. I may try to pull it out and see if I can file it down. If that fails, I'll order a FatDaddy 510 and just be done with it.
 

CurlyxCracker

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So you're saying the clouper looks like a DNA. Does it behave the same?
I'm focusing on the board because that's the part of a DNA device that I want; not the rest, I'm not even a fan of box mods; but, ill make the sacrifice for a more affordable 30 watt device, so long as it's not a 33.3hz chip. I had like of those and used it for a day before i got rid of it.


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I personally would just get the Coupor. Order from someone with the updated 510 like Elev8vape. I've had mine running wonderful for 3 1/2 weeks now. No problems
 

herb

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I had a lot of back and forth discussion via email with someone from Cloupor last night. I am not going to post verbatim responses in the forum as I don't believe that is ethical. Just my own personal beliefs.

They first emailed me and wanted links to the website where the pictures of the fixed 510 connectors were posted which I provided. Then they wrote back and said they were aware of the problems and had made changes based on customer feedback. They said this was a first production run for them and we were testers the same as Innokin and other companies have done. (Their words)

I explained that a lot of people had bought these near cost and were not complaining as they planned on replacing Cloupor's crappy parts with good parts. I also explained that not everyone bought them at that price and some paid more. I explained that we were all mislead as this was promoted as a "1 to 1 clone of the Hana Modz DNA 30 mod". I told them it was a clone in looks only and not in quality or function.

Bottom line we were once again testers for a Chinese company. I for one should have known better. Lesson learned. I won't be making this mistake again.

Take my words for what they are worth. Just my own opinion, nothing more nothing less.




Sounds like it definitely pays to wait lol.
 
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