New Vapor Shark coming out will be an 18650 model.....have not seen pictures yet....
Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!
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New Vapor Shark coming out will be an 18650 model.....have not seen pictures yet....
I have only heard a handful of clone owners saying that they read accurately , i am not concerned with that part of them since i don't sub ohm but others might be if they only have the clone to take readings.
Too expensive for my blood , very nice piece otherwise . I am upbeat about the real DNA boards since you confirmed their reliability, sounds like a very worthy upgrade on these.
I hope someone makes a tutorial with pics .
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My clone has been working well for a just shy of a month. After watching that video I had to open my clone and check the 510 connector. I found exactly what he stated in the video except worse! The bottom of my 510 was filled inside and out with hot glue. After digging out the hot glue I found my center pin moves up and out the top. I was able to inspect the delrin? washer, check the solder connection clean it up and slide it back in. It now sits a little tiny bit higher.
I also re-soldered both battery wire connections and cleaned/secured the ground wire very well.
I am not impressed with the wire gauge, solder connections or the excess hot glue. I hope this 510 "cleanup" reduces my changes against some future failure.
This could be it...
hum.... don't know.... saw those mod protectors somewhere recently....thinkin' it was a pbusardo video where he said the protectors will be coming out for the VS...he had a blue one.... and your pic shows a taller device with the red protector... maybe a glimse of things to come...
Accessories is one area (especially smart phone and I Pod stuff ) thats ridiculously overpriced.
From what I've read, the wrong ohm readings on the clone are pretty much a given - just Google 'Hana clone ohm reading' and you'll find plenty of hits.
It may not be a good idea to sub ohm on these clones but it's what folks are buying them for - it's their major selling point.
There is no regulation when they sub ohm with the clones. They would be better off with a mech mod than these clones for sub ohming.
Please thank your friend there in Ireland for taking the time to put together the video, the data sheets, and for expressing his views and conclusions. Far more substance to his video than a normal "fan boy" or "advertisement" or "vendor produced" video.... It seemed to me he was expecting a different outcome to his evaluation but ended up rethinking his earlier thoughts after evaluating his own test results... at least that's my take on the video....
Come back in a year and ask then. Otherwise you're just wasting your time, because there will not be proof of reliability or a lack of reliability until months go by.
Besides, it's pretty clear you're far more interested in an MVP. It seems to do everything you want and makes you happy, so why bother with these clones in the first place? You seem FAR more interested in finding something wrong with them than you do owning one.
The reading on mine isn't far off. About 0.04ohms lower than what my multimeter reads it at. Sometimes that's enough to make the clone read 0.1ohm below what it is, sometimes it doesn't.
But it could definitely be better. I suspect the problem is with the solder and choice of 510 connector, and it's getting extra resistance there.
0.6ohms and above should be fine. Below that they lack the wattage output of a mech mod.
That depends on how you define subohming. 0.9ohms is subohming, but running a 0.9ohm coil on a mech mod is only going to give you 19.6 watts on a fresh battery. These clones could not only give you more power, they can regulate and maintain that higher power where your mech will drop off from that initial 4.2v charge.
You have to go below a 0.6ohm coil before a mech mod delivers more wattage than these clones.
.5ohm or lower though, definitely get a mech mod.
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Drop test. My daughter,dog,and I went out for a bike ride and my mod flew out of my pocket and went sliding down the blacktop.
Everything is fine with it besides the scuff marks. Everything is still working the same.
I've been shock testing it 6 days a week 9 hours a day at work for around 3 weeks now. It's a super jarring ride sliding off stumps and such.
Everything is fine with it besides the scuff marks. Everything is still working the same.
I've been shock testing it 6 days a week 9 hours a day at work for around 3 weeks now. It's a super jarring ride sliding off stumps and such.
You know that and so do I - doesn't change the fact that the selling point was the fact it would fire at .3 ohms.
I think that's pretty much it - after some use he found that it didn't perform quite as well as he expected.
I think that if you're prepared to do some tinkering and a bit of soldering then these clones are still a bargain - I have to admit my first thought was to replace the board with a real one.
If you already have the clone then you can replace every single part except the battery holder, using a real Evolv DNA30 chip for less than $80. Buttons, 510 connector, USB charging chip, Evolv DNA30, wires, and silver solder for less than $80. If you know what you're doing and willing to spend the extra time to trim, route, and secure the wires and use a plastic DIM rail to hold the PCB you could rebuild the clone using only about 6 drops of epoxy, none of which would be on the chips or solder connections.
Got me all anxious, then silence! Haha waiting to see what the big deal is!
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