Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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jluc

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USB3.0 compatible wall wart?

I have no idea. We have a couple in the kitchen and a couple in the bedroom that came with various cell phones and tablets. I think I have used them all. I'm looking at one now, an Asus with a bunch of tiny writing on it. I would have to go buy a magnifying glass to read it.

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Completely Average

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So yes, for all practical purposes, it's a passthrough.

It absolutely is NOT passthrough.

I'm not sure you understand what passthrough charging is. If it was a true passthrough then you would be vaping off the USB current at the same time the battery charges. The current passes through the charger and on to the device.

That is not what happens in these clones. The USB port charges the battery. Period. No current from the USB port is passed beyond the battery. When you vape you are vaping exclusively from battery power, there is no passthrough charge from the USB port.

If you attempt to vape from the USB current you will burn up the chipset and ruin your mod.
 

jluc

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I was also thinking of getting the BCmodz with the SX350.... Decisions decisions.... Also with my first Cloupor device, Ive experienced ZERO problems. Its vaping like a dream.

I just got a BCMODZ sx350 yesterday. It's very well made. Kinda big to be a carry around device.
e8emydeb.jpg


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dwcraig1

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Even if the usb wall charger was only 100mah as long as the voltage was right it would fully charge the Cana , it would just take longer. So no matter what the amperage input is only up to 500mah comes out of the internal charging board. Voltage though is a different matter and probably varies a little from wart to wart.
 

Steamer861

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Mine don't show no green or red light I tried both wall charger and PC no light but charges it takes about 3 hours to charge a VTC4
also the display comes on from time to time all by it's self If I set the watts at the same thing on both the clone and the Authentic it seams like the Authentic hits a bit harder After 5 days thats all I found it works pretty good so far
 

garpt01

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Any vendors there selling the ZNA or the Clone?

Hi retird,
Clone, yes. ZNA, no. (At least I didn't see it- big event and I made sure to check out all the "higher end" vendors.)

I picked up a 3D dripper clone ($25) and a Magma dripper clone ($10.00). Plus lots of free juice.
 

retird

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Hi retird,
Clone, yes. ZNA, no. (At least I didn't see it- big event and I made sure to check out all the "higher end" vendors.)

I picked up a 3D dripper clone ($25) and a Magma dripper clone ($10.00). Plus lots of free juice.
Don't nic overload on all the free juice...LOL
 

garpt01

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Most likely they held stock aside specifically for the expo.

Doesn't add up for me, anyway. We are talking a half dozen (at least) vendors with real Hanas, and a few pieces of each color back up stock (that I could see.) Hana has changed their strategy of "exclusivity"- and purposely limiting inventory- until the "attack of the clones", IMO. I wonder if and how many other vendors have the capability to do this as well instead of holding back production and inventory to inflate the perceived value of their products.
 

Iceclouds

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... At the Miami Beach World Vapor Expo today. Missed Phil Busardo, he was there all day yesterday. Matt from "Deadliest Catch" TV show was there. Used to be a 4-5 pack a day smoker, now vapes and goes around as a vaping "ambassador" of sorts! Great event, GREAT prices (Mostly) on gear, events and fun!

On topic, I thought "real" Hana's were made in small numbers and had a waiting list of 3-4 month. There were at least SIX vendors at this show with original Hanas in all colors. Maybe knowing the clones were going to flood the market, they decided to counter by doing the same? IMO, kind of cheapens the brand even further, especially holding and inspecting them. They are SO close to the originals except for the small telltale details. I find it interesting...

there were many vendors with original Hanas and also some with clones.... is a shame that HANA plays this game... keep buyers waiting for product on pre-orders when apparently they have plenty of units to fill those orders...... Terrible business practice from them....... Even if I could afford it Would not buy a unit from them. IMO they are a Nasty Company!!!
 
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retird

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Mine don't show no green or red light I tried both wall charger and PC no light but charges it takes about 3 hours to charge a VTC4
also the display comes on from time to time all by it's self If I set the watts at the same thing on both the clone and the Authentic it seams like the Authentic hits a bit harder After 5 days thats all I found it works pretty good so far

I did a few tests this afternoon.... USB 2 and USB 3 had no bearing on whether the light turned green or red... mine stays red and dims by about 1/2 at full charge. I had previously drilled a hole beside the usb port on the clone so the led was very easy to see.

And on the perfoirmance I did the following:

Put together a new carto tank with 3.0 ohm carto. Checked the ohm's of the carto with a ohm checker and meter and both read 3.0 ohms.

Plugged in 8.5 watts @ 3.0 ohm's into my Ohm's Law calculator and receive the voltage answer of 5.04975 volts.

Set my real DNA wattage to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery. Set the Clone to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery.

Screwed the tank onto the real DNA and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 3.0 Voltage reading 5.1v (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed the same tank on the Clone and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 2.7 Voltage reading 4.7v (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed an in-line voltage meter onto the real DNA and screwed the tank into it. Fired with same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 5.1v. The dna display read 5.1v. (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed the in-line voltage meter onto the Clone and screwed the tank into it. Fired with the same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 4.6v. The dna display read 4.7v. (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator @ 8.5 watts )
 
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wetwire

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Hi Wet,

How easy do you think it would to replace the 510? I ain't a moder expert but can solder a bit, kinda. The FDV 510s look the business but given the postage to UK not practical. I did see this on euro vendors site. Do you think this could be fitted to the Cana? Its full ss and adjustable 510
Tough to say what the skill level is. I have seen a FT version modded with the smaller FDV 510 by a guy name Wylie over on FTs forum. He said it was a little rough, but did indicate it was his method and could be done easier. No idea on the one pictured. More importantly I have no real basis, outside previous problems, to think this 510 will fail. I just have a bad habit of being overly prepared for future problems. Not an awesome trait, just how I am. Just take care and hopefully it will last. I am overly hard on everything I use.
 

Steamer861

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Is the light beside the usb? or in the screan

I did a few tests this afternoon.... USB 2 and USB 3 had no bearing on whether the light turned green or red... mine stays red and dims by about 1/2 at full charge. I had previously drilled a hole beside the usb port on the clone so the led was very easy to see.

And on the perfoirmance I did the following:

Put together a new carto tank with 3.0 ohm carto. Checked the ohm's of the carto with a ohm checker and meter and both read 3.0 ohms.

Plugged in 8.5 watts @ 3.0 ohm's into my Ohm's Law calculator and receive the voltage answer of 5.04975 volts.

Set my real DNA wattage to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery. Set the Clone to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery.

Screwed the tank onto the real DNA and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 3.0 Voltage reading 5.1v (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed the same tank on the Clone and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 2.7 Voltage reading 4.7v (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed an in-line voltage meter onto the real DNA and screwed the tank into it. Fired with same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 5.1v. The dna display read 5.1v. (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed the in-line voltage meter onto the Clone and screwed the tank into it. Fired with the same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 4.6v. The dna display read 4.7v. (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator @ 4.7v )
 

dwcraig1

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Woot for free juice! Have a FT 3D that should be here any day. Can't wait to try it. Fiddly or not I like the concept.

Just hold the protruding 510 center post on the bottom with pliers or something when you go to tighten the screw on the positive coil legs otherwise it may spin. My FT 3D clone works great. It's coiled a little low right now for my Cana.
10455236_807312939292932_7917658986599625053_n.jpg
I enlarged the air holes for big cloud capabilities.
 
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retird

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Is the light beside the usb? or in the screan

The leds is built into the charging board. They are very small and lay flat on the board. The usb port connector sets higher on the board and to the right of the led's. Drilling the hole on the left side of the usb port and just a tad higher than the port clears the led's just fine. At least that's the way mine was....
 
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