Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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Destro

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Be really careful with that 510 recessed connection, there have been people in here that have already fried their boards because of the 510 threading contacting the 510 firing pin on the Hana and creating a major short.


Yea was hoping i didn't have to mess with the cana 510 - already contacted the seller. Just wanted to see if anyone else had this issue


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ClintS

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Haven't had time to look through to see if anyone posted this but saw it on vaporjoes. 101vapes has some cna30's from cloupor actually in stock all colors except black lmao!!!

anaH modz DNA 30 Clone no logos - 101 Vape

Will they did, now sold out. I had an email from them first thing this morning, then another at 6:04 pm PDT saying a waitlist was available. That seems to be gone as well.
 

wetwire

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These are the 20 watt ones are they not?
Yes. They have yet to list the 30s. Trying to get as many of those lipos sold as they can first. That is FT for you. They will likely be out soon, but if they go with the same supplier I would not touch them. I knew better than to order before seeing owners photos/ reviews but you know.. Could not help it. :) I suspect the 30/18650 will slowly eeekk out real soon. Probably black first ;)
 

ClintS

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Is this any different than the Cana Modz? I've been looking for the greater part of the day and this is the only place with blue in stock. I'm so close to hitting the buy button lol.

Edit: ....! Someone just got the last blue :(
Edit 2: Damn you 30 other ppl in this thread. I know one of y'all got my blue lol.

Their clone is from Clouper, same as the Cana Modz.
 
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ClintS

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Yea was hoping i didn't have to mess with the cana 510 - already contacted the seller. Just wanted to see if anyone else had this issue
I think the intent was to pull the pin on the atomizer until it was flush with or extended from the 510 connecter threads, not messing with the Cana.
 

dwcraig1

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Yes. They have yet to list the 30s. Trying to get as many of those lipos sold as they can first. That is FT for you. They will likely be out soon, but if they go with the same supplier I would not touch them. I knew better than to order before seeing owners photos/ reviews but you know.. Could not help it. :) I suspect the 30/18650 will slowly eeekk out real soon. Probably black first ;)
I can't figure why they would put in two 600 mah li-po's, just put in the 18650 holder and ship (other than Malasia Post). Regular e-packets I recieve in 5 - 7 days from FT from acceptance.
I understand using the two batts together by why even include them.
 

Fullknight

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I think the intent was to pull the pin on the atomizer until it was flush with or extended from the 510 connecter threads, not messing with the Cana.

Yes the reason to make sure the atomizer positive pin is longer than the negative outside 510 threads. The positive connection on the Cana is a large diameter and can cause a short.


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garpt01

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Ok guys I am going to quote from he label on the charger (sorry not too electrically talented) Model ETA-P10X IMPUT 100-240V 50/60HZ
.035A OUTPUT 5V--2A.....Let me know if that helps, if you have a way of enlarging the picture (especially those using a cell phone/tablet or touch screen) you can pinch and enlarge my picture and you can read all the specs. Let me know if I can help in any way...Side note notice how thick the charge wire that I am using, it is a very thick gauge (don't know if that makes a difference)

That's a relatively high current output for a wall wart (at 2 amps.) Joecii also used a 2A plus charger and fleetingly saw the green light. The internal charger is 500ma input I believe. I have chargers at that high a current but I would have to modify one for a micro USB output connector. Interesting possibility- For those that have experimented, does the higher current rating charger source appear to make any difference?
-GT
 

ClintS

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That's a relatively high current output for a wall wart (at 2 amps.) Joecii also used a 2A plus charger and fleetingly saw the green light. The internal charger is 500ma input I believe. I have chargers at that high a current but I would have to modify one for a micro USB output connector. Interesting possibility- For those that have experimented, does the higher current rating charger source appear to make any difference?
-GT

Nope

On both of my Clouper units the green charged light comes on when using USB ports with .5A, 1A, 1.3A, 2.1A outputs and both USB 2 and USB 3 from computers.

If one would go back and read the post you would see where I was doubtful about the green light as on both of my units there is simply no glow (red or green) that comes from the USB port. I opened the case but the red plastic is too strong to see any green light through it. So I waited till the unit was more then likely charged, turn off all of the lights in the room, and then looked from the top down and tilted the unit while looking at the LCD screen area, at the very bottom of the screen opening I could see a green glow.
 

LiveL0NGandVAP0R

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when you say fiddle..do you mean loosening the negative post? I was able to push out the entire pin further if I unscrew the post a bit, but when I do that the entire post spins. Do you use yours with the pin all the way tightened? thanks dude.

I'm guessing you mean the positive post, right? I have an origen v2 clone by infinite. Maybe it's similar to yours. The positive post can be adjusted making the 510 connection protude farther down and still be tightened up so it doesn't spin. I could only get it to stick out a hair past the 510 threads without blocking the wire hole in the post though. Take off the top knurled screw that would hold the wire. The remaining bottom knurled section also screws which holds the post tight. You can unscrew the 510 connection which is also the positive post and when you have it where you want it (taking note of the wire hole if you want to use it) then tighten the bottom knurled section while holding the post from the 510 connection with a screw driver. Or something like that, lol. Maybe someone else with an origen v2 can explain it better.
 

herb

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Yes. They have yet to list the 30s. Trying to get as many of those lipos sold as they can first. That is FT for you. They will likely be out soon, but if they go with the same supplier I would not touch them. I knew better than to order before seeing owners photos/ reviews but you know.. Could not help it. :) I suspect the 30/18650 will slowly eeekk out real soon. Probably black first ;)



The majority of the comments i read on FT's site regarding the DNA clones is very positive , definitely no worse than any other clone thread i have been following .

The issues that i hear are nearly identical to the issues i read about with other DNA clones , the main difference is one seller isn't gouging you and is offering them at a much better price along with a much longer warranty .

Seems like a win win unless someone can tell me or prove that other DNA clones are superior thus worth paying considerably more.
 

PONKAW

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I can't figure why they would put in two 600 mah li-po's, just put in the 18650 holder and ship (other than Malasia Post). Regular e-packets I recieve in 5 - 7 days from FT from acceptance.
I understand using the two batts together by why even include them.

The duel 600s are in the mini...look at the size specs. I ordered one (mini 30 watt) over 12 days ago when they first posted and haven't heard a peep since. I'm sure it will show up some day but with my experiance with FT it's a pure mystery. Never order something for slowtek unless your willing to just forget about it for a while...

Oh... and the mini 30's don't appear to use the split case like the others.
 
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LiveL0NGandVAP0R

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Nope



If one would go back and read the post you would see where I was doubtful about the green light as on both of my units there is simply no glow (red or green) that comes from the USB port. I opened the case but the red plastic is too strong to see any green light through it. So I waited till the unit was more then likely charged, turn off all of the lights in the room, and then looked from the top down and tilted the unit while looking at the LCD screen area, at the very bottom of the screen opening I could see a green glow.

I can barely see red from USB port and can't see green at all but I can see the green light from the screen at the right angle in the right lighting conditions. I haven't been using the USB charger at all other than testing to see if I had a green light or not as I've just been changing the batteries and charging them on the xtar vp1. I tested an efest 35amp and a Sony vtc4 by taking them off the vp1 fully charged and both of them instantly had a green light on the Cana. Took a pull and light went red then went green again not long after and I set them in the vp1 and they both read 4.19. Not that it should matter but I used an iPhone's 1A wall charger with the cana's USB cord for the test
 

MrBeo

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I have a FT Clone and I think its every bit as good as the Cloupor other then its a DNA 20 with a 1 Ohm limit. I had to add Epoxy to both units the same to better support the Fire button and USB port However for the money they are equal - you pay more for the Cloupor but get more Functions and less for the FT if you don't always need the added lower Ohms limit and power! HAPPY HAPPY with both :)

The majority of the comments i read on FT's site regarding the DNA clones is very positive , definitely no worse than any other clone thread i have been following .

The issues that i hear are nearly identical to the issues i read about with other DNA clones , the main difference is one seller isn't gouging you and is offering them at a much better price along with a much longer warranty .

Seems like a win win unless someone can tell me or prove that other DNA clones are superior thus worth paying considerably more.
 

ClintS

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It depends on where you're drawing our line at for sub-Ω builds. For a .3Ω, yes, you will have more power in a mech than with either the DNA30 or the (current) SX350. To say that a mech is safer is just wrong. There are NO safety features in a mech except for (sometimes) a collapsible spring. These boards have safety features which will prevent a catastrophic breakdown from a short or if you exceed amperage overhead.

If you're talking a .6Ω build (still well within the sub-Ω category), you couldn't be more wrong about the power.

Even with a FULLY charged battery on a mech with 0 voltage drop under load (which isn't possible) you're only vaping at 29.4W. The DNA30 will get you the full 30W, and a (current) SX350 will get you to 35W. And with these chips you will get that power for the life of the battery, not however long your battery is at full charge (which isn't very long). ...

All in all I think I'm just looking at this differently than you while I agree that theoretically what you stated is correct, however - the other point of view and actual measurements.

First and foremost safe use depends on the user and the equipment being used, while personal safety is an utmost concern, safety of the tools being used is another concern.

From all reports and Clouper, if you put a battery in backwards the CNA 30 chip is gone, not so with a mech. Safety of the equipment.

New, unproven electronic fail safes might be safe, but I don't carry that attitude until the electronics are proven - I've seen too many electronic fail safes - Fail. These CNA 30 electronics are not proven and already seem that might have an issue with the shorting of the 510 connector. Mechs don't have this issue and there is no doubt what they offer - the user!

If a battery vents:
(1) in a mech you might have an opportunity to dump the battery from the tube, probably not so on the CNA 30. Once the high temp feature has been tested and proven - this should become another matter.
(2) the best way to stop a runaway Li-ion is too cool it down. Cooling the mech and battery will be much quicker, easier, and less complicated; the CNAs might even make trying to cool the outside of the case even worse by increasing steam and gasses from the contents inside the case (which may very will be dangerous in their own right).
(3) you can more than likely remove the carbon, gunk and clean the mod (such a pain) and still have a working device. I would bet on the clone that the board would be fried or made unusable, glues and wire might leaving an unusable device.

Power - using the same battery, Magma with .6 ohm build, used on three devices

At 30 watts, CNA reads 4.2 volts, output is 3.62,
On my Black Sioux mod, I just got tonight, the output is 3.9, on the Manhatten it is 3.98 - a little cleaning and it would be higher.

At .6 ohms the mechs I used last week held a higher voltage and for significantly longer than the CNA.

Someplace around .7 - 1.1 the CNA outshines a mech by providing more power and longer. But I got tired of testing stuff and have a couple of drippers at 1.0 and 1.1 and I am really enjoying the CNA. Since this range is mostly sub-ohm you are correct.

Oh and one other thing, I believe the CNA 30 chip is limited at 10A vice 12.5 - however I really have nothing to support that. Just the way it seems from what little I vaped at .4 and .5 ohms.
 

Destro

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I'm guessing you mean the positive post, right? I have an origen v2 clone by infinite. Maybe it's similar to yours. The positive post can be adjusted making the 510 connection protude farther down and still be tightened up so it doesn't spin. I could only get it to stick out a hair past the 510 threads without blocking the wire hole in the post though. Take off the top knurled screw that would hold the wire. The remaining bottom knurled section also screws which holds the post tight. You can unscrew the 510 connection which is also the positive post and when you have it where you want it (taking note of the wire hole if you want to use it) then tighten the bottom knurled section while holding the post from the 510 connection with a screw driver. Or something like that, lol. Maybe someone else with an origen v2 can explain it better.
I get what you are saying, but couldn't get the positive post to tighten back up. It would just spin, ill give it another go and see how it fairs



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LiveL0NGandVAP0R

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I get what you are saying, but couldn't get the positive post to tighten back up. It would just spin, ill give it another go and see how it fairs

Just take in mind the positive post is the 510 connection. When you unscrew the 510 connection and the positive post is spinning it's because the bottom knurled section on the post has unscrewed.
 
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