This thread has literally been a part of my life for the past month! Drama, comedy, facts, info, BS, and wining....better then HBO!! Please don't close!!
Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!
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I average 300 "puffs" a day, so that extra click has cost me approximately 30 seconds a day, (.3 sec at 100 clicks), so in a year I will waste about 3 hours a year with these extra clicks to wake up! Crazy!! (Can you tell I am bored!!
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Boy, the sparks were flying in that thread. Not surprised it got closed
Yep.... I closed all my modding threads.... and placed a disclaimer to "build at your risk" as some peeps were trying to build mods from others efforts without having any experience building them....
I average 300 "puffs" a day, so that extra click has cost me approximately 30 seconds a day, (.3 sec at 100 clicks), so in a year I will waste about 3 hours a year with these extra clicks to wake up! Crazy!! (Can you tell I am bored!!
I'll give ya a break from the boredom.... and say that those clicky switches are rated for xxxx pushes for their life... but most are so high that you will probably replace the mod before the switch quits working... he-he...
Ok this is one of those times where "Us" need help from "You" the techy guys and the experienced electricians.....what the h......ll is this and how does it pertain to our boxes.....not being sarcastic, I really want to know?
Saw that earlier today also and saw this comment.....gotta show apples to apples....:
Can you post the full screenshots? From the looks of this image the time/div is set to 50ms, 100ms, and 25ms respectively. Essentially what that means is Cana image is "zoomed out" and the other clone's is "zoomed in". Without proper context the data looks skewed to favor the Cana.
Edit: the pictures are too small to tell what they are measuring, but it MAY be pwm frequency... hard to tell
Added link: Oscilloscope - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Why would you need to use this for a .3 buil? You can just use a mech mod for that.
A .3 ohm coil will get really hot really quickly at the 510 connection.
Im willing to bet that this mighy be the resdon why so many people are having some problems.
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Perfect! And a big shoutout to classwife for allowing it to remain open.Well...since you're here...don't you have an extra MCM laying around? I think the charitable thing to do would be to sell it to me...
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Uh uh uh! No buying/selling outside of the Classies!
Takin' it to PM, sweets.
+1
I have learned a great deal in the past month, most of it from following this thread.
Don't close it!! I've been following this post since the 200's, and even though there is some minor bickering...we're all vapers at the end of the day!
They are both of mine (green and silver), but they are also on the authentic hanas too. They are not sharp or textured at all. I'm not sure why some people are so bothered by them that they send their unit back. It's a complete non-issue.
No, I didn't. I told them to try the trick of leaving the battery out for awhile. Didn't hear back about it though.
I average 300 "puffs" a day, so that extra click has cost me approximately 30 seconds a day, (.3 sec at 100 clicks), so in a year I will waste about 3 hours a year with these extra clicks to wake up! Crazy!! (Can you tell I am bored!!
Might end up with thumb arthritis. lol Wouldn't want that!!!!! Just ship it over here and we will save you lots of pain. LMAO
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I'm one of those people.
I canceled all my pre orders from elev8 because of that reason.
Ordered from FT instead. I have the DNA20 from there, perfect finish.
As Previously posted:
I did a few tests this afternoon.... USB 2 and USB 3 had no bearing on whether the light turned green or red... mine stays red and dims by about 1/2 at full charge. I had previously drilled a hole beside the usb port on the clone so the led was very easy to see.
And on the performance I did the following:
Put together a new carto tank with 3.0 ohm carto. Checked the ohm's of the carto with a ohm checker and meter and both read 3.0 ohms.
Plugged in 8.5 watts @ 3.0 ohm's into my Ohm's Law calculator and receive the voltage answer of 5.04975 volts.
Set my real DNA wattage to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery. Set the Clone to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery.
Screwed the tank onto the real DNA and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 3.0 Voltage reading 5.1v (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed the same tank on the Clone and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 2.7 Voltage reading 4.7v (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed an in-line voltage meter onto the real DNA and screwed the tank into it. Fired with same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 5.1v. The dna display read 5.1v. (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed the in-line voltage meter onto the Clone and screwed the tank into it. Fired with the same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 4.6v. The dna display read 4.7v. (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator @ 8.5 watts )
Also Peviously Posted:
Morning coffee and a vape....
My final opinion is that the clone enclosure, battery holder, and buttons are good. The rest of the internals and 510 connector are not ready for prime time and may be dangerous.
Conclusion is that I cannot and will not recommend this device (logo or non-logo version).
Supporting information being added with this post:
Issues and/or comments reported either here or elsewhere:
1. Milling process of the enclosure allows swirls in the drip well and fire switch areas.
2. Removable back plate of the enclosure may not fit smoothly in all devices.
3. Screws used the back plate are of poor quality.
4. Threaded hole to receive the back plate screws are stripped on some devices.
5. 510 connector center pin is not properly sized in width thus allowing possible short circuits to occur with certain toppers.
6. 510 connector not installed flush with the enclosure thus allowing slightly tilting of toppers on some devices.
7. Battery holder can become dislodged from enclosure due to the use of less effective attachment securing media.
8. USB port can be dislodged from enclosure due to use of less effective attachment securing media.
9. Fire/up/down buttons can become dislodged in some devices due to the use of less effective attachment media.
10. On some devices the attachment media used to secure the clone dna board in the enclosure is applied over board components that radiate heat during operation. This can allow heat buildup.
11. USB charging board leds are not properly fitted and/or the enclosure does not allow easily visual indication of charge state.
12. When pressing the fire button to allow the unit to operate from sleep mode two or more presses are required.
13. When coming out of sleep mode it is noted that the wattage setting has changed on some devices requiring resetting the wattage each time the device comes out of sleep mode.
14. When the device is in locked mode and it comes out of sleep mode with the power lock function activated the power lock mode is no longer activated in some devices.
15. When the device is in sleep mode and left unattended it will come out of sleep mode without any button push by the user on some devices.
16. The on board temperature sensing circuit activates at a higher rate of occurrence compared to the real dna.
17. The ohm reading on the display does not accurately relay the true ohm reading of the coil it is measuring. The variance may be small or larger depending on the clone device as there is no consistent variation.
18. The voltage reading while firing displayed is different that the voltage actually reaching the coil.
19. The warranty contained in the instruction sheet indicated a manufacturer warranty of 90 days. This has not been confirmed however vendors warranty periods are all over the map from DOA to 7 weeks to ?????
20. Logo devices and those that display Hana Modzs on the display seem to violate USA trademark laws. Some vendors have gone underground and China is still sending them and vendors are still selling them.
21. The Clone is reported by many to put out less power that the real dna at the same wattage setting. A scope analysis will eventually compare them to either confirm or deny this claim. My experience confirms this assumption.
I know I have probably missed a few more things so this is not a complete list. Having researched, used, tested and compared many, many devices over many years and building many devices myself I reached my conclusion trying to take all aspects into consideration. This device exhibited more concerns to me than any other device I have used or have memory of. I do not expect, nor intend, that you adopt my conclusion. I only present it as MY CONCLUSION.
My Conclusion Post was intended to be my last post here so I only give you this one in an effort to inform and provide additional information, most of which is already spread throughout this thread.
Have a great day .
retird
That's a mostly fair analysis on the whole.
That said, some of these issues are also found on authentic hanas. The swirl marks, crooked 510 atomizers (which seem far more prevalent in hanas than they do on the clones), poor screws, and poor threads (all aluminum threads are poor by nature of aluminum being so soft). All of these are issues with the original as well. The only difference in that regard is that you won't have the privilege of paying an extra $180 for those flaws if you buy a clone.
And many of these issues don't seem to be happening with any sense of frequency to be a legitimate gripe for the product as a whole. I've not read a single instance of buttons falling out (except for on the test unit). Boards falling out or shifting don't seem to be a widespread problem either. It seems like a lot of conjecture based on very few real instances, if not simply based on theoretical concerns rather than real-life experiences.
I haven't noticed a dearth of "Too Hot" messages on the clone as you have, and certainly no more than on an authentic DNA. In fact, I haven't had any on my clone. That doesn't mean it doesn't happen to some, but it seems like you're purposefully overblowing the issue (and many others) to fit your conclusion. Lots of this stuff needs verifiable substantiation (notes on exactly how many times it happens and under what circumstances) rather than how you feel about it.
Judging clones with NO LOGO and no trace of HANA on them whatsoever along with those that do have said materials isn't quite fair. They are different products (even if the only substantive difference is the inclusion of the trademarked logos/names). To address them as the same product is an attempt at tarnishing one thing for the fault of another thing. How can you judge a no logo clone because another product made by the same manufacturer does have logos? It's purposeful dishonesty.
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