Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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lot17ss

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I received my clone today and I am not impressed with the numbers I am getting from it. The mod is actually really nice looking, black unit from wet vapes. Charge board dimms to red when fully charged and sits at 4.18v as well but not too concerned about this. My issue is that this is being marketed as a 30 watt chip and that is just not true.....with mine at least. Ohm reader is correct which is nice, voltage read out under load on display is correct, voltage measured with my fluke 87 true rms meter tells me its hitting at 25 watts with a 30 watt setting. Tested .8 ohm build at 30 watts and measured 4.45 volts on the meter which is 24.75 watts, dna screen reads its putting out 5v (31watts). Measured 1.4 ohm build at 30 watts is measuring 6v, 25.71 watts on the fluke and the dna screen shows 6.6v (31watts). I have built/used a number of dna30 devices and this hits no where near as good as the authentic, I noticed it right away. On the lower end around 20 watts its out by 2 so I have to bump up to around 22 watts. Don't get me wrong though, for most this chip will totally suffice, if you have the real deal and are hoping for the same vape look elsewhere cause it aint happening here. I am pulling the chip and replacing with an evolv chip, I actually have a some fat daddy 22mm floating 510 just waiting for upcoming projects but I might rob one for this. I think it may need to be threaded with a tap though cause I dont think your going to get the nut on it with all the material on there and it def has to be drilled out which also would be the easiest way to remove the 510 connector too. Might be able to put an old carto or something and use that to try and pull it out in a vice as an alternative.

I don't understand something. If the volts and resistance are correct on the display how can the wattage be off?
 

BigDaddyQ

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I'm sure this has been discussed but why do these clones drain battery life when not in use? Left mine at the office fully charged over night. Came in this morning and it used about 1/4 of the battery.

Same reason your laptop's battery will be diminished even if you leave it in sleep mode. The box is always on. When it goes to sleep, the processor in it is still using a small amount of power. I have a buddy with a real hana mod and hers will drain her sony vtc4 about 20% from full charge after about ten hours of non use.
 

sinnataggen

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Apr 18, 2014
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I'm sure this has been discussed but why do these clones drain battery life when not in use? Left mine at the office fully charged over night. Came in this morning and it used about 1/4 of the battery.

For some reason the clone display turns on once in a while, that could explain the battery life.
Try putting it in locked mode over night, and see if that helps.
 

BigDaddyQ

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Never said I measured the wattage, just did the calculation form the voltage test I did.

Must be your mod. At full charge, my clone is only 0.03 volts off using an inline meter under load. Now that does get worse. I let it run down to a quarter of life left on the battery and saw it was nearly a full 1 volt off. But that's to be expected. A better chip may have better results.
 

Muggs

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Same reason your laptop's battery will be diminished even if you leave it in sleep mode. The box is always on. When it goes to sleep, the processor in it is still using a small amount of power. I have a buddy with a real hana mod and hers will drain her sony vtc4 about 20% from full charge after about ten hours of non use.

Gotcha and yeah that's about the same rate mine drains at. Thanks.

For some reason the clone display turns on once in a while, that could explain the battery life.
Try putting it in locked mode over night, and see if that helps.

It was locked overnight and it's in stealth mode at all times. I guess it's just the board itself always being on.
 

Iceclouds

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Funny thing, as I've posted before, is I think there were more REAL Hana's at the Miami vapefest last weekend then there were clones. Lots of vendors had them in every color with PLENTY of back up stock. Plenty of authentic mini's as well.
Suddenly there's no more wait time.

At this point it is a good Legal Ploy....when the issue comes up in court that the Clones are filling a VOID in the market because HANA can not fulfill orders, they will defend themselves by showing that as of June????? they have had plenty of Units and all orders going forward are being filled in a timely manner.....
 

Iceclouds

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The 510 shouldn't be difficult to replace. Remove old one and surrounding glue. De-solder old one. Solder in the new one, epoxy in place. Providing no resizing needs done with the box itself. With that said I myself might do this eventually. Although I've always been mindful of not over tightening....

I have 2 Hotcig boxes which I am planning to gutt out and replace the complete Insides, if someone can answer a question for me.....I hear everyone referring to Epoxy and also Hot glue........can you guys please tell me which is better and second which Epoxy you recommend....I know there are several (2 separate tubes that mix into 1 kind)......I just need to make sure that I purchase the best possible one.....and most IMPORTANT can it contact Solder points and parts of the board and USB board? Thank you....
 

Zamazam

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Mar 30, 2014
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At this point it is a good Legal Ploy....when the issue comes up in court that the Clones are filling a VOID in the market because HANA can not fulfill orders, they will defend themselves by showing that as of June????? they have had plenty of Units and all orders going forward are being filled in a timely manner.....

Yea, ain't that a coincidence. Hana gets their butts handed to them by a clone invasion and suddenly there are Hana's available for purchase without a 3 month wait time. In the past I stated that I believed that Hana was playing the engineered scarcity game and got flamed for my belief. It's not because more people are buying clones, it's because Hana figured out they better "get while the gettin's good". Now Hana Modz is suing companies, the lawyers get rich and Hana puts the competition out of business so they can sell their $250 Aluminum Boxes with a crappy logo.
 

retird

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Just combining a previous post and a new video.. in an effort to show more data from separate sources for your consideration......please post any further data you have that can further provide information from more sources..thx

As Previously posted:

I did a few tests this afternoon.... USB 2 and USB 3 had no bearing on whether the light turned green or red... mine stays red and dims by about 1/2 at full charge. I had previously drilled a hole beside the usb port on the clone so the led was very easy to see.

And on the performance I did the following:

Put together a new carto tank with 3.0 ohm carto. Checked the ohm's of the carto with a ohm checker and meter and both read 3.0 ohms.

Plugged in 8.5 watts @ 3.0 ohm's into my Ohm's Law calculator and receive the voltage answer of 5.04975 volts.

Set my real DNA wattage to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery. Set the Clone to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery.

Screwed the tank onto the real DNA and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 3.0 Voltage reading 5.1v (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed the same tank on the Clone and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 2.7 Voltage reading 4.7v (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed an in-line voltage meter onto the real DNA and screwed the tank into it. Fired with same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 5.1v. The dna display read 5.1v. (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)

Screwed the in-line voltage meter onto the Clone and screwed the tank into it. Fired with the same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 4.6v. The dna display read 4.7v. (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator @ 8.5 watts )

Also Peviously Posted:


Morning coffee and a vape....

My final opinion is that the clone enclosure, battery holder, and buttons are good. The rest of the internals and 510 connector are not ready for prime time and may be dangerous.

Conclusion is that I cannot and will not recommend this device (logo or non-logo version).

Supporting information being added with this post:

Issues and/or comments reported either here or elsewhere:
1. Milling process of the enclosure allows “swirls” in the drip well and fire switch areas.
2. Removable back plate of the enclosure may not fit smoothly in all devices.
3. Screws used the back plate are of poor quality.
4. Threaded hole to receive the back plate screws are stripped on some devices.
5. 510 connector center pin is not properly sized in width thus allowing possible short circuits to occur with certain toppers.
6. 510 connector not installed flush with the enclosure thus allowing slightly tilting of toppers on some devices.
7. Battery holder can become dislodged from enclosure due to the use of less effective attachment securing media.
8. USB port can be dislodged from enclosure due to use of less effective attachment securing media.
9. Fire/up/down buttons can become dislodged in some devices due to the use of less effective attachment media.
10. On some devices the attachment media used to secure the clone dna board in the enclosure is applied over board components that radiate heat during operation. This can allow heat buildup.
11. USB charging board led’s are not properly fitted and/or the enclosure does not allow easily visual indication of charge state.
12. When pressing the fire button to allow the unit to operate from sleep mode two or more presses are required.
13. When coming out of sleep mode it is noted that the wattage setting has changed on some devices requiring resetting the wattage each time the device comes out of sleep mode.
14. When the device is in locked mode and it comes out of sleep mode with the power lock function activated the power lock mode is no longer activated in some devices.
15. When the device is in sleep mode and left unattended it will come out of sleep mode without any button push by the user on some devices.
16. The on board temperature sensing circuit activates at a higher rate of occurrence compared to the real dna.
17. The ohm reading on the display does not accurately relay the true ohm reading of the coil it is measuring. The variance may be small or larger depending on the clone device as there is no consistent variation.
18. The voltage reading while firing displayed is different that the voltage actually reaching the coil.
19. The warranty contained in the instruction sheet indicated a manufacturer warranty of 90 days. This has not been confirmed however vendors warranty periods are all over the map from DOA to 7 weeks to ?????
20. Logo devices and those that display Hana Modzs on the display seem to violate USA trademark laws. Some vendors have gone underground and China is still sending them and vendors are still selling them.
21. The Clone is reported by many to put out less power that the real dna at the same wattage setting. A scope analysis will eventually compare them to either confirm or deny this claim. My experience confirms this assumption.

I know I have probably missed a few more things so this is not a complete list. Having researched, used, tested and compared many, many devices over many years and building many devices myself I reached my conclusion trying to take all aspects into consideration. This device exhibited more concerns to me than any other device I have used or have memory of. I do not expect, nor intend, that you adopt my conclusion. I only present it as MY CONCLUSION.

My Conclusion Post was intended to be my last post here so I only give you this one in an effort to inform and provide additional information, most of which is already spread throughout this thread.

Have a great day…. :)

retird

China 30 Watt Box vs DNA 20 and DNA 30 Comparison by Basilray

 

retird

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I have 2 Hotcig boxes which I am planning to gutt out and replace the complete Insides, if someone can answer a question for me.....I hear everyone referring to Epoxy and also Hot glue........can you guys please tell me which is better and second which Epoxy you recommend....I know there are several (2 separate tubes that mix into 1 kind)......I just need to make sure that I purchase the best possible one.....and most IMPORTANT can it contact Solder points and parts of the board and USB board? Thank you....

I use JB Weld and from their web site:

Will J-B Weld conduct electricity?

No. J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor. It is an insulator.
 

blueGrassTubb

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I posted a couple times- at Miami Vapefest, there were so many real Hana mods it made my head spin. At least six vendors had all colors, including all minis, with PLENTY of back up stock on each. So the whole "limited availability" stuff was just a crock to make it appear as an "exclusive" elite product to create demand at a higher price then the market would otherwise dictate.

However- I don't think they were the first in this market to do this, and they won't be the last.

They seemed to have taken a calculated risk and lost. Now they're trying to make up for it by suing. They should go after the logo-ed clones. It's clearly a TM infringement. But to go after those who aren't using logo-ed clones is simply taking their ball and going home, pissy that they list their bet, with another company flooding the market with lookalike clones at a much cheaper price. They shouldn't be rewarded for losing a gamble.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Iceclouds

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Jan 17, 2014
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Miami Lakes, Florida
They seemed to have taken a calculated risk and lost. Now they're trying to make up for it by suing. They should go after the logo-ed clones. It's clearly a TM infringement. But to go after those who aren't using logo-ed clones is simply taking their ball and going home, pissy that they list their bet, with another company flooding the market with lookalike clones at a much cheaper price. They shouldn't be rewarded for losing a gamble.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I said previously that I am 100% in agreement with "Any" business not just "Hana" defending their TM, but if you look at their strategy, this is completely controlled by Lawyers, they are not protecting, this is strictly a "Money Grab".....they are going after the larger Online Vendors who of course have the deepest pockets....NONE of these law suits will make it to court....the Plaintiffs and Defendants attorneys will settle out of court, Defendants will pay huge legal fees and Plaintiffs attorneys will get their 30% and Hana will make some good $$$$ and shut their doors down.....Just MHO
 

Zamazam

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Mar 30, 2014
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77
Midwest USA
I have 2 Hotcig boxes which I am planning to gutt out and replace the complete Insides, if someone can answer a question for me.....I hear everyone referring to Epoxy and also Hot glue........can you guys please tell me which is better and second which Epoxy you recommend....I know there are several (2 separate tubes that mix into 1 kind)......I just need to make sure that I purchase the best possible one.....and most IMPORTANT can it contact Solder points and parts of the board and USB board? Thank you....

Epoxy is a permanent solution. It can contact the solder points as long as there is no metal in the Epoxy
 
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