Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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Iceclouds

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Theyre sending me a replacement woohoo

Good for you man, look I have 4 of these puppies and I guess I have been lucky (so far) I am one of the few that have been in here talking these things up almost daily. But I think Cloupor is trying to clean their hands of all these problems (shipping??? Yeah right)...Look the only way to get this people to act and replace your damaged units is to do what you just did....Bug the Heck out of them....Post Videos of the problems.....post negative stuff on their facebook and so on....and they will act.....
 

tepicky

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Good for you man, look I have 4 of these puppies and I guess I have been lucky (so far) I am one of the few that have been in here talking these things up almost daily. But I think Cloupor is trying to clean their hands of all these problems (shipping??? Yeah right)...Look the only way to get this people to act and replace your damaged units is to do what you just did....Bug the Heck out of them....Post Videos of the problems.....post negative stuff on their facebook and so on....and they will act.....

Yup. Mine would do that randomly. About 4-5 times a day. It still fired, but i cant change my settings or lock the wattage settings. Hopefully, elev8 and other vendors replacing wonky units get their money back from cloupor
 

entoptic

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coffee time. good morning!
observations at 16 hours.
I love love love it.
ok, some negatives.
the provided USB charger did not easily connect to the charge port. I did not feel that forcing it was a good idea as :1. the cable is IMO sub standard. 2 the USB charge port is really clumsily attached on the inside. it's askew on 3 axis, but not loose. I'll wait until it's loose to adjust it. so for now I use another micro USB that slides in easily. I left it on charge for 6 hours on good cable connected via real apple wall wart. red light did not go out, but when I disconnected it did and I noticed a very faint bluish green glow behind the display ( my green light?).does not really matter to me as the light was not what interested me in this mod.

the lid is a couple microns off, or is it the box. don't know, don't care. I straightened it out and tightened the steel screws and I can just barely feel the lip, but no more so than an iPhone sim card door. The milling marks are there, around the buttons and 510, but VERY faint. I take and edit photos for a living, details, aesthetics and imperfections are what I deal with and typically stand out to me. The milling is not a bother in any way for me, in fact, it reminds me that the mod is carved out of a chunk of metal (that's cool right?). By contrast, major noticeable milling marks can bee seen even on the face of the hana modz silver, in their own low res shots, on their own website (the ones they're suing over, lol). Honestly I think they should have gone with a brushed or blasted finish, as this thing is a magnet for oils.
I don't care for the fire button, that's just me... I chain vape, and it huwts my wittuw fumm. I really cant count that as a con and it doesn't take a whole pound of pressure like my MVP (I've worn the electro-plating almost completely off that unit)

in 10 hours of vaping, I have experienced a .1 watt drop upon waking the unit (which still fires one click from sleep)

ok. back to the good stuff :)
great weight and feel. its perfect for my hand(s). it's smooth and shiny. it performs as desired, within my desired parameters. :) the button placement and clickiness are great as well! one of my main reasons for deciding on this as a purchase was the fire button being on the side (the other was not having the usb port on the bottom, oh, and quasi passthrough)
no over heating yet. I'll test out the .5 build in my helio (clone) this afternoon and get back to you.

somehow elev8 managed to get it, a new coil jig (mini screwdriver), and and and a blue Dum-Dum to me in approx 56 hours after shipping notice (my kanthal spends that much time in Tampa, lol).
from the elev8 description:
Compact size ~ 3.1" x 2.1" x 1" Aluminum body
Custom milled display screen with a flush fit to the outside of the box
Uses a SINGLE 18650 Battery
Flush 510 connector
Flush dome style Fire Button
7 - 30 watts
4 - 8.3 volts
0.3 - 3.3Ω Atomizer Resistance
On-board USB charging @500mA
LED shows Red while charging and Green when fully charged
Micro USB charger & dust cover included
CAN FIRE 30 WATTS AT ANY OHM RESISTANCE
did anyone get a "dust cover?"

HANA 8/10 had to ding them on the price and supply
Cloupor 7/10 fake chip, poor gluing skills, not their IP
elev8 7/10 wait time(5 weeks), dust cover(?), Custom milled display screen with a flush fit to the outside of the box (major fail), communication ( they had time to play facebook and reddit, but not update actual site) i gave them a point back for the steel screws (cheap, but saved me from having to go to the hardware store or damage device)
 

Completely Average

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This from the Cloupor website.

Common Problems and Solutions for Cloupor DNA30 Modz
2014-06-16 11:07:40
Posted in Latest News By cloupor

“Check Atomizer”
Cause 1) : the negative pole was loose.
Solution: try to screw tightly and see whether it can work or not.
Cause 2) : the positive pole is too low, the atomizer is too deep, so it had been damaged; Solution: about the procedure, we had checked many times, it had no problems.
Cause 3) : Program Bugs
Solution: Please contact the vendors from which you bought or our company, and offer us the video that reproduced the scene so that we can quickly notice this problem and offer you solution in time.

“Too Hot”
1) It is because our chip works all the time, no rest, the following image is our cloupor dna30 modz chip’s Oscilloscope test images.
Solution: Later we will add a special function of self-protection, it will messure temperature in our following production.

“Shinning Screen”
Cause: This is our company’s responsibility, Maybe Screen’s cable does not weld well.
Solution: Within the warranty time, you can contact the vendors from which you bought and our company to ask a replacement.

“Shorter”
Cause: The atomizer’s resistance value is too small.
Solution: Try another atomizer to check whether the mod can work well or not.

“Fire ongoing”
Cause: We checked and excluded all the programs, the cause we can consider is that the products on the shipping road, which lead to on and off key, input and output key is too close
Solution: Check the dna30 chip’s on and off key, input and output key, and our company will increase glue capacity to fixed them.

All our cloupor products are 100% passed strictly quality control, and we will also do sampling inspection to completely promise our products quality before sending them to the distributors from different countries. But the shipping problem is the only one thing that is not under our control, and you also know that every small collision will effect the chip cpu’s function. Our company is trying our best to offer the best products and after sales support for every user, so we hope users can also be confident and trust us. Thanks.

Translation --------

Check Atmoizer means check your atomizer. If everything is OK and you're still getting errors, send the unit back as defective.

Too Hot means that they put too much glue and epoxy on the electronics and they cannot cool properly. Send the unit back for replacement.

Shining or malfunctioning screen is a manufacturing defect. Send the unit back for replacement.

Shorter means stop putting low subohm builds on it. Stay within the documented specifications. (Which is NOT .3ohms BTW)

Fire Ongoing means there is a physical short in either the wiring or the button. It tested OK at the factory, but during shipping something came loose or got bumped and now there is a short. Send it back for replacement. In the meantime Cloupor will use even more epoxy to try to keep parts from moving when the mod is bumped or shaken. :facepalm:




Mine should be showing up within the next 2-3 hours. Got a fully charged VTC5 and a freshly rebuilt Kayfun 3.1 with my favorite twisted wire chimney coil build and some Nicoticket Custard's Last Stand ready to go. I'm going to have to try VERY hard to resist the temptation to remove the plastic window over the electronics and start removing excess epoxy. I'll at least wait until it's out of it's warranty period before I do that.
 

bsoplinger

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I never got a "dust cover" for either unit.
You can get a set of 10 black earphone port plugs & 10 black micro USB port covers for $3 on eBay, less if you order them from China. You can get white-ish / frosted sets but a quick search didn't show a domestic seller on eBay, just China for that color. I'd guess they're meant for smartphones since they're paired but with them being so cheap you can just toss the earphone plugs. I use them on my Android phone and loose them now and again so 10 is a reasonable quantity.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
 

Completely Average

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1.1 ohm’s at 4 volts = 14.5 watts……
The chart has been around for years and is a quick method to see the range of comparing voltage and ohm’s to arrive at wattage.

The chart is color coded and for most vapers the green area is where you will get the best vapor to flavor ratio. Below the green you have reduced vapor and flavor. Above the green you will have more vapor and hotter, less desirable flavor and a burnt taste.

The chart needs to be updated to include sub ohm readings


That chart needs to be updated for many reasons. It was OK as a basic guide a couple of years ago, but in all truthfulness it's mostly just wrong now. It doesn't include dual coils at all which require more wattage than a single coil, it doesn't factor in twisted wire which needs more wattage than a single wire, it doesn't factor in different gauge wires which heat at different rates and different temperatures.

For instance, if you take two 1.5 ohm coils, one made from 32 gauge kanthal and the other made using 28 gauge, the 32 gauge coil will heat faster and achieve higher temperatures at the same wattage.

Really that chart is only useful for people buying retail clearos with retail coils. It's not even good for a basic guide if you're building your own coils.
 

Fegbri

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1.1 ohm’s at 4 volts = 14.5 watts……
The chart has been around for years and is a quick method to see the range of comparing voltage and ohm’s to arrive at wattage.

The chart is color coded and for most vapers the green area is where you will get the best vapor to flavor ratio. Below the green you have reduced vapor and flavor. Above the green you will have more vapor and hotter, less desirable flavor and a burnt taste.

The chart needs to be updated to include sub ohm readings but you can see from the chart that the green range shows a variance from 7.5 to 8.45 watts on the high side to 4.0 to 4.41 watts on the low side depending on ohm’s reading. Then you can see the voltage at any given point. Thus staying between these ranges may give you the best vape. Sub-ohm’ers tell me the chart doesn’t apply to sub-ohm . The chart just shows ohm’s law in an easy read.

The variable power regulator (variable wattage) technology was designed to regulate the voltage depending on the ohm’s reading and wattage setting and automatically adjust the voltage. So, as an example you have a 3.0 ohm coil set at 8.4 watts and it gives you that “perfect vape” . You can remove the 3.0 ohm coil and screw on a 2.5 ohm coil and leave the watt setting at 8.4 watts and the voltage will automatically change to give you the 8.4 watts you desire. Thus the vape quality remains the same.

Since the clone dna is not designed to regulate below 4 volts the “perfect vape” as shown in the green area of the chart can’t be achieved. Thus the 14.5 watts with a 1.1 coil at 4 volts is above the green range of the chart thus hotter and can have a burnt taste…

I know this is kinda technical but hope this helps…..

Thanks. I do understand all of this, but my question is, the more I think about it, the clone can NEVER fall in the green. So how do you get a "perfect vape" on any coil below 1.8 ohms? Does the gauge wire effect things? Is a 28 gauge build at 1.5 ohms different then a 24 gauge at 1.5ohm, or 32 gauge at 1.5? (besides the ID and length of coil). Based on this chart, I'm just trying to figure out how to get a GREAT vape out of the DNA30 that doesnt go below 4.0volts.

Example: I have a fogger v4 built at .9ohm. dual coil, 28 gauge microcoil, it is a pretty good vape at 4v (18ish watts). When I accidentally fired it at 15 watts, the flavor was WAY better! My battery was about half, so it was probably dumping battery at 3.6 volts.

So what type of builds do I need to be doing for this thing to get the perfect vape (I guess that chart means NOTHING to this device). And how are people doing .5ohms at 30 watts and NOT getting burnt tasting hits?? I am very technical, so feel free to explain away to help me!

Thanks!
 
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Completely Average

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What kind of builds are you guys using on this? I'm using a fogger v4 on my mech, 0.6ohm, put it in this clone and it needs to be vaped at 30w to be "similar" to the mech. Obviously I don't want to vape at 30w all the time. Are you guys using 1.5ohm and up?


Err.....

4.2v X 4.2V / 0.6ohm = 29.4watts

That's what you're getting from a fresh battery in a mech mod with that build, so yeah, your cloupor clone would need to be set to close to 30watts to match the 29.4watts of your mech mod.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Translation --------

Fire Ongoing means there is a physical short in either the wiring or the button. It tested OK at the factory, but during shipping something came loose or got bumped and now there is a short. Send it back for replacement. In the meantime Cloupor will use even more epoxy to try to keep parts from moving when the mod is bumped or shaken. :facepalm:




Mine should be showing up within the next 2-3 hours. Got a fully charged VTC5 and a freshly rebuilt Kayfun 3.1 with my favorite twisted wire chimney coil build and some Nicoticket Custard's Last Stand ready to go. I'm going to have to try VERY hard to resist the temptation to remove the plastic window over the electronics and start removing excess epoxy. I'll at least wait until it's out of it's warranty period before I do that.

In the words of Christopher Walken
"Gotta Have More Epoxy"
Sorry I know the situation sucks but it's Walken...
ypu2y5em.jpg



1.21 gigawatts!!!
 

Fegbri

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That chart needs to be updated for many reasons. It was OK as a basic guide a couple of years ago, but in all truthfulness it's mostly just wrong now. It doesn't include dual coils at all which require more wattage than a single coil, it doesn't factor in twisted wire which needs more wattage than a single wire, it doesn't factor in different gauge wires which heat at different rates and different temperatures.

For instance, if you take two 1.5 ohm coils, one made from 32 gauge kanthal and the other made using 28 gauge, the 32 gauge coil will heat faster and achieve higher temperatures at the same wattage.

Really that chart is only useful for people buying retail clearos with retail coils. It's not even good for a basic guide if you're building your own coils.

Saw this AFTER my last post. Makes sense now. THANKS!!!

So what is a GREAT build for dripper/kayfun/dual coil tank (fogger) to use on this clone?
 

Completely Average

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Thanks. I do understand all of this, but my question is, the more I think about it, the clone can NEVER fall in the green. So how do you get a "perfect vape" on any coil below 1.8 ohms?

Easy.

You ignore the chart because it is wrong.

Does the gauge wire effect things? Is a 28 gauge build at 1.5 ohms different then a 24 gauge at 1.5ohm, or 32 gauge at 1.5? (besides the ID and length of coil). Based on this chart, I'm just trying to figure out how to get a GREAT vape out of the DNA30 that doesnt go below 4.0volts.

See my previous post. Different gauge wires absolutely require different wattages to heat the same, even if the coil resistance is the same. The lower your gauge wire, the more power it requires to heat them.




So what type of builds do I need to be doing for this thing to get the perfect vape (I guess that chart means NOTHING to this device). And how are people doing .5ohms at 30 watts and NOT getting burnt tasting hits?? I am very technical, so feel free to explain away to help me!

Thanks!


The real key here is the wick, not the coil.

You can run a coil REALLY hot without getting burnt taste if your wick is feeding it liquid fast enough. Likewise you can get nasty dry hits while being in the "perfect vape" range on that chart if your wick is constricted and not feeding juice to the coils fast enough. When building your own coils getting the wick right for your build is essential.
 

CurlyxCracker

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Alright some of these complaints are just, just, wow...
Too much glue over everything, yeah that isn't good. No dust cover for your micro usb? Those were copy and paste specs from a company that obviously has a difficult time with the English translation. Check pbusardo's review on the cloutank, the translation is horrible! There's some things people have legitimate reasons to moan about but a dust cover?! I'm not singling anyone out as its been mentioned more than once.
All that said, about a month with mine, besides the random 2 presses from sleep and display randomly turning on, no real issues for me..
Btw, I've seen people suggest that the apple a/c adapter is of higher quality, Idk why this would be the case. It's cheap product marked up because it's pretty...
 

Completely Average

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Saw this AFTER my last post. Makes sense now. THANKS!!!

So what is a GREAT build for dripper/kayfun/dual coil tank (fogger) to use on this clone?

I've never used a fogger so I don't know what's best for it.

As far as the Kayfun goes, for people just learning I highly recommend a Chimney Coil build. It's MUCH easier to get the wicking right on a chimney coil if you're running high watts. You wrap the cotton around the outside of the coil rather than running it through the middle, so it's nearly impossible to overwick it. If you get too much wick it just soaks the coil in juice in which case you can simply turn the power up and get even more vapor.

I've taken that concept a step further by doing a twisted wire chimney coil. It has a HUGE amount of surface area, so, assuming I get get the right wattage for it I should be able to compete with subohm coil builds with a 1.4ohm coil.

IMG_1120.jpg
 

CurlyxCracker

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Err.....

4.2v X 4.2V / 0.6ohm = 29.4watts

That's what you're getting from a fresh battery in a mech mod with that build, so yeah, your cloupor clone would need to be set to close to 30watts to match the 29.4watts of your mech mod.

With ZERO voltage drop. Won't happen... Good battery and good hardware will help but you're never getting full battery voltage.
 

Completely Average

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Btw, I've seen people suggest that the apple a/c adapter is of higher quality, Idk why this would be the case. It's cheap product marked up because it's pretty...


Genuine Apple A/C adapters exceed USB specifications, in fact they double it. Apple USB chargers are capable of charging at 1mA, or 1,000 mAh per hour, twice the rate of normal USB chargers.

Which can be good or bad. Don't plug an eGo battery into one, it can result in catastrophic failure.
 

Fullknight

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Alright some of these complaints are just, just, wow...
Too much glue over everything, yeah that isn't good. No dust cover for your micro usb? Those were copy and paste specs from a company that obviously has a difficult time with the English translation. Check pbusardo's review on the cloutank, the translation is horrible! There's some things people have legitimate reasons to moan about but a dust cover?! I'm not singling anyone out as its been mentioned more than once.
All that said, about a month with mine, besides the random 2 presses from sleep and display randomly turning on, no real issues for me..
Btw, I've seen people suggest that the apple a/c adapter is of higher quality, Idk why this would be the case. It's cheap product marked up because it's pretty...
Just Joking about the dust cover..



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Completely Average

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With ZERO voltage drop. Won't happen... Good battery and good hardware will help but you're never getting full battery voltage.

You're really nit-picking though,

The measured voltage drop of my Nemesis is 0.1v. You're still looking at 28+ watts with a 0.6ohm coil. And there would be less voltage drop if I had a copper Nemesis rather than SS.
 
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