Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

[ClintS]

I know some have had no issues and it's working great but too many clearly are having issues , the going from working well to not working really irks me lol.

There are tens of thousands of these in the wild now - yet relatively few reported failures (less than 100? - a less than 1% failure rate.)Do you drive - be careful you may want to change your mind. Do you fly - check that aircraft out, you know a few have just disappeared! All in jest.

But maybe you need something more proven, and they do exist. Maybe a VaporShark or a Hanna Modz, and there are others.

 

[ClintS]

Sounds like they think their more trouble than their worth, final ? Something doesn't sound right .

Their final shipment of dna 30 box mods would be their final shipment of the pre-order they placed running into the thousands of dollars - meaning that for all those that placed pre-orders with them and did not cancel the order, the orders will be fulfilled shortly!

 

[ClintS]

Thanks. I do understand all of this, but my question is, the more I think about it, the clone can NEVER fall in the green. So how do you get a "perfect vape" on any coil below 1.8 ohms? Does the gauge wire effect things? Is a 28 gauge build at 1.5 ohms different then a 24 gauge at 1.5ohm, or 32 gauge at 1.5? (besides the ID and length of coil). Based on this chart, I'm just trying to figure out how to get a GREAT vape out of the DNA30 that doesnt go below 4.0volts.

Example: I have a fogger v4 built at .9ohm. dual coil, 28 gauge microcoil, it is a pretty good vape at 4v (18ish watts). When I accidentally fired it at 15 watts, the flavor was WAY better! My battery was about half, so it was probably dumping battery at 3.6 volts.

So what type of builds do I need to be doing for this thing to get the perfect vape (I guess that chart means NOTHING to this device). And how are people doing .5ohms at 30 watts and NOT getting burnt tasting hits?? I am very technical, so feel free to explain away to help me!

Thanks!

If you are using a cartomizer or non rebuildable tank I'd start at 7 watts and move up until you find what you like, not exceeding 15 watts. (even if the screen is flashing telling you it can't regulate the output)

On rebuildable tanks like the Kayfun I start at 10 watts and move up till I find what I like, typically around 15 watts. Your draw, the amount of air you let into your atomizer, and how well the atomizer is wicked will all determine when the taste goes downhill or start to taste burned. By ensuring one of my better .8 ohm builds on a Kayfun, air control wide open an changing to a slower draw I can vape up to 22 watts for something enjoyable, but I had to experiment some.

For most everything above 15 watts I'm using drippers. With .6 and .7 builds at 20 to 25 watts has been the norm for me the last couple of days. And something I find a more consistent vape over a period of time than using a mechanical.

 

[ClintS]

Yes I did just make a post and forget to attach the pic that I promised... DUH View attachment 348625

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Wow! I just liked your post no more portrait mode...and then this. LOL

 

[ClintS]

clint. I will also have an answer to this...

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I'm looking forward to the review! (in landscape view of course!!!)

I work on several Navy bases and took my clone over to the machine shops and got some hot discussions going. I and one other old timer (defined as working in aero industry machine shops back in the 70s) pretty much agreed that it is a base of chromic acid anodizing followed by an electrostatically applied finish. So it'll be interesting to see what it really is.

 

[ClintS]

so i ask again.... has anyone or the vendors or cloupor addressed why some mods like mine just seem to shut down and fail without warning?

Clouper would need several of these in their hands to see if they could figure out what actually caused the issue. Without the "evidence" they are only second guessing on possibilities.

And second guessing only leads to very debatable things on this this forum.

 

[ClintS]

Dual coiled Oddy2Kayfun conversion kit in a Hercules on Cana30 @.6Ω set to 30 watts.

With rayon wicks.

I was going to ask how long your charge last, but I saw an answer to that.

I heard someone (the Terminator) was asking for Santa at VapeUp last week. Don't know about Santa but I'm headed down there Sunday probably around 1:00 pm.

 

[Guelito]

just ordered a blue one from 101 hope it has the new 510 although I've had 0 issues with my first one

 

[pharzus090]

Wow! I just liked your post no more portrait mode...and then this. LOL

lol. the pic is portrait. vid wont be. im finishing it up now. will have up within next 6 hrs or so.

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[truskme]

how can you tell the difference between the old 510 and the new one? i have an orange in my hand and i cant tell comparing it with the pictures from elev8

 

[pharzus090]

how can you tell the difference between the old 510 and the new one? i have an orange in my hand and i cant tell comparing it with the pictures from elev8

vid will also answer

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[truskme]

after reading around of reddit and on here i feel confident that my replacement that will be sent in from illvapes is gonna last... i mean who can argue with a 1% failure rate. i was just hopeful this wasn't the case because after everything i went through with illvapes i was almost looking forward to leaving this whole pre sale behind me as much as getting the actual mod

 

[pharzus090]

how can you tell the difference between the old 510 and the new one? i have an orange in my hand and i cant tell comparing it with the pictures from elev8

notice the smaller diameter of the + pin inside of the threads on the green one. the new 510 is that.


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[truskme]

notice the smaller diameter of the + pin inside of the threads on the green one. the new 510 is that.
View attachment 348661

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thats what i figured it was... it was the only noticeable difference.. thought there was something else to it. thanks for that

 

[Monolith]

Got a blue one in on friday. Worked for a few hours, then the screen stopped working. Still vapes, but no screen.

 

[DFireOnly]

Got a blue one in on friday. Worked for a few hours, then the screen stopped working. Still vapes, but no screen.

Awwww the factory says you have the limited edition energy saving model. lol


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[garpt01]

So, are these things worth it or having issues?

thinking hard about buying one but idk

In this forum you are going to hear hundreds of folks extremely passionate about a $70 Chinese made vaping device.
I would think it silly, except I am one of them!
IN CONTEXT, these are good devices that work well when properly qualified. Out of the dozens I have had contact with, they work and have no higher a failure rate then any device I've seen out of China. As another said (Clint?)- If you don't expect Provari component quality and quality control and use some common sense, you should be very satisfied.

 

[pharzus090]

Vid is being rendered now. Go faster hackintosh! Frankly speaking. Some of you may not be too happy in lieu of this new info, some of you may be extatic, and some may not give a hoot.

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[cheesestain]

Not sure if this has been already reported but my unit will not display "Check Battery" when the battery is too low.

It will just stop firing.

 

[Completely Average]

Been using mine since I got it yesterday. No problems to report. I have both the red and green LEDs but I'll never see them in normal use. Works like it is supposed to. Wakes up with a single click. Very little battery drop overnight. Since getting it yesterday at 3PM I've still got over 80% charge left. Pretty sure it has the old 510 connector though. Guess I won't be using my Aerotank on it, although I doubt I'll be using it much anymore anyways.

Only problem I've run into was from turning the power up too high and getting a nice burnt cotton hit. My fault, not the mod.