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No, I wasn't referring to you. I was just providing iceclouds with evidence backing his off track statements.
If you don't feel comfortable with making the leap to purchase any of the higher wattage chips yet, and want to gather information, by all means!
I was referring to the person who says these devices are only made for 1ohm and up, and that Evolv was dead, etc.. These statements are the ones that bother me because of people like you (no offense meant) who are looking into a device like this. My understanding is the ECF us here to inform not misinform and flame...
Hey everyone - this will be my last post in here because IT FINALLY ARRIVED! I was watching my e-mail like a hawk. Unboxed my Orange DNA clone and everything looks good. Nice finish, no scratches. Screws came out easily. Battery holder is snug.
I picked up a Copper Tobe Atty clone Friday and it looks amazing with copper/orange. I'm enjoying a 1.2 ohm 26 gage single coil at 30 watts. It's amazing the difference between a mech and a regulated device. Single click takes it out of sleep. Smaller 510 connector as well.
As you can see below - I have some vaping to catch up on. Hope everyone enjoys their device as I am right now.
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Wait a minute your not getting off that easy , whats this "last post" nonsense , nobody abandons this thread unless given specific permission to do so , now who's in charge of the rules?
Sorry but I'm a little lost. No firing below 1.0ohm on a DNA30 mod clone? My hana clone is firing at 0.6ohm. Am I missing something?Not trying to be a Kill Joy, but, you DO realize that the Cana Mod is a DNA 30 mod clone. Meaning, it is limited in voltage from 4-8 VDC. That, means NO low resistance stuff, down to about 1.0 ohms, they are great. Below that, they start to show their hind parts. at .7 give up. Just letting you know, didn't read the whole how ever many hundred pages there are, so, I didn't see if any body got the reason, that the DNA30 DIED. At the time it was made, It was VERY hard to get a chip to go much under 4.0 vdc, NOW however, and for a while, it is VERY possible. MANY of them, go down to 1.5 vdc, letting current do the work, rather than voltage. Power, is what makes the heater, heat. Not JUST voltage, or JUST current, but, the product there of.
But, if your a 1.,0 ohm, and up kind of person, You'll love it. Hope you do. They were kind of neat in their day. I've got a load of the DNA30 chips, and maybe in a couple of years, I'll get less attached to them, and dump them. Until then, I just stare at them, and think of days when I could NEVER get my hands on one. The Nimrod who ran the co. sold them ONE day on his site, for a couple of hours, and that was IT. The rest, went to big companies making mods, and overseas. I got all of mine, from one of the U.K companies that went belly up.
Enjoy, hope I didn't sound like a kill joy. Just wanted needed info. out. And, to play the death Knoll for Evolv, you know, burial services being announced, SOON.
Yellow Hawk
Sorry but I'm a little lost. No firing below 1.0ohm on a DNA30 mod clone? My hana clone is firing at 0.6ohm. Am I missing something?
I have a question. How many people are using RDA's on their clone? Ive been wanting to use my patriot but my topcap needs a bit of force to push all the way on, and when i do i feel like the 510 is going to cave in to the box. So I guess my question is how secure is the 510 in these things?
I have a question. How many people are using RDA's on their clone? Ive been wanting to use my patriot but my topcap needs a bit of force to push all the way on, and when i do i feel like the 510 is going to cave in to the box. So I guess my question is how secure is the 510 in these things?
I'd tend to lean towards being on the careful side with them.I have a question. How many people are using RDA's on their clone? Ive been wanting to use my patriot but my topcap needs a bit of force to push all the way on, and when i do i feel like the 510 is going to cave in to the box. So I guess my question is how secure is the 510 in these things?
Looks slightly lighter than my green one from illvapes...
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk
Well - if it makes you feel any better - I'll post back when I get a few days under my belt to tell you how it's going. I was going to start posting in the owners thread just to keep it pre-buy/post-buy. I did like all the crazy drama in this thread about Illvapes and that saga (Glad it worked out for many) and the post "MY MOD IS ON FIRE" panic.
I'm glad that most people got what they wanted or had a plan if things went pear shaped. To be honest, I'm still on the fence about participating in pre-buys, this is the first one and it turned out alright.
Here's one thing - I've gone through a 1/4 of a fresh VTC5 battery in about 2.5 hours of chain vaping. I've been vaping at 30 watts on a 1.2 ohm coil. I should get about 8 hours of general use with about 5 to 6 of hard use. I don't plan on using the USB to recharge, I'll just swap out batteries.
i just today totally gutted my first gen. (replacing everything but the usb charger ) there was a ridiculous amount of glue that was a ..... to remove totally destroying all three tactile switches. i can say without a doubt that my 510 was only very lightly pressed in. very thin connector with no splines on the shaft, no wonder it already loosened up. i drilled a hole to the left of the usb receptical so i can see when it dims down (battery charged). i drilled and tapped two 3-48 holes to secure the battery holder in. i also plan on securing the usb charge board in w/ 2-56 screws on nylon standoffs. hopefully two thin pieces of micarta with grooves for the evolv dna30 will be all i need to glue and secure it to the body.
I just pop the drip tip out instead of removing the top cap its easier on the 510I have a question. How many people are using RDA's on their clone? Ive been wanting to use my patriot but my topcap needs a bit of force to push all the way on, and when i do i feel like the 510 is going to cave in to the box. So I guess my question is how secure is the 510 in these things?
I have a question. How many people are using RDA's on their clone? Ive been wanting to use my patriot but my topcap needs a bit of force to push all the way on, and when i do i feel like the 510 is going to cave in to the box. So I guess my question is how secure is the 510 in these things?
Thanks CurlyxCracker for clarifying! His trolling made him looks like he's on the downside.Yeah. He's trolling hard. Or has no clue what he's talking about. Also I believe he was referring to the actual DNA chip and the clone by proxy
I'm using the Helios and TOBH clones on mine. I guess both needs a little force to put on the topcap so I'm kinda praying the 510 connection is staying strong. So far, the connection looks like the most sturdiest out of everything else.I have a question. How many people are using RDA's on their clone? Ive been wanting to use my patriot but my topcap needs a bit of force to push all the way on, and when i do i feel like the 510 is going to cave in to the box. So I guess my question is how secure is the 510 in these things?
Is it pretty simple to figure out where everything's connected and where to rig the new board?
Admit it... It was a good thread because I was here. 0.o ;PWTH... happened to this thread....man this was one of the most fun and interesting threads I have ever been a part of.... it was subject driven no matter what side you were on it stayed on Point, now it has become no better than a Social Gathering and
Trolling Thread like a Facebook Thread..... what a shame........ IMO......