Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!

[Nailz]

Talk of FT being slow, and I got home to my 2nd 19mm KFMv3 and 1st KFM v3 plus in the mailbox, 10 days to get to me, pretty fast for china and FT

Both having a bath right now, but will be building later

 

[magicmyst]

Talk of FT being slow, and I got home to my 2nd 19mm KFMv3 and 1st KFM v3 plus in the mailbox, 10 days to get to me, pretty fast for china and FT

Both having a bath right now, but will be building later

 

[Swampus]

Got 2 different orders in today from FT.. orders shipped 2 days apart, avg 12 days, but one thru LA and one thru Miami (much faster)..
so the plus is getting drunk atm.. so far seems to be nice quality..has logo's and looks to be a silver 510 pin .. which the other minis do not.

 

[MsLoud]

2 SXK waiting at home for me. The metal tanks arrived yesterday then the kmv3s popped up this morning haha

Gonna throw everything in for a wash before dinner then set them up. Pics when done!

 

[tchavei]

My record with fasttech was 6 days. However most packages are around 3 weeks and some two months. Depends not only on fasttech but also my dear customs who like to hold some packages for months just to tease me. Yeah, I know. I'm special. :/

Enviado do meu GT-I9195 através de Tapatalk

 

[Nailz]

OK update on the 2 I got from fasttech, the 19mm one - $18.54 Kayfun Mini V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 2ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 19mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping build quality is good, but 1 big problem I don't like, there is nothing on the chimney, so you have no idea how many times you have rotated the juice control, right now I have put a black line at the top of the tank, which is not ideal, but have to do, I would not buy again just for this reason.

The plus version - $18.44 Kayfun Mini V3 Plus Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3.5ml / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping, I have no complaints at all, good build quality, did a spaced coil with 26 gauge kanthal, about 8-10 wraps, coming out at 1.04 ohms, bit lower than I wanted, but was just a thrown together build to try it out. Also got some new juice today, so used that, but didn't notice till I filled the tank, it is max VG juice, but with the juice control opened 3 turns, it is wicking just fine

 

[tchavei]

OK update on the 2 I got from fasttech, the 19mm one - $18.54 Kayfun Mini V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 2ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 19mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping build quality is good, but 1 big problem I don't like, there is nothing on the chimney, so you have no idea how many times you have rotated the juice control, right now I have put a black line at the top of the tank, which is not ideal, but have to do, I would not buy again just for this reason.

The plus version - $18.44 Kayfun Mini V3 Plus Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3.5ml / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping, I have no complaints at all, good build quality, did a spaced coil with 26 gauge kanthal, about 8-10 wraps, coming out at 1.04 ohms, bit lower than I wanted, but was just a thrown together build to try it out. Also got some new juice today, so used that, but didn't notice till I filled the tank, it is max VG juice, but with the juice control opened 3 turns, it is wicking just fine

No need for marks on the atty.

You hold the top of the atty with one hand, the mod with the other and turn the MOD...

Unless your mod is an uniform tube without any engravings, it works

Enviado do meu GT-I9195 através de Tapatalk

 

[Nailz]

No need for marks on the atty.

You hold the top of the atty with one hand, the mod with the other and turn the MOD...

Unless your mod is an uniform tube without any engravings, it works

Enviado do meu GT-I9195 através de Tapatalk

Sometimes the solution is just so simple, but just don't think of it, thanks

 

[Swampus]

Count your thumb

 

[MsLoud]

Perfect. No complaints. Two with the metal tanks are the SXK versions with the flow ring. I'll certainly be ordering more cause I love the flow ring. Polishes the look. I also like the solid metal tank best.
BTW - the SXK came with not only a spare poly tank which I expected but the complete tank is poly too. I would not be happy about that if I wasn't planning on using metal tanks and had spare glass...so be aware if ordering.

 

[Nailz]

Getting addicted to these Kayfuns, just like I did the old kayfun lite's, I had 6 of them at one time, now just gone and ordered 2 black kayfun mini v3's from vapenw, that will be number 4 and 5 KFM v3's, if they are good too, then probably order 2 more silver from vapenw and then think I will be done

 

[sark666]

I'm having one issue with my kf mini v3. I'm getting a bit of gurgling. Not a lot, but just a bit to be annoying. No juice coming out the air holes. If I ever had gurgling in the kayfun lite (from not top filling correctly) I could just turn it upside down and blow and the excess juice would come out the airhole, wipe and it was fine. Upside blowing doesn't seem to work here. The only other time I had an issue like this with my old kf lite was with the top cap center oring. I haven't taken it out since cleaning, but it looks perfectly seated. And if I cover all 4 airhole and take a draw, no air escapes.

I've rewicked three times and this time I put as much wick as I possibly could (1.6 ohm, on a 2.5 mm coil) to see if that would stop the gurgling but no dice. I usually like a tight draw and I've opened up the airhole way more than I do on my kayfun. Right now I would consider it a somewhat airy draw but still gurgling. Going to do a tear down next but thought I'd post to see if anyone else encoutered this. And I thought I would take advantage of the juice flow control. I tried just a 1/2 turn to see if that would stop it but it continued.

 

[Swampus]

Hmm.. Did you try blowing thru the drip-tip while firing, maybe that will clear it?
I haven't had the problem with these.

 

[KTMRider]

Getting addicted to these Kayfuns, just like I did the old kayfun lite's, I had 6 of them at one time, now just gone and ordered 2 black kayfun mini v3's from vapenw, that will be number 4 and 5 KFM v3's, if they are good too, then probably order 2 more silver from vapenw and then think I will be done

I have 12 KFv4 clones because I was able to work around the shortcomings and I love the top fill. The 2 silver KM3's are working mostly ok but my black one is just about unuseable.

The only other atomizers I've tried in over a year is a Lemo 2 and an Aromamizer v2. I'm not a lung hitter so I'm not thrilled with them but they seem ok. The Aromamizer is definitely much more solid though.

 

[MsLoud]

I have 12 KFv4 clones because I was able to work around the shortcomings and I love the top fill. The 2 silver KM3's are working mostly ok but my black one is just about unuseable.

Is it from the black paint? Can you scrap it off the 510 threads or soak in fingernail polish remover? I'm pretty much a purist when it come to bare metal tanks - never been into colored ones myself so it's not an issue for me - just curious.

I'd buy these KMv3 atties by the handfuls...I love them. I got the SXK because of the flow ring...it's sexiness

 

[Kyi]

Hm, I ran into another little issue with my mini. While adjusting airflow, I tightened it all the way to closed, and then gradually open it while sucking through the drip tip to find the airflow that I like. Well, apparently I tightened it too much, as when I try to loosen the AFC screw, it started unscrewing the center post and my build deck started to come apart. I took the entire center post out so I could fix it, but I was having a lot of trouble untightening it. After some time of fiddling with it, I finally got the AFC screw loose, so I carefully screwed the center post back in, and then adjust the AFC screw again, making sure to not tighten it all the way down again to avoid that issue. My new coil was at 1.14 ohms. Everything seemed fine. After putting the rest of the tank back on top of the base, my resistance jumped up again to 1.3. I made extra care to avoid moving the build deck too much or doing anything to disturb the center post, but somehow it STILL changed. I mean, since it works, I'm okay but I just don't know how to get the darn thing to keep the original resistance! In pbsuardo's review, he mentions that the resistance has a tendency to jump a bit, so I know it's normalish, but nevertheless, I hope to eventually find a fix to this issue.

But yea.. try not to tighten the AFC screw all the way or you will run into my same issue. I am actually pretty relieved I got it loose, because otherwise, I wouldn't be able to use this tank at all with the air completely closed!

 

[MsLoud]

I have the grub screw (afc) out on all 3 of mine. I like the hit - its perfect for me. I have no issues with the resistance but I do use SS 316 28g and on my ProVaris I can adjust the volts so no worries there.

 

[KTMRider]

Is it from the black paint? Can you scrap it off the 510 threads or soak in fingernail polish remover? I'm pretty much a purist when it come to bare metal tanks - never been into colored ones myself so it's not an issue for me - just curious.

I'd buy these KMv3 atties by the handfuls...I love them. I got the SXK because of the flow ring...it's sexiness

I got the one where it's black only on the exterior surfaces. I do like the silver one that works well. The other silver can change resistance but not often.

I have taken the black one apart and rebuild new coils, swapped out the 510 pin bushing/insulator with one from my KF4, took out the afc screw and looked at every contact point and can't figure it out. It's somewhat usable with kanthal but not ni200. I haven't used kanthal in over a year.

*snip*
In pbsuardo's review, he mentions that the resistance has a tendency to jump a bit, so I know it's normalish, but nevertheless, I hope to eventually find a fix to this issue.
*snip*

He twisted the positive block when he reinstalled the center pin which caused a short. He mentioned that after he straightened that out, it was solid.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

No need for marks on the atty.

You hold the top of the atty with one hand, the mod with the other and turn the MOD...

Unless your mod is an uniform tube without any engravings, it works

Enviado do meu GT-I9195 através de Tapatalk

Or you can count the juice-flow holes. 6, 9, 12 holes = 1, 1.5, 2 turns, respectively.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

Hm, I ran into another little issue with my mini. While adjusting airflow, I tightened it all the way to closed, and then gradually open it while sucking through the drip tip to find the airflow that I like. Well, apparently I tightened it too much, as when I try to loosen the AFC screw, it started unscrewing the center post and my build deck started to come apart. I took the entire center post out so I could fix it, but I was having a lot of trouble untightening it. After some time of fiddling with it, I finally got the AFC screw loose, so I carefully screwed the center post back in, and then adjust the AFC screw again, making sure to not tighten it all the way down again to avoid that issue. My new coil was at 1.14 ohms. Everything seemed fine. After putting the rest of the tank back on top of the base, my resistance jumped up again to 1.3. I made extra care to avoid moving the build deck too much or doing anything to disturb the center post, but somehow it STILL changed. I mean, since it works, I'm okay but I just don't know how to get the darn thing to keep the original resistance! In pbsuardo's review, he mentions that the resistance has a tendency to jump a bit, so I know it's normalish, but nevertheless, I hope to eventually find a fix to this issue.

But yea.. try not to tighten the AFC screw all the way or you will run into my same issue. I am actually pretty relieved I got it loose, because otherwise, I wouldn't be able to use this tank at all with the air completely closed!

Heh heh. I tightened the AFC grub screw on my Tobeco clone all the way in and it came completely off the internal threads - which gave me a minor panic attack. The screw was just sort of rattling around in there and wouldn't go any further in or out.

I was able to get the screw back on the internal threads by gently applying pressure on the screw using a straightened paper clip inserted into the air hole from the top, while at the same time reversing the screw from the bottom.

Needless to say, I won't be adjusting the air flow very often.