Well my Tobeco's are sitting at my MIL's house about 350 miles from here. We were planning on going yesterday but changed our minds to next Monday.
Well IDK about that but I have always bought my SX's from Varitube and have heard from the few that had a problem Perry sends you a paid label and just send it back to him and he takes care of it. Most of my M's are off their 1 year warranty now but I have never had a problem so I couldn't say. To each his own some love em some hate em. Same with the DNA's that's what scared me off of them was reading the Evolve forum which probably was mostly user error but there were sure a lot of problems.I wasted enough time and money on Yihi chips so I have no interest in them. I also didn't like their warranty policies. Basically like most insurance companies, they'll use every excuse to not uphold their warranty. In the end, it's a poorly made Chinese board that they're charging a premium for that's unwarranted for the (lack of) performance.
Don't be, I so appreciate your wanting to!They got it sooner, sorry
So what's the verdict on the Tobeco's![]()
The chimney section should be tightened well to the glass tube. 2 full turns on the authentic is full open. I can't say on the Tobeco but it should be the same. Should be enough wick to reach the bottom of the juice spaces where the holes are but even if your wick was too short you should have gotten bubbles.Cleaned the black Tobeco...coiled wicked...4 pip air hole...close off juice control...filled...opened 3 1/2 turns...nary a bubble...wick dry as a bone after the initial wetting. Pulled the wick out (had cut it just a mm or two past the deck...combed and fluff....still no wicking action. 2.55mm coil, muji cotton, firm, not overly tight in the coil..24 ga @ 10 wraps...0.8ohms. Is there some super secret step I missed or is it a lemon?????
With the juice flow open you should be able to change the AF settings with the juice flow open with it closed you are unable to get the AF ring up enough to change settings.That is weird are you sure you are just turning the juice control. On the bottom of the atty the top part of the SS should stay with the glass when you turn and the bottom most part with the AF slots should remain in the same position. It sounds like you are loosening the glass tube from the bottom part of the chimney. Did you lube the Orings on the build deck?
You should see the little doors on the juice flow holes on the chimney open up slightly.Cleaned the black Tobeco...coiled wicked...4 pip air hole...close off juice control...filled...opened 3 1/2 turns...nary a bubble...wick dry as a bone after the initial wetting. Pulled the wick out (had cut it just a mm or two past the deck...combed and fluff....still no wicking action. 2.55mm coil, muji cotton, firm, not overly tight in the coil..24 ga @ 10 wraps...0.8ohms. Is there some super secret step I missed or is it a lemon?????
The chimney section should be tightened well to the glass tube. 2 full turns on the authentic is full open. I can't say on the Tobeco but it should be the same. Should be enough wick to reach the bottom of the juice spaces where the holes are but even if your wick was too short you should have gotten bubbles.
Check your juice holes on chimney...could be defectCleaned the black Tobeco...coiled wicked...4 pip air hole...close off juice control...filled...opened 3 1/2 turns...nary a bubble...wick dry as a bone after the initial wetting. Pulled the wick out (had cut it just a mm or two past the deck...combed and fluff....still no wicking action. 2.55mm coil, muji cotton, firm, not overly tight in the coil..24 ga @ 10 wraps...0.8ohms. Is there some super secret step I missed or is it a lemon?????