Battery Info & Safety Sticky

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rdsok

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Okay. Here it goes. Click on the image for a bigger view.

View attachment 125341

Basically, it takes the trigger, and moves it's circuit connection internally. There will be two springs, the hotspring on the outside, connecting the negative of the battery, and one inside the base of the unit, that works the trigger. When you push on the trigger, it completes the circuit in the base of the unit.

This also takes care of my biggest issue with the Telescope, which is over-tightening can cause it to complete the circuit.

I'll have to think this one through a bit... it isn't a design I had already thought of and thrown out for some reason like the earlier ones mentioned previously...
 

LordDavon

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I'll have to think this one through a bit... it isn't a design I had already thought of and thrown out for some reason like the earlier ones mentioned previously...

Not sure why it uploaded sideways, but I am going to blame Apple. :)

Add: If someone could do a proper diagram of it, that would be great.
 
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Sense Field

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I see what SF is saying, if the HotSpring is made to be part of the circuit, then the HotSpring will work. With that, I agree. I am not sure how a ledge will work, unless the Telescope is designed for a single battery size though.

I do have another idea on how this could work, but my drawing will suck. Although, I'm going to try. :)

The switch could be encased inside the bottom cap. The spring would be inside governing the motion of the switch. Then they can put that plastic piece on top of it to avoid the battery shorting against the switch casing. Could also use a thick rubber washer.

I don't know...I'm trying...not an expert..I'm just think about how it's done on the similar mods I've used.
 

Sense Field

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Okay. Here it goes. Click on the image for a bigger view.

View attachment 125341

Basically, it takes the trigger, and moves it's circuit connection internally. There will be two springs, the hotspring on the outside, connecting the negative of the battery, and one inside the base of the unit, that works the trigger. When you push on the trigger, it completes the circuit in the base of the unit.

This also takes care of my biggest issue with the Telescope, which is over-tightening can cause it to complete the circuit.

LD...I have almost the same exact diagram on my phone right now but I can't upload it! TapaTalk says I'm over my limit or something.
 

LordDavon

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LD...I have almost the same exact diagram on my phone right now but I can't upload it! TapaTalk says I'm over my limit or something.

Awesome. Mine isn't a good diagram, so we probably need to get yours up here. If you can open Skype, you can send it to me, and I can upload it.
 

Sense Field

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image.jpg

There we go...had to use the real site is safari to get it to work.

The ledge isn't the same as in the last drawing...this is basically the top of the switch housing. it would need rubber or some sort if non metal coating/o-ring/plastic piece to keep the battery from touching the metal top of the switch housing or "ledge" as I've labeled it.
 
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Sense Field

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Kind of hard to tell which part moves, and which part is stationary.

Shading, or texture would help.

The peg going through it moves. So does the bottom two lines that touch the bottom of the spring.

I can do this better when I'm not using a crappy vector program on my iPhone.

I'll be home later tonight.
 

Briar

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Folks, why are you making everything so complicated? The way this is going, you might as well be designing a whole new PV... :facepalm:

Simple, responsible and cheap solution: vent holes (being done already) and replaceable fuse. To make the whole thing as idiot-proof as possible, sell the Telescope with the fuse included, for another 5 or 10 bucks.

Or, to be a little less idiot proof, recommend using the fuse (or Short Stop) right on the product page - and carry it eventually. No extra expenditure, pro-active safety attitude. All done.

This is a relatively inexpensive product - for God's sake, don't try to make it into a bomb shelter. I don't want to end up spending 200 bucks to get it, and I can assure you, no-one else does either. The above is entirely sufficient.

Not to try and beat a dead horse here, but really... :D
 

rdsok

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I'm in complete agreement with Briar on that...

... but also at the same time was enjoying the mental exercise as well... even after coming to the same conclusion as she had long ago, I still found myself trying to think through another method that uses a cheaper hot spring instead of a fuse which costs a little more to replace.
 

LordDavon

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It's not about the people that will use this with single batteries, and/or use a Kick or Fuse. It's about people who will stack batteries, and put an LR atty on it, just not knowing any batter.

My issues with the Telescope aren't with the airflow, but with the switch itself. I am able to pop a battery in, and over tighten it to the point that it activates. That causes concern with me, and a Fuse or Kick isn't going to solve that issue. I finally think we are on the right track for the Telescope, and think this discussion has great merit. Let's not get off track.
 

rdsok

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I'm not against going forward... it's just that the other solutions did seem sufficient... I also don't think too much about trying to make something idiot proof because the world has a way to make bigger idiots ( or however that saying goes )


So far on your design I can only think of one potential issue and it's minor... if the hot spring collapses to the side it would complete the circuit... An insulator sleeve for the hot spring area would resolve that one easily.
 

LordDavon

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I'm not against going forward... it's just that the other solutions did seem sufficient... I also don't think too much about trying to make something idiot proof because the world has a way to make bigger idiots ( or however that saying goes )


So far on your design I can only think of one potential issue and it's minor... if the hot spring collapses to the side it would complete the circuit... An insulator sleeve for the hot spring area would resolve that one easily.

I agree that we can't make these things idiot proof, but it doesn't hurt to try. My issue with the over-tightening, is that it can be done too easily for my comfort. When I used the Kick in my unit, I was tightening this gently, because I didn't want to hurt the Kick. But, once I started testing it without the Kick, it was the first issue, and my biggest, sent to Dan.
 

LordDavon

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I'm not against going forward... it's just that the other solutions did seem sufficient... I also don't think too much about trying to make something idiot proof because the world has a way to make bigger idiots ( or however that saying goes )


So far on your design I can only think of one potential issue and it's minor... if the hot spring collapses to the side it would complete the circuit... An insulator sleeve for the hot spring area would resolve that one easily.

Oh, I forgot to comment on the spring issue. The may I see it, if the sprint melts, the battery should drop/move/disconnect also. If the hotspring is no longer able to hold the battery in place, it will cause the positive to disconnect.

With the current design of the Telescope, the pin completes the circuit, and even if the spring were to melt away, the circuit continues. With this design, the pin is no longer holding the battery in place.
 
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Sense Field

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It's not about the people that will use this with single batteries, and/or use a Kick or Fuse. It's about people who will stack batteries, and put an LR atty on it, just not knowing any batter.

My issues with the Telescope aren't with the airflow, but with the switch itself. I am able to pop a battery in, and over tighten it to the point that it activates. That causes concern with me, and a Fuse or Kick isn't going to solve that issue. I finally think we are on the right track for the Telescope, and think this discussion has great merit. Let's not get off track.

Totally agree.

We have to remember two things.

1) we are not the only people buying this. GotVapes most likely has more customers off the forums then on. It has to be workable without much explanation.

2) Other venders will eventually have this mod, opening availability up to a ton of people who have no clue as to what issues could possibly be there.

I have the same issue as LD...I had the mod tightened down where there was hardly any play in the switch and didn't realize it...I put it down while driving and suddenly smelled something weird. The mod was firing off for probably 30-40 seconds and had a burning smell to it.

If someone tightens it up and doesn't realize it's firing...it will just keep firing.
 

Sense Field

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