Battery Voltages -- Surprise!

[Thulium]

No offense, Don, but I don't remember seeing any other mAh rating for the 510 batteries than 180mAH. I'm gonna guess, however, that the reason for the complaints of short battery life might be due to the voltage drop from the switch circuitry prematurely bringing the effective voltage below the the cutoff voltage prematurely (isn't it around 2.8V?)

 

[Kelemvor]

somewhere deep inside the janty board ....

FYI - and JantyMod will make a sticky out of this soon-

We do not measure in hours but in amount of puffs:

Janty Stick battery: 360 Mah ---500 puffs
Classic battery: 280 Mah--- 400 puffs
Kissbox battery: 230 MAh--- 360 puffs
Dura battery: 180 MAh--- 250 puffs
Dura-C battery: 150 MAh--- 180 puffs
Minifogger battery: 150 MAh--- 180 puffs

this was a bit corrected about the number of puffs by janty_Harry a bit later on our german ERF board.

but the text above came straight from Ludo

 

[DonDaBoomVape]

No offense, Don, but I don't remember seeing any other mAh rating for the 510 batteries than 180mAH. I'm gonna guess, however, that the reason for the complaints of short battery life might be due to the voltage drop from the switch circuitry prematurely bringing the effective voltage below the the cutoff voltage prematurely (isn't it around 2.8V?)

No offense taken, Thulium! Just because I'm long-winded and write in an authoritative manner, does not mean I am correct. I have made more gaffs than I would like to admit.

I am not sure, however, whether this is one of them. For example:

Quoting Ludo:
Dura battery: 180 MAh--- 250 puffs
Dura-C battery: 150 MAh--- 180 puffs

Thanks for this, Kelemvor! Talk about on-topic. Just the right information at the right time!

The "Dura" is the Joye510 automatic battery. The "Dura-C" is the Joye510 manual battery, the predominate type offered by suppliers and that most of us use.

I do think that the eGO/Tornado will wind up usurping the preeminent position of the standard 510 battery. The 510 atty is here to stay. Its vapor production is staggering (and for something so small). I just wish I got TH from it. [But I am so happy with my penstyle attys that it is not a tribulation.]

 

[DC2]

I know a lot about a lot of things, and this stuff is not one of them.


I am looking forward to the end of deliberations and a simple synopsis.

This all explains, of course, why my Chuck gives more vapor than my 510 manual batteries.
But what confuses me is why the stock 510 considered to give more vapor than most others?

 

[Kelemvor]

because the 510 is designed to work very well with the stock batteries ( 2.2 Ohm Coil )

this atomizer runs with more watts on a simple 3.7V device than 901/801 atomizers which have ~1ohm resistance more.

[edit] i was referring to Joye510, most clones have more ohms, near the 901. making the SLB510 a 901 with shorter atomizer chamber and wrong threads .
imo a cheap way to spring on the 510 "hype"

 

[DC2]

because the 510 is designed to work very well with the stock batteries ( 2.2 Ohm Coil )

this atomizer runs with more watts on a simple 3.7V device than 901/801 atomizers which have ~1ohm resistance more.

[edit] i was referring to Joye510, most clones have more ohms, near the 901. making the SLB510 a 901 with shorter atomizer chamber and wrong threads .
imo a cheap way to spring on the 510 "hype"

I am way to stupid to understand what you just said.


And yes, I was a physics minor about 20 years ago.
But we didn't spend much time on watts or ohms or resistance.


I hate not knowing what the hell you guys are talking about.

 

[Kelemvor]

just remember that a joye510 runs hotter on the same volts than 801/901.
increasing throat hit, vapor and giving a different taste.

 

[DC2]

just remember that a joye510 runs hotter on the same volts than 801/901.
increasing throat hit, vapor and giving a different taste.

Oh yeah, some of it is coming back to me now.


So it runs hotter because of more power because of higher resistance.
Did I get that right?

 

[Kelemvor]

lower resistance

 

[theBike45]

The amount of heat a device can produce is determined by the amount of
energy it receives, which is wattage, not voltage. So why the amazement that a lower voltage device can produce more heat? If one atty cn produce more heat than another, then it's either more efficient at converting electricity to heat, or it's receiving a higher wattage feed, or it's simply larger and drawing more power than the other does from the battery. An elctrical source only provides the amount of power a device asks for.

 

[son et lumiere]

I read in the janty forum that someone took their ego to a radio shack type place and measured the voltage at 4V.

 

[Kelemvor]

@theBike45

so ? wattage is U²/R
because R (Resistance) and U ( Voltage )are the semi static values here, making a low resistance atti like the 510 running hotter with more watts.

but it was called for an easy explanation, nothing more.

PS: and yes, i know that theres more than only resistance involved for a performing atomizer. but thats still not the point

*klugscheiss modus off*

 

[Scottbee]

The amount of heat a device can produce is determined by the amount of
energy it receives, which is wattage, not voltage. So why the amazement that a lower voltage device can produce more heat? If one atty cn produce more heat than another, then it's either more efficient at converting electricity to heat, or it's receiving a higher wattage feed, or it's simply larger and drawing more power than the other does from the battery. An elctrical source only provides the amount of power a device asks for.

There is no amazement. Perhaps you don't understand the point that was being made.

For any given resistance (atomizer), more voltage will yield more wattage.

 

[Scottbee]

I read in the janty forum that someone took their ego to a radio shack type place and measured the voltage at 4V.

"Unloaded" voltage measurements aren't really relevant or useful. Just measuring a battery voltage while it is not actively delivering power to representative load (resistance) doesn't tell ya much.

 

[BamaOz]

Exactly...its well documented on these forums that the Ego/Tornado batteries put a consistent 3.1V to the atomizers....And in my opinion 3.1V is all that is needed if the atomizer is in good shape and your cart is properly stuffed and filled.

 

[brandon555]

This proves my theory that my kanger kr-8 batt is better than my other ones.

 

[AlexTM]

Well … do define "better", please. Because if it fries 510 atties (which it of course is not even supposed to take), that is not "better" by my definition.

 

[voltaire]

Well … do define "better", please. Because if it fries 510 atties (which it of course is not even supposed to take), that is not "better" by my definition.

I've been using KR808 batteries on 510 attys for over a month and I haven't fried one yet. IMO, it is a tiny bit better - if not slightly more vapor every time, it seems to be more consistent vapor at least. It doesn't hurt that they also have more mAh and last longer, though that's because they are longer, particularly with the adapter.

We're not talking a huge voltage increase. There's no reason it should fry attys at all - people regularly run at significantly higher non-PWM voltages with relatively few problems. As with any voltage, including stock, the user needs to be aware to keep the atty wet and not let it get too hot.

 

[Scottbee]

Agreed. There are those, such as myself, who feel that the 510 atty runs a bit "better", and stays "cleaner" while running at a full 3.7V (when compared to 3.1V or so). Doesn't matter where you get the 3.7V from.. a KR808D-1 battery, a Bartleby, a box mod, a nicostick, a tubular mod.. wherever.

 

[AlexTM]

But this is again a matter of taste, which is, as we all know, not really discussable. Some prefer their 510 atties on 3,1 (I'm one of them), others on 3.7.

The point being, one is not "better" than the other.