Benefits of 30+W devices and box mods?

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FinchX

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I'm almost ashamed to be asking this because I've been vaping so long, and I tried posting it to the new comers section where it probably belongs, but anyway...

I was just reading a thread about box mods because even though I'm not a fan if their styling, I'm curious as to why so many people swear by them, so I've been thinking about reading some reviews and possibly ordering one later on down the road. Currently I'm looking at an inexpensive simple device, the MVP 2, but I would like to see something similar in simplicity and not too expensive that would utilize one of my many 18650 batteries... I've already looked at the Reo, and have no interest in anything like that. I want a 510 connection I can hook my carto tanks and clearos to with ease... any suggestions there?

In that same thread, someone suggested the DNA 30. I haven't personally looked into this device so I don't know much about it, but that post led to someone posting about the 50w box mod they had ordered, which even led to yet another post where another ECF member was talking about devices offering 100w.

So the 2nd part to my inquiry here is why on earth do you need a device that offers 30+w? I feel like such a noob for asking, but what are these high watt devices used for? What purpose do they serve and what are the benefits? I'm fairly sure it's something beyond my personal vaping needs, but I can't help but ask out of curiosity. I have a lot of online friends who come to me for vaping advice rather than looking themselves or joining a forum like ECF so the more I ask and learn the better for my own personal satisfaction and being able to help my friends with vaping as much as possible.
 

Ryedan

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I'm not up on all the box mods out there. I have a Reo Grand and that's great for me. The box mod shape is very easy to carry in a pocket and it doesn't roll off my desk when I'm not watching. The MVP is a good deal. Inexpensive, seems to perform well for people and the battery lasts a long time between charges. I'm sure you'll get a bunch of suggestions from other people on other box mods.

I'm vaping a Cyclone RDA on my Reo right now with dual coils at 1/2 ohm. That makes right around 30 watts on a fresh battery. I change batteries when it gets down to around 22 watts. I don't know of any clearos you can vape with that much power and avoid burnt hits and though I'm less sure of it, I also doubt there are any cartos that will do it.

The Reo is a mechanical mod so it suffers from all the usual negatives they have. The power drops as the battery charge and voltage drops in use. There are no safety features in electronics that will protect you from a short or stop you if the battery voltage goes too low. I'm on my own for all that stuff. The advantage is I have direct access to my 30 amp Sony VTC batteries and all the power they have.

A 22 - 30 watt vape is perfect for me. It makes enough vapor that I only take longer than a two second drag when the power gets on the low end. I setup for a cool vape with maximum flavor.

When I started vaping at higher power than typical regulated mods offer there were only mech mods that did that. I'm very comfortable with this style of vaping now and it's really all I need. If I were starting this journey today I would probably chose one of the high power regulated mods on the market. I haven't used one, but I think they are the best of both worlds with stable power through battery discharge and safety. 30 watts wouldn't be enough for me as I wouldn't want to run the mod at its highest setting all the time. 50 watts is what I would probably go for.
 

Ay Dee Jay

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I was wondering the same thing when I learned of their existence (30W+ devices), but it ties in with sub-ohming to some extent, in that sub-ohm vapers typically are stuck with either mechanical unregulated devices where there's no moderately expensive chipset protecting itself from destruction, or high-power devices with beefy chipsets that can handle the power requirements, starting with least 30 watts if you're in the 0.3 ohm range, and more if you get extra stunt-y.

Some "cloud chasers" might go as low as 0.11 ohm or more and at 3.3V that's 99 watts and 30 amps, meeting the limit of most high-end batteries. This is all essentially meaningless if you don't have everything down pat because you're looking at a hot deathly vape of misery. But if you tweak enough things, have enough airflow, lower nic juice, the desire to go nuts, you can pull off stunt vaping with flavor and without coughing out your lungs, but I still think it's stunt vaping.

These devices will typically use two 18650s in parallel or an internal battery pack that likely has multiple cells in parallel.

Nobody needs this, it's pretty hard core and you have to be looking for insane vapor production; see Rip Trippers' Cloud Chasing 101 on YouTube to get an idea of what you need to optimize across the entire board to make any use of such a tremendous wattage without burning your juice and lungs and blowing your device up. Of course, if you have a regulated device that can deliver extreme power and has safeguards, you can go all out with every other variable in sub-ohming and coil building and enjoy a markedly lower risk of blowing anything up, and you basically have a huge top end even if you never need it -- you have a buffer.

Like he says, it's not my cup of tea and I get the feeling most cloud chasers aren't really ending some battle with smoking but just pulling silly stunts, but I am getting into RDAs myself and enjoy the 1.3 ohm range currently, unregulated, because my Version 1 ProVari is paranoid about anything I attach to it under 1.5.
 
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Ay Dee Jay

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Ryedan said it better in terms of the "buffer" -- you might never run it at 100W but it's there if you need it or screw something up...and the device is going to be beefy enough to protect itself from pretty high-current shorts. I don't think they're "only" for stunt vaping and don't mean to besmirch them, or even the idea of stunt vaping, they're just high end "let me tweak everything" beastly gadgets that seem to verge into awkward size territory at high power levels with parallel batteries. Everyone has their quirks and judgments when it comes to vaping and I've slowly started to see how much you can control in terms of a cool, dense vape at high power. In another six months I'll have one probably :D
 

dr g

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30 watts wouldn't be enough for me as I wouldn't want to run the mod at its highest setting all the time. 50 watts is what I would probably go for.

This is really not a thing. It might apply to mechs where if you run a battery into burst it's not good to do it all the time. But on a properly made regulated mod, it's just fine to run it at its max power all the time.
 

Shootist

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I'm almost ashamed to be asking this because I've been vaping so long, and I tried posting it to the new comers section where it probably belongs, but anyway...

You topic header, Title, is Benefits of 30+ watt devices. The short answer is.


There isn't any benefit to them unless you plan on using atomizer coils below 1 ohm. What is called Sub-Ohming. Coils in the .8 ohms and below resistances.

There may be a slight benefit for coils in the 1 to 1.3 ohm range but only because most standard regulated battery devices won't fire coils below 1.3 ohms or there abouts.

Otherwise it is just a waste of your money as you will never use above the 15 watts most standard mods deliver.

As to box mods I personally don't care for them although I've never personally used one (I've never used one because I don't care for them. To big and bulky IMHO).

I am not a Sub-Ohmer. Never plan on being a Sub-Ohmer. See no reason to even try Sub-Ohming. I like the vape I get with my standard battery devices and my standard manufactured coils for the manufactured clearomizers I own and the coils I build for the Kayfun's I have. I even like the vape I get from the Halo G6 batteries and cartomizers I still use every day.

Currently vaping on a Provari with KF and a 1.4 ohm coil wicked with cotton. Flavor is great, vapor production is good. I switch off to a Vamo and a Innokin iTaste VV V3 with a Kayfun on the Vamo and a Aspire ET-S tank on the iTaste. And then I'll pick up a G6 battery and vape on that. All different juices in each.
 

Ryedan

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This is really not a thing. It might apply to mechs where if you run a battery into burst it's not good to do it all the time. But on a properly made regulated mod, it's just fine to run it at its max power all the time.

I agree dr g, but I don't know how well the chips and enclosures are designed. I have read the DNA chips sometimes fail. Considering these things are not designed for mission critical applications I prefer to have a little headroom for my everyday vape.

It also likely gives me the ability to pulse out shorts in a Genisis atty which would be nice if I didn't have a mech mod to use for that.
 

Giraut

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- Benefits of 30W devices: I don't know, I've never needed remotely that much. But to each his own.

- Benefits of box mods: I like the shape in my hand. The go-go button always ends up where I expect it, without having to rotate the device. Also, the models I own tend to be shorter than round devices, and I like short mods. Other than that, I can't see any obvious benefit. So again, to each his own.
 

tj99959

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    You can pulse out a short on a Provari (3.5 amp limit), there is no need of a DNA30 to do that.
    You can choose a RDA design that will work the same at 2 ohms as others work at 1 ohm, there is no need of a DNA30 to do that either.
    You can go beyond 30 watts with a mechanical if that's your bag, so in end the DNA30 is just another way to do most of the same things we do with other devices.

    For me, I just can't justify $270 for a Hanna, or ZNA to just do the same thing I'm doing with a $35 Caravela clone. (or my 4 year old Mako)
     

    Ryedan

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    There isn't any benefit to them unless you plan on using atomizer coils below 1 ohm. What is called Sub-Ohming. Coils in the .8 ohms and below resistances.

    There may be a slight benefit for coils in the 1 to 1.3 ohm range but only because most standard regulated battery devices won't fire coils below 1.3 ohms or there abouts.

    Check this out Shootist: 1.6 ohm 28g microcoil on the cana at 30 watts.

    There are a lot of different ways to get a quality vape. Posts like that one are what make me think about getting a high power regulated mod to try out.
     

    GeorgeWachsmuth

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    OK...I actually have a couple of 30 watt box mods. Benefits:

    1. Versatility. I can run anything .6 ohms and above. Use my RDA for a couple of vapes, then throw on my 1.6 to 1.8 ohm Kayfun..drop the power and enjoy..And I definitely prefer it above 4.2 volts.

    2. Performance. The power delivered to my atty is the same on my first vape as the vape I take 6 hours later. As the battery declines in power I still get the same power regardless.

    3. Battery life. My battery lasts a lot longer than it does in a mech...a lot longer.

    4. Vaping satisfaction. Can I run my 1.1 or 1.2 ohm atty below 20 watts? Yes....but I will tell you, I like it better above 21 watts. Its a fuller, denser vape..warmer...more flavor and a little more throat hit. And its not a slight improvement...it is significant.

    5. Form Factor. I actually like the box shape.
     

    Bigflyrodder

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    Yup, what they said. It's about being able to drive a subohm build harder and more smoothly if that makes sense. I can put something very sensible like a .5ohm dual coil build on one of my mechs and it will be satisfying, at least until the voltage noticably drops off. I can then replace the battery and get another half hour or so before I notice it again. Another option is to put that same RDA on my Duke and, even when set mid-range, that will give me bigger/fuller/more flavorful vapor and it will stay that way for hours and that's with a box mod with no regulation. A DNA device makes that same experience much more consistant.

    I'd never tell anyone that they "had to have one" but they perform extremely well for what they do.
     

    Bigflyrodder

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    OK...I actually have a couple of 30 watt box mods. Benefits:

    1. Versatility. I can run anything .6 ohms and above. Use my RDA for a couple of vapes, then throw on my 1.6 to 1.8 ohm Kayfun..drop the power and enjoy..And I definitely prefer it above 4.2 volts.

    2. Performance. The power delivered to my atty is the same on my first vape as the vape I take 6 hours later. As the battery declines in power I still get the same power regardless.

    3. Battery life. My battery lasts a lot longer than it does in a mech...a lot longer.

    4. Vaping satisfaction. Can I run my 1.1 or 1.2 ohm atty below 20 watts? Yes....but I will tell you, I like it better above 21 watts. Its a fuller, denser vape..warmer...more flavor and a little more throat hit. And its not a slight improvement...it is significant.

    5. Form Factor. I actually like the box shape.

    Dang George, why didn't you post that sooner so I wouldn't have wasted my time with my post? lol... well said.
     
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    mightymen

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    No you can't
    I've been using Vamo that goes up to 6 volts and 15 watts for over a year and started out with three pen style devices that I still have. I was very happy with these guys until they came out with the next big thing DNA and like everyone else I had to have one, I needed a screen that was larger and easier to view like the old Vamo V2, came across a sale and picked up a Sigelei 30 watt at a great price I wasn't expect much from it. Going on two weeks now started vaping at 2.5, 2.0 1.8 1.4 ohms and found out that I like .7 ohms around 12-17 watts. I never vape below a 1.4 ohms before and if this is what I've been missing out on all along then yes it was a good move for me.

    What I like about DNA is I get a steady regulated wattage (smooth vape from start to finish) that gives a better overall flavor and more enjoyable experience, more clouds and larger screen for viewing. What ever tank I pick will work with my new DNA, I have more control now and can go from .5 ohms up to 30 ohms in a second. Overall if you want or need a device why not get a better one for a few dollars more though I wouldn't spend $150.00 and up on one if I'm happy with a $40.00 vamo or something like it.

    My biggest reason for getting a DNA device was I was looking to get a device with a larger screen anyway because my eyes are not what they were before and for $25.00 more, I got the DNA 30 with a larger screen and a bonus with overall flavor improvement and now can go down to .5 ohms.
     

    Shootist

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    Check this out Shootist: 1.6 ohm 28g microcoil on the cana at 30 watts.

    There are a lot of different ways to get a quality vape. Posts like that one are what make me think about getting a high power regulated mod to try out.

    No Thanks. If I turn my Provari or my Vamo's or even the iTaste VV or even the Spinner II up past 4 volts with any ohm coil I make or use, manufactured coil, I don't like the Vape.

    I am of the belief my experiences are the norm in this regard. So it is only a very small segment of people vaping that actually like High Watts with standard resistance coils, 1.3 to 2+ ohms.

    As for an earlier post from you about pulsing out a short on a Provari-DNA 30. I don't need a DNA 30 because I don't use coils below 1.4 ohms. Again I think this is the Norm for a very large part of the vaping community.

    Also I see no reason to have to Pulse out a Short. I don't have shorts in my coil building and wicking. I can check all that before I close up the atomizer and or use a Ohms Checker.
    I don't understand why anyone would have a dead short in a coil build. If that is a common occurrence for someone that person might want to think about giving up coil/atomizer building and go back to manufactured devices and coils.

    Just Sayin.
     

    dr g

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    I agree dr g, but I don't know how well the chips and enclosures are designed. I have read the DNA chips sometimes fail. Considering these things are not designed for mission critical applications I prefer to have a little headroom for my everyday vape.

    The enclosure really doesn't make an inherent difference, and DNA chips do not fail based on power level. It's as likely to fail at 15w as 30w.
     

    Firestorm

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    I primarily use and collect mechanical mods. I do have a Provari but I mostly use it when building or dry burning coils. I really wasn't interested in box mods, but I did recently pick up a 30W box mod. I mostly use it with RDAs at home and I have found that I actually do like it. I build my RDAs at 1.0ohms and my Provari only fires them at very low voltage. I've been vaping on my box mod at 30w and I like how sturdy it is when I set it down (although I find it too bulky to carry around with me as I prefer a small mechanical with an 18350 battery). I don't think that one vaping device is better than another as I believe that it all comes down to personal preference and there is room for all of them as a means to not smoke combustibles. The main benefit to me is that I can use my existing low but not sub-ohm builds at high power levels that tastes really good with some of my juice.
     

    FinchX

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    Wow.... lol. I really appreciate the quick flood of information everyone. I now understand the purpose behind these devices.

    After being told about their usage though, I think I'm in agreement with Shootist though, I can't really see the need to try out sub-ohming now that I know what it is and does.

    All of my hardware is in the 1.8-3.2 ohm range, and even in a month when I order my first kayfun I don't see myself building coils that would be any lower than around 1.4 or 1.5

    That pretty much just leaves me with the curiosity about a box mod similar to the MVP 2, (vv/vw) but that would utilize my 18650 batteries... If such a device exists. Obviously I don't need a high watt device. Something under $100 (since I'm not even sure if I'll like the feel of one) that allows for vv/vw and preferably will take an 18650 battery. I have a ton of them and really dislike devices you have to actually plug in to recharge because I'm such a heavy vaper.
     
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