Benefits of 30+W devices and box mods?

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lasttango

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Hello friend... excuse my forwardness here.

sounds like something such as a Provari would be great for you... or an mvp... vamo etc......

I also recently acquired a "pocket box" fro vaprlife. they are just $60... and a well-enough made/safe vv device... the ower: jeso is the one who originally introduced the fixed 5v mod years ago: The Joker...
One thing about the Pocketbox is it only uses 15270 batts - which aren't the most easily available...
http://www.vaprlife.com/The-POCKET-BOX_p_140.html

I have a dna 20 and 30 - they work better if you're building coils etc... though my provari and pocket box work great with my Kayfun...
 
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FinchX

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Hello friend... excuse my forwardness here.

sounds like something such as a Provari would be great for you... or an mvp... vamo etc......

I also recently acquired a "pocket box" fro vaprlife. they are just $60... and a well-enough made/safe vv device... the ower: jeso is the one who originally introduced the fixed 5v mod years ago: The Joker...
One thing about the Pocketbox is it only uses 15270 batts - which aren't the most easily available...
http://www.vaprlife.com/The-POCKET-BOX_p_140.html

I have a dna 20 and 30 - they work better if you're building coils etc... though my provari and pocket box work great with my Kayfun...

It's funny you should say that because I own a first gen Provari (buying a new one in two weeks cause mine has some issues) as well as a VAMO 2, and a Lavatube v2. Like I said, after being told what these high watt mods are for I personally don't have any use for one.

Thanks for the link. That would be exactly what I'm looking for if it just took different batteries. I've got a dozen 18650s and I even have four 18350s for my VAMO 2 if I take the extender piece out.
 

Ryedan

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No Thanks. If I turn my Provari or my Vamo's or even the iTaste VV or even the Spinner II up past 4 volts with any ohm coil I make or use, manufactured coil, I don't like the Vape.

I am of the belief my experiences are the norm in this regard. So it is only a very small segment of people vaping that actually like High Watts with standard resistance coils, 1.3 to 2+ ohms.

As for an earlier post from you about pulsing out a short on a Provari-DNA 30. I don't need a DNA 30 because I don't use coils below 1.4 ohms. Again I think this is the Norm for a very large part of the vaping community.

It's great that you've found what you like Shootist. There are so many ways to vape almost everyone can find something that works for them.

I agree low power vaping is the norm and I suspect the higher you go the fewer people you'll find doing it. Actually I think cigalikes and eGos type systems are the norm. I don't however let that affect how I vape ;)

Also I see no reason to have to Pulse out a Short. I don't have shorts in my coil building and wicking. I can check all that before I close up the atomizer and or use a Ohms Checker.
I don't understand why anyone would have a dead short in a coil build. If that is a common occurrence for someone that person might want to think about giving up coil/atomizer building and go back to manufactured devices and coils.

LOL, if I had never tried a Genisis atty with SS mesh I would probably never have had shorts to deal with. They don't dead short and are quite easy to get rid of, though they will sometimes come back to haunt you if you don't do it right the first time. I'm vaping one now at about 25 watts in rotation with my Reo. It's a very clean vape with tons of flavor and vapor and the the wick will stay in there for a month at least with only regular dry burnings required. Not quite as aggressive as the dual coil Cyclone on the Reo, but a very nice vape. The same juice mixed the same way tastes different in each of these devices and I appreciate them both.

I get the feeling you don't actually have any experience with higher power vaping or attys like the Genisis. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

Vape on :)
 
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Ryedan

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The enclosure really doesn't make an inherent difference, and DNA chips do not fail based on power level. It's as likely to fail at 15w as 30w.

I thought there could be a heat issue that the enclosure could have influence on. Thanks dr g, I'll certainly keep this in mind when I start looking into these devices :thumb:
 

Ryedan

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Wow.... lol. I really appreciate the quick flood of information everyone. I now understand the purpose behind these devices.

After being told about their usage though, I think I'm in agreement with Shootist though, I can't really see the need to try out sub-ohming now that I know what it is and does.

Cudos on checking things out FinchX. I don't use that type of mod so I can't help much. I did a quick search on Google for 'box mod' and got a lot of hits, but none I saw fit your criteria for price. They must be out there and it will be interesting to see what everyone comes up with.

Best of luck with it :thumb:
 

FinchX

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Cudos on checking things out FinchX. I don't use that type of mod so I can't help much. I did a quick search on Google for 'box mod' and got a lot of hits, but none I saw fit your criteria for price. They must be out there and it will be interesting to see what everyone comes up with.

Best of luck with it :thumb:

A user in another thread recommended the innokin VTR box mod. I watched the Busardo review of it, and even though it does meet many of my criteria, seems to have a lot of drawbacks as well.

The device was pretty much designed to specifically use (or so it seems) the iClear30s. Even comes with one already attached. The other problem, according to the video anyway, yes it DOES take 18650s but flat tops only, where as all I've got are button tops. If I'm wrong there, please someone correct me.

Other than that it's a very heavy unit and actually looks rather awkward to use. After looking through several sites, using google, looking up suggestions here, and watching numerous video reviews, I believe I'll put that urge to try out box mods back in the cupboard and stick to the style I'm used to.
 

FinchX

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Side note, I tried explaining using higher watts for sub-ohming to a friend (thanks to everyone's help here) and I think I confused them more than I informed them LOL! But I personally understand it, I just need to find my own way of explaining it.

Note on that though, this is a friend who doesn't even use vv/vw devices. Her husband has one, and despite my attempts to explain its usage (standard 15w mod) he just doesn't listen... So instead I relay the info to her so SHE can adjust the settings for him but she's got no real interest in learning either sadly.
 

ukeman

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I started on regulated mods when the Provari first came out late '09.
I'm not a tech type and other than safety concerns, my aim is to have the "best" (for me) vape experience available.

When RBA's came out around 2010, it was mostly genesis, and sub ohms started filtering into the equation and I switched to strictly mechanical devices.
I spent a good year with Geni's before switching to RDA's which give me more of what I want.
Basically I choose sub ohms for the volume of vapor and quick response; but flavor has always been top priority for me, and given the right wicking and air, I find it the ultimate vape.
I also chain vape, like a fiend; 3 to 5mg nic juice.

Back to the OP, anything under .6 ohms - a chain vaper will go through lots of battery each day.
I tend to the mid sub ohms range (.4 to .7) with my various atomizer designs, and I'm not after the max clouds that some setups provide with .1+ to .3 ohms.
Even so, I can go through 4 to 6 18650 IMR batt changes a day easily; and thats not counting the sub ohm Reo's I keep in my vehicles; they are awesome btw.

I recently picked up a couple of 100w box mods (Raptor chip) that are my main devices today; double 18650 high amp batts. I tend to set them at 4v. Its such a luxury to have a consistent vape all day (and night).

In my experience vaping has come full circle from Provari with its low amp, to mech's and back to high amp regulated boxes.
 

FinchX

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For me personally the battery usage is yet another deal breaker. It wouldn't be a problem, I have plenty of 18650s laying around that I keep charged.

Simply, when I bought my first mod, a Provari with the extender cap for 18650s, I was blown away at their battery life as opposed to the non adjustable batteries that charge with a USB connection hooked to the wall.
 

VaPreis

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No Thanks. If I turn my Provari or my Vamo's or even the iTaste VV or even the Spinner II up past 4 volts with any ohm coil I make or use, manufactured coil, I don't like the Vape.

That is on the coils you make to run on your Provari, Vamo, or iTaste VV. In terms of the DNA30, I find it's best suited for getting "sub ohm" style performance from higher resistance coils. The 1.6Ω coil I'm currently using on the DNA30 is 12 wraps of 26ga at 2.2mm and I run it at 20-25 watts. It is massive. The vapor is not hot, and it is not burnt. Your devices don't have the current capability to warm up a coil like that effectively and on a mech it would simply fizzle.

I am of the belief my experiences are the norm in this regard. So it is only a very small segment of people vaping that actually like High Watts with standard resistance coils, 1.3 to 2+ ohms.

Perhaps the norm for people whose experience is limited to low wattage devices.

As for an earlier post from you about pulsing out a short on a Provari-DNA 30. I don't need a DNA 30 because I don't use coils below 1.4 ohms. Again I think this is the Norm for a very large part of the vaping community.

Also I see no reason to have to Pulse out a Short. I don't have shorts in my coil building and wicking. I can check all that before I close up the atomizer and or use a Ohms Checker.
I don't understand why anyone would have a dead short in a coil build. If that is a common occurrence for someone that person might want to think about giving up coil/atomizer building and go back to manufactured devices and coils.

Just Sayin.

Then you've never built a proper genesis style atomizer using mesh or a microcoil for that matter.
 

CloudsinCrowds

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To the op.
For me at least the thing that is so nice about regulated mods that have a 10amp or more limit is the versatlity. I can twist a kayfun at 1.3 onto to my okr box mod i can also twist a .6 ohm rda on there and blow a decent cloud.
And the box form factor is great.
Everything has been covered im just repeating whats been said.
Rated for 10 amps and 60watts at .6
 

Completely Average

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No Thanks. If I turn my Provari or my Vamo's or even the iTaste VV or even the Spinner II up past 4 volts with any ohm coil I make or use, manufactured coil, I don't like the Vape.

Well, that all depends on what type of coil you make.


This is 30 gauge Kanthal twisted wire, built in a 1.4ohm chimney coil.

IMG_1120.jpg


Anything less than 12 watts and it won't even produce vapor.
At 15 watts it just starts working.
At 19.5 watts it produces vapor and flavor similar to subohm builds without the extreme heating of subohming.

You would probably really like it. The amount of surface area on the coil allows it to produce HUGE amounts of vapor. I'm doing mouth to lung hits and exhaling what looks like a straight lung hit from my Aerotank.

Do most people do this? Of course not. But you wanted to know what the allure of a 30watt device was. For me, a 30watt mod allows me to build high ohm coils that are specifically designed for high watt mods. That coil simply would not work on a 15watt mod nor a mech mod. You could max the voltage out on your Provari and it wouldn't even turn the coil red.
 

Completely Average

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Sometimes I think people forget what ecig mods are.

They are batteries. Nothing more.

Regulate mods are batteries that can output a selected voltage.
Mech mods are batteries that output the voltage of the battery.

That's ALL they are.

A 30watt mod is the exact same thing as a 15watt or 11watt mod, it only has a higher range of power adjustments. It can still work at the lower power just like other mods, it just has a higher maximum setting.



Now, when you approach this thread from that perspective what you have is someone with a $200+ battery asking why anyone would want a $70 battery that is twice as powerful.
 

tj99959

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    Sometimes I think people forget what ecig mods are.

    They are batteries. Nothing more.

    Regulate mods are batteries that can output a selected voltage.
    Mech mods are batteries that output the voltage of the battery.

    That's ALL they are.

    A 30watt mod is the exact same thing as a 15watt or 11watt mod, it only has a higher range of power adjustments. It can still work at the lower power just like other mods, it just has a higher maximum setting.



    Now, when you approach this thread from that perspective what you have is someone with a $200+ battery asking why anyone would want a $70 $279 battery that is twice as powerful.

    There, fixed that for ya.

    Key question:
    Do you need (or will use) that added power? Some will, some won't. So it's a question with no right answer.
    For those that don't need that much power a $45 Kick-2 is a better choice, (15 watt) because it regulates down as well as up.
     
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    Completely Average

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    HecticEnergy

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    I think if you are using factory coils there is no need for a 30w device.
    I went to rebuilding and got a SmokTech SiD, after starting with egos. It was good for a while, but I wanted to play with some lower ohm builds and dual coils, so I got a Hana clone (for around 120). As it turns out, I prefer the box mod style. I also like the display on the DNA devices, not an obtrusive click menu, and weird codes. I'm having a lot of fun with rebuildables though, so it's a hobby at this point.
    As bursardo says, its a journey, not everyone has the same path. As long as you are off the cigarettes, do what works and makes you happy. As long as your being safe, there is no wrong way to vape!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     

    tj99959

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