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If you want a cheap mod that is actually decent Tc, wattage, ects... I would suggest a Smok T priv.. Usually Smok makes .... but the t priv is actually built well. It's actually tougher zinc alloy instead of cheap aluminum or plastic casing. Which because of its design, it's actually completely surrounded by its metal frame. The screen is on top which actually cuts down on having it banged around as much as typical side screens.. They only like 40 for the mod.. 220w.. Check out djlv on YouTube he give it a good rating. Only Smok I'd recommend but it's rugged n beefy..
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I have and had (haha) a bunch of mods. I don't think I have a single one where everything works and it's totally solid. Even my little single battery favorite (Sigelei Spark/Minibook) loses the battery door magnets just after you open the box.
I require a tank (as in steel tracks/etc), and I don't care how heavy it is. Ya know, always train with extra weight. Silicon, sheet metal, pop-rivets and epoxy are my friends. You should see my electric chainsaw, it's a frankenbeast.
That Aspire Speeder was pretty nice, and it's working again. Press fit 510 connection. How will that work if you drop it? All the force when it lands on the tank forces it loose.
To me, it seems that if you want a tough mod, you have to modify it yourself each time it breaks.
I have a mountain bike headlight, and it's amazingly bright. I've dropped it, crashed, it's been wet and covered in mud. It pops off the handlebars and makes a nice flashlight. It's spent hundreds of hours bouncing around in a pocket for use as a flashlight. I wish they could change the firmware and epoxy on a 510 connector, that thing would be the stuff. Oh, that's the same life all my mods get too!
I require a tank (as in steel tracks/etc), and I don't care how heavy it is. Ya know, always train with extra weight. Silicon, sheet metal, pop-rivets and epoxy are my friends. You should see my electric chainsaw, it's a frankenbeast.
That Aspire Speeder was pretty nice, and it's working again. Press fit 510 connection. How will that work if you drop it? All the force when it lands on the tank forces it loose.
To me, it seems that if you want a tough mod, you have to modify it yourself each time it breaks.
I have a mountain bike headlight, and it's amazingly bright. I've dropped it, crashed, it's been wet and covered in mud. It pops off the handlebars and makes a nice flashlight. It's spent hundreds of hours bouncing around in a pocket for use as a flashlight. I wish they could change the firmware and epoxy on a 510 connector, that thing would be the stuff. Oh, that's the same life all my mods get too!
Mostly from the table of elements. And General physics
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Yeah i dont think you can find many duel 18650s that are heavier then the tpriv. I have been through so many mods its sickening. None of these tc box mods are built to last long. They are like iphones. meant by design to only last a couple years tops so they keep us comin back.. Lol
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Zinc alloy is more commonly known as “pot metal”. It’s chosen for low melting point, low cost, and low shrinkage. All other characteristics including corrosion, break resistance, toxicity, and wear, are not considered. There is a reason pot metal is always painted. I personally consider aluminum to be a vastly superior metal for mods
@bombastinator You missed an important one, it's also very nice on the molds used in casting. I don't ever recall any metal actually breaking during normal misuse though (excluding the Aspire Speeder, but it's working again). They have all seemed to be fine in that regard. Shiny stainless or Aluminum is always nicer for keeping the looks up over time though.
In my experience, the number one killer of mods is cheap buttons that fail, bad materials for contacts (mechs) and juice spills on the electronics.
I think juice/liquid spills are the number one killer and one that I will focus one in making my mods a little more bulletproof.
In my experience, the number one killer of mods is cheap buttons that fail, bad materials for contacts (mechs) and juice spills on the electronics.
I think juice/liquid spills are the number one killer and one that I will focus one in making my mods a little more bulletproof.
If you're looking for reliability, I suggest something that uses an authentic DNA board. They're going to be more expensive because of patents by Evolv. However, I think they are worth the price. They are more reliable, energy efficient, and accurate than generic chipsets that most manufacturers use.
I use a JAC Vapour series B DNA 75W. I couldn't be happier with it. I like it so much that I bought another one as a Christmas gift for my son. I get a full day's use with a single Samsung 30Q 3000mah battery using a sub-ohm tank at 30 - 40 watts.
My previous high quality mod was a Provari, but they are no longer in business.
I use a JAC Vapour series B DNA 75W. I couldn't be happier with it. I like it so much that I bought another one as a Christmas gift for my son. I get a full day's use with a single Samsung 30Q 3000mah battery using a sub-ohm tank at 30 - 40 watts.
My previous high quality mod was a Provari, but they are no longer in business.
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Thanks for the lil tip but we all went to grade 3 science.. If you were goin to be in an accident would you rather have a car made of aluminum or actual metal alloys. I'd take the heavier, stronger 1969 Era vehicle over some 2017 lightweight piece of crap in a head on head crash. Any day. There's a reason they're still around. Weight wasn't a concern if you actually have read. And are you actually serious? The day you own a mod long enuf that it actually have corrodes on you!?! Lmao 2nd. Toxicity? Really? Your worried about being poisoned by what? Touching metals? There a 1000 things day to day the average person comes across that are more concerning. Either of those 2 bad points are completely irrelevant. Aluminum is tinfoil junk. It dints, scratches n tarnishes instantly. Which is also why it's usually painted on mods..
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I viewed that as falling under under low melting point and low shrinkage. It means there’s basically no freeze out with pot metal. You need few if any sprues and the metal will cast in very thin sheets. It’s basically as close to plastic as metal gets working wise.
I have to disagree. I have a Segelei Fuchai 213 Plus mod made of anodized aluminum and polycarbonate plastic. There is no paint. It is far from tinfoil junk. It is resistant to dents and scratches. Probably my most tank-like mod I own, and I've had more than a few.
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Wow they do metallurgy in the third grade now? and to think I had to go to college. Anyway you may have failed it. Aluminum IS a metal. And yes I would much rather have an aluminum car that would actually bend an protect me rather than a car so weak and brittle that it couldn’t even hold itself upright, and would crack like plaster if struck.
According to the IIHS modern cars are very safe. I hit a wall doing 50 mph in my 2005 Grand Am, I didn't have one scratch on me. Aluminium is an element btw not an alloy.
Yes and no. Aluminum Al is an element, but pure aluminum is too soft to be useful for most things. Generally you only see it in high voltage cabling these days. The most common aluminum is an alloy originally named duraluminum which was invented just prior to World War Two. It contains some copper and other things iirc. When they talk about aluminum being stronger than steel weight for weight they’re talking about duraluminum or a modern variant rather than pure alumninum
A true good quality mod, is slowly becoming a unicorn 
Sure the DNA is a good quality Chip! But A lot of DNA mods today are assembled in China They are very poorly assembled, shoddy soldering, sub standard wiring. In short not built to last.
I'm sorry to say, in todays "Best Price" market, the only way your getting a real good quality mod, is to build it your self.
The people have spoken! No one wanted to pay several hundred dollars for a mod, most of the better mod making (American) companies have gone out of business The days of a mod lasting many years are gone
Sure the DNA is a good quality Chip! But A lot of DNA mods today are assembled in China They are very poorly assembled, shoddy soldering, sub standard wiring. In short not built to last.I'm sorry to say, in todays "Best Price" market, the only way your getting a real good quality mod, is to build it your self.
The people have spoken! No one wanted to pay several hundred dollars for a mod, most of the better mod making (American) companies have gone out of business
The days of a mod lasting many years are gone
@Steamer861 That's what I was thinking, and what I do in a way. I don't build a mod from scratch, but I just fix stuff that breaks and improve it. But you have to start from a good point, not with a spring-loaded contraption that is impossible to reassemble. (Smoke R200 for example.)
Zinc alloy is by far the most common material regulated mods these days are made of. And aluminium is usually regarded as a premium material, and is arguably tougher.
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