Ok few last questions, what is a mechanical? Is that the same as a mod? And last what are some dangers of this?
Best techniques for most vapor? As in LOADS of vapor.
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A mechanical is amod. The danger is that there are no safeguards in place to prevent a short, battery over discharging, or a battery venting/exploding that are generally found in variable voltage/wattage mods.
A mechanical mod is basically a device that completes the electrical current circuit and provides energy to your atomizer; that's it.
If all this is new to you, you should start with a variable voltage/wattage mod before graduating to a mechanical mod. This way you can hone your wick building skills without risking anything going wrong.
A variable voltage/wattage device will give you an error on the screen if you have a short. In a mechanical, the same scenario will result in your battery rapidly discharging resulting in your battery getting hot very quickly, expanding, and possibly venting/leaking and worst case exploding. This progression will not stop until you break the circuit. Either by unscrewing the atty or removing the battery, that will be difficult to do as you are playing "hot potato" and panicking.
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just fyi,
here's a link to a thread on the K100 ... some are using it with the igo-L.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/386895-kamry-k100-3.html#post9325288
I'd use at least a 18500 IMR batt or an 18650, to be on the safer side. These are telescope; meaning you can slide the extension up or down to change batt size.
I' wouldn't get a kit. just the bare K100.
here's a link to a thread on the K100 ... some are using it with the igo-L.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/386895-kamry-k100-3.html#post9325288
I'd use at least a 18500 IMR batt or an 18650, to be on the safer side. These are telescope; meaning you can slide the extension up or down to change batt size.
I' wouldn't get a kit. just the bare K100.
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JIGG that link isn't opening for me ...
here's a short and non tech oriented primer:
mechanical is actually an older form of vaping device... sort of... before VV ever came out.
Mechanical simply means no variable voltage, no regulating of the voltage (even if not vv- like an eGo batt which will fry if the atomizer resistance is too low)... just straight power to the atomizer with no wires or electronics in between.
Some non VV are not mechanical like Silver Bullet, ... that has some wires or electronics between the batt and the atomizer.
For super vapor (and flavor if you set it up right) using sub 1.0 Ohms, you must have a strictly "mechanical" device so it won't shut down (or self destruct) if resistance is lower than a set point...
*A mechanical is whatever voltage the battery has ...from 4.2 fresh to whatever as it wears down... you vape until it wears down to not producing good vapor... you need to switch in a fresh batt.
But like some are saying you can get good vapor from regulated vv and non vv devices that are not "mechanical"... just not a "trick" or "wow factor" as super low resistance.... (under 1.0 Ohms).
*K 100 is mechanical... its cheap... but it is mechanical and will get you some fun with RBA/RDA without shutting down at low resistance.
It is not "high end" meaning its contacts are not optimized for best conduction of voltage to the atomizer....
High end mechanicals like the Poldiac, Precise +, Gus, CHi You etc... have contacts that are more conductive.
Some are taking cheap mechanicals and just using them as is, or lightly sanding down the contacts.... you have to know what you are doing there... to improve the voltage.
Must be because of the censoring done for name. Its from h-o-o-s-i-e-r vapes
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What the others have said is absolutely true. This stuff really should be considered *extreme* vaping. I can't stress this enough: There are ZERO safeties in a true "mechanical" mod... at least the ones with wires would probably melt a wire before it blew up. I wouldn't want to be anywhere close by if someone decided to test that theory though. I had a broken half-charged 650mah eGo go thermal in my hands once while I was trying to fix it and it scared me into rock solid respect. You can't just buy a setup like this because it's inherently *dangerous*... in a worst case scenario a stainless steel mech mod with a high mah battery in it is potentially a pipe bomb... the only difference is the explosive inside. This is also the reason that most non-mech devices have a low resistance limit, usually around 1.2 ohms. I don't know if 1.2 is *much* safer than 0.9, etc. but it IS safer.
That photo is of the *bottom* of my Sigelei #8. It's a surprisingly well built device, for the money, the tubes are made out of relatively thick stainless steel. The bottom cap, with the pictured vent holes drilled in it, is made out of much thinner, chromed brass and is the weakest point in it's construction. This is done *on purpose*! It's so if a worst case scenario was ever to occur the force of any explosion would blow out the *bottom* of the tube, away from your face. I'm very comfortable using mine but there are some very good reasons why you rarely (if ever) hear of these devices being recommended to new members!
Welcome to ECF siddious_999.
I have some concerns, judging from the questions you are asking, about whether you are sufficiently advanced, as a vaper, to move to the 'next step' of the rebuildable atomizer (RBA). I don't wish to be condescending, but 'blue foam' is a thing from 2009-10 and very much "yesterday's tech" as it was meant to be used with cartridge/atomizer combinations. You ask "what is a mechanical" and what "volts they are" - fundamental queries.
While I appreciate you coming here to seek knowledge, it seems, IMHO, you may be trying to run before you can walk. If extreme vapor is your goal, for now, then practise DIY (using VG heavy blends), low resistance cartos in tanks and a a VV/VW device like the Vamo - get to know the interaction between PG/VG ratios (and their effect on throat hit, flavor and vapor production), cartomizer coil resistance and the voltage/wattage being used to heat the coils.
You will be surprised at what results may be had on a simple, low-cost set up and what versatility may be offered.
I have some concerns, judging from the questions you are asking, about whether you are sufficiently advanced, as a vaper, to move to the 'next step' of the rebuildable atomizer (RBA). I don't wish to be condescending, but 'blue foam' is a thing from 2009-10 and very much "yesterday's tech" as it was meant to be used with cartridge/atomizer combinations. You ask "what is a mechanical" and what "volts they are" - fundamental queries.
While I appreciate you coming here to seek knowledge, it seems, IMHO, you may be trying to run before you can walk. If extreme vapor is your goal, for now, then practise DIY (using VG heavy blends), low resistance cartos in tanks and a a VV/VW device like the Vamo - get to know the interaction between PG/VG ratios (and their effect on throat hit, flavor and vapor production), cartomizer coil resistance and the voltage/wattage being used to heat the coils.
You will be surprised at what results may be had on a simple, low-cost set up and what versatility may be offered.
The slower the inhale, The more vapor you get. If you can slowly inhale for about 4-6 seconds, you should have plenty of vapor, depending on your MG / VG ratio.
For big clouds run a mech mod with a sub ohm dual coil setup with 2mm holes for each coil, high VG or 100% VG juice. I have tried a quad coil...it was really intense. There is a guy on here who did an octocoil, I forget his username atm but his YouTube channel is ieatbeanerz. Check out Vapelyfe on YouTube also. Before you attempt any of this I recommend you learn the limits of your batteries...safety first.
Dual coil on a properly setup Oddysseus or clone. Game over. Simple to get it at .8 or so ohms - and the vape is epic. Go to youtube - and you will see
sidious_999
Take a deep breath.
Buy this
It will work on a vision spinner or ego twist.
IT will allow you to make HUGE clouds of some of the most flavorful vapor you have ever had.
Take the path of least resistance. Cheap (-$7.00 off with "BT804").
Good luck
Have fun
Take a deep breath.
Buy this
It will work on a vision spinner or ego twist.
IT will allow you to make HUGE clouds of some of the most flavorful vapor you have ever had.
Take the path of least resistance. Cheap (-$7.00 off with "BT804").
Good luck
Have fun
I just did my first head rebuild using Ribbon kanthal wire - much more vape at the same resistance compared to the stock vivi and kanger heads I had been using (the one I built is 2.6 ohms using the 0.3mmx0.1mm wire which is similar to 32 gauge round for impedance and still cranks out vapor). Yummy. It makes more contact with the wick. My juice is getting sucked up at a much greater rate though. I want to say it is at least 50% more vape if not double.
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