Best VV/VW in the sub $120 category

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Robmidi

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My $0.02 worth: sigelei 20 watt. Got one several days ago and am blown away! A Provari would not be my choice. I have sigelei Zmax V5's and a 20 watt. Then for (heaven help me) backup, some C-Twists and a couple of V2's. The tilt actuated change of wattage is no big deal. Even those unable to program the clocks on their VCRs will learn it easily. You can A) Turn it on and off; and B) Raise or lower the wattage. It's rugged, and stainless. My wife had a SID and it turned black wherever there were threads, and didn't clean up nicely like any stainless mod should. Since I'm my wife's "mechanic", I vote for stainless always. Also, if you already use devices that use 18490's, 18650's, you probably have the chargers and extra batteries. I want a Seven-22, but don't use that type of battery and would have to get those and a compatible charger.
I put a Protank Aero with a 2.5 ohm coil in it on the Sigelei 20 watt and produced enough "fog" I could hire myself out on Halloween for special effects!
 

edyle

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I like the idea of the Hana mod charging the battery, but I also like the idea of having removable batteries that I can use one while the other charges. The Hana clone is cheaper, but I can have 2-3 batteries with the Sigelei. I don't really see myself going over the 20watts of the Sigelei. I do like the looks of the Sigelei more than the Hana. I think that just made up my mind.... Now to just wait for payday.

You can replace the battery in the Hana mod; the usb charge is just a convenient option; the evic also has the usb charging option.
 

edyle

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It takes all of 2 minutes to master.

When in vaping mode:

Click the button 5 times to go to menu mode.

Click the button once to go to the set wattage menu, tilt left or right depending on how you want to adjust it and click. Tilt the device again and you're ready to vape.

It's very intuitive and works just fine.

Do you have to do the tilt left/right to change the volts/watts or is it just an option?



==edit==
or maybe by using the tilt, you don't have to wait 5 seconds to continue ?
 
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blueGrassTubb

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Do you have to do the tilt left/right to change the volts/watts or is it just an option?



==edit==
or maybe by using the tilt, you don't have to wait 5 seconds to continue ?

You have to use the tilt function. But it is very intuitive and easy to use.

When you find your desired wattage, you click it once and tilt it again and BAM! you're back in vaping mode.
 

edyle

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You have to use the tilt function. But it is very intuitive and easy to use.

When you find your desired wattage, you click it once and tilt it again and BAM! you're back in vaping mode.

Aha; I think I'm finaly understanding now; so the tilting and turning doesn't get accidentally activated on it's own... then; it only checks for the tilt as a part of the menu function ie you have to get into the menu's first.

Yeah, I can see that as a usefull improvement for the one button system; it eliminates the 5 second delay that is usually used as the code for selecting an option.

Thanks
 

blueGrassTubb

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Aha; I think I'm finaly understanding now; so the tilting and turning doesn't get accidentally activated on it's own... then; it only checks for the tilt as a part of the menu function ie you have to get into the menu's first.

Yeah, I can see that as a usefull improvement for the one button system; it eliminates the 5 second delay that is usually used as the code for selecting an option.

Thanks



Correct. You have to actively go into the settings menu by clicking the fire button 5 times.

Once you click it 5 times you're in the System menu. If you tilt it in this menu, you turn the device off. "Byebye"

If you click it again (rather than tilting) you're in the wattage adjustment menu. Tilt left to go down, right to go up. Click fire button to set (which also brings you to the exit menu), then tilt to return. To vape mode.

You will not accidentally engage the menu. You need to navigate there deliberately. The tilt function only changes specific settings once you've clicked your way in to the menu system.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

p.opus

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true but Provari and reo isnt in his price range

Very true.... Why one would want to spend $120.00 with no warranty or a warranty that is almost impossible redeem, is puzzling to me.

When I buy my Chinese mods, I buy them only from a web vendor or B&M that I trust, or I buy them so cheap that I have no expectation of a warranty (like an MVP2 for $40.00 instead of the $70.00 MSRP.)

Sigelei has an "advertised" warranty of 1 year for the 20W and now 3 years for the Zmax v5. Though I have heard no stories on people being able to successfully get warranty support directly from any of the Chinese companies.

ProVari's and ReoMods have great build quality and great support. Which is one of the reasons why you pay more than $120.00 for them.
 

PaulBHC

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I don't own a Provari but if you are going to spend over $100 you might as well get one. Or a REO. Plenty of threads about failures and problems with lesser mods and mechs. I like my $40 MVP for consistency and no rattlesnake effect. But when I can spend more money, it will be cheap 20-30w clone or a Provari.

For those that missed my first post before the one that was quoted.
 

p.opus

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Because more than $120 is a no-go? Is it really hard to imagine that someone doesn't want to/can't spend $200+ for a Provari?

No It's really hard to imagine why some people keep misquoting the true price of a Provari. A brand new Provari starts at $159.00 with free shipping, not $200.00 or $200.00+. You can't include the cost of the batteries or charger as a minus because you need to do the same for a Sigelei as well, so. If you are going to quote the price of a ProVari, you might as well do it accurately.

I also noticed you mentioned ProVari in your reply, but never mentioned REO which was my other suggested Mod. Does your hatred only extend to ProVari's. I wonder why?

I believe my post was about why anyone would want to spend $120.00 on a mod that has no meaningful warranty or support. Is it my fault that Reo Mods and ProVape are the only two companies that have long term reputations of support and reliability?

When I'm spending $40.00 on a device I kind of expect it to be a throw away device, but when I'm paying 4 times that amount I expect a robust support and warranty program to go with that. Has anyone had any experience with redeeming a straight to manufacturers warranty service request with Sigelei, Innokin, Smok, Joytech? No???

I guess my question is this. If you are going to spend $120.00 doesn't it make more sense to spend an extra $30.00 and get a REO which is dang near indestructible and can be kicked in it to make it VW? Or perhaps spend an extra $40.00 will get you a ProVari which also has fantastic build quality and support?

Throw your money where ever you want to but If I'm throwing down $120.00 it's not going to be down on a Mod that has less than 60 days out in the field, I don't care how many people review it....
 

jjordan

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My Provari has no rattlesnake effect..and I love it I just got it out of the classifieds and the thing looks barely used! I am currently vaping "bubble gum" in it lol I love my MVP's so much I own three of them..seriously I do and they are well under $120. I got two for under $50.00 one on eBay and one here in the classifieds for $20.00. It is getting a j wrap of pink carbon fiber after I get the sticker residue off of it from the previous stickers that were on it one being a dude with mustache and I don't know what the other one was because all that was there was sticker residue lol! I also got a Sigelei V Max which I also got in the classifieds for $30.00 get verified and go to the classifieds and do some shopping! :)
 

yzer

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The Sigelei Zmax telescopic V3 and V5 are hard to beat if you want 3-15W and can be purchased from US vendors for under $50 if you know where to look. Much FUD is tossed about regarding the rattlesnake sound. I hear the rattlesnake sound from a 2.0 ohm carto in a carto tank but not from a 3.0 ohm carto. The rattlesnake is just a sound and it has no effect of vaping that I can tell other than the sound. If I put on a pair of Sennheiser closed headphones while vaping I don't hear any sound at all from the atomizer (not even hiss) and I don't detect any pulsing at all from the so-called "rattlesnake effect."

Anyway, I don't think the OP is looking for a Sigelei V3, V5 or a Provari. The OP is looking for a 20-watt APV. ;)

43081499.jpg
 
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p.opus

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The Sigelei Zmax telescopic V3 and V5 are hard to beat if you want 3-15W and can be purchased from US vendors for under $50 if you know where to look. Much FUD is tossed about regarding the rattlesnake sound. I hear the rattlesnake sound from a 2.0 ohm carto in a carto tank but not from a 3.0 ohm carto. The rattlesnake is just a sound and it has no effect of vaping that I can tell other than the sound. If I put on a pair of Sennheiser closed headphones while vaping I don't hear any sound at all from the atomizer (not even hiss) and I don't detect any pulsing at all from the so-called "rattlesnake effect."

Anyway, I don't think the OP is looking for a Sigelei V3, V5 or a Provari. The OP is looking for a 20-watt APV. ;)

43081499.jpg

The OP was looking for the best VV/VW mod in the $120 price range. He mentioned the Sigelei 20 Watt and the Hana Modz DNA Clone as ones he was looking at.

Yzer, I am probably one of the few ProVari owners who agree with you on Rattlesnaking. I couldn't really tell any difference between my Zmax V3 and my ProVari.

My biggest beef with the Zmax was that it just started misfiring or not firing at the correct voltage/wattage. This seemed to be more prevalent on a 1.6 ohm coil on a Kayfun.

You of all people are an expert at coaxing more life out of the Zmax than anyone I know. But unless the Sigelei return process has become easier, I'd wait on either one of the devices until they got a little more time under their belts.

I'd probably go with a VTR or Innokin 134 simply because they have more time and both of them seem really well built and have had more time on the market.
 

blueGrassTubb

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No It's really hard to imagine why some people keep misquoting the true price of a Provari. A brand new Provari starts at $159.00 with free shipping, not $200.00 or $200.00+. You can't include the cost of the batteries or charger as a minus because you need to do the same for a Sigelei as well, so. If you are going to quote the price of a ProVari, you might as well do it accurately.

I also noticed you mentioned ProVari in your reply, but never mentioned REO which was my other suggested Mod. Does your hatred only extend to ProVari's. I wonder why?

I believe my post was about why anyone would want to spend $120.00 on a mod that has no meaningful warranty or support. Is it my fault that Reo Mods and ProVape are the only two companies that have long term reputations of support and reliability?

When I'm spending $40.00 on a device I kind of expect it to be a throw away device, but when I'm paying 4 times that amount I expect a robust support and warranty program to go with that. Has anyone had any experience with redeeming a straight to manufacturers warranty service request with Sigelei, Innokin, Smok, Joytech? No???

I guess my question is this. If you are going to spend $120.00 doesn't it make more sense to spend an extra $30.00 and get a REO which is dang near indestructible and can be kicked in it to make it VW? Or perhaps spend an extra $40.00 will get you a ProVari which also has fantastic build quality and support?

Throw your money where ever you want to but If I'm throwing down $120.00 it's not going to be down on a Mod that has less than 60 days out in the field, I don't care how many people review it....

I have no hatred of Provari. I've never even seen one. I'm sure they're a fine vaporizer.

Just the smugness of Provari zealots who question the buying decisions of others who seek specifically to buy something less expensive than a Provari.
 

blueGrassTubb

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The rattlesnake is just a sound and it has no effect of vaping that I can tell other than the sound.

Yes it does.

The PWM is sending pulses of current to the atomizer rather than a constant stream. When you set a PWM MOD at 10W (as an example), you're not getting a steady 10W, but the average of the peaks and valleys which make up the pulses is 10W. That means that with a 33hz PWM MOD, you're getting flashes of current that are far higher than 10W, and lulls that are far below it. It's a simulation of a 10W current, not a 10W current.

It's why I can vape an atomizer at much higher wattages on a mech or a non-PWM regulated MOD like my Sigelei 20W than I can on something like my iTaste 134 mini. On the iTaste 134 mini, things burn at 9W that I can comfortably vape at 15W on a non-PWM regulated MOD.
 

yzer

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The OP was looking for the best VV/VW mod in the $120 price range. He mentioned the Sigelei 20 Watt and the Hana Modz DNA Clone as ones he was looking at.

Yzer, I am probably one of the few ProVari owners who agree with you on Rattlesnaking. I couldn't really tell any difference between my Zmax V3 and my ProVari.

My biggest beef with the Zmax was that it just started misfiring or not firing at the correct voltage/wattage. This seemed to be more prevalent on a 1.6 ohm coil on a Kayfun.

You of all people are an expert at coaxing more life out of the Zmax than anyone I know. But unless the Sigelei return process has become easier, I'd wait on either one of the devices until they got a little more time under their belts.

I'd probably go with a VTR or Innokin 134 simply because they have more time and both of them seem really well built and have had more time on the market.
With any Chinese APV factory repairs just aren't going to happen. That's a given. My oldest Sigelei V3 is over a year old and still going strong without repairs. That said every APV is going to need repair eventually given enough use and time. The weakest component on the Sigeleis is the switch. The same is probably true of the Provari as well as these are the only electrical components on these rigs that have moving parts. Other component failures are extremely rare. I haven't done repairs on my Sigeleis yet. They don't need it. I ordered ten tactile switches that are sealed and rated for 1,000,000 clicks. I figure these switches will make my V3s and V5 darned near immortal. Ordered these for $10 and change last week from an electronics supplier. I know how to handle a 12-watt soldering pencil.
 
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