BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[Quigsworth]

...like I said before... This part took me WAY longer to make than expected. I did not use a vise and do not have a mill... This took me about 2 hours...

Geo, believe me when I say I feel your pain...been there, done that...and "when" you get a mill and you play around with it for the first little while and realize that what you did there is maybe a 5 min. job...you'll cry a little bit, then you'll laugh (like a Bond villain )

Building a Zero type mod is on my list, they're cool looking and I've got some ideas...I'll be watching this with interest

 

[Steamer861]

Well this is embarrassing by the standards of the moders in this thread Keep in mind I only have basic tools like a drill, dremel & a soldering iron
I repurposed a FT box and made a dna 30 BF'er I still have to make a squonk hole, not easy to make a perfect hole with a dremel
It's nothing special but it's a regulated BF'er, it works and I made it

 

[Quigsworth]

Well done Steamer, looks pretty good, minimal tools or not...do yourself a favour, get some run time on it, make sure everything works then put a little protection on that DNA...juice is a DNA killer.

Turbo is the resident expert on what to use, maybe he'll chime in (curious what he suggests myself), but I used liquid electrical tape on my DNA Woodvil and it's been trouble free confused

Just a suggestion, carving a Reo type squonk (rectanglish) can be tough to get it to look good, if you have a good 1/2" bit, just go that (unless you've got crazy sausage fingers) , round is easy ...maybe even do a thru & thru like I've done on a couple mods, it's kinda cool to have this little seethru juice porthole through the mod

Add: or pick up a step bit...you can decent ones for cheap these days, super handy

 

[DavidOH]

Hi Guys

Well, its a start. This will likely take me a long time. I am in no hurry and am taking my time, enjoying the journey.
Here are some progress pics of a DNA 40 squonker. Will look like a cross between a zero and a sunbox when complete.. I hope.
Here is the spline hole locations marked:
View attachment 421262

Here is the spine after center drilling (spotting)
View attachment 421264

And the spine machined with a slot. I didn't show the backside, but I had to shallow out the holes for the tact switches with a 3/8 end mill on the back.
View attachment 421268

like I said before... This part took me WAY longer to make than expected. I did not use a vise and do not have a mill... This took me about 2 hours.

Thanks
Geo

Well I'd say that was fast. It would have taken me 4 hours.

 

[DavidOH]

That looks great Steamer.

 

[CaptSteve]

Well this is embarrassing by the standards of the moders in this thread Keep in mind I only have basic tools like a drill, dremel & a soldering iron
I repurposed a FT box and made a DNA 30 BF'er I still have to make a squonk hole, not easy to make a perfect hole with a dremel
It's nothing special but it's a regulated BF'er, it works and I made it

Great job Steamer, as we've said many times before this is proof that you don't need fancy tools to make a great looking mod. Well done

I fully agree with Quigs about the squonk hole and if I may also suggest if you do intend to do it with the dremel then I suggest you mark out your hole, then remove most material with the dremel and finish the hole around the mark you made with a hand file because as Quigs pointed out you can't get precision with the dremel freehand.

Congrats it looks like a great mod

PS do you have the feed tube cut short in the bottle because I can't see it. If so you won't be able to squonk the juice unless the tube is all the way at the bottom of the bottle

 

[CaptSteve]

Hi Guys

Well, its a start. This will likely take me a long time. I am in no hurry and am taking my time, enjoying the journey.
Here are some progress pics of a DNA 40 squonker. Will look like a cross between a zero and a sunbox when complete.. I hope.
Here is the spline hole locations marked:
View attachment 421262

Here is the spine after center drilling (spotting)
View attachment 421264

And the spine machined with a slot. I didn't show the backside, but I had to shallow out the holes for the tact switches with a 3/8 end mill on the back.
View attachment 421268

like I said before... This part took me WAY longer to make than expected. I did not use a vise and do not have a mill... This took me about 2 hours.

Thanks
Geo

Yeah I've been there too Geo but remember time is your friend. If you don't rush you can achieve anything

 

[Steamer861]

Thanks CaptSteve The file is a good idea, Will do
The squonk hose is all the way down I guess it's against the back of the bottle in the photo
I'm going to do some research and water proof the chip some how
They say the tools make the man, But were theres a will theres a way

Great job Steamer, as we've said many times before this is proof that you don't need fancy tools to make a great looking mod. Well done

I fully agree with Quigs about the squonk hole and if I may also suggest if you do intend to do it with the dremel then I suggest you mark out your hole, then remove most material with the dremel and finish the hole around the mark you made with a hand file because as Quigs pointed out you can't get precision with the dremel freehand.

Congrats it looks like a great mod

PS do you have the feed tube cut short in the bottle because I can't see it. If so you won't be able to squonk the juice unless the tube is all the way at the bottom of the bottle

 

[CaptSteve]

Thanks CaptSteve The file is a good idea, Will do
The squonk hose is all the way down I guess it's against the back of the bottle in the photo
I'm going to do some research and water proof the chip some how
They say the tools make the man, But were theres a will theres a way

For waterproofing Turbo's your man, he has a DNA-40 submarine mod

But were theres a will theres a way

That is so so true

 

[CaptSteve]

.........and I believe the saying is "the tools don't make the man"

 

[turbocad6]

I used liquid electrical tape, brush it on and build it up. I'm sure there are many other things that would do the job just as well but I like the liquid tape because it's pretty much a thick liquid that brushes on easily and becomes a plastic coating when cured

 

[holycrap]

hey steamer, I used a step bit to put a 1/2 inch hole in mine. Turns out my fingers are pretty big but my local vape shop had the next size up step bit and drilled it for me for free. Thanks razer vapes in jonesboro ar but that is what I did if it helps any at all.

Nice job I like that a lot

 

[Steamer861]

Nice looking mod HC. Nice Idea, only thing is the back door is vented with long straight slots, what makes that even worse is the hole will have to be square no rounded corners
So I,m stuck with the dermal and the file. If I had a solid piece of aluminium I would use a drill bit for sure

hey steamer, I used a step bit to put a 1/2 inch hole in mine. Turns out my fingers are pretty big but my local vape shop had the next size up step bit and drilled it for me for free. Thanks razer vapes in jonesboro ar but that is what I did if it helps any at all.

Nice job I like that a lot

 

[rhelton]

well all component check out perfect . started new ..resoldered everything and forgot to use a resister from pin 1 to pin 3 ...
what do you know its working perfect 3 to 6.2 volts out.........without a resister ..weird so why is it sopose to be in there at all ??
leave it alone , but sure would like to know the reason why.

Sorry I did not get a notice you responded. The resistor for pin 1-3 is so the mod does not autofire, it must just be there as a safety measure if yours is working ok. Pin 5 is Trim and it calls for a 220ohm resistor and 200 ohm pot. If you have your mod all put together without the resistor on pin 1-3 and its working ok and not autofiring then I would just be mindful that it could happen,

 

[Sonar505]

Hey all Thoroughly enjoying this thread and now finally caught up. So can ask a question that I haven't been able to find a answer for. Recently I made 2 bottom feeder mods and had to convert a couple of RDA's to bottom feed. An Igo w and a mini A6 both dual coil. After drilling Positive pin from the 510 side I went to drill the drain hole on the side of the pin and could not figure out where to put it. I ended up on the Igo w between the pos and neg post. and on the A6 facing out lined up with the pos coil hole.
Afterwards on the A6 I noticed that after Sqounking that I seemed to need to tilt the addy to feed the coil opposite the drain hole or chance over sqounking. So my question for you all that convert your own RDA Do you have certain orientation that you use or do you just drill straight thru or does it even matter to you

 

[CaptSteve]

Ideally you want the juice feed holes in front of your coils so if your center post isn't free moving mark it with a mark each side before you remove it to drill it so you know where to drill

 

[CaptSteve]

BTW it's not a deal breaker if your holes are off somewhat. They'll still flood the deck just fine

 

[Sonar505]

BTW it's not a deal breaker if your holes are off somewhat. They'll still flood the deck just fine

So you always drill 2 feed/drain holes no matter if your atty is single or dual coil setup? Are you not worried about weakening the pin?

 

[CaptSteve]

A dual coil atty always needs 2 holes otherwise both coils won't receive the same saturation. You must keep your holes to a reasonable size but the centerpost isn't under any stress

From your OP I understood you're talking about a dual coil atty. If it's a single you only need one hole

 

[Quigsworth]

For either single or dual coil RDA's I have a feed/drain (some guys refer to it as the "horizontal") hole on both sides of the center post, if only by virtue of the fact that I just drill it straight through. And as Steve mentioned, I line it up with the coil hole.

Another thing I do is before I remove the pin to horizontal drill, I mark the center pin where it meets the insulator with a scribe and then use that line as the "center" of the horizontal hole. That way, when you press the pin back in, half the hole is visible, the other half is below the insulator height...I then use the same drill bit in a pin vise and hand bore the insulator away to be sure your bottle suction drains the deck.