Studiovap, I was so busy admiring MY reflection in your pics that I missed the square bottle. That is what you call scuffy?
BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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so I got around to fixing my cracked woodie, I winded up dropping it again from a balcony on saturday and it hit the cement from a 15' drop and chipped a corner clean off, luckily I found the chipped off piece and was able to repair that too. I almost gave up looking for the chipped off piece but luckily I found it after going back 3 times and digging for it 
I did it just like I said, flushed it with hot water for a good long time then blew it really dry with compressed air, then soaked it with denatured alcohol and then blew it dry again, all this was while the crack was wedged open. then I wicked CA in there and got the magnet back in and clamped it up... then sanded it flush and re oiled and waxed it, good as new
well there are a few tell tale scars but they don't bother me one bit, this mods been through hell and it still looks fine if you ask me
heres a few pics of the main crack. was cracked all the way through and part way down the back. I didn't get any pics of the corner snapped off but you can clearly see where that was
here it is after its repaired, sanded and ready to be re-oiled and waxed again
and here it is after oiling and waxing, ready for work again, scars are barely visible and she's no worse for the wear
I did it just like I said, flushed it with hot water for a good long time then blew it really dry with compressed air, then soaked it with denatured alcohol and then blew it dry again, all this was while the crack was wedged open. then I wicked CA in there and got the magnet back in and clamped it up... then sanded it flush and re oiled and waxed it, good as new
well there are a few tell tale scars but they don't bother me one bit, this mods been through hell and it still looks fine if you ask me heres a few pics of the main crack. was cracked all the way through and part way down the back. I didn't get any pics of the corner snapped off but you can clearly see where that was
here it is after its repaired, sanded and ready to be re-oiled and waxed again
and here it is after oiling and waxing, ready for work again, scars are barely visible and she's no worse for the wear
My first bottom feeding device. Found the skynet mini adapter randomly, and then modified the mini bully RDA. I'm in love and now I'll be building a gdna 3d printed bottom feeder once the parts get here.
Some shots taken outside for natural light.
Question your buddy or Cappy may be able to answer...I've got another Grand/Veneer mod in the works atm and I want to go polished alum. as well...how are you polishing the alum. without blackening the wood, or are you polishing before (which doesn't make any sense cause how would you re-polish?...
What's the secret?
LOL! Provari -- Useful at last!
My first bottom feeding device. Found the skynet mini adapter randomly, and then modified the mini bully RDA. I'm in love and now I'll be building a gdna 3d printed bottom feeder once the parts get here.
My mate Genosmate (John) is busy getting more than 15 posts right now and will be with us shortly to answer all the questions himself!
Hey now! It's always been useful for me, I usually vape at like 15 watts. But yeah, I had moved onto other devices lately and the zombie provari wasn't getting much use, but now is a different story obviously lol
What was the pin on your Derringer?...was it the copper? or SS? or Brass? or gold plated SS? or China SS?...between the original and the clones, what you get is a box of chocolates
Basically I run the spindle as fast as it will go and use an old juice for lube, it works not bad and it's better than washing WD40 or cutting fluid out of your RDA later...juice it lots to keep it cool, peck it, and clear your shavings lots...
...but if it's a copper pin...pfft, they're just nasty to drill no matter what you do...you're almost better off turning the spindle by hand, it take no effort, plus it'll take forever but you can at least feel the bind when the copper grabs...it's like drilling a glue stick.
Here's one that'll make you go hmmm. bough a blister pack of SS pans from Lowes to make some vented screws, 4 of the 6 in the pack were what I expected, hard SS and broke a bit on one, the last 2 in the same pack the bit went through like s*&t through a goose...how do you have all this faith in SS when the QC is all over the map
home depot SS hardware is pretty low grade, I used to use them for center pins and other stuff but they turn blackish so I'm not too keen on HD SS for juice contact parts anymore... at least it's not magnetic but still it's maybe 303 at best, not surgical grade by a long shot
Hi Folks These are just some quick shots of the super ultra compact 18500 copper and brass squonker I mentioned I might build. Only had a cursory clean and polish so she's a bit grubby.
Sterling silver center post contact leaf spring and negative terminal.
It's small
All did not go exactly to plan, and the switch needs finishing, but here it is.
[/url]SV ultra Mini Squonker by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]
That's some astounding metal work Studio...your grubby is would be my crowing achievement...I can usually tell by the joints how someone built their mod but that??? wow...
home depot SS hardware is pretty low grade, I used to use them for center pins and other stuff but they turn blackish so I'm not too keen on HD SS for juice contact parts anymore... at least it's not magnetic but still it's maybe 303 at best, not surgical grade by a long shot
I was thinking that as I was looking at them in the checkout...and should've known better...I was more amazed that "come on, in the same blister pack?"...
...someone had to say it...notice how I controlled myself?...I'm maturing into a kinder, gentler Quigs.
Painter's masking tape Quigs. I partially polished mine then taped it then did the wood finish and then wet sanded wet with super fine both for the final shine. Once that was done a I did a final buffing
Ahh...that'll teach me for trying to short circuit the process.
I polished the alum. too hard and rounded all my reliefs so unless I re-mill (which I'll do) I won't get that seamless transition. Another thing I do is I have separate polishing wheels, one for metals and one for things that don't make the wheel as black as coal. and I'm paranoid touching alum. to my clean wheel.
I polished the alum. too hard and rounded all my reliefs so unless I re-mill (which I'll do) I won't get that seamless transition. Another thing I do is I have separate polishing wheels, one for metals and one for things that don't make the wheel as black as coal. and I'm paranoid touching alum. to my clean wheel.
What was the pin on your Derringer?...was it the copper? or SS? or Brass? or gold plated SS? or China SS?...between the original and the clones, what you get is a box of chocolates
Basically I run the spindle as fast as it will go and use an old juice for lube, it works not bad and it's better than washing WD40 or cutting fluid out of your RDA later...juice it lots to keep it cool, peck it, and clear your shavings lots...
...but if it's a copper pin...pfft, they're just nasty to drill no matter what you do...you're almost better off turning the spindle by hand, it take no effort, plus it'll take forever but you can at least feel the bind when the copper grabs...it's like drilling a glue stick.
Here's one that'll make you go hmmm. bough a blister pack of SS pans from Lowes to make some vented screws, 4 of the 6 in the pack were what I expected, hard SS and broke a bit on one, the last 2 in the same pack the bit went through like s*&t through a goose...how do you have all this faith in SS when the QC is all over the map
ja it is the pin on the derringer . it is ss . on the srews I used 3\4 ply drilled and tapped it and left it bolted down on the drill press .
holds it perfect in the same spot....but...not so good when things heat up. got to get myselv some alum bar stock to transfer some heat away. used e liquid to lube to works ok . my problem drilling the pins is to secure them better. and turbo mine is slightly magnetic .
ok quigs on the sd speed . which drills titanium or high speed??
just wicked my converted lancia dripping it for now antil my mod is ready ..love it.
ps don't buy a germen can opener ...still laughing
My OCD is kicking my ....... I am sure you guys can relate to this.
So I was talking to my dad this evening (he was a machinist for Outboard Marine Corp for 32 years) and he explained to me a method where I can clamp the bar to my shopsmith main table to do a nicer job of miling the slot and the reverse button clearances.
So, I may just remake that part and start over. Under 7x magnification the edge of the slot is slightly wonky... and I know its there so it hits me like a neon sign.
That, and my holes are like .010 off center. Not sure how that happened. Anyhow, that first piece was just practice I guess.
Thanks
Geo
So I was talking to my dad this evening (he was a machinist for Outboard Marine Corp for 32 years) and he explained to me a method where I can clamp the bar to my shopsmith main table to do a nicer job of miling the slot and the reverse button clearances.
So, I may just remake that part and start over. Under 7x magnification the edge of the slot is slightly wonky... and I know its there so it hits me like a neon sign.
That, and my holes are like .010 off center. Not sure how that happened. Anyhow, that first piece was just practice I guess.
Thanks
Geo
geo I've done finish work for years without fancy tooling. the trick to getting a cut out flawless is to cut slightly smaller, inside the lines, then file and sand to a final edge. no one can cut something out perfect by hand but that doesn't mean you can't make a perfect cut out by hand. I'm sure you can save what you have with a few tiny files and some patience as long as it's not oversized too much already.
when doing it by hand, never try to just cut an opening. start by drilling and milling out most of the center but never touch the outline itself, then work your way towards the edge of the outline with files and then sand paper. you can really get flawless results this way with patience.
when doing it by hand, never try to just cut an opening. start by drilling and milling out most of the center but never touch the outline itself, then work your way towards the edge of the outline with files and then sand paper. you can really get flawless results this way with patience.
sorry steamer it was an idea.
Nice looking mod HC. Nice Idea, only thing is the back door is vented with long straight slots, what makes that even worse is the hole will have to be square no rounded corners
So I,m stuck with the dermal and the file. If I had a solid piece of aluminium I would use a drill bit for sure
Hi Folks These are just some quick shots of the super ultra compact 18500 copper and brass squonker I mentioned I might build. Only had a cursory clean and polish so she's a bit grubby.
Sterling silver center post contact leaf spring and negative terminal.
It's small
All did not go exactly to plan, and the switch needs finishing, but here it is.
[/URL]SV ultra Mini Squonker by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]
OMG!! This is gorgeous! Where do I sign up?!?!
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