Boxer Mod Dual 18650 Yihi 350J

[KTMRider]

Going back to manufacturing...

I got a very rough estimate based on 5000 units at high precision (+/- .005") using ABS plastic. It would cost about $18k for tooling, 2k for production and $750 in materials. Or about $4.25 per unit. Even at 1000 units, it's $19 per unit.

At moderate precision (+/- .01"), it would be $3.30 at 5000, $14.58 at 1000.

I'm going to guess it's about $40+ for 3d printing.

 

[Heespharm]

Well my 510 already crapped out on me after one day... It was reading all over the place... Checked all my soldering and it was solid... Replaced with fat daddy 510 and now it reading exceedingly accurate! Scratched up the crap out of my case but it's working well!


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[smokewell]

A battery life update. 2 new VCT5, 28J, 195C, Subtank mini OCC NI200 coil.
64k Joules on eco mode.

 

[FreeJersey]

Unfortunately, I just found this thread yesterday. I just picked up the M class last week, and will be receiving a Snow Wolf on Monday. Oh well, what's one more...Ordered a pre-built black this morning.

 

[KTMRider]

Well my 510 already crapped out on me after one day... It was reading all over the place... Checked all my soldering and it was solid... Replaced with fat daddy 510 and now it reading exceedingly accurate! Scratched up the crap out of my case but it's working well!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the 510 that comes with the kit isn't a FDV? I hope not, it's a POS.

A battery life update. 2 new VCT5, 28J, 195C, Subtank mini OCC NI200 coil.
64k Joules on eco mode.

LG HE2's 20j, 390°F, standard. Just over 33k.

 

[Heespharm]

So the 510 that comes with the kit isn't a FDV? I hope not, it's a POS.


LG HE2's 20j, 390°F, standard. Just over 33k.

I've had 6 fdv and this doesn't look like them


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[Madnapali]

It shouldn't be that hard to take it out. Just a nut holding it in. You don't have to take the board out.

I figured. I got mine in there so tight though I'm not sure I can spin the plate lol.

 

[Madnapali]

Ginger vaper support told me its a FDV V4 low profile 22mm... Hope so cuz I ordered a much smaller one just for the pin assembly hahaha. If its not correct I'll just order a VT.

 

[smokewell]

I have a VT 510 coming in as well. My Lemo2 won't even fire with the included 510.

 

[DroopyDroors]

It definitely looks like a Fatdaddy V4 low profile 510. But I would say something wonky is going on with the pin and spring. Ive used over 50 of these 510 building boxes and the spring in the ones I got with my 7 Boxers all seem much weeker than the others I have ordered direct. Also you can buy just the inserts from FD for 3.99 a 3 pack.

 

[dannyben]

Is it just the people who did the DIY that have had the 510 issues? Or has anyone who got a completed unit also having issues?

I've built 2 units and yes, the 510 spring could be more springy, but they both work fine and have a nice amount of tension -- reads accurately & have taken all 7 attys I've thrown at it. I used my soldering iron at 650F too. Heating it up hotter I would think could/would cause the metal of the spring to heat and lose the springiness(?).

Obviously, the included 510 is a difficult one to work with (a few posted issues), but i believe the ones who've posted had soldered the pin to the bushing and then re-heated to remove the solder. Maybe that caused the loss of tension?

Regardless, they should probably include a easier to work with 510, as many people, especially the ones not reading here, will get some solder on that bushing and probably need to replace it.

 

[dannyben]

A battery life update. 2 new VCT5, 28J, 195C, Subtank mini OCC NI200 coil.
64k Joules on eco mode.

That sounds on par to what i'm getting too 70K+ with LG HG2's (which have 15% more mAh). Wonder why @KTMRider is achieving much lower?

 

[Madnapali]

My 510 spring was destroyed by torching solder off the bushing. Gonna be a lot more careful this time since my iron doesn't have settings.

Once mines working I'll throw my hat into the ring with battery stats. Also gonna be using LG HG2s. Seems like they'll be amazing batteries and I might have to order more when I replace my 26650s. If I can find a shop that stocks them both at reasonable prices.

 

[smokewell]

I don't believe my issues are related to my soldering skills since the 510 spring was almost too soft for even the pin's weight.
And just an FYI I have more than a decade of soldering electronics experience. Lemons do exist even in the best brands.

 

[KTMRider]

Is it just the people who did the DIY that have had the 510 issues? Or has anyone who got a completed unit also having issues?

I've built 2 units and yes, the 510 spring could be more springy, but they both work fine and have a nice amount of tension -- reads accurately & have taken all 7 attys I've thrown at it. I used my soldering iron at 650F too. Heating it up hotter I would think could/would cause the metal of the spring to heat and lose the springiness(?).

Obviously, the included 510 is a difficult one to work with (a few posted issues), but i believe the ones who've posted had soldered the pin to the bushing and then re-heated to remove the solder. Maybe that caused the loss of tension?

Regardless, they should probably include a easier to work with 510, as many people, especially the ones not reading here, will get some solder on that bushing and probably need to replace it.

That could very well be the reason but the spring is less than half the tension of my VT 510's. Either way, the design isn't very good because the spring will heat up either way. With the VT 510, you thread the cap and spring on the wire you're soldering and then solder the pin to the end of the wire. When installing, slide the cap and spring up to the pin and screw into the 510 connector. The only thing that gets heated is the pin and wire. The only way to screw it up is to forget to thread the cap and spring before soldering the pin and that's an easy fix with no damage anywhere.

That sounds on par to what i'm getting too 70K+ with LG HG2's (which have 15% more mAh). Wonder why @KTMRider is achieving much lower?

I was using standard mode. I pulled the batteries (LG HE2's) and they were at 3.31v and 3.32v at 33.5k joules. I'm testing eco with efest 3100mah batteries but I can tell already that I don't like it. Very weak.

My 510 spring was destroyed by torching solder off the bushing. Gonna be a lot more careful this time since my iron doesn't have settings.

Once mines working I'll throw my hat into the ring with battery stats. Also gonna be using LG HG2s. Seems like they'll be amazing batteries and I might have to order more when I replace my 26650s. If I can find a shop that stocks them both at reasonable prices.

I ordered some Samsung 25r's from amazon (4 for $21.80 shipped). Someone tested them again and said they hold voltages better than LG HE2/4's so it's worth a try. And they were $.15 cheaper than LG HE4's (what I was going to get).

 

[Landman]

Is it just the people who did the DIY that have had the 510 issues? Or has anyone who got a completed unit also having issues?

I've built 2 units and yes, the 510 spring could be more springy, but they both work fine and have a nice amount of tension -- reads accurately & have taken all 7 attys I've thrown at it. I used my soldering iron at 650F too. Heating it up hotter I would think could/would cause the metal of the spring to heat and lose the springiness(?).

Obviously, the included 510 is a difficult one to work with (a few posted issues), but i believe the ones who've posted had soldered the pin to the bushing and then re-heated to remove the solder. Maybe that caused the loss of tension?

Regardless, they should probably include a easier to work with 510, as many people, especially the ones not reading here, will get some solder on that bushing and probably need to replace it.

Used a Hakko FX-888D @625. I tested the pin before starting and it seemed on par spring tension-wise with the FDV I swapped it out with. Now that you mentioned it, I remember when I built the Sagittarius CMLS40 I did have to remove the wire going to the 510 to change the length and when I tried to re-solder it back, the entire internal pin just came apart... it definitely could have been from too much heating.

 

[dannyben]

That could very well be the reason but the spring is less than half the tension of my VT 510's. Either way, the design isn't very good because the spring will heat up either way. With the VT 510, you thread the cap and spring on the wire you're soldering and then solder the pin to the end of the wire. When installing, slide the cap and spring up to the pin and screw into the 510 connector. The only thing that gets heated is the pin and wire. The only way to screw it up is to forget to thread the cap and spring before soldering the pin and that's an easy fix with no damage anywhere.


I was using standard mode. I pulled the batteries (LG HE2's) and they were at 3.31v and 3.32v at 33.5k joules. I'm testing eco with efest 3100mah batteries but I can tell already that I don't like it. Very weak.


I ordered some Samsung 25r's from amazon (4 for $21.80 shipped). Someone tested them again and said they hold voltages better than LG HE2/4's so it's worth a try. And they were $.15 cheaper than LG HE4's (what I was going to get).

Yeah, I'm not a fan of efest myself (who knows what they put under those wraps. I've gotten my 60-70k+ in combos of eco and standard by in high wattage power mode. I'm still having too much fun with the added wattage of the dual batteries to go through a full set of batteries in Joules mode

Those VT 510's sound like the older FDV v3. The v4, this one (?) has the one-piece design. I agree its a flaw. Maybe makes it easier for modders who are building lots each day, but for us who are just putting one together here and there, I'd rather take it apart too and not need to worry.

Is the VT one a low profile? Otherwise you get the raised look like @Landman showed on the last page (just above).

 

[KTMRider]

Yeah, I'm not a fan of efest myself (who knows what they put under those wraps. I've gotten my 60-70k+ in combos of eco and standard by in high wattage power mode. I'm still having too much fun with the added wattage of the dual batteries to go through a full set of batteries in Joules mode

Those VT 510's sound like the older FDV v3. The v4, this one (?) has the one-piece design. I agree its a flaw. Maybe makes it easier for modders who are building lots each day, but for us who are just putting one together here and there, I'd rather take it apart too and not need to worry.

Is the VT one a low profile? Otherwise you get the raised look like @Landman showed on the last page (just above).

I just had some efests laying around for my flashlights. They're labeled 20a but really 6.8a that can burst to 20a. Since I don't vape at high wattages, they're fine for now.

The VT510's have always been low profile. FDV copied them with their v4, IMO.

 

[dannyben]

I just had some efests laying around for my flashlights. They're labeled 20a but really 6.8a that can burst to 20a. Since I don't vape at high wattages, they're fine for now.

The VT510's have always been low profile. FDV copied them with their v4, IMO.

Looks similar to the FDV v3 (pictured below (with my new toy) taken all apart). But that will be the raised look both with just the smaller inside or both tops installed. Post some pics when you get it installed.

 

[Nautilusfan]

My 510 spring was destroyed by torching solder off the bushing. Gonna be a lot more careful this time since my iron doesn't have settings.

Once mines working I'll throw my hat into the ring with battery stats. Also gonna be using LG HG2s. Seems like they'll be amazing batteries and I might have to order more when I replace my 26650s. If I can find a shop that stocks them both at reasonable prices.

Are there any good 2665O's available ATM?