Brand new rba bottom coil tank

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BlueSnake

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Got to say after setting my wick wrapped arond the bottom then insert this thing is great can't believe my tv caremel popcorn hasn't ruined the 1st coil yet never has tasted this good for this long without gunking up.
Does anyone know the size of the tubes i need to know the id(inner diameter) and outer diameter please like to get me some polypropylene tubing for it so i don't have to worry about it cracking.I assume these are the polycarbonate tubes they come with as most are or am i wrong anyone know?

I believe the tube is polypropylene. It shouldn't crack.
 

darkpoet

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I'm wondering if anyone else has a problem with the "floating" post causing a short-circuit? If it's pushed down just a millimeter too much... Damn near exploded my Bolt mod. It was vibrating and humming and the battery spring actually shrunk and discolored. So, after re-coiling... I've been giving it a bit of a thwack to the side to keep it in from short-circuiting... seems to work pretty well.
 

Nepherael

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I'm wondering if anyone else has a problem with the "floating" post causing a short-circuit? If it's pushed down just a millimeter too much... Damn near exploded my Bolt mod. It was vibrating and humming and the battery spring actually shrunk and discolored. So, after re-coiling... I've been giving it a bit of a thwack to the side to keep it in from short-circuiting... seems to work pretty well.

I haven't experienced that. Are you talking about the air draw hole in the center? If so I'm not sure how you're doing your coils but maybe leave just a bit more slack on the legs of the coil so you can pull the coil up and away from that

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Cyrus Vap

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I'm wondering if anyone else has a problem with the "floating" post causing a short-circuit? If it's pushed down just a millimeter too much... Damn near exploded my Bolt mod. It was vibrating and humming and the battery spring actually shrunk and discolored. So, after re-coiling... I've been giving it a bit of a thwack to the side to keep it in from short-circuiting... seems to work pretty well.

one of my posts has always been a little loosey goosey, whenever I build a new coil I have to wiggle it to and fro to find the spot at which it won't short. Once I find it, I don't touch it :

I don't own any mechanicals, but I would highly recommend against setting up any RBA on one without a multimeter check first. If you have something with short circuit protection you have confidence in (e.g. Provari, V/Zmax) use that until you're sure its a steady build

Sorry about the collapsed spring, that sucks :(
 

dodari

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I used a dental pick. Someone used a 1/32 drill. It doesn't need much enlargement. Just a little to improve the airflow will prevent it from flooding with the wicks as they came originally.

Where can I get a metal dental pick? Need to just slightly enlarge air holes on one of mine, the first one works like a champ, the second one I have is very "stuffy" on draw. Wicks are clear of the air tube inside the unit, no problem. Just a tight draw.

Thank you.
 

Jimi D.

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I'm wondering if anyone else has a problem with the "floating" post causing a short-circuit? If it's pushed down just a millimeter too much... Damn near exploded my Bolt mod. It was vibrating and humming and the battery spring actually shrunk and discolored. So, after re-coiling... I've been giving it a bit of a thwack to the side to keep it in from short-circuiting... seems to work pretty well.
Man, that's dangerous. I did notice that positive post is surrounded by a rubber grommet. That could malfunction in time due to excessive heat.

As for poking bigger holes on the connector sides. That could tear the rubber grommet, and cause it to short as well. I hope everyone is using an APV with short circuit protection.

Be safe.
 

darkpoet

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Looking for increased airflow? The cause is the airhole runs through the center post. Try the staple mod. My Bolt was having a lot of trouble before I did it.

Original thread here (lacks pics now Boooo)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-center-conductor-gap-penstyle-atomizers.html

But to summarize... Take an ordinary No. 4 staple (unpressed) and use half to make a kind of V-shape but with little tabs that keep it from getting pushed into the hole too much... looks like _/\_ (the tabs should only be 0.1mm cause you don't want a short-circuit).

Seems a lot easier than widening holes... but...yeah, I'll probably give that a go, too, since the draw still half-tight.

Little airflow problems with my Telescope. I suspect the center connector may not be so flat and straight. Ha.
 

Nepherael

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i've got more juice in the the heating chamber than in the tank, what am i doing wrong? i've got tight draw too, i bored out holes on the bottom with the dental pick, seemed to help a little but still tight. I can see the airholes are clear of wicks

Make sure the wick isn't touching the little hole where the juice drains in. Not the air holes, the little tiny tiny hole the juice drains in from. Mine used to drain the whole reservoir because I didn't keep my wick down off that drain hole. So basically make sure the wick is wrapped around the posts like when you got it.

If it is already then I'm not sure, maybe someone else has a better idea.

While I'm here I was hoping to get some help too. I've used some silica wicks and they tasted so horribly burnt in this thing. I've also had a hard time with cotton. Has anyone tried any form of SS wick with this? I really need some help getting this right because I can't even use it right now.

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mgmrick

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I have had no issues with burnt wicks while using the premade wicks. They are glass fiber slica wicks

Make sure the wick isn't touching the little hole where the juice drains in. Not the air holes, the little tiny tiny hole the juice drains in from. Mine used to drain the whole reservoir because I didn't keep my wick down off that drain hole. So basically make sure the wick is wrapped around the posts like when you got it.

If it is already then I'm not sure, maybe someone else has a better idea.

While I'm here I was hoping to get some help too. I've used some silica wicks and they tasted so horribly burnt in this thing. I've also had a hard time with cotton. Has anyone tried any form of SS wick with this? I really need some help getting this right because I can't even use it right now.

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mgmrick

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2012-10-04_22-58-40_966.jpg

How big are your air holes? This is the size of mine ...zero problems

i've got more juice in the the heating chamber than in the tank, what am i doing wrong? i've got tight draw too, i bored out holes on the bottom with the dental pick, seemed to help a little but still tight. I can see the airholes are clear of wicks
 

Nepherael

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I have had no issues with burnt wicks while using the premade wicks. They are glass fiber slica wicks

We'll my wicks aren't burnt they just taste burnt. I'm not sure if it's that it isn't wicking properly or what. I'm gonna see if I can try a curved SS wick. Basically make it so it wraps around the posts like a normal wick. Maybe with a cotton core also

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taofishdude

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mgmrick, your holes look a little bigger in your pic, but its tough telling. I made sure to wrap the wicks around the posts when i primed and put back together. I think i flooded the bottom by primer puffing while i was trying to test the draw of the thing. I think it will be ok once i refill (as long as i can come to terms with the tight draw and not keep primer puffing!!)
 

mgmrick

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Problem is if draw is too hard it will force too much juice down onto coils. Take bottom end off and dry it out a little and try again

mgmrick, your holes look a little bigger in your pic, but its tough telling. I made sure to wrap the wicks around the posts when i primed and put back together. I think i flooded the bottom by primer puffing while i was trying to test the draw of the thing. I think it will be ok once i refill (as long as i can come to terms with the tight draw and not keep primer puffing!!)
 
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