Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

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KenD

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I think they are stainless steel (not magnetic) not aluminium (way too soft). Diameter is 1.9mm so I guess it's a metric M2 screw?

I've been trying to replace them with magnets but so far my epoxy skills leave something to be desired lol. I think the mixture has to be quite exact.

Do you premix the epoxy (e.g. on a piece of plastic or cardboard) or do you apply both ingredients directly to the magnets/case? I'm certainly no expert when it comes to epoxy, only used it in one project quite recently :), but it worked perfectly when premixing on a separate surface.
 

DejayRezme

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    Do you premix the epoxy (e.g. on a piece of plastic or cardboard) or do you apply both ingredients directly to the magnets/case? I'm certainly no expert when it comes to epoxy, only used it in one project quite recently :), but it worked perfectly when premixing on a separate surface.

    Well I don't know in what I can mix it properly. I need some kind of disposable shot glasses or something. I only need a tiny amount at a time (30 min epoxy).

    I mixed it into a syringe (don't need them for DIY anymore) and mixed it with a needle. What happened I think is that the only epoxy I actually ended up using was in the needle tip and not mixed correctly at all. The stuff I used stayed gooey but the rest in the needle hardened to a rubbery state. So definitely user error but I have yet to find a good way to handle it in correct measurement and mix it properly.
     

    DejayRezme

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    I put 2 equal size drops on a piece of cardboard and mix it with a toothpick apply it with the same toothpick and then discard the cardboard and toothpick
    This is also a good way to see if it mixed properly cause the toothpick will bond to the cardboard :)

    I guess I have been overthinking this lol :)

    But from your comment it does sometimes happen that epoxy doesn't get mixed properly? All my years I have successfully been dodging any kind of mechanical handiwork and now it all catches up with me...
     

    xtwosm0kesx

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    Loctite(i believe) makes an dual syringe epoxy that automixes inside the applicator tube. Only bad thing is it sometimes can be a 'one and done' because the applicator can dry out, even when capped, if it sits for a few days.

    Most Ace type hardware places will have it, think it was like 5-$6 for a tube that will glue a decent amount of stuff.
     

    Steamer861

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    This is the one I use It drys fast and hold good :)
    LoctiteFixmasterPoxyPak.jpg
    [/URL][/IMG]
     

    Visus

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    I think those should be considered single application use. As soon as the resin and hardener touch, you have epoxy and will clog the syringe.

    Doesn't anyone use JB Weld?

    I use jb weld works great, the heavy duty..

    One thing, warned by the guy that made the original puck mods he said, "absolutely no epoxy will last if any e juice is able to get to it." It does by proxy of micro vapors :vapor:...

    Confirmed
    I have a heavy duty jb weld and hot glue mods both a lil over a year old and he was correct, the jb weld has softened in some areas to clay like consistency the hot glue is kinda gooey. I mix it very well b4 use, been using epoxies for long while so it wasn't a mix issue..

    Here's his finding on a no worry lasting epoxy
    Best Epoxy for eCig Mods - EVER! - The PUCK e-Cig Mods
     

    polarbare

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    Finally finished up my DNA40 in a clouper box (basically a fasttech box that got in from elev8 cheap :) ) Had to remove all the internals which were secured with hot glue - pain and suffering, but isopropyl alcohol works wonders.

    Here she is with a rebuilt nautilus coil at .25 ohm - a few scuffs on the case, but they aren't noticeable under normal lighting

    viewFile.html


    Used a varitube 510 connector with a spring loaded pin - had to press out the standard connector, drill the hole out with a 3/8" bit, then tapped with an M10x.5 tap

    viewFile.html


    There should be a special place in hell for the guy from evolve that listed the maximum wire size to use - you would need a magic stripping fairy and have to sacrifice 3 live chickens to get that size wire in the holes in the board. I wound up trimming several stands of each wire to get it in. Next build will be with 20 and 24 gauge wire... One other thing - I'm glad I used High temp insulation wire - the insulation is made out of silicone, and the wire is much more flexible. Don't know if I could have crammed everything in there if I hadn't..

    viewFile.html


    Made my own cradle for the DNA40 so I could use screws to secure it - the plastic screen is from a CD case

    viewFile.html


    The odd shape of the carrier is to index it off the the inside of the case so I could drill and tap the holes for the screws that hold the carrier to the case and have the slot for my LED screen in the right place.

    I wound up milling out the aluminum between the battery and the electronics - I wanted to be able to disassemble the whole thing and harvest parts if I build up something else. No hot glue or epoxy in this build :D
     

    DejayRezme

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    Thanks for all the tips on epoxy. I have JB Kwikweld too but the 5 minutes are a bit too hecktic for me. So I bought a set of 2x100g 30 min epoxy that seemed like a good compromise.


    I use jb weld works great, the heavy duty..

    One thing, warned by the guy that made the original puck mods he said, "absolutely no epoxy will last if any e juice is able to get to it." It does by proxy of micro vapors :vapor:...

    Confirmed
    I have a heavy duty jb weld and hot glue mods both a lil over a year old and he was correct, the jb weld has softened in some areas to clay like consistency the hot glue is kinda gooey. I mix it very well b4 use, been using epoxies for long while so it wasn't a mix issue..

    Here's his finding on a no worry lasting epoxy
    Best Epoxy for eCig Mods - EVER! - The PUCK e-Cig Mods

    The putty like QuikSteel stuff sounds awesome.

    I'm confused how epoxy can "melt" though? At least the quikweld stuff should be good for the temperatures. And what chemical in eliquid could "soften" the epoxy over time?
     

    KTMRider

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    I use jb weld works great, the heavy duty..

    One thing, warned by the guy that made the original puck mods he said, "absolutely no epoxy will last if any e juice is able to get to it." It does by proxy of micro vapors :vapor:...

    Confirmed
    I have a heavy duty jb weld and hot glue mods both a lil over a year old and he was correct, the jb weld has softened in some areas to clay like consistency the hot glue is kinda gooey. I mix it very well b4 use, been using epoxies for long while so it wasn't a mix issue..

    Here's his finding on a no worry lasting epoxy
    Best Epoxy for eCig Mods - EVER! - The PUCK e-Cig Mods

    I've used QuikSteel before (still have a tube) on my motorcycles. I've also used a bunch of JB products (KwikWeld and SteelStik). QuikSteel is easier to use and apply but not quite as good as JB Weld in my experiences. They have the same temp resistances but JB Weld isn't conductive unless you get the steel reinforced versions.

    I have never seen JB Weld become soft. I've used it on motorcycles that sees brake cleaner, gas, and other solvents and chemicals.
     

    kNOT1

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    so I ordered a full size hana dna30 diy enclosure in case my plans for the dna20 enclosure doesnt work out ... and Im wondering .. with the size of this case, why dont I ever see any 26650 modifications on the case? ...the specs say the stock battery holder goes up to 67mm ...so will it work with a 26650 as is? anyone try this? pics? tips? thoughts? ... ive seen a few complaints about the quality of the battery holder that comes with it so im half way expecting to replace it anyways and I'm thinkin .. why not upgrade? :/
     

    KTMRider

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    so I ordered a full size hana dna30 diy enclosure in case my plans for the dna20 enclosure doesnt work out ... and Im wondering .. with the size of this case, why dont I ever see any 26650 modifications on the case? ...the specs say the stock battery holder goes up to 67mm ...so will it work with a 26650 as is? anyone try this? pics? tips? thoughts? ... ive seen a few complaints about the quality of the battery holder that comes with it so im half way expecting to replace it anyways and I'm thinkin .. why not upgrade? :/


    18650 - 18 = 18mm radius or wide, 650 = 65mm long.
    26650 - 26 = 26mm, 650 = 65mm
     

    DejayRezme

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    Hehe no way. The FT enclosure is 26mm thickness on the outside so you won't fit it in. If you don't make some kind of "slits" or something lol.

    Does anyone have a suggestion of what I could use as a thin strip to pull out the battery more easily? I'd like to glue one end to the middle wall so I can pull just on the other end to get the battery out. But I don't know what easy available strip I could use that is durable, won't get fringed and can be glued with epoxy.
     

    kNOT1

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    Oh OK ... Thanks ... And I didn't know that they are named for dimensions.. Seems obvious now that you say it ktm ... So thanks for the extra info... Also... Thats a good idea with the fabric strip dejay... I can't speak with experience with using epoxy on fabric but the only thing I would think wouldn't work so well is cotton ... I would probabaly try something like nylon ...but that's just a guess
     
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