aye but couldn't be arsed - just happy the screen lit up ;-)
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
- Thread starter HOPS
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
aye but couldn't be arsed - just happy the screen lit up ;-)
I've heard that the FT transparent boxes are a bit dangerous. Those switches are not rated for enough DC current (but AC current) so they might fuse and melt your whole setup.
Don't know the specs of those switches but for example:
240v / 1A = 3.7V / 65A
It's the watts that matter... You only need to convert accordingly the specs from one voltage to the other. Now if the spec listed for the switch are something like 120V / 0.5A then at 3.7 you only would have 16A which might be marginal.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
240v / 1A = 3.7V / 65A
It's the watts that matter... You only need to convert accordingly the specs from one voltage to the other. Now if the spec listed for the switch are something like 120V / 0.5A then at 3.7 you only would have 16A which might be marginal.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Yeah but for AC, alternating current. With DC they can fuse with much lower ampere. I'm no expert though.
Finally got the Elev8 'returned' enclosure from the 25th order, minus one ding on a corner (obv factory damage as its properly anodized), the thing is flawless. Stickers still intact on the chip tray cover etc.
Popped in a battery, it fired right up, slapped on an atty and it seems to vape/work fine.
Guess i can't complain about having a working $50 mod for $7.50, though ill probably eventually convert it into a second dna40....
Just starting to finish a FT Hana Clone enclosure I started months ago...been kinda busy.... glad I waited tho as I gonna put in the big screen DNA40 beta...may have to enlarge the screen hole in the enclosure but don't know just yet...the big screen is easier to read for us guys with older eyes
With switches, it's not the watts that matter. Switches are designed and built with max volts, max amps and a duty cycle... each for AC and for DC and often times for the type of load... resistive, lamp, inductive, etc. Just take a look at a dual-rated switch and you should see the AC and DC ratings don't equal the same watts.
Some manufacturers even tell you how to rerate their switches... and I think you will be surprised by the results. As well, DC is more difficult to break/open, so it normally leads to a lesser amp rating on the DC side.
Ummmmm I wouldn't assume that. In some cases, the ratings work out like that, but in many others, they do not
No matter how low of a voltage you are giving it, there is still a maximum current rating before things start melting and/or fusing. It's the voltage that determines how far apart 2 conductors are before arcing occurs.... It's the current that determines how strong of an arc it makes.
When I worked in the product development labs of my current employer working on circuit breaker prototypes, we would test circuit breakers rated at say 800amps at 34,600 volts. The trip curves for breakers would have that breaker tripping within 2 minutes if you fed it double the amp rating (1600a). In order to test safely, we would hit the breaker at 1600 or higher amps, but only at 1v.... It would trip in the same time that it would if it was hit at full rated voltage at the same current. I was also fortunate to get to observe testing at full rated voltage and current of some designs. On our test rigs, 1v/600a sounded like a cap gun when it interrupted. Hitting it with 480v/25,000A in the high power lab, behind 2" ballistic glass, and wearing ear plugs was deafening loud.
But I digress a bit by sharing my experience. Ultimately, with switches, ratings do include volts and amps, but there is a max for both of those for different reasons, so you can't simply multiply and use watts as to know for sure. Best bet would be to contact the OEM of the switch to see if they can offer extended max ratings.
I present to you (and everyone else) a bit of proof regarding how to properly rerate switches as per an OEM. This is from their PDF on the subject. I see this wattage thing all the time, so I can see how it keeps spreading... so long as we learn, all should be well
Note that dropping the voltage by 10 fold has no effect on the amp limit and in no case does the amp limit increase.
Interesting read. Thank you. I guess I stand corrected then although I'm 99% sure I didn't make this up. I have a vague idea of using the above mentioned method as stated on some contact switches from my rc hobby. I guess it probably was specific to that case and not meant to be a general way to rate a switch.I present to you (and everyone else) a bit of proof regarding how to properly rerate switches as per an OEM. This is from their PDF on the subject. I see this wattage thing all the time, so I can see how it keeps spreading... so long as we learn, all should be well
Note that dropping the voltage by 10 fold has no effect on the amp limit and in no case does the amp limit increase.
I apologize if I have mislead someone.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
This is one of the differences I have seen on this forum, and I am sooooo happy for it. Way more often than not, everyone just wants to learn and is happy to get updated info... I know I always am
As far as the idea of switches being rated for wattage... it's very very common, to the extent that I have seen numerous companies talk about this and not just eBay sellers etc, even larger companies. It's sometimes not until you get an FAE involved, that they correct the confusion. Hmmm... what would someone over at Home Depot say
Of course, everything depends on the exact switch design and type too...
As far as the idea of switches being rated for wattage... it's very very common, to the extent that I have seen numerous companies talk about this and not just eBay sellers etc, even larger companies. It's sometimes not until you get an FAE involved, that they correct the confusion. Hmmm... what would someone over at Home Depot say
Of course, everything depends on the exact switch design and type too...
Just got my 3 cloupor boxes. They came in a small Priority mail box with no packaging (loose) like before. 1 of 3 work. The silver is the roughest in shape but seems to work like the previous 2 I have. The orange one constantly fires and there's a burnt electronics smell from inside the box. The black one has a constant "check atomizer" no matter what I put on it.
I need to start ordering some DNA 40's
I need to start ordering some DNA 40's
Just got my 3 cloupor boxes. They came in a small Priority mail box with no packaging (loose) like before. 1 of 3 work. The silver is the roughest in shape but seems to work like the previous 2 I have. The orange one constantly fires and there's a burnt electronics smell from inside the box. The black one has a constant "check atomizer" no matter what I put on it.
I need to start ordering some DNA 40's
Resistance and output are correct out the 'working' one? If so, I'm ticked that I didn't get any that worked right OOB.
Would you hate me if I said yes?
I've been vaping on it for a bit and so far, it will drop .1w every once in a while like my red one but otherwise, it seems to work fine. When it drops .1w, it won't drop any more (at least on the red one) but when it does drop, it's a very rare occurrence.
Would you hate me if I said yes?
I've been vaping on it for a bit and so far, it will drop .1w every once in a while like my red one but otherwise, it seems to work fine. When it drops .1w, it won't drop any more (at least on the red one) but when it does drop, it's a very rare occurrence.
Argh! The next time they are available, I'm sampling that page and writing an app to alert me! So far, I'm just checking multiple times a day
Are you talking mechanical mod or DNA40. The DNA mod is a logic function so the current rating doesn't matter. I only worry about duty cycle. I want a switch that's going to last a while.
Well, the discussion was in relation to how to rerate switches in general but specifically concerned that you shouldn't simply be using the PIE formula,... and even with logic switches I have an opinion
Obviously the current and voltage requirement are tiny when talking about a logic switch, but that's not a good reason to ignore the logic level requirements. My only real concern with these scenarios is that the switch is rated for use at logic levels AND that once you use a dual purpose switch for high current/voltage (IF it's dual rated), you are not supposed to use it for logic levels ever again... but that's only because it may not successfully close the circuit anymore depending on the amount of oxidation that occurred during it's 'previous life'.The life span of the switch is important to me too... but I don't mind switching one out every year or two if it means I can find one I really like the throw on every time I use it
Most of these logic level switches use dome contacts... which very rarely fail in a closed state even after you dent the dome.Anyway... I don't think we are troubled with people buying switches that can handle the total output of their device and then using that to activate a DNAXX or such as often as we have people trying to use an under-rated switch to transfer the full load.
Argh! The next time they are available, I'm sampling that page and writing an app to alert me! So far, I'm just checking multiple times a day
They usually go up around noon on the weekends or 3p or 7p during the week.
If it makes you feel better, I broke the ribbon on the silver one trying to transfer the guts to another box since the silver was so beat up. They use 2 types of glue inside, amber and white/clear. The amber encased half the ribbon wire and wouldn't let go and it ripped.
So... $38 for 2 working and 4 cases with spare parts is still not a bad deal
They usually go up around noon on the weekends or 3p or 7p during the week.
If it makes you feel better, I broke the ribbon on the silver one trying to transfer the guts to another box since the silver was so beat up. They use 2 types of glue inside, amber and white/clear. The amber encased half the ribbon wire and wouldn't let go and it ripped.
So... $38 for 2 working and 4 cases with spare parts is still not a bad deal
I'm going to get a job rebuilding the death star just so I can help the rebels blow it up with you on there!
I ran across a similar issue with one of the ones I tore down... IF you have some keyboard cleaner or such, the hot melt adhesive (or hot glue as I like to call it) gets pretty brittle when really cold... so you can turn your 'air' can upside down and release a bit of the liquid version onto the glue... it should lose a bunch of it's adhesion and release easier. I sat here with tweezers and a scalpel working on one where they basically encased the ribbon in it... but it finally came free. Sadly, this is on a board where they also tried to water-proof it... so I'll have to give the hot air rework station a go at the ribbon. I have already been using the reowork station air to cut through the [what feels like pounds of] hot glue they insisted on using to hold everything together.
I think the big difference between the two type of glue we see is that one set (amber) was put in by the person who actually installed the buttons/etc, and the other (white) was put in after "QC". I have noticed the white glue seems to have been put on at a lower temp and it doesn't seem to be adhered to anything as well as the amber glue. Could you imagine if they had to rework these with them in the same condition we get them in?! The amber could very easily be a different type of glue on purpose, but I still think it just looks burned... like what oozes out of one of my guns if I leave it on all night by accident. "Crazy crafter burns house down after forgetting to turn off his hot glue gun after he bedazzled his vape gear that night, more at 11." I figure the installer isn't using their gun as often, so it burns the glue... meanwhile, "QC" are tearing through these things and their glue stays cooler.
- Status
Similar threads
