Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

[mikepetro]

Not sure if it ever got resolved, but I have found these screws to be a perfect fit for the Hana/Clones:

McMaster-Carr

$4 per 100, Stainless Steel, M2, pitch -.4, 8mm long

 

[Duffloop]

ere - does it matter if you flux and then leave it for a while, and solder later?

seems like sticky stuff?

 

[KTMRider]

Flux prevents oxidation so you can leave it there.

 

[Duffloop]

oops double post

 

[Spiceman1967]

ere - does it matter if you flux and then leave it for a while, and solder later?

seems like sticky stuff?

After I am done soldering, I take an acid brush (http://t.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Acid-Brushes-3-Pack-3071020/100204365) that I have cut down and use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the flux residue.

 

[Duffloop]

is there any reason not to use sellotape to hold the LED in place in that perspex holder ? (you prob can't see it in pic)

the chip will be resting on it (the sellotape) - that a problem?

 

[Duffloop]

Flux prevents oxidation so you can leave it there.

actually i meant how long can you leave it after you apply flux before you solder?

 

[KTMRider]

actually i meant how long can you leave it after you apply flux before you solder?

As long as your little heart desires

 

[Spiceman1967]

As long as your little heart desires

Interesting. Everything I was ever taught about soldering was to remove excess flux as soon as possible because it will cause corrosion and reliability issues. I will admit, the high reliability soldering school the Air Force put me through was in 1989, so not sure if what I was taught is still accurate.

 

[JimmyDB]

actually i meant how long can you leave it after you apply flux before you solder?

Interesting. Everything I was ever taught about soldering was to remove excess flux as soon as possible because it will cause corrosion and reliability issues. I will admit, the high reliability soldering school the Air Force put me through was in 1989, so not sure if what I was taught is still accurate.

Yeah, it all depends on the flux. If you are using highly corrosive stuff like the $2 Goot stuff above... you best get it off immediately There are plenty of flux's out there that never have to be removed though The flux I use, actually has a pleasant odor when heated and doesn't even burn your eyes/nose/throat... not that you should be huffing on flux though... it's generally all bad stuff.

Summary: Check out the instructions from the manufacturer and/or the MSDS.

 

[JimmyDB]

is there any reason not to use sellotape to hold the LED in place in that perspex holder ? (you prob can't see it in pic)

the chip will be resting on it (the sellotape) - that a problem?

I don't see any issue with this...

 

[KTMRider]

Interesting. Everything I was ever taught about soldering was to remove excess flux as soon as possible because it will cause corrosion and reliability issues. I will admit, the high reliability soldering school the Air Force put me through was in 1989, so not sure if what I was taught is still accurate.

I did a little googling because I'm usually wrong about these things and the AF taught you well. I never cleaned flux off any solder joints but I also don't solder circuit boards too often (maybe a handful of times). The general consensus seems to be to clean it with 90% or greater isopropyl alcohol and a stiff brush. Apparently, flux isn't good for circuit boards.


ps. My dad was a fighter pilot for the Korean Air Force and trained with the USAF for the P51 Mustang and F86 Sabre.

 

[Duffloop]

I don't see any issue with this...

thank fook for that ;-)

actually remember some dude using double sided sticky tape.

Doesn't the chip get hot?

 

[tchavei]

Interesting. Everything I was ever taught about soldering was to remove excess flux as soon as possible because it will cause corrosion and reliability issues. I will admit, the high reliability soldering school the Air Force put me through was in 1989, so not sure if what I was taught is still accurate.

It might depend on the Flux. Curiously, a few years ago I ran out of Flux and went to a local electronic store (family business) and the guy sold me some stuff he said was the best he tried in 45 years. I didn't give it much thought but when I first tried it... Wow... When you put the stuff on anything (plated nickel which sucks in terms of adherence for example) and then touch it with the iron, you can actually see the acid melting any oxidation, grease and later the solder grabbing the material like no tomorrow. I still use that Flux after more than 3 years. It's completely white instead of the usual yellow brown but boy does it do the job.

Do you guys know those stranded audio cables where the solder never wants to grab properly? A dab of that Flux and you can see the solder running up the strands through capillary action and plating every single strand.

This Flux I have left days on pieces and no corrosion. It seems to only activate under heat.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[vincom]

It might depend on the Flux. Curiously, a few years ago I ran out of Flux and went to a local electronic store (family business) and the guy sold me some stuff he said was the best he tried in 45 years. I didn't give it much thought but when I first tried it... Wow... When you put the stuff on anything (plated nickel which sucks in terms of adherence for example) and then touch it with the iron, you can actually see the acid melting any oxidation, grease and later the solder grabbing the material like no tomorrow. I still use that Flux after more than 3 years. It's completely white instead of the usual yellow brown but boy does it do the job.

Do you guys know those stranded audio cables where the solder never wants to grab properly? A dab of that Flux and you can see the solder running up the strands through capillary action and plating every single strand.

This Flux I have left days on pieces and no corrosion. It seems to only activate under heat.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

sounds great but who makes it

 

[JimmyDB]

It might depend on the Flux. Curiously, a few years ago I ran out of Flux and went to a local electronic store (family business) and the guy sold me some stuff he said was the best he tried in 45 years. I didn't give it much thought but when I first tried it... Wow... When you put the stuff on anything (plated nickel which sucks in terms of adherence for example) and then touch it with the iron, you can actually see the acid melting any oxidation, grease and later the solder grabbing the material like no tomorrow. I still use that Flux after more than 3 years. It's completely white instead of the usual yellow brown but boy does it do the job.

Do you guys know those stranded audio cables where the solder never wants to grab properly? A dab of that Flux and you can see the solder running up the strands through capillary action and plating every single strand.

This Flux I have left days on pieces and no corrosion. It seems to only activate under heat.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

White? Brazing flux maybe... which does 'activate' at pretty high temps. With electronics I have only ever used flux that was somewhere between yellow to brown in color... but I have no doubt that other colors exist.

 

[KTMRider]

http://www.amazon.com/Solder-Flux-Liquid-2oz-10-4202/dp/B004RIF3BM

 

[Duffloop]

getting there chaps...

that bracket from outa the cloupor made it one helluva lot easier.

 

[MattB101]

It might depend on the Flux. Curiously, a few years ago I ran out of Flux and went to a local electronic store (family business) and the guy sold me some stuff he said was the best he tried in 45 years. I didn't give it much thought but when I first tried it... Wow... When you put the stuff on anything (plated nickel which sucks in terms of adherence for example) and then touch it with the iron, you can actually see the acid melting any oxidation, grease and later the solder grabbing the material like no tomorrow. I still use that Flux after more than 3 years. It's completely white instead of the usual yellow brown but boy does it do the job.

Do you guys know those stranded audio cables where the solder never wants to grab properly? A dab of that Flux and you can see the solder running up the strands through capillary action and plating every single strand.

This Flux I have left days on pieces and no corrosion. It seems to only activate under heat.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Who makes it please. Good tip.

 

[tchavei]

sounds great but who makes it

It's a national company. I can check tomorrow but it will be hard to find. I remember when I read the manufacturer, I thought "wow, we actually do something here and not only tourism" lol.

It's definitely white but not completely opaque... Kinda like vick vapo rub.

I'll check the label in the morning.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk