Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

[KTMRider]

This is making me want to buy a dna 40 now rather than wait for the group buy.

 

[Duffloop]

nearly...

 

[Duffloop]

Do you see what I see...



Cloupor DNA 40 by Duffloop, on Flickr

 

[Duffloop]

Now... How the F do I use it?

 

[KTMRider]

No charging light hole?

Looks great. Now hit the DNA 40 threads to learn how to use it

 

[Duffloop]

No charging light hole?

Looks great. Now hit the DNA 40 threads to learn how to use it

Ta - and thanks for the help to all!

Heh - I thought about the little hole but TBH I charge me batteries in an i2 and - the little micro card is working from the cheapo reject - green and red glow - I mean them things cost more than the rejects we got!

this thing goes down to 1 W !!


gotta say temperature limit is bloody brilliant so far

 

[Duffloop]

Thanks again to all you helpful peeps in EC world!

 

[KTMRider]

Ta - and thanks for the help to all!

Heh - I thought about the little hole but TBH I charge me batteries in an i2 and - the little micro card is working from the cheapo reject - green and red glow - I mean them things cost more than the rejects we got!

this thing goes down to 1 W !!


gotta say temperature limit is bloody brilliant so far

The DNA 40 is awesome. I can't put my rDNA 40 down. I use the other 2 hana clones once in a while but keep going back to the rDNA. I have 7 RBA's and 3 of them have Ni200 builds in them. My current one is 28g Ni200 spaced coil @.13Ω and 16.5w in a EHPro KFL+ v2. I vaped it dry and the rayon was a bit brown under the coil from the residue and no burnt rayon. One of the main reasons I want to get another DNA 40 going is to use the 2 RBA's I have with Ni200.

 

[Aal_]

regarding flux, i got one that is liquid. Does it matter if liquid or paste?

 

[mackman]

You can just use rosin core solder

 

[Aal_]

You can just use rosin core solder

I do, but thought more flux wouldnt hurt

 

[tchavei]

Mine is paste

 

[mikepetro]

I like the Flux Pens myself:

SRA #312 Soldering Flux Pen Low-Solids, No-Clean 10ml - Refillable - - Amazon.com

 

[tater66]

everything is here except the cradles (which have shipped). Can't wait to be able to do this build! I ordered two of the clone enclosures from elev8, and one of them is working fine as a DNA-30, so all is not lost ;-)

thanks for all the info folks!

 

[Spiceman1967]

I did a little googling because I'm usually wrong about these things and the AF taught you well. I never cleaned flux off any solder joints but I also don't solder circuit boards too often (maybe a handful of times). The general consensus seems to be to clean it with 90% or greater isopropyl alcohol and a stiff brush. Apparently, flux isn't good for circuit boards.


ps. My dad was a fighter pilot for the Korean Air Force and trained with the USAF for the P51 Mustang and F86 Sabre.

Thanks KTM. That is awesome your dad was a fighter pilot. My hats off to him and all those that have served.

 

[Duffloop]

I like the Flux Pens myself:

SRA #312 Soldering Flux Pen Low-Solids, No-Clean 10ml - Refillable - - Amazon.com

I used a pen too...

Flux Dispensing Pen | Maplin

not that it made any difference to the quality of my crappy soldering ;-)

 

[DejayRezme]

First, are you using any Flux? It doesn't look like you are. Those blobs happen when there is a big temperature difference between the solder on the wire and the metal contact on the board. Without Flux, the solder doesn't want to run to the board so it blobs up instead of creating a nice cone / pyramid shape.

I've only ever used solder wire with a flux line in the center. Is that enough? I managed to solder my DNA40. I made a mess of it a bit creating a bridge but I cleaned it up. After each solder spot I inspected it with a loupe to make sure the connection is good.

I also soldered from "both sides" so that there is a connection on both sides of the board. Is that necessary or overkill?

Probably I really should get a finer solder tip though.

 

[tchavei]

I've only ever used solder wire with a flux line in the center. Is that enough? I managed to solder my DNA40. I made a mess of it a bit creating a bridge but I cleaned it up. After each solder spot I inspected it with a loupe to make sure the connection is good.

I also soldered from "both sides" so that there is a connection on both sides of the board. Is that necessary or overkill?

Probably I really should get a finer solder tip though.

Personally I don't appreciate rosin core wires so I can't help you much but I guess I use way more paste than what is in a core.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[Steamer861]

New enclosures at FT for the SX300 chip wonder if an SX350 will fit in this enclosure?
$22.05 DIY Enclosure Case for SX300 G-Sensor VW APV Box Mod - aluminum alloy / red at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[Duffloop]

New enclosures at FT for the SX300 chip wonder if an SX350 will fit in this enclosure?
$22.05 DIY Enclosure Case for SX300 G-Sensor VW APV Box Mod - aluminum alloy / red at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

not according to Nodus on the discussions:

"it looks to me that they aren't gonna be good for the SX350 as they put the window too low to accommodate the length of the chip and the usb charge board. They made a huge button hole which when used with the switch included will interfere with a fat daddy or varitube 510. If they had left the buttonhole and window out I would snap up a couple of these but alas not to be I guess. "