Did you use a 9.5mm drill for the Varitube? or can you get away with 9mm (3/8)? presume you tapped it?
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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Did you use a 9.5mm drill for the Varitube? or can you get away with 9mm (3/8)? presume you tapped it?
Cool, have to get some. Also learned a valuable lesson working on the DNA40 build. I really need a decent soldering station!
A 15watt iron and a pair of "helping hands" with magnifier just doesn't cut it. That's the nice thing about the SX350 board. Most everything is already soldered to it.
I have been tickled to death with this unit:
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital...41829&sr=8-2&keywords=hakko+soldering+station
Built my own helping hands:
However, one of the tricks I still use extensively is a ceramic plate and tape. Tape the component to the plate, tape the wire to the plate, and solder away.
I use a 40w iron, next one will be a 60. And your right the sx boards are set up nice even the up/down wires are pre installed now.
Your helping hands looks like a octopus
cant go wrong with that one you have plenty of options.
This would be a great start, and holy cow thats cheap!
http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Fea...1417842282&sr=8-12&keywords=soldering+station
http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Fea...1417842282&sr=8-12&keywords=soldering+station
I used a 3/8" bit which is 9.5250mm and tapped the hole with a m10 x .5. Funny, I suggested that they carry the m10 x .5 tap since it's not a very common tap and hard to source. They have taps and drill bits now
I use a 40w iron, next one will be a 60. And your right the sx boards are set up nice even the up/down wires are pre installed now.
Your helping hands looks like a octopus
I think 60w would be too much for electronics unless you're really fast. 40w with the right tip would be just fine. I had an old Ungar 40w with a broken ceramic center so I picked up a Weller 40w kit that came with 3 tips. Works great.
I didnt think about 60w being to hot, I was wanting more heat from my 40 but maybe its a little worn. Ill take back the wanting a 60 and go for 40.
Thanks
Thanks
I got this one from Home Depot (same price):
Weller SP40NKUS 40 Watt LED Soldering Iron Kit, Red/Black - - Amazon.com
I wouldn't trust that $18 no-name soldering iron. I've had good results with Ungar, Weller and Hakka soldering irons. Not sure what happened to Ungar (bought by Weller?).
If you want an inexpensive solder station, I'd recommend this:
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station - Soldering Iron - Amazon.com
Personally, I'd take the 40w kit over the station (and I did).
Hmm. I challenge someone to wrap a solder coil as out of nickel on an atty with a DNA40. Goes up to 40 watt and it's perfectly temperature controlled soldering iron!
The temperature coefficient of nickel is what allows the dna to limit. The temp coefficient of lead/tin solder would very different, you would not have any temperature control, at least nothing remotely accurate. Even if you used nickel wire as a "solder tip" there is not enough mass there to make it effective, not to mention the battery drain.
I'm just kidding. Mostly. Well now I wonder if it could work? I figure that a soldering iron is simply a resistance coil with a soldering tip stuck to it. So replace the resistance wire with nickel / titanium just for heating the solder tip. No clue what to use as an electrical insulator that transmits heat well. If you could make a "soldering atty", snap in a thin soldering tip and use a coil to heat the soldering tip you would have a very nice cordless soldering iron.
Cool, have to get some. Also learned a valuable lesson working on the DNA40 build. I really need a decent soldering station!
If it's just for cleaning out the guts I'd save yourself some dosh and get some isotopyl alchohol (same stuff) or white spirit (i think that seemed to work better than the contact cleaner), with cotton buds.
I used a 3/8" bit which is 9.5250mm and tapped the hole with a m10 x .5. Funny, I suggested that they carry the m10 x .5 tap since it's not a very common tap and hard to source. They have taps and drill bits now
odd but i measured my 3/8 step down drill bit and it came to exactly 9mm - got a 9.5mm drill anyway ;-)
IF you are willing to spend more, this is a great deal. Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station with Chisel Tip Pack
This is what my electronics technicians use in the shop. Actually they use the older version Hakko, but they are amazing stations to work with.
The Weller in this price range is also a great station. Yes a little more cash, but soooooo worth it if you do a lot of solder work.
Thats not a bad price at 40 bucks. That 120 buck station is pretty nice, I wish I could afford one of those maybe someday!
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I had a analog Weller station, it was getting old and needed a new element, picked up the Hakko 888 instead and gosh what a difference. Set the temp low for average jobs with a fine chisel tip, then crank it up with a larger tip for some of the odd jobs like soldering a ground to a chassis or a 510 washer, or (de)soldering those nice big fat Lipos. For $90 it was money WELL spent.
Removing the lugs on Lipo takes a little more heat:
It even handled soldering to a SS Chi You bottle-cap:
Also research replacement tip cost when you shop, some brands are very expensive, Hakko tips can be found quite reasonably.
The Hakko is right at home in my workshop....
Removing the lugs on Lipo takes a little more heat:
It even handled soldering to a SS Chi You bottle-cap:
Also research replacement tip cost when you shop, some brands are very expensive, Hakko tips can be found quite reasonably.
The Hakko is right at home in my workshop....
Agreed, for $90 the Hakko is amazing. The new model looks like a Fisher Price toy, but looks are deceiving. It's solid.
I have not received my boxes yet...
This is basically what I use for light electronics work...
I notice in the pics that they used a ton of hot glue, not sure if they understand the idea of how to use it or if they were trying to just encase the board in glue It also looks like they may have been using the wrong glue for the glue gun or just running it too hot because the glue looked burned in the pictures I have been seeing.
This is basically what I use for light electronics work...
I notice in the pics that they used a ton of hot glue, not sure if they understand the idea of how to use it or if they were trying to just encase the board in glue
It also looks like they may have been using the wrong glue for the glue gun or just running it too hot because the glue looked burned in the pictures I have been seeing.- Status
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