Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

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OthatGuy

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I'm finally throwin g a dna40 in one of those enclosures I got a stupid question, if someone could confirm I'd appreciate it.


Grounds:
From dna40 ground on bottom right side of board (b-) (if display is down looking at the button side) goes to the battery

And ground on the top right side of the board goes to the case.

Thanks !
 

Duffloop

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I'm finally throwin g a dna40 in one of those enclosures I got a stupid question, if someone could confirm I'd appreciate it.


Grounds:
From dna40 ground on bottom right side of board (b-) (if display is down looking at the button side) goes to the battery

And ground on the top right side of the board goes to the case.

Thanks !

Maybe this'll help...

dna40-cloupor-hana-wiring-guide.jpg
 

Hammy75

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Holy crap! $20 shipping?!?!?!

I ordered 3 510s and some switches from Varitube. Their shipping to Canada was $10. A little pricey but better then a lot of places. Evolv was only $1 for the charging board and Vape Dojo was $7 for the DNA board.

Question about the tactile switches... Do I need to test the leads for continuity or can I simply use any 2 of them? I am pretty much ready to start putting my box together. Just need to track down a friend who had a drill press and the tap for the 510.
 

Duffloop

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I ordered 3 510s and some switches from Varitube. Their shipping to Canada was $10. A little pricey but better then a lot of places. Evolv was only $1 for the charging board and Vape Dojo was $7 for the DNA board.

Question about the tactile switches... Do I need to test the leads for continuity or can I simply use any 2 of them? I am pretty much ready to start putting my box together. Just need to track down a friend who had a drill press and the tap for the 510.

what do you mean 'test for continuity'?

you can use any switches - just check the wires haven't shorted at the circuit board (with multimeter) cos those solder points are very tight. You don't really need a drill press for the 510 - just a vice n a reasonably steady hand ;-)

16119371075_08a05f17d9_c.jpg
 

Hammy75

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I read a guild the other day that said the leads coming off the switch were paired so you need to test them to see which ones go together. I don't think I am explaining this properly:). Can you use any of the 4 solder points on the tactile switch or do they have to be a specific 2 that work together? I will be cutting 2 off. I have only ever used switches that have 2 solder points. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense...hard to explain. I will try to find the guide I read and copy the text.
 
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ozen

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I read a guild the other day that said the leads coming off the switch were paired so you need to test them to see which ones go together. I don't think I am explaining this properly:). Can you use any of the 4 solder points on the tactile switch or do they have to be a specific 2 that work together? I will be cutting 2 off. I have only ever used switches that have 2 solder points. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense...hard to explain. I will try to find the guide I read and copy the text.

You can use any 2 legs of that tactile switch :)
 

MattB101

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I'm finally throwin g a dna40 in one of those enclosures I got a stupid question, if someone could confirm I'd appreciate it.


Grounds:
From dna40 ground on bottom right side of board (b-) (if display is down looking at the button side) goes to the battery

And ground on the top right side of the board goes to the case.

Thanks !

Correct.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 

JimmyDB

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You can use any 2 legs of that tactile switch :)

I don't think that's right. It should be that there are two 'pairs' of contacts on the switch... each 'pair' will be connected together all the time and all of the contacts will be connected together when the switch is closed.

On the bottom of the switch you may see lines in the plastic that signify which contacts are always closed and which contacts are open... best to double check.
 

ozen

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I don't think that's right. It should be that there are two 'pairs' of contacts on the switch... each 'pair' will be connected together all the time and all of the contacts will be connected together when the switch is closed.

On the bottom of the switch you may see lines in the plastic that signify which contacts are always closed and which contacts are open... best to double check.

Yeah that's what I mean. Anyway this is what I really meant by any 2 legs of the switch :)
6r7rCqw.jpg
 
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