buying new attys vs re-building them

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Jae Lee

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so its about 2-3 weeks and it's time i need to replace my attys. i have kanger t3, evod, and protank.

now my first attempt was to rebuild them and found it pretty difficult, i think it could be that because i dont have a tweezer, like how some of the other guys are doing it.

at the same time, i also have an extra set of atomizers (5-packs) i can plop on. but i been hearing that rebuilding your attys can lead to producing more vapors and flavors. is this true? how is it that manufacturers can't create attys that rival or even do better than some homemade tricks?
 

Myrany

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I can confirm that the rebuild on my protank is better than the stock atty was. Took me 3 tries to get it though :)

I did 5 wraps of 32 gauge kanthal over peaches and cream cotton yarn (from wal mart and boiled to remove chemicals). Then put just 2 plys of the yarn over top as flavor wicks (it is a 4 ply yarn so I separated out 2). I ended up with a 1.9 ohm atty that vapes like a champ. My downfall was sharp scissors to trim the wicks. Mine were dull enough to destroy my first 2 coils by pulling them out of whack when I went to trim the wicks.

What I would tell you to do is just use what you have and when one is done rinse it well, dry it and stick it in a baggie until you are ready to rebuild. Then just do them all at once. By the time you get 5 done and working you will KNOW what you are doing.
 

CloudZ

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First off, the evod and protank rebuild the exact same way and it really isn't too tough once you get the hang of it. The T3 is a bit trickier because its tough to insert the rubber grommet inside the ego threads. Definitely pick up some thin tweezers to help you build coils, they definitely can make a big difference on any atomizer. I also tend to make use of a syringe needle most of the time.

I don't necessarily think that rebuilt coils perform any better than stock coils, but the main difference is being able to fine-tune your wick. I think cotton generally works better than silica for flavor and vapor, but that's just me. There may be some improvement due to more surface area with heavier gauge wire, as stock coils tend to use super thin wire


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Jae Lee

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First off, the evod and protank rebuild the exact same way and it really isn't too tough once you get the hang of it. The T3 is a bit trickier because its tough to insert the rubber grommet inside the ego threads. Definitely pick up some thin tweezers to help you build coils, they definitely can make a big difference on any atomizer. I also tend to make use of a syringe needle most of the time.

I don't necessarily think that rebuilt coils perform any better than stock coils, but the main difference is being able to fine-tune your wick. I think cotton generally works better than silica for flavor and vapor, but that's just me. There may be some improvement due to more surface area with heavier gauge wire, as stock coils tend to use super thin wire


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i seem to hear that alot too where they recommend cotton over silica. if this is true, shouldn't these atty manufacturers use plain cotton? or are there any downsides to these?
 

Jae Lee

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Well, a fine-tuned wick performs better than stock, so... I dont get your point

i loved your video, thought about trying it out myself but honestly i don't think i'll ever have the time. do you by any chance have plans you might sell these modified attys yourself? especially for first timers, it is easier to learn from playing w/ something pre-built than creating from scratch :)
 

Light Seeker

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I started rebuilding wicks in my viva novas, and later when Protanks came, because I wanted a lower ohm coil than what was commercially available to use in unregulated mechanical mods. I usually wrap a 1.1 to 1.3 ohm coil with cotton, and have found cotton gives a slightly cleaner taste to most of my juices, I can often pick up hints of flavor that silica wicks hide. I no longer bother with trying to clean heads by soaking in vodka or an ultrasonic, just take a few minutes to wrap a new head costing pennies. I was also rather alarmed inspecting a used silica wick under a magnifying glass, the wick had tiny shards breaking off. No idea the long term consequences, but silica shards in my lungs can't be good!
 

CloudZ

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Well, a fine-tuned wick performs better than stock, so... I dont get your point

I don't think there is anything you can do to significantly improve upon a stock coil in a clearomizer. The wick is a different story, and I prefer cotton.


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Jae Lee

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I started rebuilding wicks in my viva novas, and later when Protanks came, because I wanted a lower ohm coil than what was commercially available to use in unregulated mechanical mods. I usually wrap a 1.1 to 1.3 ohm coil with cotton, and have found cotton gives a slightly cleaner taste to most of my juices, I can often pick up hints of flavor that silica wicks hide. I no longer bother with trying to clean heads by soaking in vodka or an ultrasonic, just take a few minutes to wrap a new head costing pennies. I was also rather alarmed inspecting a used silica wick under a magnifying glass, the wick had tiny shards breaking off. No idea the long term consequences, but silica shards in my lungs can't be good!

the thought of inhaling even small amounts of silica is pretty scary. i'm guessing this applies to everything as well including, plastic bottles, metal coils, mesh, and cotton?
 

Kanj.nguyen

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I don't think there is anything you can do to significantly improve upon a stock coil in a clearomizer. The wick is a different story, and I prefer cotton.


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Yes... And no. Wick and coil is a single entity and must be in harmony with each other. So if you improve the wick to suit the coil it effectively means improving the coil as well.

Also, stock coils can be quite bad even if you judge it by itself (outside of wick). Usually it is quite unevenly wrapped and distributes heat poorly.
 

Light Seeker

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the thought of inhaling even small amounts of silica is pretty scary. i'm guessing this applies to everything as well including, plastic bottles, metal coils, mesh, and cotton?

Coils sometimes have a peculiar 'new coil' taste for a while if you don't torch them, probably from oils used in mfg. mesh doesn't break or shard if rolled right. I've looked at cotton wicks needing a rebuild that taste burnt, have not seen any shards like with silica, just burnt cotton. No idea how or why one would vape a plastic bottle, may be on to something new here, forget about the juice, just ship me some empty bottles. :)
 

CloudZ

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Yes... And no. Wick and coil is a single entity and must be in harmony with each other. So if you improve the wick to suit the coil it effectively means improving the coil as well.

Also, stock coils can be quite bad even if you judge it by itself (outside of wick). Usually it is quite unevenly wrapped and distributes heat poorly.

Ah, sounds pretty philosophical though. Let's say the factory coil looks good, but its wick is messed up (I've seen it before). You slide the busted up, uneven wick out and slide in some cotton yarn, and it works like a champ. Coils uneven? Take your best tweezers and straighten them out. Again, works great, and its not technically rebuilt. That's my philosophy :)

And yes, some of them show up defective and are beyond saving, requiring a rebuild. I'm just saying that a factory wick/coil which performs normally (quite common) isn't much different from a good rebuild. If you botch the rebuild, it might not even be as good as a mediocre factory build.

This isn't really even all that important. Rebuilding atomizer heads is about convenience and saving money.

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