Can seem to coil for the life of me (PLEASE HELP!!!)

[InTheShade]

I just poked about half an inch of wire through the tip of my thumb. Ouch!

Each time I try to send my coil through, 1 leg through post on either side, 1 post in the middle, I always get 0.0 resistance

I cannot wire a coil and get anything but a resistance of 0.0, what the heck! Can someone please clue me in as to what I may be doing wrong?

K I just re-read your post for the third time. When you say you are putting one leg through the post on either side, you are only putting it through one post right, not looping it around and going through both?

It should thread through one of the posts and the center post only.

Is there a way you can take a picture of the actual build on the atomizer?

 

[jonhall2]

i am thinking you have 28ga wire and you can't build a coil with that for a regulated device. find smaller wire like 30ga. my fav. or 32ga. kanthal A-1. make a 6 wrap on a 1/16" bit with 30ga. will give you a 1.4ohm neighborhood coil. that should fire on your device. heat it up before you wick with cotton and happy vaping my friend.

 

[AmandaD]

This is probably a 1.7 (or so) ohm coil, with 30 gauge kanthal wrapped on a 16 gauge needle (cotton wick).

 

[jonhall2]

nice clean build

 

[jonhall2]

thank goodness for regulated device in this situation.

 

[InTheShade]

i am thinking you have 28ga wire and you can't build a coil with that for a regulated device. find smaller wire like 30ga. my fav. or 32ga. kanthal A-1. make a 6 wrap on a 1/16" bit with 30ga. will give you a 1.4ohm neighborhood coil. that should fire on your device. heat it up before you wick with cotton and happy vaping my friend.

Most regulated APVs will fire around 1.2 ohms or above (some will go even lower). I frequently use 28ga kanthal on a 10 wrap (touching) micro coil and use it on mods and regulated APVs with no issues. It usually meters out at 1.4ohms. You could even use 26ga. with enough wraps if you wanted.
Of course, rebuilding a clearo head is different and you might struggle using 28ga. to get enough wraps in the space available to get the resistance up above the cut-off limit of the device.

The OP is getting a 0 ohm reading from his build, I don't think this has anything to do with the gauge of wire being used - but I've been wrong before

 

[*deleon517*]

Everyone I tried helping the OP 2 or 3 days ago with a bunch of question in a few threads. Each time my questions were met with more questions and no direct answer. I tried giving the OP resource material to read and links to several of BAD's blog's. Patience will be the Only thing that works as they have a hard time communicating.

Greggl, you need to breathe relax and let us help you. We ask questions because the answer to our questions will help us answer your questions correctly. There is a big difference between 26,28,30,32 gauge wires. From the look of the pic which is from a distance you appear to a have a 20 something gauge. Which on that atomizer and using a lavatube wont work very well, until you get really good at building. The lower the gauge number the more wire you need to use to get above 1.2 ohm's which is where the lavatube needs the coil to be. That atomizer has little room to use 20 something gauge wire with the correct amount of length without wrapping a perfect micro coil.

Your best bet is to put the building on hold, get some wire where you know the actual gauge. I say start at 30 or 32 gauge with kanthal A1 ( you can get a nice chunk of it for a few bucks off of ebay or amazon). depending on what you are wrapping the coil on (needle, precision screw driver) you will want between 4-7 wraps. that should net you above 1.2 ohm's and should help. Also make sure none of the coil is touching anything metal except the two legs running into the + and - post.

 

[dripdaze]

A multimeter would be extremely useful here so that an actual resistance reading could be obtained instead of a meaningless number provided by a mod.

 

[brickfollett]

Yes, these things do matter. If you don't even know what type of wire you are using, for all you know, it could be non-resistance wire (hence, the 0.00 reading). Or there could be a connection issue, a short issue, a broken wire issue. One of a myriad of things going wrong. Pictures are worth a thousand words, definitely in this case.

Haha good point about NR wire, I didn't even think of that. Kanthal and silver wire are resistance wire I'm aware of, although I've never read of anyone actually using silver wire. I wouldn't mind using some just for the novelty factor though...

 

[Statistic]

Unless the mod is not functioning correctly then there's not a great advantage of using a multimeter over a built in meter in a mod, built in meters work just fine. The problem lies elsewhere.

He's using a 3 post atty, which is intended for dual coil setups. Even if he's using the correct wire he said he is attaching the coil legs to the two outside posts which are going to be the same polarity. 0.0 doesn't always mean no resistance. If there is no conductivity a lot of mods will show 0.0 in place of an error code, some will show an error code like "ER" or something.

For starters the guy needs to connect one leg of his coil to an outside post and the other to the inside post (and not even consider dual coils until he gets a few good single coils built), then measure resistance. If he's still getting 0.0 then he's got the wrong wire or he's shorted at the connector or something.

Regardless he's hopeless until he takes responsibility for this endeavor and commits to learning some fundamentals, and maybe keeping an open mind when people try to help him.

 

[brickfollett]

For a person entering the rebuildables world Greg, I personally recommend using 32 gauge kanthal. Nichrome was the other material I forgot about in my above post.

Try just putting a length of wire, don't coil it or anything, into your positive connector and the other end into the negative connector on your RDA. only use under an inch or so if you can. Fire up your device and if nothing happens, you are using no resistance wire. If it glows orange and eventually pops (wire breaks) you have resistance wire. This may not be the best or the safest advice, but this will tell you right away what type of wire your using, unless your RDA is faulty.

Another thing you could do is take it apart and put it back together. Your head piece may not be making connection with the positive pin of your mod

 

[Susan W.]

Clarification: Kanthal and Nichrome are resistance wires. Fine silver wire is non-resistance.

The wire does make a difference. You can't use a non-resistance wire. You will get 0 ohms if you do. Do you know what kind of wire you are using?

Haha good point about NR wire, I didn't even think of that. Kanthal and silver wire are resistance wire I'm aware of, although I've never read of anyone actually using silver wire. I wouldn't mind using some just for the novelty factor though...

 

[brickfollett]

Unless the mod is not functioning correctly then there's not a great advantage of using a multimeter over a built in meter in a mod, built in meters work just fine. The problem lies elsewhere.

He's using a 3 post atty, which is intended for dual coil setups. Even if he's using the correct wire he said he is attaching the coil legs to the two outside posts which are going to be the same polarity. 0.0 doesn't always mean no resistance. If there is no conductivity a lot of mods will show 0.0 in place of an error code, some will show an error code like "ER" or something.

For starters the guy needs to connect one leg of his coil to an outside post and the other to the inside post (and not even consider dual coils until he gets a few good single coils built), then measure resistance. If he's still getting 0.0 then he's got the wrong wire or he's shorted at the connector or something.

Regardless he's hopeless until he takes responsibility for this endeavor and commits to learning some fundamentals, and maybe keeping an open mind when people try to help him.

False, nobody is hopeless.

The research, openness to advice and learning is key though. Lets not put anybody down, this is the new members forum after all. We don't want him to get frustrated to the point where he quite rebuildables altogether.

You got this Greg. Pinpoint the issue. Your issue is
A. Wrong wire type
Fix: Buy Kanthal/nichrome wire ASAP!

B. Bad connection on the RDA
Fix: fiddle with it and make sure your screws are tight. Fiddling is usually more prevalent with microcoils, especially when steel mesh wicks are involved. Doesn't sound like the case though

C. Positive pin on atomizer not making connection to Mod
Fix: Adjust positive pin (if applicable) or try a new RDA atomizer or different device if you have one

A mech would tell you what kind of wire you were using in a heartbeat. However, I can figure it out with my Provari throwing error codes pretty quick too.

Good luck man

 

[Steamix]

Uh oh ---

first off, resistance does matter ... is like friction for things non-electric. Step on the brakes on a icy road ... you get the idea...
So, any ole wire won't do - cuz they don't have enough specific resistance to heat up, electrons just skid through, not bothering to vaporizer yer juice. Which means we're back to kanthal or Ni-Chrome wires... So matter does matter.

Size does matter too...don't grab yer crotch, we're talking wire sizes --- like a garden hose, the thin ones won't let much through , so they heat up quick, means you need only a few coils around your wick ( the one in the atty, so let go of ... ) which in turn reduces the surface that is in actual contact with the liquid which in turn means vapour...

Most commonly used 0.20 millimeters ( = 32 AWG ) , 6 or 7 turns should get you there...

 

[brickfollett]

Clarification: Kanthal and Nichrome are resistance wires. Fine silver wire is non-resistance.

The wire does make a difference. You can't use a non-resistance wire. You will get 0 ohms if you do. Do you know what kind of wire you are using?

Silver is non resistance? Hm?!

I learned something today =]
Thanks!

 

[edyle]

I get the feeling you're not wrapping a coil on a drill bit or pin but instead just wrapping wire from 1 post to the next.

That will give you just about 0 ohms.

You need about an inch or 3 depending on the guage of the wire to get 1 ohm of wire.

 

[dripdaze]

Unless the mod is not functioning correctly then there's not a great advantage of using a multimeter over a built in meter in a mod, built in meters work just fine. The problem lies elsewhere.

He's using a 3 post atty, which is intended for dual coil setups. Even if he's using the correct wire he said he is attaching the coil legs to the two outside posts which are going to be the same polarity. 0.0 doesn't always mean no resistance. If there is no conductivity a lot of mods will show 0.0 in place of an error code, some will show an error code like "ER" or something.

For starters the guy needs to connect one leg of his coil to an outside post and the other to the inside post (and not even consider dual coils until he gets a few good single coils built), then measure resistance. If he's still getting 0.0 then he's got the wrong wire or he's shorted at the connector or something.

Regardless he's hopeless until he takes responsibility for this endeavor and commits to learning some fundamentals, and maybe keeping an open mind when people try to help him.

That is exactly why I say that the mod number is meaningless. There is no standard for how they indicate shorts and opens which leads to a lot of trouble helping newbs who have no experience to understand what is happening.

 

[Hypatia]

For a person entering the rebuildables world Greg, I personally recommend using 32 gauge kanthal. Nichrome was the other material I forgot about in my above post.

Try just putting a length of wire, don't coil it or anything, into your positive connector and the other end into the negative connector on your RDA. only use under an inch or so if you can. Fire up your device and if nothing happens, you are using no resistance wire. If it glows orange and eventually pops (wire breaks) you have resistance wire. This may not be the best or the safest advice, but this will tell you right away what type of wire your using, unless your RDA is faulty.

Another thing you could do is take it apart and put it back together. Your head piece may not be making connection with the positive pin of your mod

Safer than that: take one of of wire, and stick the two leads of your multimeter on the ends. The measure will give an idea of the gauge (each gauge will have a certain resistance per inch). No reading = NR wire. Safest: only use wire from marked rolls, then you'll know what you've got (kanthal A-1 or NiChrome are the two suitable, safe types). And 32 (or even 33) gauge for such a tiny space to work in, such as the A6 to get to a suitable ohm range for the Lava Tube.

 

[Statistic]

False, nobody is hopeless.

The research, openness to advice and learning is key though. Lets not put anybody down, this is the new members forum after all. We don't want him to get frustrated to the point where he quite rebuildables altogether.

You got this Greg. Pinpoint the issue. Your issue is
A. Wrong wire type
Fix: Buy Kanthal/nichrome wire ASAP!

B. Bad connection on the RDA
Fix: fiddle with it and make sure your screws are tight. Fiddling is usually more prevalent with microcoils, especially when steel mesh wicks are involved. Doesn't sound like the case though

C. Positive pin on atomizer not making connection to Mod
Fix: Adjust positive pin (if applicable) or try a new RDA atomizer or different device if you have one

A mech would tell you what kind of wire you were using in a heartbeat. However, I can figure it out with my Provari throwing error codes pretty quick too.

Good luck man

For one.. yes there are plenty of people in this world who are irrevocably hopeless in varying contexts. If I said I wanted to become an astronaut or a fighter pilot.. I am totally and completely hopeless in that regard. For two.. I didn't say he was unconditionally hopeless. I would repeat what I said but it's still quoted in your post if you wish to re-read it.

No I don't want to discourage anyone from learning and developing the skills to free themselves from proprietary replacement parts but it aint gonna happen for this guy until he changes his perspective and decides to do some reading and listening instead of taking guesses.

 

[Joshkotke]

I just poked about half an inch of wire through the tip of my thumb. Ouch!

Each time I try to send my coil through, 1 leg through post on either side, 1 post in the middle, I always get 0.0 resistance

I cannot wire a coil and get anything but a resistance of 0.0, what the heck! Can someone please clue me in as to what I may be doing wrong?

Maybe your center post that connects from your mod to your atomizer is to short if it's adjustable try that .i had the same prob on my MVP when trying to coil a taifun gt .