Can't decideee

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Charlz

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Dec 14, 2011
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There is currently a switch over in the stock with the batteries. Some are drip protected some are not. An email to the vendor will get what's right for you. Verdict is still out as to the superiority of dual coil echomizers. Buy some of each. Whatever comes in the kit, buy a couple of the others. Northwest Vapors has free shipping over $50. Cropduster901 has superfast shipping and smok Tek has good prices as well. Mountain Vapor has a good deal on a kit that comes with 5 dual coil cartomizers as well as deals that include free shipping on certain items when it comes to restocking.
The new drip protected batteries have solid posts. Unslotted. Translated: This means they work for all other 808 stuff but adapters and 901 attys don't work. Solution-have one of each put into the kit if possible. The echomizers are really good at not being drippy so ruining the batteries isn't as much of an issue. As with all big cartomizers, condensation does build up over a heavy vape session and need to be blown out occasionally. Wide holed 801 sized drip tips do a good job of not trapping the condensation and not letting it flow down the center hole to the battery.
Mountain Vapor has the stealth model on the way but these have a high failure rate for some reason.

Hows that? 250 pages in a nutshell. They clean really well, have a new design that virtually eliminates dry burns at the end. Last over a week before even needing a cleaning (high VG juice puts a variable in that). Some have been able to remove the filler for cleaning but I don't bother. Two weeks on a $3 cartomizer is good enough for me. I tried taking them apart. Haven't been so successful on the rebuild. (and of course I'm still trying, just not with the vigor I had at one time)
 
Thank you Charlz, I'm always looking for something larger to run 808 cartos and I didn't want to add a large adapter on the KGO, which 'may' add more resistance.
I don't really see a benefit with dual coils, why drain the joose below the top coil? Just seems like the same as topping off a single coil to me. If a single coil and dual both have the same ohms, it just seems the duals have more suface area to heat up which may deplete the battery quicker.
I may have to throw a ECHO w/ single coils in the shopping cart...hmm

Thanks again for summing up the thread ;)
 
How low is the coil in the echo cartos?
I was a electronic tech in the Marine Corps, so I'm not crazy about the condom method with the new protected style cartos.
As the wire heats up, it will slowly get brittle over time, so forcing liquid through the coil only seems like it raises the ability to kill this style of carto quicker.
It appears the ECHO coils are raised a little higher, so this shouldn't be a issue, but yeah, I'm a syringe filler type all the way :)
 

Charlz

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probably as low as it can be? E-tape marks placement. Used toothpick for measurement.

coilplacement.jpg

some sort of cup matrix is what the manufacturer claims eliminates burnt hits. So below that is prob just the connection and bit of wiring.
 
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Thanks for the pic, what do you mean by cup? Is it protected like the Volt cartos?
Here is the Volt breakdown by SteelJan (around the 3 min mark), does it sound the same?



I may be wrong, but this is where I'm at with vaping:

I'm new to the whole vaping thing, but I have spent the last week or so 'really' searching; reading and studying data about it.
The unknown variable here is joose. Since different joose acts differently at different watts.
But once you find the juice you like, with the set up that you have, I believe that is your watt number.
So to obtain your watt number with a 3.7 volt device, you spend a lot of money buying and testing different equipment (cartos; attys; tanks; etc). Now when you change joose, it may not perform/taste like you want it to, so you buy more equipment with either higher or lower ohms, hence spending more money.
Example: A 3.7 volt device with a 2.0 ohm carto is equal to 6.1 watts.
The nichrome (& solder) wire in cartos/attys and such dosen't seem to last as long when ran over 8 watts and below 4 watts may not produce enough vapor.
So to get the best life and performce seems to be in the 4-8 watt range.

I have a toaster that is 25+ years old and still going strong, the nichrome wires in it are huge compaired to our newer toaster, hence the reason we probably go through more newer toasters probably.

Quck summary without going into all kind of data and details:

Since juice is a variable and you really want the best vape and to also save money.
The logical thing would be to buy a variable volt device that will make your existing cartos; tanks & attys perform with any given juice by adjusting the voltage to get that juice to perform the way you want it, especially since juice can be expensive, verses buying different equipment for different juices.

Now I plan on also buying a larger ohm devices with the intent that they have thicker nichrome wire and just not more wraps of smaller wire so they last longer, hence saving me more money.
I have the dremel with a cut-off wheel ready so I can open them up and mic them.

Now mind you that I'm new, but to date, I believe to get to vapor heaven without spending a lot of money, A VV device with larger diameter nichrome wires is the way to go IMHO.

Some more experienced members may feel different and I would like to hear all opinions.
 
I re-read my post and it sounds like rambling.....lol.
Another variable would be individual taste.
One person may like a joose at 5 watts whereas another person may like the same juice at 7 watts.

Blah, more rambling.....lol

Since joose & taste are variables I guess it comes down to either buying different devices or adjusting the voltage on one device.
 
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Charlz

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same concept I guess. Go to the hangsen site. It talks about a new cup shaped matrix to eliminate dry burnt hits. Whatever it is, it works. Unless you purposely do a dry burn to try and clean off the coil. Then you will burn the wicking and it's "toast" forever. And finding your watts is the true trek of a vaporer. Trouble is, any "carry around" model won't stay at 4.2v for very long. Then I'm back to 3.7v for most of the battery life. 3.3-3.4v is useless for all but the folks that don't know any different and are comfortably happy using 2 or 3 cartomizers. Battery technology will catch up some day and someday I may be able to carry a VV mod comfortably in my pocket.

The wire on the Echo is more durable. Hangsen claims 100 refills but that is very laughable. If juice didn't gunk up and cleaning the coil so it was like brand new were possible, then I might believe it. It's why I took some apart-that is the beauty of the bottom positioned horizontal coil. The filler isn't wrapped around the wick, just the airflow tube. Rebuilding them has worked for some, just not worth the trouble for me. I've yet to pop one though. Just they get too hard to get a good vape off over time. So they are retired.
 

Charlz

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808 and 901 are the same threads. 901s take airflow from a carb in the side and can work on 808 batteries. But not vice versa. You also need either a hole in the middle of the post or a slot for airflow. It has to happen. The 901s don't have slotted posts. 808/901 to whatever-other-thread adapters don't have slotted posts. All 808 cartos I have do have the slotted posts. Take a look. One of the two needs a slotted post.
If you have a dremmel and can put a slot in a 901 or a 808/901 to "whatever" adapter and get them to work. Make one for me. You'll be my hero.
 
I don't know about the dremel, but I'm also a Union Millwright and I have access to the machine shop at the hall.
Hmmmm, how may adapters would I have to sell to retire. :laugh:

I may just get the Buzz Pro with both 510 & 808 heads. I thought this habit was supposed to save me money...lol.
 
I'm still reading the Echo thread, but I have not seen any specs on anyone's website with respect to output voltage or Echomizer ohms??

Edit: From the picture on the SmokTech's site (the dual coil pic) they appear to be unprotected coils, which I take it as to the new new cup design you were talking about probably.

I'm waiting for everyone to restock the CE4+ again, really wanting to give these a shot.
 
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Charlz

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Dec 14, 2011
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upstate NY
The single coils are 2.8-3.0 -Duals are 2.0 ohms but I've measured them lower to 1.7. Can't get a reading off these auto bats but they hold fairly solid with a big drop at the end so I think they may be regulated. Can tell the difference between the 4.2 kgo and these so they run about 3.7. Maybe why the duals don't offer much. Slightly more heat if you compare side by side...sometimes. 3.7v just doesn't give them the "juice" they require, I'm guessing.
 

Cyrus Vap

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I'm still reading the Echo thread, but I have not seen any specs on anyone's website with respect to output voltage or Echomizer ohms??

Edit: From the picture on the SmokTech's site (the dual coil pic) they appear to be unprotected coils, which I take it as to the new new cup design you were talking about probably.

Doesnt mad vapes sell these as fluxomizers?

I also want to try something like this out, I'm just waiting from a solid review from someone I respect, I've seen too much hit or miss
I'm waiting for everyone to restock the CE4+ again, really wanting to give these a shot.
 

ibobbyvapor

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Jan 11, 2012
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The Elite was one of the 1st I was considering on getting. After 2 emails to cigeasy with no reply I moved on. Have you had this issue? I'm very careful to order from a online shop that does not respond. How did you contact them?

Go get The Elite:

THE ELITE 808

I use 808 cartos, The Elite Clear and Easy tanks, and of course the incredible Elite Cartos. They all work beautifully. The Elite and the Go-Go live in my pocket all day long. I'm so pleased with my e-cigs I rarely post anymore. Everything works so there's nuthin' to complain about.

Be Happy ... Go Elite.
 
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