Catfish Atty Mods the next Chapter

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Train2

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Comes with a copper one - and mine had a bit of a patina on it when it arrived.
Suprisingly, a quick vodka soak, and it came out all shiny...wasn't really expecting that.

Also - same results - great flavor, grubs replaced the one crunchy screw just fine, and I've got an almost identical build (but mine's 27g.).


Is that a brass AFC? Been looking for that.
 
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rudedog

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The magnet should be recessed, if it wasn't, it would become the contact. If that magnet were to get really hot or flow enough current it would demagnetize, that would be a problem... I'm not crazy about the screen idea, the likelyhood of it bridging the contact worries me. I highly suggest you don't do that, but it's up to you.


yeah i tried it but no dice,i knew it wasnt the greatest thing to try but hey its only 2-18650 batts next to my face...lol.just have to when i press the button...have to keep pressing and trying different points of pressure on the fire button for it to make contact....its a bad lil mod just wanna figure this button out.gets frustrating when ya press down and no crackling coils,then after a few more tries on diff parts on the magnet it will fire.ill try some nolox after i clean and buff the switch again.thanks for the info though.
 

distortoblotto

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^^^ just curious, how's that different from noalux? I used a bit on mine and so far it's holding up nicely.

The silver should be a little thicker and less messy than the noalox. Noalox is a construction grade oxidation preventer. The silver stuff I would have to imagine would be a better conductor at a much higher price per ounce. We pay a premium for Noalox that people buying it in normal quantities don't pay. Most Noalox is sold by the case of 12 8oz bottles, when you buy small bottles like we do we have to pay ridiculous mark up. The silver paste I believe is an electronics compound typically sold in small quantities so the mark up isn't as severe. All said and done I bet the price difference isn't much. Distorto could do a better job of filling in the rest of the blanks. Personally I would use the absolute minimum amount of the silver paste to avoid bridging. Noalox isn't much of a conductor, its primary job is to keep the substrate isolated from the environment and prevent dissimilar metal reactions between the copper and brass connection.


Noalox is an anti oxidant and anti seize compound for aluminum, the zinc helps to slow down aluminum oxide from forming. Its meant for pressure type connections and service entrance boxes.The miniscule current flowing through the mods its placed on do not affectively make use of the added current paths provided by the compound. It does however help to lube threads and such in keeping them free from oxidation. On the other hand, conductive grease will indeed stabilize the current flow through the contacts and protect them as well. As Tom mentioned above, use it sparingly with just a small amount on the contacts themselves. I have Noalox too, but I use it for different situations and in fact, I always have to have a wee chuckle when I read of vapers smearing it all over the place.

Edit: Deoxit is an excellent conductant as well, however in cases where the contacts are constantly hitting each other back and forth, it fairly quickly wears away and needs to be re-applied more frequently.
 
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rudedog

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^^^ just curious, how's that different from noalux? I used a bit on mine and so far it's holding up nicely.


sounds like i needed to nolox it....after further reading,conductive grease will prolly be the best bet.thanks Hildi and DB for the input.
 

distortoblotto

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sounds like i needed to nolox it....after further reading,conductive grease will prolly be the best bet.thanks Hildi and DB for the input.

Hey there rudedog! Just make sure that if you go that route to spread it sparingly on the copper contact rings and not the magnets. Like mentioned before, a Q-tip does the trick.
 

mommabird62

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Finally have a home for my CF V1/V2 Manta. Boy, you folks weren't kidding, the Manta is a flavor machine. Tossed in a simple pair of 26AWG duals and BAM, it's rocking and rolling. And, on a related note, M3 grubs work great.




Looks fabulous! [emoji2]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk with my paws :)

Mommabird62
 

bullhcr

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I too have problems to get the CAM-M to fire consistently. I'm a little skeptical about the button being part of the circuit. Small production variations in the inner diameter of the button hole or the outer diameter of the button will likely have significant effect on the conductivity.

I'll try to find some deoxit and test that.
 

rudedog

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Hey there rudedog! Just make sure that if you go that route to spread it sparingly on the copper contact rings and not the magnets. Like mentioned before, a Q-tip does the trick.


my li9l town dont have any silver conductivity grease.therefore i am gonna try the nolox and see how that goes..still a kickbutt lil dually though!!have cleaned and noloxed the switch and WOW what a diff so far!no crunch/grind just smooooottthh switch performance!!-Rick
 
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distortoblotto

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If the only hitch in the giddy up with the CAM M is the fouling issue with the fire button, it's really minor when it comes to the overall value of the device itself. Copper connections are always a PITA when it comes to electrical contact because of the rapid oxidation inherent with the metal itself. Would this prevent me from adding a second CAM M to the stable? The answer to that is the second is on the way. I've been pounding on my current for the past couple of days with the silver conductive grease trick with nary a misfire at all and the button is like butter. As others as well as myself have stated, this is the best 100 bucks firing device wise I've spent since I started vaping...:)
 

SeanMoore

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I haven't had my CAM-M apart yet but being as the button is copper and copper paste sure isn't going to hurt a couple of magnets like I've heard is under it:

You can get regular old conductive grease right down at the auto parts store. I have the loctite brand right now but it seems the same as the stuff I had before that which was that "more generic" packaging at Pep Boys... can't remember the name but they make all sorts of auto chemicals. It's like a blue and orange stripe on white packaging usually.

Yeah, distoroblotto: I'm seriously considering getting a second before he runs out of them. Who knows when we'll see the next parallel squonk mech mod and I sure don't have the tools to try to make one.
 

bottomfeeder

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It's a brand new atty. We are getting this on the first run. Less than 50 people have them currently. My first 20 should be shipping today. The question was posed earlier to the manufacturer; he mentioned that one hole was tested but it created hotspots on the back side of the coil. I will look to see if I can modify the inner barrel for single air if that's a big issue to you, then you can decide for yourself. Deal?
Sounds good to me, Tom. I appreciate it. I'm going to stay on the list but since were both into single coils could you try some single coils out and see how it performs? If it rocks I will have a check in the mail. Pretty excited and hopeful that it accepts both well.
 

Wolfenstark

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Thank you Tom

CAM-M.JPG
 
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