Please bear in mind that this is my first tutorial, so that being said Ive done my best to explain everything as clearly as possible, hence all of the pictures. As always please be careful and take all of the necessary safety precautions.
OK here goes
Materials Needed:
Amazon.com: Slip Tip Syringes - 5cc: Kitchen & Dining I use these because they are cheap, you dont have to order in bulk, the length of the rubber stopper, and the markings can be wiped off (some syringes come with the markings etched in).
1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Clear PVC Tubing
510 XL CE2 Stainless Steel Cartomizer. (Can possibly use other threading types but I dont know the diameters of them so I cant guarantee they will work with this method as it is customized for the 510)
½ Wooden dowel, or anything that is sturdy, will fit in the syringe, and wont dull the tube cutters blade.
Oops remover or equivalent
Black electrical tape (optional)
Tools Needed:
Dremel with 115 High Speed Cutter / Model: 115 attachment, Cutting wheel, and Grinding wheel
Something that the CE2 threads will go into loosely but will catch the sides of it (youll see what I mean when we get to that part), I used a Leatherman.
Mini tube cutter (available at most hardware stores)
Knife or some other tool to cut the PVC tubing
Now to get started.
Cutting the CE2:
Using your mini tube cutter carefully cut your CE2 roughly 8-10mm from the base. I would recommend taking the silicone washer and cap out of the inside first, the silicon cap is in there pretty tight and may take the ceramic head with it when you pull off the stainless steel tube youve cut away.
Hold on to the excess tube youll need it later.
Preparing the syringe:
Youll need some Oops remover or an equivalent type of solvent that is safe to use on plastics.
Just spray a little Oops on the syringe markings and wipe off, its that easy.
Now its time to cut the syringe:
For this part its helpful to have a half inch wooden dowel, I used a paint thingamajig (technical term) I found lying around in the garage.
Just place the rod inside of the syringe like so
Use the tube cutter to cut the syringe at about 2 long (the same size as the SS tube before you cut it). Cut the tip long enough for the rubber stopper to fit into all the way (youll see why later). You can use a dremel and a cutting wheel but Ive found that this method produces a nice clean and even cut. This method is slower than the dremel but the end result is worth it. Once youre done youll have a nicely cut tube and the 2 cut off pieces.
Youll want to hold on to the tip itll be used later.
Inserting the CE2:
This is the part where the PVC tubing comes in to play. Cut a piece of it roughly the same length as the CE2. Once thats done you partially insert it into the syringe tube and then partially incert the CE2 into that. It should look something like this
Once thats done put the CE2 threads into whatever you have that will let the threads in very loosely but will catch the edges, I used the regular plier on my Leatherman. Keep in mind I didnt close the pliers all the way, just enough to catch the bottom of the CE2.
From there you just push the syringe tube down until its all flush.
Now on to the lid:
I hope you remembered to keep that extra tube you cut off the CE2 and the tip you cut off the syringe, this is the part where you will need them.
First pull the rubber stopper off of the plunger and insert it into the tip of the syringe.
Then, using your 115 high speed dremel attachment carefully bore out the rubber stopper until youre almost all the way through.
Then pull it out and turn it around and reinsert it.
Now carefully do the same thing until youre all the way through the rubber stopper.
Ideally you want the wall thickness to be about 2mm, this will give you a nice snug fit around the stainless steel tube.
You will need to use the cutting wheel to cut the SS tube to the length you want, just be sure to cut away the end that you cut with the tube cutter as it will be curved inwards from the tube cutter and wont fit a drip tip or fit over the silicon cap. Also keep in mind that the shorter the tube the harder it will be to work with. I usually cut mine around 20mm long. You can use the grinding wheel to smooth away any burs.
After thats done you put the silicone cap onto the ceramic head and depending on whether or not you have a syringe with a needle that is long and thin enough to fill up with the lid on you may want to fill up before you put the lid on.
Next you place the silicon washer just inside of the SS tube like so
Then you insert the lid into the syringe.
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Optional cosmetic mods:
Here is where the electrical tape comes in. Just wrap it around the base of the tank high enough to cover the remaining SS part of the CE2 and the PVC tube and carefully cut the excess with an xacto knife or other thin, sharp blade. I would suggest wrapping it so the excess hangs off the end so you dont scar up the tube when you cut it.
Ego/Riva type users:
To cover up those unsightly threads just get an extra cone and cut it down to about 10mm. This will take a bit of fine tuning to get it just the right height, you want it high enough to cover the connecter on the battery but not so high that you cant get your tank on or have no air flow.
So there you have it. Depending on how much you have on hand already this is a pretty inexpensive tank that doesnt look too shabby if I do say so myself. The CE2 itself is the most expensive part so depending on how cheap you can get those this mod should cost around $3 and is pretty sturdy. I use them almost exclusively. There are just some places I dont want to take my $30 map tank so this makes for an alternative thats cheap enough to be completely disposable.
So how do they vape you ask?
That answer your question?

OK here goes
Materials Needed:
Amazon.com: Slip Tip Syringes - 5cc: Kitchen & Dining I use these because they are cheap, you dont have to order in bulk, the length of the rubber stopper, and the markings can be wiped off (some syringes come with the markings etched in).
1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Clear PVC Tubing
510 XL CE2 Stainless Steel Cartomizer. (Can possibly use other threading types but I dont know the diameters of them so I cant guarantee they will work with this method as it is customized for the 510)
½ Wooden dowel, or anything that is sturdy, will fit in the syringe, and wont dull the tube cutters blade.
Oops remover or equivalent
Black electrical tape (optional)
Tools Needed:
Dremel with 115 High Speed Cutter / Model: 115 attachment, Cutting wheel, and Grinding wheel
Something that the CE2 threads will go into loosely but will catch the sides of it (youll see what I mean when we get to that part), I used a Leatherman.
Mini tube cutter (available at most hardware stores)
Knife or some other tool to cut the PVC tubing
Now to get started.
Cutting the CE2:
Using your mini tube cutter carefully cut your CE2 roughly 8-10mm from the base. I would recommend taking the silicone washer and cap out of the inside first, the silicon cap is in there pretty tight and may take the ceramic head with it when you pull off the stainless steel tube youve cut away.
Hold on to the excess tube youll need it later.
Preparing the syringe:
Youll need some Oops remover or an equivalent type of solvent that is safe to use on plastics.
Just spray a little Oops on the syringe markings and wipe off, its that easy.
Now its time to cut the syringe:
For this part its helpful to have a half inch wooden dowel, I used a paint thingamajig (technical term) I found lying around in the garage.
Just place the rod inside of the syringe like so
Use the tube cutter to cut the syringe at about 2 long (the same size as the SS tube before you cut it). Cut the tip long enough for the rubber stopper to fit into all the way (youll see why later). You can use a dremel and a cutting wheel but Ive found that this method produces a nice clean and even cut. This method is slower than the dremel but the end result is worth it. Once youre done youll have a nicely cut tube and the 2 cut off pieces.
Youll want to hold on to the tip itll be used later.
Inserting the CE2:
This is the part where the PVC tubing comes in to play. Cut a piece of it roughly the same length as the CE2. Once thats done you partially insert it into the syringe tube and then partially incert the CE2 into that. It should look something like this
Once thats done put the CE2 threads into whatever you have that will let the threads in very loosely but will catch the edges, I used the regular plier on my Leatherman. Keep in mind I didnt close the pliers all the way, just enough to catch the bottom of the CE2.
From there you just push the syringe tube down until its all flush.
Now on to the lid:
I hope you remembered to keep that extra tube you cut off the CE2 and the tip you cut off the syringe, this is the part where you will need them.
First pull the rubber stopper off of the plunger and insert it into the tip of the syringe.
Then, using your 115 high speed dremel attachment carefully bore out the rubber stopper until youre almost all the way through.
Then pull it out and turn it around and reinsert it.
Now carefully do the same thing until youre all the way through the rubber stopper.
Ideally you want the wall thickness to be about 2mm, this will give you a nice snug fit around the stainless steel tube.
You will need to use the cutting wheel to cut the SS tube to the length you want, just be sure to cut away the end that you cut with the tube cutter as it will be curved inwards from the tube cutter and wont fit a drip tip or fit over the silicon cap. Also keep in mind that the shorter the tube the harder it will be to work with. I usually cut mine around 20mm long. You can use the grinding wheel to smooth away any burs.
After thats done you put the silicone cap onto the ceramic head and depending on whether or not you have a syringe with a needle that is long and thin enough to fill up with the lid on you may want to fill up before you put the lid on.
Next you place the silicon washer just inside of the SS tube like so
Then you insert the lid into the syringe.
[FONT="]
Optional cosmetic mods:
Here is where the electrical tape comes in. Just wrap it around the base of the tank high enough to cover the remaining SS part of the CE2 and the PVC tube and carefully cut the excess with an xacto knife or other thin, sharp blade. I would suggest wrapping it so the excess hangs off the end so you dont scar up the tube when you cut it.
Ego/Riva type users:
To cover up those unsightly threads just get an extra cone and cut it down to about 10mm. This will take a bit of fine tuning to get it just the right height, you want it high enough to cover the connecter on the battery but not so high that you cant get your tank on or have no air flow.
So there you have it. Depending on how much you have on hand already this is a pretty inexpensive tank that doesnt look too shabby if I do say so myself. The CE2 itself is the most expensive part so depending on how cheap you can get those this mod should cost around $3 and is pretty sturdy. I use them almost exclusively. There are just some places I dont want to take my $30 map tank so this makes for an alternative thats cheap enough to be completely disposable.
So how do they vape you ask?
That answer your question?

