Clearomizer LED tutorial? Step-by-step?

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Capers

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Mission accomplished!

It was a little frustrating grinding down the LED and getting it soldered in place, but I did it! It looks pretty cool too :)

I went to Radio Shack and found a 3.7v Blue LED (part # 276-0316) and a 150 ohm 1/8 watt resistor (1/8 watt are tiny).

Started by grinding down the LED to a reasonable size to fit in the clearo:

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Then soldered the resistor to the LED, and the other LED leg to the base of the clearo:

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..and viola!

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Video (in the complete dark, to illustrate the brightness):

 
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harmonic

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nice work capers! I don't see why you ground it down though since you stuck it in the clearo longways it didnt give it much extra room. Looks great.
I mentioned the smd led before - i am not sure what the exact difference is (besides not having legs on it) but I have seen led they are so bright you can see it even in daylight. The ones i saw were square. I also have one that came out of a dead ecig - its a little tiny board with the led and resistor and is slightly smaller in size than the led from raido shack. And the thing is super bright. I want to try and find some led like this....
 

Liv2Ski

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I ground it down because it was too thick for the tube to slide over. Yea, SMD LED would be much better, but I was impatient and didn't feel like ordering something :)

I have found the easiest way to do this is with a MAP tank. I buy the rectangle super bright LED's (they can be had at RS). Select appropriate resistor (see link below). Now with a MAP tank you do not even need to solder. Pinch Neg leg between grommet and carto base. Twist resistor around Pos LED leg and then around main post. This way when you get bored with say a blue you can change it up pretty quick.

LED calculator for single LEDs

VPX.jpgVPXred.jpg
 

Capers

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the leds in my tanks like to choose when they want to work..........sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes with juice in the tank, sometimes without.
My husband did say that they are a pita to get soldered on.

It was a pain and I had the same problem the first pass. However, I found and ordered some of this and am really excited to try it out.

Wire Glue, solder-less conductive adhesive.
 

Capers

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Unfortunately, I can't find anything solid..other than it's lead-free for sure, and a couple of re-sellers have this text in the product's description:

NON-TOXIC
NO Toxic Fumes and is not harmful to your health.

But, nothing definitive. They way I figure, it's an adhesive which uses carbon to be conductive. Generally speaking, I believe carbon in its basic form isn't harmful, and most glues become harmless after they're bonded. I guess if particles, etc were shedding from the glue substance, it wouldn't likely hold well for very long. e.g. super glue is harmless to use on an open wound, well a small cut, that is.

So, technically the answer is "I have no idea."
 

bp400

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yea I wanted to try this with a slow changing led, but I don't know how to solder. I might have to give the wire glue a try, or even the twisting mentioned somewhere above. I'm using pre-cut stainless 2.4-2.6 ohm ce2 in my vpx tank with 3.4-3.8v on my leo batt I think. And I'm also in the market for a new tank to use on a 5v box mod, with 3.0 ohm stainless ce2. I'm gonna take a look at some of those charts, but if anyone wants to advise on which led and/ or resistors i'll need for both set-ups that would be greatly appreciated. For anyone who wants this without learning it, You can buy the pre-cut ce2 with an led from stormy's for 6.99. But I'm really keen to get a slow changing led going (which is not available there).
 
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bp400

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kinda off topic but I just cleaned the led-soldered ce2 that came with my vpx tank. Today, I checked to see if the wicks were dry and noticed the wire used is now a little rusty. Any thoughts on the safety of vaping this or tips to get the rust off. Maybe some ideas for cleaning the next one I get/ make to avoid rust? Maybe the wire will get hot during dry burn and clean a little?
 

TomCatt

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kinda off topic but I just cleaned the led-soldered ce2 that came with my vpx tank. Today, I checked to see if the wicks were dry and noticed the wire used is now a little rusty. Any thoughts on the safety of vaping this or tips to get the rust off. Maybe some ideas for cleaning the next one I get/ make to avoid rust? Maybe the wire will get hot during dry burn and clean a little?

Do you mean the atty coil wire? If so, this isn't rust; most likely a build up of juice residue. Dry burn for ~5 seconds at a time until the coil glows all the way across. Blowing on the coil after each dry burn will generally get rid of any residue left behind.
 
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