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I ordered 2 of these to use in my Cutlass DNA30. They work ok for a $8 dollar clone.
$8.59 Chalice III Styled RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 14mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$8.59 Chalice III Styled RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 14mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Well, yeah, I can make coils. I've made higher and lower resistance, single and triple strand with various guage wires. Nothing I've made has been as good as these cheap-o premade coils, so I figure, why bother?
There might be a basic flaw in my coil building that I'm just not getting, but with these premades there isn't any variation and it's like smoking the same brand year after year. I've gotten so used to a standard taste that I if it tastes wrong I immediately go grab another.
I started with the standard 2.2 - 2.5 ohm boge atties 5 years ago and that is still what I try to get when mounting these coils. Guess I'm a creature of habit like many others
Oh yeah, I've looked at these but didn't think they were bottom feeders even though they said "Chalice" type?
Cappy I am thinking something like this
$2.81 Authentic Ni200 Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (10-Pack) - 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 0.15ohm / 15*15mm leads / 8 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Is going to be the best we are going to see for pre made. Not to bad to use just thread in come cotton and you are good to go.
As for attys I am using a Catfish modified Marquis clone and a Divo. Not enough air in the bottom aired attys for me anymore.
$2.81 Authentic Ni200 Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (10-Pack) - 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 0.15ohm / 15*15mm leads / 8 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Is going to be the best we are going to see for pre made. Not to bad to use just thread in come cotton and you are good to go.
As for attys I am using a Catfish modified Marquis clone and a Divo. Not enough air in the bottom aired attys for me anymore.
They are bottom fed and sqounk fine. Since I've never owned the original I can't say whether or not this clone is close to it. I use it when I want to just relax and enjoy the flavor of a good juice. I'm getting used to having more air flow so these are quite tight a draw for me. Cappy since you like a tight draw these might fit your vape style. The build quality is ok and again they're not the $150 dollar original, but seem to work fine.
Yup Ni200 is very little resistance. DNA 40 goes down to .1 for complete control but will go lower but lose some of the wattage range.
I am curious how you would describe the draw all the way open on it.
It's certainly not an open draw. No lung hits for sure. It's more open than most small atty's. I like it when I just want to relax and enjoy some good flavor. The fasttech one has it's quality issues but for less than $10 bucks their ok.
I just can't see spending $150 for a topper.
I would rather put that money towards one of Cappy's Mods!!
Ahoy! Happy Thors-day!
I'm sitting here playing with a prototype I just now finished. I added a FET to the Cruiser to enable it to provide up to 13 - 14 amps (the wires might melt at about 15 amps). I used a DNA style switch to activate it.
Damn thing took me about 3 hours to wire in. I placed the FET assembly in a pocket I made behind the switch/atty inside the bottom of the mod.
The current Cruiser models are already designed to handle 10 amps before they nuke themselves, I'm just wondering if it is worth the extra $20 or $30 bucks cost for 3 more amps. Using the nice DNA style square switch is a big plus though....
I have another thing to ponder. If I wish to include a fuse in the Cruiser, I was thinking of using these;
Smoktech 7A Vapesafe Fuse
I really think it's time to address the fuse issue. These fuses can be used in current Cruisers but the battery size would have to be dropped to the 18500 size batteries.
The nice thing about them is if they pop, the mod isn't out of commission while the mod is sent in for a replacement fuse. The owner can just use a couple magnets to make the battery fit tight after the fuse is taken out, but as the fuse will reset itself this shouldn't be an issue.
The real problem is, I must make the battery channel bigger to fit the fuse and still be able to mount an 18650 battery. Also the fuses pop at 7 amps, I may try replacing the current fuse with 14 amp fuses though, 7 amps seems to low to me.
I need to decide what I am going to do before I start routing out the Cruiser bodies......... decisions decisions ....
I'm sitting here playing with a prototype I just now finished. I added a FET to the Cruiser to enable it to provide up to 13 - 14 amps (the wires might melt at about 15 amps). I used a DNA style switch to activate it.
Damn thing took me about 3 hours to wire in. I placed the FET assembly in a pocket I made behind the switch/atty inside the bottom of the mod.
The current Cruiser models are already designed to handle 10 amps before they nuke themselves, I'm just wondering if it is worth the extra $20 or $30 bucks cost for 3 more amps. Using the nice DNA style square switch is a big plus though....
I have another thing to ponder. If I wish to include a fuse in the Cruiser, I was thinking of using these;
Smoktech 7A Vapesafe Fuse
I really think it's time to address the fuse issue. These fuses can be used in current Cruisers but the battery size would have to be dropped to the 18500 size batteries.
The nice thing about them is if they pop, the mod isn't out of commission while the mod is sent in for a replacement fuse. The owner can just use a couple magnets to make the battery fit tight after the fuse is taken out, but as the fuse will reset itself this shouldn't be an issue.
The real problem is, I must make the battery channel bigger to fit the fuse and still be able to mount an 18650 battery. Also the fuses pop at 7 amps, I may try replacing the current fuse with 14 amp fuses though, 7 amps seems to low to me.
I need to decide what I am going to do before I start routing out the Cruiser bodies......... decisions decisions ....
Would love to have a Cruiser that can handle 15+ amps all day long myself...
Solid core wire?
Solid core wire?
Would love to have a Cruiser that can handle 15+ amps all day long myself...
Solid core wire?
Stranded. Solid is a beast to work with in little spaces.
Y'know, if I dropped down to 16 guage wire, that would up the current to what, 18 - 20 amps? Hmm, wonder if I could squeeze it in the mod.
... but what about the fuse? Nobody makes a SMD PTC fuse above about 14 amps that I know of .... wonder if I could stack a pair of 14 on the little circuit boards.... arggg.... I need to decide things and get to work!
No need for a fuse as long as one stays within the limits of the mod. You're right, solid core can be a beast to work with, but with the proper bending tool, it can be done.
Don't get me wrong Cappy as I love the Cruiser just the way it is, but in todays market where everyone is clamoring for more power, raising the amp limit would most likely serve to move more units.
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How much though, I already feel there is too much at even 10 amps. It only takes 15 amps to run my CNC machine.
4" of 16g has an amp limit of 15.
A coil built to 0.3 @ 4.2 volts on a fresh battery would be pulling 14 amps. ( 58.8 watts)
I would think that to be just about perfect...
A coil built to 0.3 @ 4.2 volts on a fresh battery would be pulling 14 amps. ( 58.8 watts)
I would think that to be just about perfect...
4" of 16g has an amp limit of 15.
A coil built to 0.3 @ 4.2 volts on a fresh battery would be pulling 14 amps. ( 58.8 watts)
I would think that to be just about perfect...
Hmm, the chart I have says 16 guage, 19 or 37 strand at 30c should handle 19 amps. But it seems everyone has a chart/graph or whatnot concerning this and they are all a bit different. Temp, frequency, dc vs ac, it'a headache! I try to err on the side of caution though.
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