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- Thread starter Capt' Brian
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I'm curious why you decided you prefer unregulated over dna-regulated?
I have enough mods that each juice I use has a specific RBA and coil ready and loaded. I found that after I dialed it in, it really provided nothing additional when compared to the Cruiser HD I have. Since I use multiple mods throughout the day battery life really isn't a big deal either since they all get a fresh battery in the morning and that lasts until the next day.
Exactly! The Cutlass is a beautiful mod with a very nice fit and finish. If you want a DNA BF mod it's a great choice. I have it's little brother without DNA, The Cruiser HD that can handle 8 amps.
I had been a VW user since getting a Evolv Darwin years ago, so I had to give it a shot but turns out I've gotten so used to unregulated that I now prefer it.
These pictures go well with your avatar dspin!
Capt Bryans desk caddies
Shorty for 18350 and 18350
Taller for 18650 - this one notched out for GG's with biggest buttons
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i'm kind of in the same boat. i prefer my mechs and wired "mech" Woods, but wanted a Wood BF DNA just... well, cuz...
I will probably pick up a Cruiser HD when the right wood becomes available. I'm still lusting after the pics Mr. T posted a while back
but i suspect i'll hang onto the Cutlass. far and away better than the booger box i had long ago.
I made this one from a down tree in my woods , I have made a few for friends and they like them , I have gotten much better at it since this one , my wife also says I have too many toys , go figure?
Good day Crew
Awesome pics Dspin, I know that's not even half of your collection there, you surely need a lot more caddies to fit them all
Thats true Aid - but I only put out what I use at the time - rest sit in a glass top Pen display case
i needz some help.
a new RM2 for my RSM. Doesnt make contact with the 510. it is really tight fit inside the cup.
is there a way for me to raise the 510 to make contact?
should i look for a 510/510 connector? or would this prevent bottom feeding?
a new RM2 for my RSM. Doesnt make contact with the 510. it is really tight fit inside the cup.
is there a way for me to raise the 510 to make contact?
should i look for a 510/510 connector? or would this prevent bottom feeding?
Is it a standard RM2 or an LP? Standard is on the right the others are LP. Also is the center pin like the middle one or more like the left one? You can back it out slightly. Here's a thread with the full tear down of an RM2. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html
thanks bruv!
it is like the one on the far left.
i tried to pull out its center, but unlike the other rm2 (that has a flathead opening), it is just a round piece and i coulndt grab it with anything.
it is like the one on the far left.
i tried to pull out its center, but unlike the other rm2 (that has a flathead opening), it is just a round piece and i coulndt grab it with anything.
Is it a standard RM2 or an LP? Standard is on the right the others are LP. Also is the center pin like the middle one or more like the left one? You can back it out slightly. Here's a thread with the full tear down of an RM2. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html
Do you have a round file or something else you can jam in the hole that will bite, The right size small flat blade screw driver should also work to bite into the side of the hole, then turn counter clockwise. You want it to look like the center one.
wonderful, thank youse! ima take another try at it. counterclockwise to extend it.
if i can get it to work and make contact i will be quite overjoyed!
the igo-bf is working well, but i want the best!!
wellz, i extended it out the slghtest bit, maybe 1/8 -1/4 mm. and i couldnt get it to fire with a tester coil.
i used a screw driver horizontally placed between the two posts and used leverage to force the RM2 as far down as it would go. after a final 1/4 turn after the tightest i could mange (thinking i was gonna break the thing) i finally got it to fire!!
i managed to get it back off.
once i build and mount it. its gonna stay put for a long time.
it is kinda disturbing how much force it took!
i am relieved it is usable, and not headin to the classies.
time to vape like a sir
i used a screw driver horizontally placed between the two posts and used leverage to force the RM2 as far down as it would go. after a final 1/4 turn after the tightest i could mange (thinking i was gonna break the thing) i finally got it to fire!!
i managed to get it back off.
once i build and mount it. its gonna stay put for a long time.
it is kinda disturbing how much force it took!
i am relieved it is usable, and not headin to the classies.
time to vape like a sir
You should be able to back it out a little more. it screws into a metal plate in the middle of the RM2.
ill take another stab at it when i get home. im limited to RBA tools on hand, lil screw drivers and tweezers
but as long as it makes contact, it doesnt have to move often unless i am making a major flavor change
Got my used walnut/ebony Cruiser HD from the classies today.Beautiful,wish I could post pics but I'm on dial-up and it just takes too long.Some light wear to finish from use but no abuse,I'm pleased.The wear makes me not hesitate to take it out and about,after all it's not like I paid full price,although after seeing it I can't wait for the chance to get a new one.It came with a RM2 and I couldn't make it or one of my other RM2 attys work.Finally got it going with my Igo-s-bf.I was also fooling with my flat-top Pannie PDs,right side up or down so that is probably part of the problem.It's new to me so I'm sure I'll figure it out.Can't wait for Cappie to build some more of this model,"size is just right" as Goldielocks said.Good ideas Filthy.
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