Cloupor Mini Mod 30W
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He stated he had to wait about a month for his to reach him from FT, so maybe GB taking the same length of time isn't as bad as I first thought.
I suppose it should be mentioned that when doing the Cloupor-recommended safety check, be sure the battery specs are adequate.
I suppose it should be mentioned that when doing the Cloupor-recommended safety check, be sure the battery specs are adequate.
Yeah, incredibly robust and feel-good little bugger.
I'm grinning since I got it (this morning). I should stop.
Call me insane, but I'm gonna charge the battery via Cpm's USB port.
Que sera, sera!
@ Edit: From „Low Battery” to fully charged in slightly over 2 hours. With a Samsung 25 R. Not bad, I'd say. Pretty much the same as with the dedicated battery charger. No pass through this time. No ”melting”, no nothing out of the ordinary. Works as it should.
Que sera, sera!
@ Edit: From „Low Battery” to fully charged in slightly over 2 hours. With a Samsung 25 R. Not bad, I'd say. Pretty much the same as with the dedicated battery charger. No pass through this time. No ”melting”, no nothing out of the ordinary. Works as it should.
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My mini finally got here today! exactly 30 days, pre-order from GearBest. One thing I've noticed, it is restricting the airflow of my tank too much. Vivi Nova w/ BVC. It has a slight gap. Have to use the 510 adapter with it like the iStick. 
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Or Merkel, maybe old Remington 32, win 101, etc. right tool for the job. I do shoot sporting clays with an AyA side by side all the time. With 1oz loads, mind you. It's all good. You know, the english still make 2" 12 bore loads? Most americans have never seen one.
I have my Granddad's single shot 12 ga. Davenport shotgun. I reload shells for it using black powder I make myself so I can still shoot the old girl. Wouldn't trade it for a Boss. Funny how that works...
I concur that you definitely need the right tool for the job. For example, too many folks try to shoot trap/skeet or sporting clays with a home defense shotgun with an 18"-20" cylinder bore barrel...that can only lead to frustration and disappointment. I think the Spanish guns like the AyA are underrated...especially by Americans. My field gun is a Lamber 20ga O/U (also made in Spain...love those Basques!) that is nearly the equal of a Beretta 686 and was 1/4 of the price....I don't mind if it gets dinged up a bit.
It's entirely psychological I'm sure that I prefer an O/U...I've been skunked many times by old timers with a nice SxS. Some autoloaders are very nice, but since I primarily shoot Trap I don't favor them...I've been hit one too many times by side ejecting shells at the range...most competitive Trap shooters don't take too kindly to that. My current Trap gun is a Beretta 686 X-trap with a 34" top single. For sporting clays and skeet I have a few Beretta Silver Pigeons and a Browning Citori. I have a few others in the safe but they don't get used as much. I almost picked up a Browning Cynergy last year but talked myself out of it...I'm saving up for that DT11! My Ponsness/Warren is set up to reload 2 3/4" shells with 1oz of #8 shot and IMR 700-X powder. I bought a 1,000lbs of lead about 15 years ago before the price went through the roof...I think it was $14/25lb bag at the time. Now the stuff is worth its weight in gold!
I have a serious questions. and forgive me if this makes me sound nooby and stupid. but anyway i just got my cloupor and im running a magma at about 1.3ohm coil wide open on both sides. i can go to about 20 watts and tastes great yay. but when i try to go up to 30 watts it tastes all burnt and bad. whats the point of going to 30 watts then? How do I get wicking to keep up with it? Do I have to build dual coils as opposed to single? im confused.
You set your wattage to the coil you build. If your 1.3Ω coil works great at 20w, why try it at 30w? Adjust the wattage to what works for the atomizer and build you have on it, don't just crank it up so you can brag about using 30w. I have a .9Ω dual coil on a dripper that works great at 24w. I have tanks with 1.5Ω builds that are also awesome at 12w.
Generally, to run at the higher wattages- 30w in your case- requires a coil that has less resistance, all else being equal. If you look at an Ohm's law calculator you can play w/the numbers to see what the voltage does at 30w when using your coil as opposed to a coil having less resistance.
Of course, the wicking material and coil design come into play, too. Currently in my Magma I use slightly spaced dual horizontal coils having a 3/32" ID, 10 turns of 28 gauge Kanthal gives me right at 0.9 ohms. It vapes real good at 20 to 22 watts but it will go higher. I just don't like that warm of a vape so I hold it down some. Oh, and I use rayon for wicks exclusively. I find it to be without doubt the best wick for me.
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I Run Both of my Magma's Dual coiled at .6ohm. I still only run them at 25w-27w watts. That is where My builds shine. Now, I run the Orchid Tanks at 30w most of the time with excellent performance. That is where they shine.
My Dark Horse laughs at 40w
My Dark Horse laughs at 40w
My gawd, I wish the USPS was better. Finally, after getting notice (dreaded missed delivery) literally the day before I left on vacation. I had to go see the incompetent folks at the office. I cannot truly believe how small this thing is! My Erl mini is amazing! My Kanger Subtank is amazing! I enjoyed using my iPV mini while on vacation, but the Cloupor has not left my hand in the past two days. Time to clean house of older gear that will be collecting dust.
So, today came The Dark One.
Series 00008xxx (the silver one is 00011xxx).
Back lid is wobbly - but it's the body at fault (slightly different size). Silver back lid on black body wobbles; black lid on silver body does not.
How could I fix this best, I wonder...
Otherwise it works as expected.
Series 00008xxx (the silver one is 00011xxx).
Back lid is wobbly - but it's the body at fault (slightly different size). Silver back lid on black body wobbles; black lid on silver body does not.
How could I fix this best, I wonder...
Otherwise it works as expected.
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So, today came The Dark One.
View attachment 411887
Series 00008xxx (the silver one is 00011xxx).
Back lid is wobbly - but it's the body at fault (slightly different size). Silver back lid on black body wobbles; black lid on silver body does not.
How could I fix this best, I wonder...
Otherwise it works as expected.
Interesting
I would think it is easier to mess up Pressing a Cover than Casting a Body. You might want to Look back through the thread. An explanation of how to properly correct has been posted.
Things that can cause Cover Rock:
Cover to body mis-fit
Battery tray not fully installed
Excessively thick battery
Magnets improperly mounted
Trash on magnets(shavings)
TY, crxess.
I remember seeing something similar, but I can't find it (skimmed for it thrice).
None of the possible causes you mentioned apply in my case.
The black one has a weird overhang at the bottom. (not sure if it's visible in the following photo; at the top the lid sits snug)
I remember seeing something similar, but I can't find it (skimmed for it thrice).
None of the possible causes you mentioned apply in my case.
The black one has a weird overhang at the bottom. (not sure if it's visible in the following photo; at the top the lid sits snug)
Looks like the Door on the Black one was Clipped to long - probably from late run before recalibrating the machine. Not uncommon in mass production.
My Black unit looks almost one piece with the door in place so it is luck of the draw.
My Silver is not as perfect, but no real movement or fit issues. just a tad wide seam in one spot.
My Black unit looks almost one piece with the door in place so it is luck of the draw.
My Silver is not as perfect, but no real movement or fit issues. just a tad wide seam in one spot.
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