Cloupor Mini Mod 30W

[Flapstick]

Well, I sort of solved it.

A. I noticed that the positive pole contact was glued a wee bit in excess and the lid was slightly raised by the ”lump of gunk”. I trimmed it with immediate results: sooo much better. But it still moved slightly, so:

B. I added a tiny strip of electrical tape (black, of course) on the inner lip of the body. No more side-to-side movement.

It still overhangs, but I don't mind that.

Now we're talking!

 

[Scotticus93]

You set your wattage to the coil you build. If your 1.3Ω coil works great at 20w, why try it at 30w? Adjust the wattage to what works for the atomizer and build you have on it, don't just crank it up so you can brag about using 30w. I have a .9Ω dual coil on a dripper that works great at 24w. I have tanks with 1.5Ω builds that are also awesome at 12w.

I'm not following though. cuz even if i built a higher ohm coil and run it at 30 watts. wouldnt it still apply the same heat as a lower coil with equal wattage. granted the voltage is higher on the former. or does that make it a hotter burn? i thought in the end all that matters is what wattage you are running it at.

 

[KTMRider]

I'm not following though. cuz even if i built a higher ohm coil and run it at 30 watts. wouldnt it still apply the same heat as a lower coil with equal wattage. granted the voltage is higher on the former. or does that make it a hotter burn? i thought in the end all that matters is what wattage you are running it at.

At higher ohms, you need less wattage to heat the coil or you risk burning the wick. When you have a low resistance (ohm) coil, you need more wattage to heat the coil. That is why you see guys wanting higher wattage devices for their sub-ohm builds. If you really want to vape at 30w, try a .5Ω coil. Personally, I like 1.2Ω - 1.6Ω coils on my tanks. Most are at 1.5Ω and 12w and it produces great flavor and vapor. For my DNA40, I have a .13Ω coil (nickel wire) at 17.5w, 420°F and it's also a great vape.

 

[ZeroOhm]

Been running the mini for about 6 weeks seems like a good time to retire the cloupor board and make a Vaporshark DNA40 killer for cheap

The only thing stopping me is I don't like is the damn fire switch and not much room in there if only to ditch those posts for the magnets and lid.

http://youtu.be/W1hW6TXoQIg

 

[crxess]

At higher ohms, you need less wattage to heat the coil or you risk burning the wick. When you have a low resistance (ohm) coil, you need more wattage to heat the coil. That is why you see guys wanting higher wattage devices for their sub-ohm builds. If you really want to vape at 30w, try a .5Ω coil. Personally, I like 1.2Ω - 1.6Ω coils on my tanks. Most are at 1.5Ω and 12w and it produces great flavor and vapor. For my DNA40, I have a .13Ω coil (nickel wire) at 17.5w, 420°F and it's also a great vape.

Wow, you Nailed that sideways....................................
Has a bit to do with the Thickness/Resistance of the wire itself also.

Build a 32ga 3.0ohm coil and a 32ga. .3ohm coil and see which one snaps first at even 10w.
Power required relates to Total setup, not just Coil resistance. Wicking and Air Flow are also critical factors.

Magma will work at 30w - Assuming the build is correct for 30w. Coil ga., Diameter, spacing. Amount of wicking and capillary ability. Air Flow and even the height/position of the coil itself.

It's not rocket science, but it is science.

Even Flavoring comes into play.
Hazelnut taste great on the Magma at 30w
Strawberry Ice Cream on the same build is ruined above 23-25w

 

[Croak]

Nice work Zero. Shame you had to ditch the Cloupor buttons, I really like those. Personally can't stand those BB buttons, especially as a fire button.

 

[crxess]

ZeroOhm - Why use such massive wiring for Data Transfer connections - +/- ?
Those are almost -0- load or may even be ground make/break contacts.

 

[Jonner]

My black is pretty much perfect, no movement and works great, I think luck of the draw applies here. Great mod at a great price regardless though.

 

[cobalt327]

FDV 510... I like.

 

[cobalt327]

I'm not convinced the doors are stamped. Mine looks suspiciously like a casting on the inside, plus the small divots on the outside have a cast-in look. Either way, be careful should anyone be tempted to tweak the door by bending it- if it's cast, there will be a LOT less leeway between bending it slightly and snapping it in two, than if it's a stamped sheet.

 

[gmoney$]

How are folks' atty's fitting on newer run mini's? My 0003xxx has a gap with most every atty, about 1mm or so. Is this luck of the draw as well? I have shortened the screw and removed the sections of the 510 rim that protrude, neither with success. The gap appears to be produced by the actual placement/height of the 510 assembly, and I saw no easy way to modify that. Thinking of getting another mini and wondering if the atty-gap is something that comes with the territory....

 

[cobalt327]

How are folks' atty's fitting on newer run mini's? My 0003xxx has a gap with most every atty, about 1mm or so. Is this luck of the draw as well? I have shortened the screw and removed the sections of the 510 rim that protrude, neither with success. The gap appears to be produced by the actual placement/height of the 510 assembly, and I saw no easy way to modify that. Thinking of getting another mini and wondering if the atty-gap is something that comes with the territory....

Uh oh. Mine doesn't seem to have a s/n. Must be a counterfeit! lol

Mine does the same thing and I've read others have seen this too. This happens quite a bit on other mods as well. I've made up several shims to take up the space- seems like that's a marketing opportunity for someone. Make them in various thicknesses, OD, and having different finishes to match (or to add accents to) mods and/or attys.

ETA Might already be someone making shims. I thought I had a bright idea (npi) when I came up w/an idea to market a flashlight head that could be added to a mechanical mod. Already been done. Don't know if there are any are made to be 'seamless' like a hybrid but by the time I built one, there would be...

 

[gmoney$]

Uh oh. Mine doesn't seem to have a s/n. Must be a counterfeit! lol

:

thanks. Your S/N is on the warranty/VIP card that should have come in the box with the mini

 

[Flapstick]

The gap may depend on both the atty and the mod.

My silver one has a 0.2 - 0.3 mm gap (barely visible) with no matter what atty. The black one accommodates the Russian 91% absolutely flush, same for Nautilus, while with the Subtank mini on top it has a teeny-tiny gap (again, barely visible).

Center pins screwed to the max (and even filed a little) on both of them. Pin housing is leveled with the body, otherwise. I don't understand the difference myself.

 

[crxess]

I'm not convinced the doors are stamped. Mine looks suspiciously like a casting on the inside, plus the small divots on the outside have a cast-in look. Either way, be careful should anyone be tempted to tweak the door by bending it- if it's cast, there will be a LOT less leeway between bending it slightly and snapping it in two, than if it's a stamped sheet.

Yea, looking at mine I tend to agree with Cast material. May have a little flex but CAUTION is needed.

 

[cobalt327]

thanks. Your S/N is on the warranty/VIP card that should have come in the box with the mini

Ahhh, cool. Got one of those! My s/n is 00042761 and as I said earlier- it has a shallow 510 that leaves almost every atty I have tried on it a bit proud of the mod. This evening I'll look into this further to see if there's a reasonably easy fix.

 

[geekmedic]

FYI for those that are interested in placing a wrap. I contacted vaporskinz and they said they can make a wrap without the micro USB cutout. Now without it being open I will always remember to never plug it in.

 

[Flapstick]

I'm plugging them both. It's not like I'm pushing a limit - that's what they're supposed to do.

 

[welldonedanny]

Just received my Cloupor Mini in the mailbox today and it's far surpassing my expectations !

I am still sceptical about its performance due to negative reviews and posts about it self destruction problems.

I am pleased with the mini so far. It is easy to use and adjustment of settings is simple. It fits very nicely in the hands or pocket. I ordered the black color and glad of it, as well.

So far, I'm burning the Atlantis at 3.7v and 22w with smooth consistent vaping. It's much nicer than the Aspire Cf MOD I've been using since November.

My case is machined perfectly with no overlapping edges, the battery door is snug and stable and doesn't detach easily. The finish is flawless with no signs of imperfections. The ohms resistance does read slightly higher than Atlantis reports for it's coil @ 0.62 but this could be due to the coil being a few weeks old and using higher vg juice; resulting in some additional resistance with buildup on the coil (?). No wake delay issues, the wake delay isn't bothersome for me.

Due to negative reviews i'm considering NOT leaving the battery in overnight to avoid possible circuit board melting and simply recharging batts with my nitecore charger instead of passthru option. However, the odds are against it and I feel that I'd rather have it fail now under warranty than later, in my pocket, or wherever.

I ordered from 3fvape on 1/28 for $39.99 shipping included, and received today with total time to my mailbox of 13 days. Tracking on the 17track website and usps site were fairly accurate and timely. Due to USPS routing, it took longer than necessary to arrive, IMHO. The item arrived in New Jersey on 2/5 then New York on 2/5, and (for some reason) to Louisiana on 2/9 where it sat untill 2/11 then arrived at Charlotte NC on 2/12 and to me 2/13. China can get it to USA faster than USPS can get it to the final destination... go figure, SMH

Will post updates on performance and stability after some time to observe.

 

[cobalt327]

Yea, looking at mine I tend to agree with Cast material. May have a little flex but CAUTION is needed.

Yeah- cast zinc isn't known for its ductility. lol