My CM drains pretty fast, too. I didn't notice as much until I got the IPV Mini 2 and realize how long it SHOULD last. That and not having a spring-loaded pin are the only issues I have with my CM. But I have plenty of extra batteries, so really the pin issue is the only annoyance. I have to adjust that sucker for each tank.
Cloupor Mini Mod 30W
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My CM drains pretty fast, too. I didn't notice as much until I got the IPV Mini 2 and realize how long it SHOULD last. That and not having a spring-loaded pin are the only issues I have with my CM. But I have plenty of extra batteries, so really the pin issue is the only annoyance. I have to adjust that sucker for each tank.
Not sure how you can verify one Device from the function of another.
I have:
Cloupor mini
IPV Mini 30w - cooler vape
IPV Mini 70w - warmest vape
Set to 30w with the SAME tank, all three are noticeable different. All three will have a different Battery life due to the differences.
What exactly makes one more Right than the other?
Without setting by Scope to get a matching value and testing Battery life one cannot assume.
Maybe I should replace the word "should" with "could." No verification other than my own personal experience and that of the poster I quoted. I realize two different devices are not going to be identical, however with my personal usage the IPV Mini 2 with the same battery, tank and wattage settings outlasts my Cloupor Mini.
I happen to love my CM and don't mind battery swapping, and I'm thankful I'm not having some of the issues others have reported. I was on the fence about replacing it altogether, but since it functions beautifully I decided to keep it and just add to my collection.
Maybe I should replace the word "should" with "could." No verification other than my own personal experience and that of the poster I quoted. I realize two different devices are not going to be identical, however with my personal usage the IPV Mini 2 with the same battery, tank and wattage settings outlasts my Cloupor Mini.
I happen to love my CM and don't mind battery swapping, and I'm thankful I'm not having some of the issues others have reported. I was on the fence about replacing it altogether, but since it functions beautifully I decided to keep it and just add to my collection.
I happen to agree with your test analysis. I also get the same results. The obvious difference (TO ME) is due to the Cloupor putting out more power at a set wattage.
Actually reading resistance higher than the IPV and delivering more ACTUAL wattage.(compared to screen reading)
As the Battery is depleted the Drain is accelerated by the demand differential.
I have found the IPV Perfect for just about any topper which works from about 7-25w with a slight fall off toward 30w
The Cloupor and the IPV 70w both lack lower power control making sub 12w vapes hotter than requested unless the coil is High resistance. However both deliver a more accurate vape at the 30w mark and the 70w does excellent at pushing all the way to 70w.
First time ever having to reduce power on my Dark Horse -
Maybe I should replace the word "should" with "could." No verification other than my own personal experience and that of the poster I quoted. I realize two different devices are not going to be identical, however with my personal usage the IPV Mini 2 with the same battery, tank and wattage settings outlasts my Cloupor Mini.
I happen to love my CM and don't mind battery swapping, and I'm thankful I'm not having some of the issues others have reported. I was on the fence about replacing it altogether, but since it functions beautifully I decided to keep it and just add to my collection.
An iPV Mini 2 70W arrived in the mail yesterday, augmenting my stable of iStick 20s (5) and 30s (2) and Cloupor Mini 30s (one so far with another coming). I figured at least one "high-wattage" device would be good to have (although 70W is probably no longer considered "high"). No obvious winner stood out among the inexpensive 60-100 watt box mods---oh sure, the SX Mini is the obvious pick of the litter, it's 190 bucks. The iPV Mini 2 won out for me based on price, performance, reports, ease of battery swapping, and ergonomics.
At the 10-day mark with my Cloupor Mini, I've become accustomed to swapping out the Samsung IMR18650 25R twice each day. No big deal, since it takes only about a minute to change batteries, start to finish, but two times each day was a slight surprise, since I'd expected that a single swap per day would be likely with a 30-watt mod running tanks at less than 20 watts.
After about 12 hours of vaping with the iPV Mini (not by itself---I keep loads of PVs loaded and ready on my desk, and I go back and forth from one to another), I noticed that the battery bar hadn't gone down at all. Wow. That was unexpected. Now, after one full day of intermittent vaping, the iPV Mini 2 is still on its first Samsung, yet the graphic battery bar indicator in the display remains 7/8 full.
Do the respective chips perform at comparable efficiencies? The iPV Mini 2 uses the Yihi SX330v2c, while the Cloupor Mini uses the Yihi SX300 (Cana DNA30). Or maybe it's the tanks: my iPV Mini 2 has an Erklonigin Nano tank built to 1.1 ohms running at 11 watts, while the Cloupor has been armed with a Kayfun Lite built to 1.6 ohms running at 13 watts. That seems like rough equivalency to me, but maybe not. My Kayfun's coil is 26-gauge, whereas this Erl is built with 29-gauge kanthal, so perhaps the Kayfun is using more amps. Whatever.
No hard science involved, and one day is hardly a reliable "test" at all---but I notice the difference because it's so pronounced, almost to the point of being dramatic. My various iSticks' 2200 mAh LiPo batteries seem to drain somewhere in the middle---faster than the iPV Mini 2, but slower than the Cloupor Mini.
Your Cloupor does not have anything remotely close to an SX300 in it. Its a Chinese no name DNA30 knock off, its NOT a 'name brand' chip.
And you have this knowledge From?
Based on?
Not saying it is/isn't, just short blank statements mean nothing without verification.
That statement has no indication of who actually produces/supplies the Chip
The IPV mini 70w chip is an UPGRADE - Is it a YiHi chip - Known. Who actually Knows which manufacturer makes the Cloupor DNA style Chip?
I new before purchasing my (2) Mini's that the Chip was an updated version of an earlier release.
18 months ago, Yihi chips were considered "cheap clones" by many people, just because Yihi is a Chinese company. How quickly things can change. Now, Yihi chips are more often proclaimed to be "authentic Yihi" in marketing copy, as a presumed badge of honor.
And so it goes.
I'm old enough to remember back in the 1960s and 1970s, when guitars made in Japan were considered "cheap knock-offs" compared to their American-made counterparts. Now those same Japanese guitars have become "vintage classics" and, along with new guitars from Japan, command premium prices. China, Korea, and Malaysia are the "new kids on the guitar block" with China currently occupying the bottom rung on the snobby status ladder, even though Chinese luthiers were making instruments before Rome even existed. China manufactures more than a million guitars per year, with rapid improvement in overall quality. Just a few huge factories in China (for instance, those owned by Korean companies Samick and Cort) produce import instrument lines for many different worldwide brands, including some famous American labels.
The relationship between actual quality and reputation is usually complex and sometimes mysterious, frequently as much or more about perception than reality. Not always or completely, of course, but often and to some extent. Plus, time factors into the equation. What is believed true or accepted as such at one point may change over time and later no longer be considered true (or even remembered as having been seen differently).
The marketplace of regulating chips and APVs that use them is advancing with breathtaking speed. I don't claim to know where things might be headed, since unknown factors might accelerate developments or derail them.
And so it goes.
And so it goes.
I'm old enough to remember back in the 1960s and 1970s, when guitars made in Japan were considered "cheap knock-offs" compared to their American-made counterparts. Now those same Japanese guitars have become "vintage classics" and, along with new guitars from Japan, command premium prices. China, Korea, and Malaysia are the "new kids on the guitar block" with China currently occupying the bottom rung on the snobby status ladder, even though Chinese luthiers were making instruments before Rome even existed. China manufactures more than a million guitars per year, with rapid improvement in overall quality. Just a few huge factories in China (for instance, those owned by Korean companies Samick and Cort) produce import instrument lines for many different worldwide brands, including some famous American labels.
The relationship between actual quality and reputation is usually complex and sometimes mysterious, frequently as much or more about perception than reality. Not always or completely, of course, but often and to some extent. Plus, time factors into the equation. What is believed true or accepted as such at one point may change over time and later no longer be considered true (or even remembered as having been seen differently).
The marketplace of regulating chips and APVs that use them is advancing with breathtaking speed. I don't claim to know where things might be headed, since unknown factors might accelerate developments or derail them.
And so it goes.
My Japanese 'lawsuit' 76 Ibanez Les Paul can definitely hold up to a real Gibson!
Korea is where Gibsons lower end line, Epiphone, comes from. Fender Squiers as well. Fenders Japanese plant is pretty much neck and neck with their factory here in California.
Korea is where Gibsons lower end line, Epiphone, comes from. Fender Squiers as well. Fenders Japanese plant is pretty much neck and neck with their factory here in California.
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On the original topic, I got my cloupor mini (black) in the mail thursday. It is a 0006x, on the waranty card. It works just fine, no issues.
I performed the 15sec/30 watt test. Really like the size, its very handy. The battery door also fits very flush, and is not loose at all.
Not sure what all the fuss was about.
I performed the 15sec/30 watt test. Really like the size, its very handy. The battery door also fits very flush, and is not loose at all.
Not sure what all the fuss was about.
Give it a few days. I thought the same. My battery door started loosening after a day or so. It got better after I took the plastic cover that goes over the electronics bay off and back on. It doesn't sit flush anymore but the door is more solid now. I think you can fix the sloppy door by adding a couple of strips over the battery cover to the outside edge of the plastic but not covering the metal part of the case. It makes a channel for the door's alignment edge to sit in and not move side to side.
Both of mine are dead level and the silver has been that way for weeks.
One poster checked the actual shape of the door and found Stamping was causing some to be distorted. He even flexed one back to fit properly and posted pics.
One poster checked the actual shape of the door and found Stamping was causing some to be distorted. He even flexed one back to fit properly and posted pics.
Almost three weeks with mine now, daily use, no issues whatsoever. It works like a champ with the Subtank Mini.
That is very true. But I still say give me a Belgian Browning Superposed over the later Japanese examples.
Nice to see meltdown reports dying down. Question for owners: is anyone employing any fix to the gap between device and atty left by the slightly raised 510 connection? It's a bit bothersome, and I can see a jury rig in which one either installs some kind of spacer around the outside of the brass(?) 510 ring ....? Just for aesthetics and perhaps to minimize the extra stress on the threads that gap might cause...
Nothing here, but I'd love a simple fix. My silver will flush most tanks. The Black has a bit of a gap.
yeah they went through the trouble to make little indentations along the rim of the 501 ring to align with the (useless?) channels that supposedly funnel leaked juice away from the battery compartment. Could have saved some trouble just by having the whole ring sit at the height of the indentations....
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