Coil building reference document

Status
Not open for further replies.

dripster

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Feb 18, 2017
1,559
2,376
Belgium
Mechs are an extremely basic design: Either a metal tube or metal/plastic box, with a 510 connector (unless it is a hybrid-top direct battery mech), a fire button, and battery terminal connections.

My first priority in choosing a mech would be for adequate ventilation holes in case a battery should vent. No vent holes in a metal tube is essentually a pipe bomb waiting to happen. You'll be surprised to find how many metal tube mechs have NO vent holes.

I would never recommend a hybrid-top, direct battery mechanical mod as someone's first mechanical mod. They require that the atomizer have an extended center pin, and not many atomizers are available with an extended center pin. It's just an additional safety issue, and an important one, to be aware of.

Most tube mechs use a bottom firing switch, which I find extremely awkward to use. All regulated mods, and all box mech mods, use a fire button in a more comfortable to use position near the top of the mod. Regardless of what type of fire button is used, there should be a way to disarm it in case you wish to carry it in your pocket or purse.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
  • Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, series vs parallel dual battery box mods, and faux hybrid mods.
I disagree that a hybrid or "faux hybrid" (i.e. direct-to-battery) is an additional safety issue. The claim that any atomizer that doesn't have an extended center pin is an additional safety issue would be more accurate because, despite I own several dozens of widely available and popular RDAs, not even a single one of them is lacking an extended center pin so I'm going to have to call BS on top of blatant classic scaremongering supreme, and, proper knowledge is the key to safety so basically my definition of "additional safety issue" in this regard are a small bunch of people who aren't capable to understand what can or can't cause a hard short on a mech, which means these people should stay away from mechs in general until they ARE capable to understand exactly that, in addition to understanding any and all other basic safety related topics. Poor excuses such as the one you appear to be in defense of here are a recipe for disaster and that's it. Faux hybrids don't blow peoples' face off. People do.

As for your remark of "Regardless of what type of fire button is used, there should be a way to disarm it in case you wish to carry it in your pocket or purse." I call more BS. Mech mods are advanced vaping devices intented to be used by advanced vapers only, and that already implies real knowledge of what can or can't cause the button to get pressed by accident for a long period so if you can't understand how this all works, then simply don't go around lecturing about it. Learn first. Educate second. In that order.
 
  • Optimistic
Reactions: stols001

Baditude

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Apr 8, 2012
30,394
73,072
70
Ridgeway, Ohio
@dripster, you bring up some valid points. But our perspectives seem to differ. I agree that mechanical mods are advanced vaping devices and should be intended to be used by adavanced vapers only. But in the real world that often doesn't mean that novices always have practical knowledge of mech mod use or safety practices when they buy one. Not all novices research their devices before purchase or use. Yeah, they should, but its often not the case.

Not all websites or vape shops provide safety warnings or instructive education. Many are only interested in making the sale. Many online sites do have a minimal warning that says somthing simple like ... "Warning. This is an advanced e-cigarette. Blah, blah, blah." But what good is that actually, and how many novices ignore it and purchase it anyway?

Hybrid-top mechs ARE a safety issue if the novice doesn't understand how they are different from a regular center pin mech. How many novices are not aware that only atomizers with an extended center pin can be used on hybrid-top mech? Reading reports of mech mod explosions here on ECF over the last 1 - 2 years, the vast majority are hybrid-top mechs with a stock clearomizer on top.

My local vape shop owner told me he will never carry hybrid-top mechs. He doesn't want the liability.

I try to do my part in educating new mech users. I wrote a blog specifically to educate new mech users on the safe use of a mech, which includes education for a hybrid-top mech. When I read a thread that someone is looking for their first mech, I provide a link to the blog. Maybe they already know, but maybe they don't. Just maybe they will learn something new that they hadn't come across in their research if they did any. I wouldn't call this information "blatant classic scaremongering supreme". I include pics of catastrophic injuries in an attempt to show novices what knowledge ignorance or carelessness can result in.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
  • Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.
Does this blog cover everything one needs to know? Probably not. Does it have some personal biases? Probably so. I'm not a professional writer, but I do my best to share my knowledge and experience in an attempt help others have a safer vaping experience.

So, as to what seems to be becoming a habit between the two of us, I agree to disagree with you, my friend. :)
 
Last edited:
  • Useful
Reactions: stols001

dripster

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Feb 18, 2017
1,559
2,376
Belgium
@dripster, you bring up some valid points. But our perspectives seem to differ. I agree that mechanical mods are advanced vaping devices and should be intended to be used by adavanced vapers only. But in the real world that often doesn't mean that novices always have practical knowledge of mech mod use or safety practices when they buy one. Not all novices research their devices before purchase or use. Yeah, they should, but its often not the case.
I never said all novices always do what they're supposed to do with regards to safety. If they always did, we wouldn't be having this conversation anyway in the first place, but because the same applies to regulated mods, unfortunately there's not much we can do about that besides spreading the word, and, to do that without making it sound too complicated and/or boring IME tends to be a bit of a challenge at times so cutting it into small manageable pieces seems to be compulsory, generally speaking.
Not all websites or vape shops provide safety warnings or instructive education. Many are only interested in making the sale. Many online sites do have a minimal warning that says somthing simple like ... "Warning. This is an advanced e-cigarette. Blah, blah, blah." But what good is that actually, and how many novices ignore it and purchase it anyway?
That's also my point, but because "advanced" is all about different shades of grey, so is "safety". I get that basic safety is better than no safety so a regulated mod makes good sense, however, improper usage of basic safety is the equivalent of having no safety so I'm more worried about people who wrongfully assume the built-in safety features of a regulated mod are making vaping safe, and, by claiming the CDR is the safety limit of the battery, you are professing the kind of safety that can only be described as utterly false.
Hybrid-top mechs ARE a safety issue if the novice doesn't understand how they are different from a regular center pin mech. How many novices are not aware that only atomizers with an extended center pin can be used on hybrid-top mech? Reading reports of mech mod explosions here on ECF over the last 1 - 2 years, the vast majority are hybrid-top mechs with a stock clearomizer on top.
That's why making them understand is they key to genuine safety, whereas merely telling them to stay away from it all is creating an open invitation to added ignorance. If you stay away from vaping altogether, vaping will ultimately be safe so this is a clear example of a moot point.
My local vape shop owner told me he will never carry hybrid-top mechs. He doesn't want the liability.
I'm glad that I don't need your local vape shop for me to be able to purchase my stuff. (To tell you the whole truth, I am thoroughly extatic about it... down to the bone.)
I try to do my part in educating new mech users. I wrote a blog specifically to educate new mech users on the safe use of a mech, which includes education for a hybrid-top mech. When I read a thread that someone is looking for their first mech, I provide a link to the blog. Maybe they already know, but maybe they don't. Just maybe they will learn something new that they hadn't come across in their research if they did any. I wouldn't call this information "blatant classic scaremongering supreme". I include pics of catastrophic injuries in an attempt to show novices what knowledge ignorance or carelessness can result in.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
  • Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.
Does this blog cover everything one needs to know? Probably not. Does it have some personal biases? Probably so. I'm not a professional writer, but I do my best to share my knowledge and experience in an attempt help others have a safer vaping experience.


A recessed button in cohort with a firm button throw on a mech can be considered a built-in safety feature that doesn't require the user to disarm the mech before putting it in a pocket, especially in view of the fact the user might forget to disarm it or might find that disarming it is too bothersome so it encourages neglect, possibly even the combination of both factors. Similarly, knowing when it's time to put the mod down and give it a rest can be facilitated by the ability to feel the warmth of the battery through the body of a copper or brass tube mech that doesn't have an insulating lining on the inside of the tube and that is in close contact with the battery, and, the ability to disarm the mech fast and reliably in the possible event that the mech starts to auto-fire is yet another great example of something that isn't necessarily more hazardous than a false sense of security resulting from a 10-second puff cut-off timer that can still fail and that can do so without the user necessarily knowing that it can so if that's the case, then the cut-off timer essentially becomes a security loophole rather than a safety feature, which only demonstrates why proper and adequate knowledge is the inevitable key instead.
So, as to what seems to be becoming a habit between the two of us, I agree to disagree with you, my friend. :)
 

tr1boon

Full Member
Aug 15, 2018
43
63
Oulu, Finland
Update:

I have started writing some basic stuff for the document, and bought Ni80 wire to test. Ni80 seems to require slightly lower wattage compared to SS or kanthal, am I right? Still need to find Ni200 and titanium wire to test, and go through different wicking materials. By the way, I happen to have a sheet of SS mesh, can I use it for wicking, and if so, how do I use it?

Also, the mech stuff is as I suspected; EU's TPD requires vaping devices to be 'safe', and because mechs are not, they are not allowed to be sold here. So the only option for me is to make one by myself. Do you people know any good mech building tutorials? I want to play it as safe as possible.
 

papergoblin

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 16, 2013
973
2,246
alabama
Update:

I have started writing some basic stuff for the document, and bought Ni80 wire to test. Ni80 seems to require slightly lower wattage compared to SS or kanthal, am I right? Still need to find Ni200 and titanium wire to test, and go through different wicking materials. By the way, I happen to have a sheet of SS mesh, can I use it for wicking, and if so, how do I use it?

Also, the mech stuff is as I suspected; EU's TPD requires vaping devices to be 'safe', and because mechs are not, they are not allowed to be sold here. So the only option for me is to make one by myself. Do you people know any good mech building tutorials? I want to play it as safe as possible.

Just look up homemade box mod. You'll get links to mech, mosfet and like. You could go to Fasttech and look up mechanical box mod, you'll get the idea of how they work by looking at the pictures.

Preparing mesh depends on how and what you are using it in. I'd search for videos/info on genny tanks using mesh and then RDA's and RTA's. There's quite a few ways to use it stand alone or with cotton, rayon, silica, and/or ekowool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stols001

dripster

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Feb 18, 2017
1,559
2,376
Belgium
Update:

I have started writing some basic stuff for the document, and bought Ni80 wire to test. Ni80 seems to require slightly lower wattage compared to SS or kanthal, am I right?
Wrong. Ni80 heats up faster due to the fact it has a lower volumetric heat capacity, but that doesn't also mean the wattage needs to be lowered, as the heat flux of the coil is still the same for both metal types if we can assume the metal type is the only difference between the two coils that you are going to compare.

A common misunderstanding is that switching to thinner (i.e. higher gauge) wires is necessarily always the best solution to get a coil build to ramp up faster. It isn't. By changing the wire thickness, the size and the total surface area of the coil is changed also in addition, and, in the case of an advanced coil build such as a fused clapton, for example, so is the size of the cavities between the core wires and the wrap wire. These additional changes are not necessarily always desired changes, so that also is an important part of the reason why using thinner wire might not be the best possible choice for what you had in mind. Further, some people are allergic to nickel so they can't use Ni80. Some people get a dreadful metallic taste from SS316L. A small minority of people suffer from both of these two problems so usually they stick to using Kanthal A1 instead.

Another common misunderstanding is that the mass of the coil is what determines the ramp up time in relation to the watts. It doesn't. Instead, the total volume (which is determined by combining the thicknesses and lengths of each wire used) should be the preferred way to specify the amount of metal that goes into the coil, as doing this makes the quantity number independent of the density of the various metal types. The reason why this is the least confusing way to do it is because, for example, Ni80 has a higher density (8.4g/cm³) than SS316L (8.0g/cm³) so that the Ni80 coil will have 5% more mass, yet, despite this, the Ni80 coil still heats up faster than the SS316L one nevertheless.

Wire Wizard conveniently reports the heat capacity of the coil. It directly determines the ramp up (and cooldown), as explained on this page:
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
If Wire Wizard doesn't let you, due to the limitations that it has, enter your advanced coil type specifications, then you can still calculate the heat capacity of your coil yourself manually. It equals the volume of the coil multiplied by the volumetric heat capacity of the metal type, and, it also equals the volume of the coil multiplied by the density of the metal type multiplied by the specific heat, or heat capacity of the metal type. (The specific heat, or heat capacity of a metal type can be found in the datasheet of the metal type, and so can the density.)
Still need to find Ni200 and titanium wire to test, and go through different wicking materials. By the way, I happen to have a sheet of SS mesh, can I use it for wicking, and if so, how do I use it?
For how I like to vape Ni200 and titanium wire are utterly useless, and so is SS mesh.
Also, the mech stuff is as I suspected; EU's TPD requires vaping devices to be 'safe', and because mechs are not, they are not allowed to be sold here. So the only option for me is to make one by myself. Do you people know any good mech building tutorials? I want to play it as safe as possible.
Here in Belgium the laws and regulations about vaping also include the TPD, but they are even far more strict than the TPD. Yet, despite this, mechs are allowed to be sold here so the TPD does not prohibit the sale of mechs, as the claim that mechs are inherently more dangerous than regulated mods is just an old fantasy, and, I use mechs almost exclusively so I suppose I could write my own building tutorial, but if you properly did your homework about battery safety and we can assume you know Ohm's law, then there's not that much left to talk about besides the same coil building principles that also apply to building for a regulated mod.

Knowing and familiarizing yourself with the mechanics of your mech is paramount, though, and of course so is being perfectly aware that an atomizer short (or any other short, for that matter) with a mech may result in a full-fledged catastrophic event. The "of course" part here is key to understanding why mechs can in fact be a lot safer than regulated mods, as all mishandling/misuse and abuse is moving towards winning the next Darwin Award, but with a mech at least you can't use the built-in safety features of a regulated mod for an excuse in order to then decide not to learn about battery safety when the reality is that you should learn about that regardless of whether you're using a regulated mod. In that particular sense, mechs profoundly invite you to using them with care. Carelessness and/or cluelessness is what makes ANY type of mod TRULY dangerous.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tr1boon

tr1boon

Full Member
Aug 15, 2018
43
63
Oulu, Finland
Wrong. Ni80 heats up faster due to the fact it has a lower volumetric heat capacity, but that doesn't also mean the wattage needs to be lowered, as the heat flux of the coil is still the same for both metal types if we can assume the metal type is the only difference between the two coils that you are going to compare.

A common misunderstanding is that switching to thinner (i.e. higher gauge) wires is necessarily always the best solution to get a coil build to ramp up faster. It isn't. By changing the wire thickness, the size and the total surface area of the coil is changed also in addition, and, in the case of an advanced coil build such as a fused clapton, for example, so is the size of the cavities between the core wires and the wrap wire. These additional changes are not necessarily always desired changes, so that also is an important part of the reason why using thinner wire might not be the best possible choice for what you had in mind. Further, some people are allergic to nickel so they can't use Ni80. Some people get a dreadful metallic taste from SS316L. A small minority of people suffer from both of these two problems so usually they stick to using Kanthal A1 instead.

Another common misunderstanding is that the mass of the coil is what determines the ramp up time in relation to the watts. It doesn't. Instead, the total volume (which is determined by combining the thicknesses and lengths of each wire used) should be the preferred way to specify the amount of metal that goes into the coil, as doing this makes the quantity number independent of the density of the various metal types. The reason why this is the least confusing way to do it is because, for example, Ni80 has a higher density (8.4g/cm³) than SS316L (8.0g/cm³) so that the Ni80 coil will have 5% more mass, yet, despite this, the Ni80 coil still heats up faster than the SS316L one nevertheless.

Wire Wizard conveniently reports the heat capacity of the coil. It directly determines the ramp up (and cooldown), as explained on this page:
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
If Wire Wizard doesn't let you, due to the limitations that it has, enter your advanced coil type specifications, then you can still calculate the heat capacity of your coil yourself manually. It equals the volume of the coil multiplied by the volumetric heat capacity of the metal type, and, it also equals the volume of the coil multiplied by the density of the metal type multiplied by the specific heat, or heat capacity of the metal type. (The specific heat, or heat capacity of a metal type can be found in the datasheet of the metal type, and so can the density.)

For how I like to vape Ni200 and titanium wire are utterly useless, and so is SS mesh.

Here in Belgium the laws and regulations about vaping also include the TPD, but they are even far more strict than the TPD. Yet, despite this, mechs are allowed to be sold here so the TPD does not prohibit the sale of mechs, as the claim that mechs are inherently more dangerous than regulated mods is just an old fantasy, and, I use mechs almost exclusively so I suppose I could write my own building tutorial, but if you properly did your homework about battery safety and we can assume you know Ohm's law, then there's not that much left to talk about besides the same coil building principles that also apply to building for a regulated mod.

Knowing and familiarizing yourself with the mechanics of your mech is paramount, though, and of course so is being perfectly aware that an atomizer short (or any other short, for that matter) with a mech may result in a full-fledged catastrophic event. The "of course" part here is key to understanding why mechs can in fact be a lot safer than regulated mods, as all mishandling/misuse and abuse is moving towards winning the next Darwin Award, but with a mech at least you can't use the built-in safety features of a regulated mod for an excuse in order to then decide not to learn about battery safety when the reality is that you should learn about that regardless of whether you're using a regulated mod. In that particular sense, mechs profoundly invite you to using them with care. Carelessness and/or cluelessness is what makes ANY type of mod TRULY dangerous.
Thanks for correcting me, that's very useful info :)

In case you didn't read the whole thread, the reason I want to take a look into titanium, Ni200 and wicking with mesh is because I want to compile a document that tells everything important about building coils for newcomers and experienced people alike.

If it isn't TPD restricting mechs, then its our lovely Finnish laws. We can't do almost anything vape related here, thanks to our government's favourite approach to everything new which is quite often that they just ban it without doing any research.

Edit:

Here they don't have completely banned vaping (thankfully) but it has some serious restrictions. For example, we can't buy any e-liquid if its not either flavourless or tobacco flavoured, who knows why. Also all the few vape shops must have windows that can't be seen through if they have any.
 
Last edited:

dripster

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Feb 18, 2017
1,559
2,376
Belgium
Thanks for correcting me, that's very useful info :)

In case you didn't read the whole thread, the reason I want to take a look into titanium, Ni200 and wicking with mesh is because I want to compile a document that tells everything important about building coils for newcomers and experienced people alike.

If it isn't TPD restricting mechs, then its our lovely Finnish laws. We can't do almost anything vape related here, thanks to our government's favourite approach to everything new which is quite often that they just ban it without doing any research.

Edit:

Here they don't have completely banned vaping (thankfully) but it has some serious restrictions. For example, we can't buy any e-liquid if its not either flavourless or tobacco flavoured, who knows why. Also all the few vape shops must have windows that can't be seen through if they have any.
I don't think it possible to capture everything important about building coils for experienced people, as there's a facebook group dedicated to coil building that currently has a whopping 16,292 members, for example, but you can try. A lot of what I know I learned from watching build tutorials from people on YouTube so I'll just list a few channels:

GrimmGreen →
The Art of Vaping (Squidoode)
OhmBoy Josh
OhmBoyOC
Pristine Builds (M.Terk)
Coil Mother Fudger
Twisted Messes
n. devine 83

Here in Belgium one of my main gripes is that we aren't allowed to vape in vape shops, which comes from the fact we aren't allowed to vape in any public indoor places. Also, online sales of vaping products aren't allowed so as a result vape shops who used to run a successful web shop have lost an important part of their revenue (in some cases more than half of it) because hardly anyone who used to buy from these Belgian retailers online has switched to visiting their B&M store counterparts (i.e. now they all simply just order their stuff from webs shops in The Netherlands, Germany or France because obviously our govt thinks our own local economy could use more funny obstacles such as this one), which has crippled a lot of top quality Belgian retailers' ability to invest in making new quality products available to customers so that the local wholesalers also are foced to adjust their business strategies accordingly, and so the whole supply chain is bleeding, as are smokers who gave up vaping to go back to smoking cigarettes, yet another direct consequence of the TPD and additional stricter regulations so essentially they are shamelessly advocating cancer sticks without even wanting to admit they are.
 

tr1boon

Full Member
Aug 15, 2018
43
63
Oulu, Finland
I don't think it possible to capture everything important about building coils for experienced people, as there's a facebook group dedicated to coil building that currently has a whopping 16,292 members, for example, but you can try. A lot of what I know I learned from watching build tutorials from people on YouTube so I'll just list a few channels:

GrimmGreen →
The Art of Vaping (Squidoode)
OhmBoy Josh
OhmBoyOC
Pristine Builds (M.Terk)
Coil Mother Fudger
Twisted Messes
n. devine 83

Here in Belgium one of my main gripes is that we aren't allowed to vape in vape shops, which comes from the fact we aren't allowed to vape in any public indoor places. Also, online sales of vaping products aren't allowed so as a result vape shops who used to run a successful web shop have lost an important part of their revenue (in some cases more than half of it) because hardly anyone who used to buy from these Belgian retailers online has switched to visiting their B&M store counterparts (i.e. now they all simply just order their stuff from webs shops in The Netherlands, Germany or France because obviously our govt thinks our own local economy could use more funny obstacles such as this one), which has crippled a lot of top quality Belgian retailers' ability to invest in making new quality products available to customers so that the local wholesalers also are foced to adjust their business strategies accordingly, and so the whole supply chain is bleeding, as are smokers who gave up vaping to go back to smoking cigarettes, yet another direct consequence of the TPD and additional stricter regulations so essentially they are shamelessly advocating cancer sticks without even wanting to admit they are.
Thank you for the links, no doubt they will prove useful in my quest!

Also, I feel you. I always hear stories about Estonian vape shops here. There, not only are you allowed to vape inside, they also sell alcoholic beverages to go with it.

As a side note, I like to follow equestrian sports, and some of my favourite riders come from Belgium :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread