Coil Master V3

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Neolithium

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I'm tempted to get a pair of these. I have the revolver jig right now but the fact the rods are held in by a grub screw causes them to dig into the rod; and after a few uses you find your coils getting caught on the jagged edges it leaves...it gets a bit annoying. I should hunt through some local shops to see if they have them in yet.
 

SteamStack

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Ok, the Coil Master v3 is fun, fast, and easy. But now what do I do, they will probably be on version 10 before I'll need to wrap another coil, and that's if I change out coils before really needing to.

Coils break down over time.. I do a month max on my coils.. prob sooner before I change them out.
 

Spydro

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hmmm that's odd, mine does fine. It doesn't make tensioned coils, but it makes them very even. Only trouble I've had is a couple times I mashed too hard on the top cap, and wire coiled on itself, but that was my fault. But that's why there are so many things available. Use what works for you.

:2c: It's not hard to make a coil wrapped with any metal form tool tensioned after wrapping, including the coil master. Wrap the coil, grab both of the coil tails at the same time with pliers, get a grip on the metal form it was wrapped on and simply pull the tails away from the form (90 degrees) slowly to make them tight around the form. The wire will slip on the metal form IOW. All the individual coils will have the same tension or very close to it. If you pull it with a little extra force it can also help pull the coils tight against each other if you didn't wrap them all making contact with each other perfectly. Kanthal A1 is a lot stronger than you might think.
 

Debadoo

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Wrap the coil, grab both of the coil tails at the same time with pliers, get a grip on the metal form it was wrapped on and simply pull the tails away from the form (90 degrees) slowly to make them tight around the form
Ok, have done that, but just pulled straight down instead of at 90 degree angle. Didn't pull much though, cuz wasn't sure if I should do that or not. Thanks
 
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Spydro

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If the form was held level, straight down would be 90 degrees..... I guess I should have said perpendicular to the form/coil instead. No excuse except that I have have been up for about 3 days with no sleep and was building some coils with eyes that are not what they used to be when it comes to small detail... so a little punchy. :)
 

Debadoo

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If the form was held level, straight down would be 90 degrees..... I guess I should have said perpendicular to the form/coil instead. No excuse except that I have have been up for about 3 days with no sleep and was building some coils with eyes that are not what they used to be when it comes to small detail... so a little punchy. :)
oh duhhhh yeah it would

You threw math at me and I ducked lol

 

plewm

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I'm right with ya bro. I hope the V4 has a slightly wider and thicker screw that goes into the turner. it doesn't really work with very loosly twisted wire in its current iteration but another one I have from another company does cause it has a wider thicker screw.
can i ask which the other jig that you speak of is?

unrelated.... what do people find is the best jig for highly tensioned coils? i just use my hands and a drill bit currently but i'm thinking of either coil master or the gizmo. i've read other threads comparing the two and my main concern is that i won't get as much tension with the coil master. is it possible to go really right with it?
 

super_X_drifter

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can i ask which the other jig that you speak of is?

unrelated.... what do people find is the best jig for highly tensioned coils? i just use my hands and a drill bit currently but i'm thinking of either coil master or the gizmo. i've read other threads comparing the two and my main concern is that i won't get as much tension with the coil master. is it possible to go really right with it?

The other coil master-esque jig is the vapordiyer.com "kuro concepts" coil jig. It's not an authentic kuro, I've never owned a kuro but the screw is wider. Ive got a vid on it because they sent it to me to review it. I know nothing about the company or their CS. I will say that the finish is weak on it and the rod is small and inferior quality to the coil master but that damn bigger screw does what the coil master can't with loose multi strand wire.

I produce coils that function pretty dang good without applying excessive tension using these little jigs and then pulling the coil away from the atty posts with the jig rod in the coil. The thicker the wire the better the jigs seem to work.
 

SteamStack

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The other coil master-esque jig is the vapordiyer.com "kuro concepts" coil jig. It's not an authentic kuro, I've never owned a kuro but the screw is wider. Ive got a vid on it because they sent it to me to review it. I know nothing about the company or their CS. I will say that the finish is weak on it and the rod is small and inferior quality to the coil master but that damn bigger screw does what the coil master can't with loose multi strand wire.

I produce coils that function pretty dang good without applying excessive tension using these little jigs and then pulling the coil away from the atty posts with the jig rod in the coil. The thicker the wire the better the jigs seem to work.


Sounds like we need to find out the thread size on the screw and buy some screws and custom make a larger one.
 

Papa_Lazarou

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Sounds like we need to find out the thread size on the screw and buy some screws and custom make a larger one.

Yes, this ^^^^

I can build with, say, 28 or 30 gauge fine with the CM (V2), but it's nowhere near as easy as with 26g or thicker, nor is it as tensioned.
 

CMD-Ky

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Yes, this ^^^^

I can build with, say, 28 or 30 gauge fine with the CM (V2), but it's nowhere near as easy as with 26g or thicker, nor is it as tensioned.

I have stretched 29 gauge just a little and it seems to help with tension and ease of winding. I fold a length of wire in half them stretch and cut it at the fold; this allows so both pieces of wire to experience the same amount of change.
 
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