coil question

Status
Not open for further replies.

Susan2014

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 7, 2014
134
83
Va
Hello All,
I am not a person who can explain very well what I mean so I am hoping I don't screw this up. :facepalm: I have been building my own single micro coils for several months now. Lately when I take them apart the little rubber part that goes into the middle to keep the wires from touching have what I call a burn mark where the wire I think would sit. Is this bad? I don't have any problems with using these, just that it is something I wanted to see if I am doing something wrong.
I use a provari mini 2.5 with a kanger pro tank 2 with a single coil made with 29 gauge wire 8 wraps and comes out at 1.8 -2.0ohms. My provari is set at 3.8 to 4.2.
Thank you for any help. If someone reads this and does not have a answer could you just say you can't help instead of just leaving a blank question.
Susan
 
Last edited:

State O' Flux

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 17, 2013
4,844
4,993
Seattle
Hello All,
I am not a person who can explain very well what I mean so I am hoping I don't screw this up. :facepalm: I have been building my own single micro coils for several months now. Lately when I take them apart the little rubber part that goes into the middle to keep the wires from touching have what I call a burn mark where the wire I think would sit. Is this bad? I don't have any problems with using these, just that it is something I wanted to see if I am doing something wrong.
I use a provari mini 2.5 with a kanger pro tank 2 with a single coil made with 29 gauge wire 8 wraps and comes out at 1.8 ohms.
Thank you for any help. If someone reads this and does not have a answer could you just say you can't help instead of just leaving a blank question.
Susan
You don't need any electrical short "insulation" if you're using resistive heating wire, like Kanthal A-1.

When heated, Kanthal wire (iron-chromium-aluminum) produces a self-generating, protective oxide layer called aluminum oxide or alumina (Alpha-Al2O3). This insulative layer is both thermally conductive and electrically resistive - it protects the inner, electrically conductive iron-chromium content from corrosive elements... and prevents the individual coils from shorting, one to another.

This is most clearly noticed when you test fire a new, compressed coil... the coil initially appears to short and heat unevenly. Within one or two dry-fires however, the coil will heat more evenly - from the hot center out to the cooler ends.
This is the alumina layer developing and insulating the coils surface. Although the coils are "touching", the electrically conductive component of the coils are (again) insulated by the alumina coating.
 

State O' Flux

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 17, 2013
4,844
4,993
Seattle
I believe OP is talking about the rubber grommet on the bottom of the coil, I think.
I get those on most of my grommets and have never gotten the burned rubber taste associated with
this happening. Not saying it's normal, but I got it all the time on mine.
OP, please correct me if I am wrong...

Doh... I believe you have it. Been so long since I've used a clearo, I've erased them from memory. ;-)

I recall seeing a high temperature silicone rubber (transparent vs. the usual opaque white) grommet, available on some vendor page in a bag of ten, that is, ah... "tasteless"?
 

93gc40

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 5, 2014
3,461
2,663
California
The legs are the bit of wire between the actual and the post/terminal. Normally the legs should not get as hot as the coil.. When one or more of the legs does get hot, it can cause burning at the terminal or in your case the insulator to be melted. In the protank the insulator can also get melted by firing a hot coil for too long.. This is the why of 10 second shut off timers.. It's not to protect YOU, it's to keep things from melting.
 

DaveP

PV Master & Musician
ECF Veteran
May 22, 2010
16,733
42,646
Central GA
I think I know what a hot leg is but could you explain please? Thanks.

If you are using Kanthal to recoil your Protank heads, it's a resistive wire from one end to the other. There are segmented wires available that are like the stock wires. The segmented wires have a resistive Kanthal center section with standard wire on each end. This is either welded or soldered together. The reason for the segmented wires is to keep the legs from getting hot and burning the rubber grommet.

If you use Kanthal to recoil your heads, you run the risk of heating the grommet and slightly burning it because the entire length is resistive and will heat up. What actually happens is that the ends don't actually glow red, but they get hot and will over time show burnt spots on the insulator grommets. Most of the heat is centered in the coil area because the coils don't dissipate heat as well as the free ends. Heat is concentrated in the coils.
 

Susan2014

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 7, 2014
134
83
Va
Thank you for explaining this in simple terms. I thought I knew what hot legs were and now I know I do. So thank you for helping me. I said in the first post that I can explain myself but that was a error in my typing. I am a person who can't explain. I always feel stupid but when people like you explain to me I feel much better. So once again thank you all.
Susan
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread