I am using the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator and I'm using the correct figures for dual coil builds that are presented. The problem is, if I build an 0.5 ohm coil using 7 wraps with kanthal and a 3mm i.d. and all is said and done I end up with an 0.58 ohm build. Am I missing something or not doing something I should? Any help will be appreciated! Bill
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Confused. If you have a 0.5 ohm build you made and it's reading 0.58 ohm not sure the issue. If you mean you built a dual coil out of Kanthal and SE told you it should come in at 0.5 ohm, that's fine. There will always mild differences. Causes are things like the leg length in SE vs. what you actually did. That's not at all way off. If you want to double check, mount the tank on another mod and see what the resistance is there.
I'm assuming that's 0.58 ohm with both coils mounted.
I'm assuming that's 0.58 ohm with both coils mounted.
That's kind of passably close to what you want, honestly. You did a lot better than me with my first coil, but since you require two matching coils, you may need to unwrap it by half a wrap or so (if you can, while still having the legs you want) or you could go ahead and do two dual 0.58 builds, and see how you like those?
Just a thought.
Anna
ETA: I was not assuming like Eskie that you had a resistance of 0.58 on both coils, but if that's the case, again, you may just want to try the vapes if both coils are exactly the same. 0.08 of a resistance change is not that major.
Just a thought.
Anna
ETA: I was not assuming like Eskie that you had a resistance of 0.58 on both coils, but if that's the case, again, you may just want to try the vapes if both coils are exactly the same. 0.08 of a resistance change is not that major.
Wire composition, lead length or fluctuation in ID can account for that very small difference in resistance. That's 8 hundredths of an ohm.
You do not mention the wire gauge for starters so it is difficult for us to know.
We all have the occasional glitch with tools like this. Usually it's a parameter we've missed and assumed we changed. Another common issue — it's close enough. A very common problem even among professionals and engineers. Check and recheck. There's something missing or out of spec in entry, most likely.
Good luck.
Prime them well (easy when it's a TRA), assemble and fill. Then start low, like 14-20W) and increase slowly a few watts at a time until you really like the vape. That's then the wattage you should use as it your personal "sweet spot".
You determine the wattage by starting low, and working your way up to a sweet spot, wherever that is, there is no "target" wattage really, other than what is satisfying to you and your coil/wick.
If you had a resistance in mind for 0.5 coils, just lower it a bit, although honestly, every build and wick is different, I prime my new wicks and coils just like any other coils. There's no magic to it, it's just whatever is most balanced for YOU as far as flavor/clouds, I'd think.
Anna
If you had a resistance in mind for 0.5 coils, just lower it a bit, although honestly, every build and wick is different, I prime my new wicks and coils just like any other coils. There's no magic to it, it's just whatever is most balanced for YOU as far as flavor/clouds, I'd think.
Anna
Anna, thanks for your reply. I'm using a Tesle Hawkeye and the distance from the post to the airflow is kind of far.
MacTechVpr, it is 26 gaugeYou do not mention the wire gauge for starters so it is difficult for us to know.
We all have the occasional glitch with tools like this. Usually it's a parameter we've missed and assumed we changed. Another common issue — it's close enough. A very common problem even among professionals and engineers. Check and recheck. There's something missing or out of spec in entry, most likely.
Good luck.
Are you building a spaced or closed (contact) coil? If the 1st, what's the spacing?
Good luck.
p.s. @Bill M. another factor which can make a big diff — are you making a half (return) or full (forward) wrap coil? See Coil Toy for graphical examples (not as precise a tool).
p.s. @Bill M. assuming you've made a half-wrap 3xguage spacing you should be getting…26x2 7/6 3.0mmØ = 0.538Ω. An enjoyable cool low midrange vape at 4.2V. Adjust your target resistance setting so that number of wraps equals the exact count, i.e. 7.5 in this instance (the whole number when it's a full-wrap). Adjust the mW/mm² to equal 4.2V to find the wattage and thermal output across the wick on a fully charged battery (if used on a mech).
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So Bill, tell us, are you lookin' good with your build after all? Shoot as a pic…the internet is a graphical medium.
Good luck.
Good luck.
When dealing with resistances measured in the one-hundredths of an ohm, any number of very, very slight changes from benchmark (leg length, set screw contact, sharp angles in wire bends; ad infinitum) can result in what seem to be significant variation. I’d say if your getting within a tenth of an ohm from the Steam Engine prediction, you’re in the ballpark. Method tweaks will get you closer yet.
Yes, plus one of the most common overlooked deviations…lead length. Can't trust those lying eyes. lol. And be careful what S-E has labelled the input box for the config. Is it for each coil, or pairs?
A 10th diff once you drop <.5Ω sure starts to have meaningful consequences. This is where predictable reliable method pays off. Especially towards diagnosing such variations. Saves a lot of time and gets us to the vape faster.
Good luck all and Happy New Year.
Didn't see it mentioned in earlier posts, so I'll add this - atomizers have resistance as well. So even if you build a coil and measure it at .5 with your multimeter, it may read more once you install it. The atty, the 510 connection, the mod and even the batteries all have their own resistance values. The exact value doesn't matter, as long as it's safe and satisfying.
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