Could I get the "tech" explanation of that one? Its the geek in me that wants to know...
Contact Micro Coils Vs Spaced Coils
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OK Mac... this is specifically for you (and all the other t.m.c. junkies out there):
So, I ordered a pin vise.
A bit of a learning curve as to using it, but I have to say that even with 26 awg I have never been able to make "leg bends" to center the coil WITHOUT ON A MANDREL and not deform the coil.
I normally build with 22-20awg nichrome 80 so its not a huge issue of deformation anyway, but when you are hand-wrapping 20awg ni80 you learn a few things (mainly that nerve damage in your hands sucks lol). Anyway, I would be remiss to call my coils "full contact" if we were to get technical; but, short of a jig to control drag like the large table models in the microcoil thread... I'm not sure its even possible. My coils are as snug and tensioned as I can make them and require pulsing and gentle "raking" before they fire cleanly, most likely due to initial oxidization. However, once oxidized, only a gentle tease with tweezers is needed to adjust for uneven firing (and even that is minimal).
In short, if you have not tried wrapping your coils under tension, try it. Just for the repeatability of the build it is worth it.
Thanks again for the innovation, Mac.
Vape strong, friends.
So, I ordered a pin vise.
A bit of a learning curve as to using it, but I have to say that even with 26 awg I have never been able to make "leg bends" to center the coil WITHOUT ON A MANDREL and not deform the coil.
I normally build with 22-20awg nichrome 80 so its not a huge issue of deformation anyway, but when you are hand-wrapping 20awg ni80 you learn a few things (mainly that nerve damage in your hands sucks lol). Anyway, I would be remiss to call my coils "full contact" if we were to get technical; but, short of a jig to control drag like the large table models in the microcoil thread... I'm not sure its even possible. My coils are as snug and tensioned as I can make them and require pulsing and gentle "raking" before they fire cleanly, most likely due to initial oxidization. However, once oxidized, only a gentle tease with tweezers is needed to adjust for uneven firing (and even that is minimal).
In short, if you have not tried wrapping your coils under tension, try it. Just for the repeatability of the build it is worth it.
Thanks again for the innovation, Mac.
Vape strong, friends.
A pin vise is a great tool for tensioning. I have discovered it after got fed up with the sizes of precision screwdrivers
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12022529
Mac was an innovator with the tensioning, yes he was.
I think, in the end, it's going to depend more on user preference.
I've tried alot of different coil setups, and keep going back to 28AWG 4/5 spaced wrap on a 2.5mm allen key, with a cotton wick. On a GG Tilemahos/Esterigon combo.
I'm no cloud chaser and I look for best flavor with the juices I use, and this seems to work the best for me... so far
I've tried alot of different coil setups, and keep going back to 28AWG 4/5 spaced wrap on a 2.5mm allen key, with a cotton wick. On a GG Tilemahos/Esterigon combo.
I'm no cloud chaser and I look for best flavor with the juices I use, and this seems to work the best for me... so far
Hmm ampacity. Love that NEC. I knew my answer from the get go and was rambling. There was talk about the coil shorting for a fraction of a second and electrons melding in the middle is why I responded. I think the gist of it was that contact coils initially short in the middle and cause a better heat up or something like that. I thought that was bs.
Anyways the coil doesn't short at all contact or non-contact. The first dry fire takes care of this as it builds up an oxidation layer hindering the conductivity of the touching wraps. Unless they are mechanically bonded like intense pressure squeezing the coils together, screwing them into a terminal post, or twisting them together using a drill. If the wraps of a kanthal coil were indeed shorted then the only resistance that would be seen is the resistance that is present across the wraps of the wire with the highest resistance being the legs of the coil that would glow as they are the weak link that has to handle all that I^2R. Now NI200 coils do indeed short per se and this is why these tight wrapped coils don't jive on the newer DNA40s.
Please don't spare the jargon as I am more than qualified to handle it and for the folks that don't they will either "google it", open a book, ask questions, or be left in the dark.
Honestly I lost interest in this thread and the debate overall as I got lost in the useless rhetoric. Calling one method the most or more efficient than another is rather useless without including all of the variables. Tight coils cause too much heat in the center of the coil causing it to become unstable or controllable unless I PWM my firing finger or suck air like a breathalyzer. I am using low watts too around the 7-10W range. Unflavored nic/pg/vg sure, ok, it does do good. Add a palette of flavors and those coils crap the bed faster than anything that I have built. Once the crust builds up it is done for and time to dryburn/rewick. Then again I am sure the retort is that I am doing it wrong....
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So, what if you tension wrap a pre=tensioned wire? As in, putting the wire in a drill, twist tension until it snaps, and then tension wrap? From Macs posts and pictures, my coils look the same with just hand tension wrapping 24-26 gauge. Most think I do these on a machine, when in reality I wrap them at warp speed on a micro driver. I was also the kid that took apart all of his toys.
I have spent the last 45 minutes reading and interpreting this entire thread, and now I feel overwhelmed and a bit upset. The question was never really answered to a satisfying state. Now I have to get my lazy a** off the couch and start wrapping spaced coils both freehand and machine screw. I DIY my own juices, and they are usually very sweet and high VG. I am getting sick of my rayon being totally saturated at both ends, yet still causing the center of my coil to glow and scorch after just a few seconds on say a 0.3 build of 24 gauge. No it is not to tight and being choked, and no it is not to loose as to not make wick to coil contact at any point.
I find it funny how supposedly the Atlantis uses a giant spaced 24 gauge coil, wicks through a secondary portion, and yet keeps up with high vg juices. I do not own an Atlantis, nor will I ever, but I have seen many videos and have a few buds that use the tank. They chain vape high vg juices, and never get a dry hit. Even running the 0.5 ohm spaced coil at say 35-40 watts. And here is the kicker, the coils are lasting weeks......WEEKS without noticeable flavor drop off or performance issues aka resistance rising.
Now on the other hand, my Orchid v4 has a 0.2 ohm build in it with 26 gauge, wicked with rayon cellucotton. I have been vaping my 85% VG sugary sweet diy juices in it on my mech, and every few refills I will yank the chimney to inspect the wicks and coils. It has been a day short of 3 weeks, and I swear to the heavens that they look like they did the day I built them. I find it astonishing. Never a dry hit. I am scared to ever pull the build, be it just the rayon or the coils as the thing just amazes me.
Ugh, off to try some spaced coils. And just for the record, DO NOT purchase the Billow rta. Leaks like a sob through the bottom afc grubs.
Cheers.
I have spent the last 45 minutes reading and interpreting this entire thread, and now I feel overwhelmed and a bit upset. The question was never really answered to a satisfying state. Now I have to get my lazy a** off the couch and start wrapping spaced coils both freehand and machine screw. I DIY my own juices, and they are usually very sweet and high VG. I am getting sick of my rayon being totally saturated at both ends, yet still causing the center of my coil to glow and scorch after just a few seconds on say a 0.3 build of 24 gauge. No it is not to tight and being choked, and no it is not to loose as to not make wick to coil contact at any point.
I find it funny how supposedly the Atlantis uses a giant spaced 24 gauge coil, wicks through a secondary portion, and yet keeps up with high vg juices. I do not own an Atlantis, nor will I ever, but I have seen many videos and have a few buds that use the tank. They chain vape high vg juices, and never get a dry hit. Even running the 0.5 ohm spaced coil at say 35-40 watts. And here is the kicker, the coils are lasting weeks......WEEKS without noticeable flavor drop off or performance issues aka resistance rising.
Now on the other hand, my Orchid v4 has a 0.2 ohm build in it with 26 gauge, wicked with rayon cellucotton. I have been vaping my 85% VG sugary sweet diy juices in it on my mech, and every few refills I will yank the chimney to inspect the wicks and coils. It has been a day short of 3 weeks, and I swear to the heavens that they look like they did the day I built them. I find it astonishing. Never a dry hit. I am scared to ever pull the build, be it just the rayon or the coils as the thing just amazes me.
Ugh, off to try some spaced coils. And just for the record, DO NOT purchase the Billow rta. Leaks like a sob through the bottom afc grubs.
Cheers.
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