* Contest * FREE " BUZZ" $115 value ! !
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You could BUT it is NOT recommended ! this is a current limited device The whole idea behind it is to be able to adjust to the atomizer ( normal atty ) , A LR atty wants gobs of current not voltage. I have tested it with LR attys and they work but it runs on the edge.
Kinda defeats the purpose in a way .
16340 , RCR123A 3.7volts , we will have RCR123A's
No, I missed it also, thought for sure it would be out by now. Hope it's not much longer, I've been looking at a Greencig pipe G500 I want also, runs at 180 though, would rather have a Buzzkill.
Doh... my time pick has come and gone... no soup for me!
Thnx for the responses. I'm still trying to get a handle on my efficiency question?
Suppose each batt is a perfect 3.7v source (just for discussion sake).
Suppose we have the set point dialed in to 3.7v.
Suppose the atty is a 3.7ohm load.
Now, we push the button, and the regulator circuit puts a perfect 3.7v across the 3.7ohm atty... 1 amp flows making for 3.7watts of heating power in the atty.
What I'm wondering is how many watts of power are lost in the regulating circuitry in this sample? I guess it would be another 3.7watts (since P = IV across the regulator too). Is that right? So the draw on the battery is always the same when you push the button regardless of where the set point is, the set point just determines how much power is delivered to the atty vs how much is lost in the circuitry.
Is that right or does MOSFET magic produce a voltage drop more efficiently?
But if P=IV across the regulator is right... using two batts with a low set point (3.7v) is a wasteful idea. The regulated 2 batt stack would last about as long as a single batt MOD in this 3.7v desired output example.
4) The site says you get 6v out of a fully charged 2 x 3.7v stack. Where'd the extra 1.4v go? Does the battery stack need to provide 1.4v headroom over the desired output in order to achieve that desired output?
It is dropped across the regulator , with 7.4volts when you set it to 3.6v the regulator handles the rest of the voltage.
5) How efficient is the voltage regulator? So how much battery power is consumed by the regulator vs being fed into the atty? And how does the variable adjustment affect that ratio?
The efficiency changes with the set point voltage, the higher the set voltage the more efficient the device is . ( less voltage across the regulator)
This is just like the draw on the batteries on a HV device it;s just that WE CONTROL the output unlike other HV devices.
Please feel free to ask away !
Thnx for the responses. I'm still trying to get a handle on my efficiency question?
Suppose each batt is a perfect 3.7v source (just for discussion sake).
Suppose we have the set point dialed in to 3.7v.
Suppose the atty is a 3.7ohm load.
Now, we push the button, and the regulator circuit puts a perfect 3.7v across the 3.7ohm atty... 1 amp flows making for 3.7watts of heating power in the atty.
What I'm wondering is how many watts of power are lost in the regulating circuitry in this sample? I guess it would be another 3.7watts (since P = IV across the regulator too). Is that right? So the draw on the battery is always the same when you push the button regardless of where the set point is, the set point just determines how much power is delivered to the atty vs how much is lost in the circuitry.
Is that right or does MOSFET magic produce a voltage drop more efficiently?
But if P=IV across the regulator is right... using two batts with a low set point (3.7v) is a wasteful idea. The regulated 2 batt stack would last about as long as a single batt MOD in this 3.7v desired output example.
You got me cause I don't vape at 3.7 volts. I don't know anyway but I can tell you this thing runs all day into the next and I love being able to get the primo spot for each carto or juice I'm using. That would be Marlboro in a kr808D-1 right now. I've had this past 6 volts but it's to hot for the cartos for me. I don't even vape at 6 volts.
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I'm debating whether or not to go the HV route or to go the bigger 3.7v batt route. I've got a couple of single batt 16340 mods that work well for a while, but they start to fall off faster than I would like.
With the increasing availability of L(ower)R attys, I don't think i "need" to go up in voltage to get a vaping experience that I like. This 2.5ohm 510 atty on a freshly charged IMR16340 is pretty rockin right now. But I do think i "need" to go up in battery capacity to get the runtime that I like. A few hours from now, this setup will still be working, but it won't be as rockin anymore.
I guess I'm looking for longer runtime more than increased voltage which is why I'm curious about the efficiency of the regulator. With the Buzz, I have in mind to dial in 4.1v or so and hope that it would last a long long time like that given 2 x 16340s. But if a lot of power is lost in the regulator with low set points... probably not a good idea.
It may be that a single batt 18650 MOD is more up my alley? This would keep me away from stacking batteries too. I may get the extension sleeve for the Chameleon to see what I think about smaller vs longer runtime tradeoff in practice. The extended lizard will take a 14670 batt which should give considerably longer runtime than a 16340 which is what it takes in short form.
But if the voltage regulator is really efficient so not a lot of power is lost to drop the voltage... well then things are different and the Buzz looks more enticing. I also like the idea of protection circuitry built into the device itself. My MODs don't have any form of short-circuit protection, not counting taking my finger off the switch, or that the switch itself would fry out (maybe).
The other thing is that I like to use the std batts too, and being able to use the same attys on MODs and std batts is a feature. If I go the HV route, that interoperability goes out the window.
Cheers
With the increasing availability of L(ower)R attys, I don't think i "need" to go up in voltage to get a vaping experience that I like. This 2.5ohm 510 atty on a freshly charged IMR16340 is pretty rockin right now. But I do think i "need" to go up in battery capacity to get the runtime that I like. A few hours from now, this setup will still be working, but it won't be as rockin anymore.
I guess I'm looking for longer runtime more than increased voltage which is why I'm curious about the efficiency of the regulator. With the Buzz, I have in mind to dial in 4.1v or so and hope that it would last a long long time like that given 2 x 16340s. But if a lot of power is lost in the regulator with low set points... probably not a good idea.
It may be that a single batt 18650 MOD is more up my alley? This would keep me away from stacking batteries too. I may get the extension sleeve for the Chameleon to see what I think about smaller vs longer runtime tradeoff in practice. The extended lizard will take a 14670 batt which should give considerably longer runtime than a 16340 which is what it takes in short form.
But if the voltage regulator is really efficient so not a lot of power is lost to drop the voltage... well then things are different and the Buzz looks more enticing. I also like the idea of protection circuitry built into the device itself. My MODs don't have any form of short-circuit protection, not counting taking my finger off the switch, or that the switch itself would fry out (maybe).
The other thing is that I like to use the std batts too, and being able to use the same attys on MODs and std batts is a feature. If I go the HV route, that interoperability goes out the window.
Cheers
What is the range of resistance you recommend using? What would be too low? I have a wide range of attys and cartos going from 1.8 to 3.4 in resistance.
TYIA
Vapormadness in you example that would be correct 3.7 watts this is the WORST case of power loss ! , as the voltage goes UP the losses go DOWN ( less drop across the regulator ) .
I get good run time on my batteries I have 880mah and 550 mah AW high drain ) of coarse the 550mah run lees time . The total time will depend on your vaping habits.
We have found that 4.5 - 4.75 volts is the SWEET spot for most atomizers ( 2.5-3.5 ohm range ) in the Beta testing that was done.
It has lots of protection built in , Reverse battery , Over current ( short circuit ) over temp etc. they are all listed on the site.
Any other Questions ?
I get good run time on my batteries I have 880mah and 550 mah AW high drain ) of coarse the 550mah run lees time . The total time will depend on your vaping habits.
We have found that 4.5 - 4.75 volts is the SWEET spot for most atomizers ( 2.5-3.5 ohm range ) in the Beta testing that was done.
It has lots of protection built in , Reverse battery , Over current ( short circuit ) over temp etc. they are all listed on the site.
Any other Questions ?
From the testing we have done 2.0 ohms and above is best , It WILL run a 1.5 ohm LR atty !! I have burnt up several because I forgot to turn it DOWN LOL ! , but the ones I did not kill because of user error worked fine , it just pushes the limits of the current delivery.
This the beauty of this type of device you can TUNE it to the atomizer !!
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Thanx for helping me get a handle on how much loss there is depending on the set point. Yes, I understand that lossiness goes down as Vout goes up. My example was purposefully at an extreme just for the sake of discussion.
Based on your answers, I guess this is a linear voltage regulator with something along the lines of an LM317 at its heart... and at the end of the day the device does have to dissipate (Vin - Vout) * Iout.
Just out of curiosity, is a switching voltage regulator at all possible given the small size constraints that eCigs have? From what Scottbee has posted about the pulsing nature of the std 510 batts output, it sounds like it might be employing a switching regulator?
Based on your answers, I guess this is a linear voltage regulator with something along the lines of an LM317 at its heart... and at the end of the day the device does have to dissipate (Vin - Vout) * Iout.
Just out of curiosity, is a switching voltage regulator at all possible given the small size constraints that eCigs have? From what Scottbee has posted about the pulsing nature of the std 510 batts output, it sounds like it might be employing a switching regulator?
OK so heres the first production unit !
Nice looking!! What color are the end caps and is that a 510 atty on an adapter in the picture? Most importantly... How soon until they're ready to purchase?
The end caps are brass , Yes it is a 510 atty on an adaptor .
Very SOON !! we are working over the weekend to get them reaDY !
Oppps CaPSloCK
Thanks!! Looking forward to getting one. Now I just have to figure out what color. Was thinking silver, but not sure how the brass end caps will look. I'll have my mind made up by the time you get them ready though 
I will get some pictures of each color with the end caps on them so you can see the results , it wont be until Monday !
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I will get some pictures of each color with the end caps on them so you can see the results , it wont be until Monday !
Looks nice, I like the combo of the slight recess with a very low profile button. Is the brass nub on the right side the voltage knob?
Also the nautilus in your counter top is magnificent!
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